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About stuartXe

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  • Location
    Sardinia, Italy
  • Interests
    enjoying life, starting new ventures, tackling old problems, anything above or below the water, incl sailing of course!

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  1. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    And btw I never posted the picture of the Carbon Navtex Antenna support I made (proudly). Was very easy to make and shaved over 50g in weight. Every little counts.
  2. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    Lazyjack Lazy. I have't always lowered the lazyjacks and taken them to the mast, partly due to lazyness, partly because the steel rings bang tend to on the mast. Now I pay a small price: a few 1-2 mm chafe points on the mainsail where the taffeta is worn out and the black technora fiber is exposed (sail is filmless). Today I did a full inspection and it's petty stuff, sail is otherwise perfect (about 1 year old and 3,000 NM of use). Will repair with insignia tape same as Spreader patches and going forward will make 2 changes: 1. Lazyjacks always to the mast; 2. New job on to do list: Make new lazyjacks in dyneema, with loop splice in lieu of steel ring/low friction rings: PROS: less chafe on sail and no banging on mast, CONS: bit more friction as the 2 dyneema lines run through the loop. overall it seems a good solution - I'll research and decide soon. some pics of the damage, and the otherwise perfect mainsail
  3. Culprit: Lazyjack lazyness. Today no wind so I hoisted the main and things are better than it seemed. The sail is in good condition, the friction is due to chafe on the lazyjacks. My bad for not taking them to the mast every time. I do sometimes but will be more mindful of this. The damage is limited and the sailmaker is sending me insignia so I can make spreader tapes and cover this area. Having said this, I'm thinking of making new lazyjacks with 3/4" dyneema, and replace the steel rings with just running the dyneema through a loop. PROS: less chafe and no rings banging on mast when sailing. CONS: the loop means a bit more friction than using low friction rings. I'll do some research and decide this week. The topic is well covered on this forum!! Here pics of the sail. Thanks for the great feedback, appreciated it!
  4. I have a few spots (1-2 mm) where the taffeta is worn and the fiber (black technora) is exposted. There's about 20+ of those across the entire mainsail, not all in chafe areas which makes me wonder if it could be UV degradation of the Taffeta (The taffeta has overall discolored a bit). This sail is Filmless, Black Technora, double taffeta. 1 year old, sailed 3,000NM, still great shape and looks as good as new save for these millimetric points. I'm preparing some spreader patches (searching the best material) and wonder if I should patch up each area of exposed fiber. Any insight would be much appreciated.
  5. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    Thanks Jud, yes for me this is the culmination of many years planning the ideal boat for my needs amd im loving it In terms of price the boat is 168k EUR plus sails and all extras you want. As a minimum you need 220k to fit it out. Some went as high as 330k but that is way unnecessary. I'll share my specs one day. The main thing when choosing a boat like this is whether you value having a yard like JPK where the base boat is already very good but you have a lot of room to discuss your preferences!!
