Spinnaker Brace, block positions Options

[Guest Anarchist CC_*]

Hi All

Dont see anything wrong with the new forum and PHP on an RDBMS is a good way to go.

Have a question for probably the bigger boat people regarding spinnaker braces.

Currently we run single sheets, lazy sheet becomes the brace and we end for end the pole.
The boat is only 30ft but gybing the kite in big breezes becomes a handfull 1000+sq feet for all but the most experienced ppl on board.....and they are not always on board.

I am thinking of adding separate braces for the big days. I have bought all the bits fired up the drill, we no toe rail as such so I have to install a couple of paddeys on the rail. Anyway, there are a couple of places that wont cause fowling with life lines and a couple of places that seem to be more like the right places for them.

My Question. Is there any magic formula for the block placement?.... thought I would ask before drilling more holes in the boat.

Thanks
CC

[Grinder]

By 'brace' , I assume you mean 'guy'?

[Guest Anarchist CnC_*]

Yep

[Phil]

Our boat is 10m[34'] and we only have single setup,anything over that you would think about a double set up,anything under and its weight and all the extra srtings is gen more trouble.

[DTH]

I used to race a C&C 34. We ran the extra sheets to the toe rail about 3 feet from the bow. When we jibed we would tighten the new weather side bow sheet and fly the chute on that until the pole was attached to the guy. Worked like a charm - and good on jibe sets too - the chute didn't really need a pole to fly.

[Guest Anarchist CnC_*]

DTH, that has merit, could act as nice convenient peeling strops as well

[Guest Anarchist CnC_*]

Thanks for the feed back,

No balsa core or foam deck so no issues here, for the record I also agree with Phil, cept I am a bit desparate. We also do a fair bit of two handed racing so it may work here in heavier conditions as well, we'll see.

Any way nothing will be lost if it does not work, a couple of extra padeyes on the deck.

Cheers

CC

[Wreck™]

A number of 30-35 footers use lazy sheets & guys, Mumm 30's for one.

One other advantage of lazy's is the ability to lead a guy or sheet into a hatch before you douse, lessening the general mayhem.

[Guest Anarchist CnC_*]

We tend to drop as late as possible and when we do Leeward drops we use the the old post box technique. Getting a single sheet between the main and the boom so retrievals can be orchestrated on the highside while reaching in to a mark can be interestingat times. Getting the lazy brace there will be a breeze.

[eerie sailor]

Switching back and forth between single sheet and guy and double sheet and guy will probably add confusion on your boat to your less experienced. At 30', most crews are going to stick with the single sheets and guys. Maybe you should take your least experienced out for a day of practice and practice gybing and sailing without the pole!! By doing this, it will force the crew to get the chute out in front of the boat and rotate it around. Once they do this for awhile, the whole gybing thing will make since. Do you have Twing lines? What type of boat are you sailing?

[moxie]

It seems as though they know how to jibe, but heavy weather is presenting some problems. In addition, they sometimes sail the boat shorthanded. I would rig for double lines and stick with it. Your spin size is close to a Mumm 30, which uses double lines and needs it. It will add a lot more control and safety when it's blowing. It also adds a lot of options for jibe sets and different douses.

[Jono]

Instead of Sheet and Guy, think about running your downhaul/foreguy in dual to each snapshackle. Have the block about 18 in -2 feet from the bow.
NZ invention thought up by Murray Ross. That way if its really blowing, get square, take up the load on the leeward downhaul. ease the sheet to be loose, and you can muscle the pole far easier.
I had it on my 26 footer - we were running Mumm 36 chutes as the biggie, down to about 45sqm as the small. Lots of d/hs and lots of Coastal. Works up to about 40 feet, Elliots and Ross boats have done it for years.
Sheets and guy/brace are a pain on a boat this size - and no I don't understand why the Mumm 30s do it.

[Guest Anarchist Bubba_*]

As mentioned earlier, you might find twingers ann easier and less confusing addition to the boat. Twing lines allow you to pull the sheets in during a gybe for a bit better control as wel as help when sailing deep angles on the run. On my 34 foot boat we found that gybing in heavy air was a real circus and one of the things boats would come out to race for. Everyone wanted to see what new and exciting way we could crash when the wind was up. To their great disapointment we were able to elinimate most of the wild crashes with the addition of twing lines. We use the lines in light air and heavy and the gybe process is really always the sme.

[Guest Anarchist CnC_*]

Moxie is close to the mark, they can gybe the kite and we very rearly crash out. We actully go out one evening a week during Summer, and just practice, just gotta love daylight saving...should have it during the Winter. We run tweekers(twingers), and use them them during a gybe so that the bow can reach the new brace(guy) or for running deep, pretty rare for us though. The issue is in bigger breezes and a lot of it is about improving the efficency of the gybe in those conditions. Time spent running deep while somebody is fighting with pole, cost time and its harder to keep the the thing trimmed properly while the brace needs to be eased out so that the pole can be made to the mast and trimmed on to keep it flying propperly. Yep I know it can be done, but no matter how much you practice things go wrong and the harder it blows the wronger it goes.