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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About RedRyder

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  • Birthday 10/29/1976

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    Ummm,... sailing.

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  1. Daysailing anarchy: Simple, fast, fun overnighter

    Sounds a bit like the design brief for Bob's Grand Slam. http://www.boatersresources.com/boat-for-sale/2007-Robert-Perry-Custom-36-ft-Used-457854?sr=0&sb=4&q1=perry&q2=&q3=&q4=&q5=&q6=&q7=&q8=&q9=q9[q9]=All&q10=&q11=&q12=&q13=&q14=&q15=&q16=&q17=&q18=&q19=&q20=&q21=&q22=&q23=&q24=&q25=&q26=
  2. C&C 36...will it float?

    The PO of Gemini made some changes before we bought her. 40 gal fresh water, and 80+ (!!!) holding tank. Really? Why do I need that much holding tank? Way too much work right now to even contemplate a change, however. I'd much rather have the ratio reversed.
  3. New Hinckley 53

    Speaking of chickens... if only I had the scratch right now...
  4. Craigslist - Not mocking

    In my totally uneducated opinion, $25k for a Concordia yawl is probably going to be super expensive, but $200k might be a good deal.
  5. Craigslist - Not mocking

    The price may be mockable, but the vessel is not in my opinion: https://newlondon.craigslist.org/bod/d/ft-herreshoff-custom-torpedo/6545159670.html For the right price, I could see this in Nick's fleet...
  6. C&C 36...will it float?

    Interesting note: between Kent_Island_Sailor, Ishmael, and me, you have all 3 generations of C&C 35 represented here
  7. E-nav on the cheap

    Did she say the same?
  8. E-nav on the cheap

    Finally found it. Here is what looks to be a reasonable option for a power supply: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Voltage-Stabilizer-8-40V-to-12V-6A-72W-Car-Power-Supply-Regulator-Waterproof/311627034464?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  9. C&C 36...will it float?

    If I remember correctly, the 36's were all cored boats, so check around for wet core and delamination. The Barient winches are awesome. Take care of them, and they'll outlive you. And probably your kids. On my C&C 35, after much consternation about changing their classic look, I bought a pair of Winchmates to convert my primaries to self-tailing. Worth every penny from a shorthanded perspective (and sailing with my family is singlehanding,) and less than half of what a pair of real Barient self-tailing winches were going for from the local rigger:
  10. New Hinckley 53

    I'm sorry, but no. Her ass is a disaster.
  11. S/V Gemini

    Good point about the amperage - I don't have any huge inverter loads, but I'd appreciate your thoughts. I suppose I could divide the loads so that there is a pathway to large loads (maybe a separate panel) that doesn't go through the LVD Or maybe for now just consider an alternative device like the Blue Sea ATD: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7615/ATD_Automatic_Timer_Disconnect Looks like I should also move the LVD from its current location to placing it between the switch and the breaker panel?
  12. S/V Gemini

    Good thoughts, Ajax and IB! More details: Gemini lives most of her life in a marina connected to shore power. The alternator is currently the stock Westerbeke 55a model with her 30b Three engine - alternator upgrade to larger with external regulation is currently in the "backlog" The battery switch shown (already in the boat) is a Blue Sea 5511e e-Series Dual Circuit Plus which I think is what IB is referring to: I added the low-voltage disconnect just as an extra layer of protection after a near-bank-death experience with my previous house bank: the refrigerator was on while she sat at the dock; someone bumped into the power cord at the pedestal and unplugged it, draining that poor battery quite low. Then later in the season, the stuck bilge pump switch fully killed it. I can be talked out of it if it's a bad idea... also open to placing it in different places in the overall circuit, but this made sense (and doesn't require me to do wire gymnastics to try to hook the LVD up to 2/0 cable) IB is correct, the ACR allows either charging source - alternator or battery charger - to charge both banks. At current battery prices, I can buy a bank of 4 GC2's for about $118 each (plus core charges, but I have plenty of old batteries to return) so however cool, the firefly batteries are probably out of reach for me.
  13. S/V Gemini

    *Spring 2018 thread resurrection* Hi, all! So, it's definitely time to resurrect this thread as I'm getting ready for my 2018 electrical project. Last year, a bad bilge pump switch finally, totally, and permanently killed my house bank. Really, house battery - the whole deal was a single 105ah group 27. It's so dead now that it will take no charge at all; I had to race the last race of the season while running the engine in neutral just to keep the depth sounder working since we were racing in the river (I'm sure that having the MaxProp unfeathered and spinning in neutral didn't help!) This spring, it's definitely time for my planned electrical makeover for Gemini. I'd like to get some thoughts and feedback from the assembled masses here on CA; free advice is always worth at least what I'm paying for it. First, Gemini is currently wired for a 2-battery setup - one starting battery and one house. Here is a diagram of some locations we'll talk about: Currently, we have the start battery and house battery both mounted in the locker beneath the berth in location #4. There is not sufficient room to add additional batteries in this locker. The battery charger (Sterling 60a 12v), battery switch, and ACR are all mounted in location #3. Location #1 is a locker beneath the seat where I can build an appropriate platform to secure 4 GC2 batteries - I believe I'll have sufficient height to also install a watering system to make them easier to maintain. Roughly, this is a proposed wiring diagram that was suggested by a "marine electrician" (guy at the boat yard who does their electrical work...) With this setup, I would have the 4 GC2 batteries in location #1, fed through a 400a Class T fuse at that location. They would feed through 2/0 cable back to the bussed ANL fuses (about a 6-foot run, so 12 feet round trip) in location #3. I'd keep the start battery exactly where it is, and add a low-voltage disconnect which could disconnect the house bank to avoid over-discharging. Wiring is currently 4awg amongst the alternator, starter, battery switch, ACR, etc and I didn't plan to change it this year. Comments and thoughts? Thanks!