  6. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    In the meantime, lousy installation of a hose fitting of my Eberspacher Heating caused me a cold night at anchor and a bad surprise in the morning: The main hot air hose came loose, so hot air blew in my aft locker rather than in the cabin. The locker overheated and the heater went into emergency shut off. I restarted it a few times (sometimes it shuts off if there is a back wind) but then I gave up as clearly there was a problem. In the morning I found out the damage. Nothing catastrophic, and I already informed the yard and the insurance (I assume it's a yard's problem rather than insurance): 1. Aft Speakers don't work - they have not been working for a few weeks, problem may be unrelated or perhaps the thin speakers wire coating was the first to melt and short! 2. Autopilot dust cover is distorted - Autopilot works well but I'll have the drive belt checked (Think it's the only part that could suffer heat). 3. A plastic support holding my Navtex antenna has been deformed by the heat - it was made of Forex I believe, which is molded with a heat gun. I'm making a new one in carbon fiber as a first attempt to work carbon rather than glass - opportunity to learn I suspect the temperature may have reached 100/120 degrees for the heater to have gone into Emergency shut off. I know GRP can reach up to 100 degrees during the infusion process in some monolithic sections, so i'm not worried about structural damage to the fiberglass (and there are no signs of any). There is no visual damage elsewhere but this did make me realise how easy the risk of fire (or heat damage) is and the importance of triple checking any system that could be a fire hazard. All hoses are properly connected, except this one that came loose because it was fastened with a plastic clamp rather than steel!!! Ok the heater has an 80 degrees output temperature so it may not actually be a fire hazard. I'll let you know how I get on - hope to have all fixed within a few days. Here a little video with the damage:
  7. Thank you everyone for the great advice. This is how I solved my problem. If you want to know the details, I documented it on my boat's page (link below):
  8. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    I got some great advice here and elsewhere regarding my Gennaker furler attachment to the bowsprit. I considered all options and here is what I did: Adding a 2:1 sheave a neat solution and gives an extra control, but given that my halyard is already 2:1 and I'm happy with the tension I get on it I decided to go with the simplest option - keeping the ethos of this boat of minimising systems whenever possible: The problem was caused because the furler's snap shackle and the U-bolt's round profiles, they worked away on each other till they had enough surface to carry the load. No structural issues but it caused sharp steel parts that chafed by dyneema lashing. I found this to be a very common problem on other boats, but most owners didn't even realise, because the 2 steel parts wear each other out till they get to a good working solution and there are no structural consequences. You only have a problem if on the same U-bolt there are other lashings (as in my case, for the spi tack line). My sister boats (previous 19 JPK38 models) use a shackle and sheave to get the spi tack line on the bowsprit, so they don't have a problem. But I have a low friction ring and dyneema lashing around the U-bolt. I could have just hanged this configuration to the one of the other boat. But I did this instead: 1. Faired the snap shackle and replaced the U-bolt (20 Euro) - so far no rust on the steel I faired. 2. With both parts smoothed, I decided to use a soft connector between the 2, I considered using a soft shackle, a dyneema loop around the prod and other solutions. 3. I temporarily sailed with a webbing loop (I have a few onboard) - This is rated at 22KN so load no problem, but I wasn't sure about UV degradation and possible twist resistance. It worked well temporarily: 3. My final (for now) solution was to splice a dyneema loop + brummel splice: Rather than having just a loop around the U-bolt, I wanted to use the U-bolt to hold its position but also the Prod to load the weight. I made a brummel splice catching the U-bolt in the loop. The brummel splice serves to center the loop on the U-bolt but what carries the load is the loop around the bowsprit. I have then taken the dyneema all the way back into the brummel loop and around again. There is no way this is ever going to come loose Here you can see it set up with the Spi tack line dyneema lashing: Dyneema loop around the U-bolt - then I saw many boats with this setup but the loop around the
  9. This is the standard Karver shackle (damaged), and their suggested 2:1 / 3:1 alternative:
  10. This is the U bolt on the bowsprit - attachment point for the gennaker furler - you can see the lip on the steel chafing the dyneema (this holds a low friction ring through which the spi tack line passes).
