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13 Whiner

About Dogfish4255

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  • Birthday 01/22/1981

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  • Location
    Newport, RI
  • Interests
    Mostly sailboat racing, but woodworking, drinking, and sailboat racing are all up there.

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  1. Dogfish4255

    Dip pole gybe - keep lazy sheet on top pole

    If the OP's issue is a pattern, it's a cockpit problem, not a bow problem. If the sail is flying correctly and is rotated correctly through the gybe, as others have pointed out, the sheets are loaded, and will remain higher than the guy until the pole is brought back on the new guy. Double tapping is great for first set. I have yet to see or care when sheet/guy are rigged separately or in tandem, but tandem is always sheet clipped to guy, and separate only seems advantageous to teams who have their shit together in relatively light conditions when you'd want the option to drop the typically substantially heavier guy. Party in the front is typically caused by too much party in the back. When the decisions, driver, main, and headsail trimming is firing correctly, the difficulties up front are significantly reduced. Rodeo is a bandaid/workaround for trimming errors, which may or may not be related to driving or decisions.
  2. Dogfish4255

    Tripp 47 In Seattle- Good Deal?

    I bet sailing that is like roulette; everyone on the rail gets a turn down below tacking Satan's finger. You can't afford this boat unless you can also afford the permanent professional escort vessel necessary to pluck all of the survivors from the water.
  3. Dogfish4255


    You ought not ease the sheet that way . . . Mmmm. I don't reckon the mast got no reason to stay pointed upright, once the spinnaker gone that way . . . Mmmm. Tough to know if this was precipitated by the trimmer or the driver, but the trimmer DEFINITELY made it way worse.
  4. Dogfish4255

    Can you make a "PHRF cheater"?

    As most have pointed out there's a couple effective ways to skin the PHRF game; - an iron-clad rating "commoner" like the J30, fully prepped and sprinkled with the best sails and crew one can afford, and competently delivered to start on time and hitting the appropriate shifts. The J29 that won everything at the club all the time where I grew up wasn't a wizard, but he did have nice sails, and he showed up on the starting line on time and made very few mistakes. - an obscure and potentially difficult to sail design that likely was never rated to deal with a better than average level of competence and attention to detail, which offers a seemingly gift rating. Suggestions for the jaded or upset; - start on time and at speed - stay in phase - don't over stand - hit your numbers (if you don't know what your numbers are, revisit mast tuning and sail selection for your boat) Most PHRF boats don't need a fresh suit every season, but a fresh sail every second or third season does wonders. Plenty of questionable decisions were made on the race course around us today while a beating was issued by a stock Melges 24 and a cruising boat . . .
  5. Dogfish4255

    J/33 or J/105?

    Nah, let the haters hate . . . time on the water and specific efforts will make it worth your time. Things like knowing when to run sheets and guys or just sheets on the kites, minimum competencies for your foredeck, trimmer(s), and pit, and what money to spend are going to make all the difference in your enjoyment of the boat. If you don't already have one, add a carbon spinnaker pole. Or two. And enjoy, congrats on the boat!
  6. Dogfish4255

    J/33 or J/105?

    Depends on your friends and what you expect of racing. The J33 is more versatile as a true handicap race boat in most typical weeknight racing conditions, where in mixed fleet sailing a well trimmed symmetrical boat can outdo the relatively underpowered J105 (class configuration). Undoubtedly the J105 is going to be easier to sail shorthanded, or with kids, and definitely a broader availability of used class sails if that's your budget mode. Have capable race-y friends who are willing to put in the time to race hard? J33 Family fun without all the "that's hard" stuff? J105
  7. Dogfish4255

    J/24 - Tillotson-Pearson vs Performance Sailcraft

    There could be at least a book, maybe two, written on the topic. What sort of specifics are you looking for? Are your interests racing, cruising, or just collecting a choice example at the bargain price in the current economic climate? There are differences both minor, and some that could be considered by some to be major, but as any major championship results list can attest to, the 4-6 teammates aboard seem to be just as or more important than finding some supposed unicorn J24.
  8. Dogfish4255

    COG vs Magnetic heading

    If your typical fail on the race course is straight line moding and identifying key shifts, I'd recommend magnetic. As pointed, it's more accurate (refresh rate), especially in down-speed boats. If the only thing that's missing from your game is key positioning and leverage off the starting line, and you don't rely on compass heading feedback to keep the boat in the correct mode or speed, then COG GPS might be sufficient. At the level the Star guys are sailing at, a boat length at the line might be the difference of 1st or 20th at the weather mark. As most have eluded to, "both" is ideal, but you've got to have all the other pieces of the puzzle before having that much data distraction makes sense, especially on small boats.
  9. Dogfish4255

