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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Dogfish4255

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About Dogfish4255

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    Anarchist
  • Birthday 01/22/1981

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    rkinsm03
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  • Location
    Newport, RI
  • Interests
    Mostly sailboat racing, but woodworking, drinking, and sailboat racing are all up there.

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  1. J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    Yeah I think the problem is the word "pouring." "pouring" is like 1987 and polyester is the thing, and it's not actually a good way to do this. Laminating a new stack of foam interlaced with glass cloth, and epoxy with structural filler, layer by layer, is going to yield a significantly better result. That's why the layers are horizontal.
  2. J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    No compression sleeves. Layers of glass cloth sandwiching high density foam, capped with a topping plate of G10. There's no one in the class measurement community that would currently recommend a straight pour of resin of any kind, it just doesn't provide any structural integrity. First make the stack to fit Dry Fit Tie g10 plate/top of fill into surrounding hull with a layer or two of glass cloth. Allow to cure several days before final torque values.
  3. J 24 average boat weight?

    J24 weights are in kilograms, and basic yacht dry is the most reasonably repeatable number even though it requires making a yard-sale of boat contents in parking lot. Where 1270kg is the class minimum, I'd bet our fleet average is somewhere around 1290. In Newport we have a strong contingent of well prepared, mid to late 80 and newer hulls that are 1270-1280kg, and then a smaller number of older hulls, some of which spend the summer in the water full time. I'd expect some of the boats that aren't sailed often, the yard queens (there are only a few), are maybe more like 1290-1300kg. At a World Championship anything over 1290kg would be considered unusually heavy. 1280 isn't unusual, and not material to performance.
  4. J24 sump...epoxy or polyester resin filler?

    Here This gallery includes a good example of the repair you're talking about on a 1986 hull, which has two deep sections of keel sump forward, and one section full of vermiculite aft under the lifting strap. This is the correct, strong, J24 Class accepted method of filling the sump, for boats where one or more bays of the sump are filled up to the level to support the keel bolts torqued down. What you're looking at is a well cleaned, well abraded, ground surface (either 36 or 45 grit disk if I recall correctly). Prep a stack of cloth and high density foam (penske board, similar) plates to dry fit, first. Use epoxy neat to saturate the surfaces once clean and prepared to bond, then follow with epoxy thickened with structural filler. A g10 plate at the top, incorporated with a couple of sheathes of glass tied into the hull liner to both sides of the keel to cap it off nicely. Remember to create at least one or more drain holes into the deepest part of the bilge. Do not pour straight resin, regardless of the resin. Do not pour thickened epoxy or polyester without laying cloth and foam. You'll have made a very solid mess of things.
  5. Are J/24s Still Fun?

    Genoa sheets Maffiolli DSK Race PC cover or PK cover (if you have worn winch drums, the PK cover gives better grip), 8mm diameter, 42 feet. I used the Race PC option from the 2012-2014 J24 Worlds, and for the last year have been experimenting on various boats with the Racing PK cover. Basically the PK cover lets you do everything with 1 less wrap, regardless of the winch condition. If you don't want to pay for the gucci sheets, 8mm New England Poly Tec would also be an alternative, but I don't have any personal experience with that option. Whatever line you pick, don't use more than 8mm diameter, don't use longer than 42'
  6. Proper way to drill mast?

    While you're at it, proactively address the fasteners for the other cleats, to determine if the threads on those cleats have also turned to oxidized dust, and if so, re-drill and tap, treat the stainless fasteners with tefgel or similar. Blowing a cam cleat off the mast is either a symptom of 1) corrosion, and/or 2) you don't have the correct installation or number of cleats. The genoa halyard requires 2 Harken 150s or equivalent. Micros, or the Ronstan plastic cam stuff, will not hold up in the same use case as well. You need two cleats back to back on the genoa halyard to avoid "we blew the cleats off the mast," especially at the upper end of genoa or into the blade. Main halyard - 1 horn cleat OR 1 150 cam cleat AND a horn cleat Jib halyard - 2 (two, dos) harken 150s, preferably on short risers suitable for curved mast surface spin halyard - 1 harken 150 on the same riser as the genoa cleats
  7. J24 deck winchs best location