  11. I attach my Gennaker furler (Karver KF2) to the bowsprit using the gennaker's standard snap shackle. Problem is in a very short time the friction between them has worn them out a fair bit and developed sharp steel points that are chafing the dyneema lashing of the Spinnaker tack. I identified 3 possible solutions but not found much online to see if i'm on the right track. any direct experience is very welcome!! 1. Splice a short dyneema loop around the U-bolt and attach the shackle to it - this is the simplest thing, but I worry about torsion in this look when furling the gennaker in wind - I would be very interested in knowing if anyone uses this solution. 2. Karver suggested I replace the standard snap shackle with their 2:1 / 3:1 friction sheave. This, they say, will also better stabilise the drum when furl/unfurling and will make it easier to to install the furler when the bowsprit is out. This option works but adds a circuit and i'm keen to keep things simple. If I go this way I then wonder whether I could part with the spi tack and use the 3:1 circuit for the spi tack too - main price is the longer purchase system when rigging the spi and the heavier shackle (Karver's is 100g). I've shared a few more details on my boat's thread. Any insight is much appreciated
  12. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    Very quick feedback from Karver this morning. As you point out this issue is not uncommon. Their suggested solution is to replace the standard snap shackle with the 2:1 / 3:1 friction sheave. This, they say, will also better stabilise the drum when furl/unfurling and will make it easier to to install the furler when the bowsprit is out. I wonder if setting this up 2:1 I could use the spinnaker's tack line, or what the issue would be if I use the new 3:1 sheave as a spi tack too. A simpler, cheaper and workable solution may however just be to splice a soft dyneema loop around the U-bolt on the bowsprit and use the snap shackle on that, which is what I think you too are suggesting. I'm looking for pics of similar set ups. concerned about torsion when furling in heavy wind. I'll start a dedicated thread in gear anarchy or fix it anarchy and revert with the conclusion!
  13. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    Possible that a new Wichard U bolt (Pad Eye) has a manufacturing defect (steel is not smooth, so chafing)? Or should I look at the next cause? I've just emailed the sailmaker and rigger for their advice, but thought I'll post here in case someone has a view: I noticed that the Wichard U bolt (Pad Eye) on the spinnaker pole (at the Spi/Gennaker tack attachment point) has some damage and is chafing the dyneema lashing of the Spinnaker tack (pics below). I don't know if this was a faulty Wichard U-bolt (I didn't notice it before) but maybe it's the Gennaker Karver furler (attached to the same pad eye with a snap shackle when in use), and when under load it is scratching the steel of the U-bolt ?? Seems unlikely as this is the intended use. Is it possible the Wichard had a manufacturing defect? I don't want to replace the U-bolt and then find the problem persists. I have 2 possible solutions: 1. Change the Spi tack line set up - currently passes through a low friction ring and dyneema lashing on the U bolt - to a steel (so the scratched steel won't chafe) - problem solved. 2. But if I want to keep my current set up, assuming the cause of the problem is the furling gennaker's snap shackle, I need to change this. bearing in mind the furler needs to twist so it can't be attached to the spi tack line.
  14. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    Quick reply as I just saw your post while I wanted to post on something else... Light wind performance - was one of my criteria - I want to move at decent speed even in the summer low winds we have here when most other sailboats are motoring. In light winds I love the gennaker all the time sailing upwind at 40 degrees angles and even manage to "tack" with it. Sailing in short waves is regular but somehow no slamming - i did not expect this as I too did not get to test the boat in short sea before - compared to a class 40 or a Pogo 12.50, great boats, the JPK38 project started on a class 40 concept but the hull has a deeper V that makes it way softer yet still easy planing. As for sailing angles, I don't have polars but have those a friend of mine made with a VPP program and they are on line with my performance 100% if i'm light and set up to go fast, 90% if cruising. 80% being lazy. I'll send them when I'm on the boat next. Enjoy the process of boat searching
  15. stuartXe

    New boat construction - JPK 38 FC

    This weekend we celebrated 3,000 miles of sailing together since commissioning in January. Solo, with family, with new and old friends. We sailed in 60 kts and in very light winds. She's fast in any conditions, safe and practical. I've not set her up for racing, with a furling staysail etc, but it's been fun to occasionally join a race just for the fun of being in the front all the way, with my kids driving. So much so that the second JPK to come to Italy is being built for a guy that was so impressed he sold his boat (RM, still a very nice boat, but really not as fast) and ordered one . No buyer's remorse here. Just wish I was sailing more!! Here a pic today in Sardinia. I have not had any major problems to date (nothing that would stop me sailing) but there are a few things on my to do list such as adding a jammer for the spi tack line at the bow so I can rig it all from there when I sail alone and other things.