andykane

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About andykane

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    Sailing

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  1. andykane

    diesel outboards

    With dual counter-rotating crankshafts and patented "Spaceball" design. Impressive.
  2. andykane

    Hurth HBW-5

    It's got a new shiny red Beta Marine paint job!
  3. andykane

    Mocking Ads on Craigslist

    Amazed nobody's grabbed this Star yet https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/boa/d/seattle-star-sail-boat/7238418009.html
  4. andykane

    Sail Replacement and Priorities

    Sounds like the sail is at least a couple decades past due for replacement, so I would prioritize that, and fix your existing rudder as you describe.
  5. andykane

    Radio is "busy" when instruments are on

    Turn up the squelch?
  6. andykane

    Refurb 1988 Moody 376

    With 6mm plexi it shouldn't take much pressure at all to bend it 1" over 3'. I wouldn't try to get any vertical bend - just let the 795 accommodate any difference in the cabin side angle). I would do something like this: - Strip of masking tape below window. Hot glue a few small blocks of wood to the tape to support bottom edge at correct height. - Use a narrow strip of foam weather stripping around the opening to give you the correct gap (~1/4", based on the 3' window length), and stop the 795 from gooping into the boat. - Place the port in position, and use a couple sticks to the toe rail to get the fore/aft bend. Shouldn't take much pressure at all. Make sure all the alignment looks good. - Remove, and apply the goop. - Place back in position - Leave the blocks and sticks in position for a couple days (795 cures slowly), then remove it all and let it sit for a couple more weeks before you stress it.
  7. andykane

    Refurb 1988 Moody 376

    You could skip the tape and just use 795. You'll want a 1/4" thickness or so, which will let you adjust for the weird angle.
  8. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    Yessir. And scrubbed everything clean too, so ugly as it is, there's at least a theoretical chance it will hold.
  9. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    Well this turned more popular that I would have guessed. Maybe it's time to start up a Patreon account. I did my best attempt at the seal it from below approach, now just wait and see. I don't have high hopes as you can probably see from the photo. Access is very tight, and the hole isn't much bigger than the wire. But I pulled the washer (which has a notch cut for the wiring...) and gooped it in there as best I could. Judging by how I could easily slide the wiring up and down, there was zero sealant in there before. Plan B is flex the pulpit outboard enough to clean under the base, and inject some caulking from on deck. My go-to butyl tape can't get far enough under the base but I think some injected sealant might. Plan never ever going to happen is Gouv's idea to unbolt the toerails, complete with the total lack of access and glued in place with 5200 fun that that would entail.
  10. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    There's no corrosion between the base and the toe rail - there's a lip on the toe rail that the base mechanically locks into. With the phillips bolt out I can flex the whole thing pretty good, but it needs to pivot around 40 degrees outboard before the lip disengages. You can see the lip a bit in this photo - notice how there's an upward hook on the cleat that locks into it. The pulpit base is the same deal.
  11. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    No reason other than a little voice saying "no, that just can't be a good idea". But I'm quickly coming to think it may be the best option. That's a great idea. With it off the boat I think I could get the bases off. I'll store this in the "long term plan" file. Good point - no risk of redirecting the water into the core. Sealing from below it is. The pulpit's fine, the problem is the small gap under the base which is not really enough to caulk without resorting to the "bathtub fillet" method, but plenty big for lots of water that runs down the deck to drain through the hole, down the wires, and into the v-berth. Thanks everyone, sounds like the winner is just goop it up from below.
  12. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    Not super clear from the photos but there's a downward lip on the toe rail, so they need to rotate outboard about 45deg before they release. There's a bit of flex in the pulpit but not nearly enough. Access is (of course) poor. I'll try a torch on the base, see if that's enough to loosen things up. A wire gland is a good idea, but I'd still need to seal the old hole.
  13. andykane

    How to remove this pulpit

    My boat uses these trick stanchion bases that lock into the toe rail and are held in place with one big bolt. This is a pretty slick setup, except 35 years down the road when I need to remove the pulpit and the stainless posts are corroded into the aluminum bases. I can't remove the post, so I can't pivot the base because the other side of the pulpit locks it in place. Any idea how to deal with this? I need to seal a wiring penetration under one of the bases, which I can't really do without removing it. And yes, I've removed the set screws.
  14. andykane

    Refurb 1988 Moody 376

    I was doing just this, yesterday. I found the warm water made a difference (I had to boil some on the stove), then gave it a good scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad. I didn't bother with ammonia, just TSP and water. I think the slightly abrasive scotchbrite pad really helps get through the built up oil/gunk.
  15. I once came across a forum for washing machine enthusiasts. Ain't the internet great.