    Leave Texas out of it . . . You're still going to be required to mount primary winches to make your boat legal, and unless you're in Texas, the rest of your crew isn't interested in the kind pain that cabin-top crap causes. Use the Lopez blocks while you're learning a proper Newport rodeo (inside tack), because they're both useful in certain situations. But the inside rodeo is still preferred tacking method by the top of the fleet.
  8. J24 deck winchs best location

    Class Rule C.7.2(a)(4) reads . . . Any two primary winches positioned on deck between the mainsheet traveller and the aft face of the forward end of the cockpit well and with a drum diameter not exceeding 80mm. Primary winches may be on pedestals. So you should understand that the "positioning" provides a lot of real estate possibilities. However. 1) If you're going to compete, you're going to cross-sheet, and you'll want to know that the leeward winch isn't going to be in-line with the sheet angle from the leeward genoa block to the weather winch. The effect here, based on current genoa shapes and trimming trends, is that winches will be positioned a bit back from the "aft face of the forward end of the cockpit well." 2) If you're going to compete, your skipper is going to need to get out of the back of the bus, often fully forward of the traveler bar, and typically well outboard. This means the winches on most well-sailed J24 are substantially outboard of the edge of the cockpit well, like a drum diameter or more, often halfway between the cockpit well wall and the genoa track. You'll also want them to not be too far aft in the boat, because the skipper should be able to easily reach the winch handle and make a full revolution on the winch without substantial impact on their driving ability/position. 3) If any of this generates questions, you should find several other J24s you consider to be "fast," and ideally have your driver/trimmer take their typical "ready about" and "sailing upwind" positions on the deck to understand how it looks/feels with a winch handle in place. You will need slightly taller winch risers the farther outboard you place the winches, to limit override potential. In the photo attached these could have even been another inch or two aft and outboard, and that wouldn't have been unusual looking in the Newport fleet. Bob.
  9. Deck Fittings in to cored deck

    The other thing that manufacturer(s) typically can't take the time to do is set fasteners in bonding/bedding compound without tension on the fasteners one day, and then come back and snug things up a day or two later. If you're able to take the time to do this step, not only will you reduce your chances of having "starved" the part of bedding compound, you'll also have a longer lasting watertight seal.
  10. Jim Clark's fire sale continues

    Spring update; Boat's out of the tent, keel's up and cradle frame is going together around it, and there's a new spray shield structure added to the deck just at the forward end of the cockpit. Keel's got some fresh paint patch love happening.
  11. J24 Nationals

    185-188 ish at the moment, working down.
  12. J24 Nationals

    If you mean Sloop, then I think I can find my way. I still don't have a commitment to sail, but I'll be there to sail the local Tuesday night gig, and I'd like to find a team that needs a key player to sail the Nationals with as well. Let me know if you know any programs that are looking for people. Thanks.
  13. new laser sail - availability

    @WestCoast, what's your point of view on batten pricing . . . some are at $64, others at $32. How should our wallets vote?
  14. new laser sail - availability

    Just talked with Sturgis Boat Works, they have the sail available, but at premium pricing relative to some other East Coast outfits. APS doesn't appear to have stock right now. Colie might have stock later this week.
  15. Beyond the tuning guide

    "I'm beating my fleet by 3-5 minutes." Congratulations. In our local J24 fleet, there is no such margin of victory. 3-5 minutes ahead of second place only occurs in a class J24 race in unique, typically extremely light, heavy, or unstable conditions. If you're substantially convinced you're really sailing the boat well in all conditions (as opposed to just sailing your local handicap courses better than whatever other boats are sailing), you're going to have to find your way to an actual one design event. Preferably a well attended event. ​Exploration in and around the tuning guide is a great practice, and a lot of sailors I know in the fleet aren't "by the book," once they're away from the dock. Until you find an opportunity to participate at one or more class events, I recommend at least tuning your mast against "the book" as a base before you leave the dock.