    Why we have no ventilators

    ROI accounting doesn't reconcile well to fringe "if" scenarios, long term "when" situations, and doom drum players touting worst case scenarios. Accountants, Administration, and other players in big healthcare/medicine, and even small hospitals, play the same games other institutions play in the last couple of decades; balance the need to pay the top talent and "officers" as much as possible or necessary to maintain the attractiveness/performance of an institution, while trimming cost where perceived "need" is low. Is anyone else surprised they do this with a short term out look, or with a glass half full perspective? There isn't a lot of the industry that hasn't caved to a more "for profit" slant, especially those owned by public shareholders. ROI, really? From a hospital? Anyone notice whether or not there are maintenance, parts, or inventories of Iron Lungs laying around anymore? I'm not advocating that hospitals should have stockpiled antiquated negative pressure ventilator technology from the '50s, but I am suggesting that the current apparatus of "the market will fix it" based on a market that only advances technology, practice, or preparation when it smells opportunity for a profit isn't something you should bet your life on. The NYTimes article the thread starts with is a great example of how the industry plays; Newport's buyer says "F- that, there's more profit to be had."
  10. Dogfish4255

    Calypso Ultrasonic Anemometer

    I'm all for the upstarts, but I agree with the others; NMEA 0183 for a new product is just preying on sketchy old mismatch systems. In a moment of weakness, I installed a fresh N2k backbone with an autopilot upgrade, and at the same time added the Airmar 220Wx to a powerboat. If you're going to go after weather, including true and apparent wind, reputable instrument makers are sometimes worth the extra coin. Depends on your needs, but if you want no moving parts, this was reliable and once we had done a bit of calibration both True and Apparent wind are pretty close for a thing with no moving parts. Just an opinion. I dislike things that cost money that don't last long.
  11. Dogfish4255

    Best mainsheet ratchet min 50mm

    Agree with most that the "holy" Fredrickson 60 was impressive in holding power and nice to your lines. I'm currently rolling around in my laser with one of the gold colored 1.5X harken HTE auto ratchets. The holding power is great, but be warned the downside of the 1.5 and 2.0X blocks is going to be the expense of replacing your sheets more often, especially if you're using something with polypro or straight poly in the cover. These blocks really require a sheet with some technora or other high abrasion resistance in the cover if it's a sheet that will get played actively. It's been years, but I was never successful with the Ronstan 55mm options from a durability factor. They held fine while they worked, but never lasted more than a season or two.
  12. Dogfish4255

    How to make J/24 Keel Templates

    First, download and read a copy of the class rules. Don't get rule interpretations off of this forum. Then, follow the link to the West Systems manual. Start at page 88, read until end. Any composite concepts you're not familiar with, start from page 1. Note that this is information . . . which is not a substitute for experience and skill. A J24 is an asymmetric egg; this process is difficult on a boat that is well built, much less a boat like the 24. And you don't want the class minimums for a keel shape (I promise, just don't), which means you'll want to pull a shape off another J24 you trust to be a fast and consistent relative to the more competitive fleets in the country. If I were to buy another random J24 today, the first thing I would look for is a recently optimized keel shape and position from a reputable shop. If the keel was rubbish, everything else about the boat would have to be perfect before I would buy it, and then I'd save the money to pay a pro to build a keel. It's such an important component of the boats potential performance and market value. Good luck!
  13. Dogfish4255

    J24 Questions

    If you have a boat that requires lead corrector weights, you're better served by a bolted in/permanently mounted step box. This will be heavier, safer, and incorporated in the Basic Yacht Dry weight (1270kg), whereas without the same step-box weight you would be carrying that equivalent weight further towards the ends in the form of lead corrector weights (most coolers you can bolt/fit in the same space are significantly lighter than the OEM step box or equivalent). Just an amateur perspective.
  14. 2002 Bermuda Race between junior and senior year of college. Probably last full-send for the IOR 80 Drumbeat/Congere/Spank Me BT, champaign sailing in the Gulf Stream with big quartering seas in 20-30 knots, full sun, digging a 10-16 knot hole in the water with a full main and #2 jib-top after the vang tore it's track off the bottom of the boom. SDL 3rd overall, 3rd, in class. And the subsequent failed 2002 Around Long Island attempt, which concluded with my last time climbing that rig, a 1am mast-head mission with a flashlight and radio to confirm bridge clearances on our way back through the East River to Manhasset Bay.
  15. Dogfish4255

    Is this Laser mast step toast?

    Brian, if the boat is something you plan on racing again against other lasers, a professional repair is worth your time and $. I don't know if Sturgis does repairs (more of a dealer) out on the cape, but I know Andy Pimental at Jibetech in Portsmouth has probably addressed more laser mast steps than just about any other RI/MA shop in recent history. Gouv has so much experience that he could make any fiberglass repair sound really straight forward and simple, but if this repair isn't done right you could take the tube and the deck with it the next time you go sailing in any amount of wind. And pretty counts if you ever want to be able to sell the boat in the future. Just a free opinion.