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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Tyson0317

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About Tyson0317

  • Rank
    Anarchist

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle
  • Interests
    Owned a 26ft Sloop.
    Sunk on a 26ft Sloop.
    Crewed on a 36ft Sloop.
    Bought a 35ft Sloop - J/35 Hull Number 251.
    Currently S/V Solution of Seattle.
    Former Standing Ovation of Gig Harbor.
    Former More Power of San Francisco.
  1. J/35 Backstay Piston

    For posterity - Navtec got bought by Lewmar, but when I called there, their staff was clearly instructed to deny having had any affiliation with Navtec whatsoever! Despite that my backstay piston had both Navtec and Lewmar written on it, despite the fact that Navtec's old website is now registered and owned by Lewmar, despite the fact that Lewmar now occupies the same building that was used by Navtec's US HQ. The people at Lewmar were literally as unhelpful as f'n possible!! Navtec was apparently French-based, and I happen to have an employee that speaks their language. Tried calling international - they are out of business. Next step was Harken. Their catalog has a nearly identical piston in it. I even saw photos of it! However, despite the $1,500 price tag (!!!?WTF?!!!) they do not exist! Fisherie's rep was getting nowhere with Harken on inventory, so I worked the phones until I got through to the main guy in their custom order department. Sounds like a very small mickey-mouse operation. Turns out, they pretty much assemble these things per order. If they have the component parts, you are looking at 6-8 weeks for delivery!! (Mind you, it's a tube, with a piston, 3-4 seals and 2 valves - not a space shuttle!) Over 3 calls and 2 days, the Harken guy could not give me a straight answer on whether they actually had all of the component parts! Organization there seemed to have been at a very high level! He also could not even give me a guess on delivery time if it turned out that they didn't have the component parts.... Needless to say, I was quite bummed! Out of the blue I got referred to a local guy here in West Seattle named Lew Townsend. Guy was a total bad-ass! I went to his shop with my bent rod and saw that he had drawers full of new parts for these things, decent shop with an impressive array of machine tools and he seemed to know how to use them! He gutted and repaired my piston within 3 days, came to the boat and replaced it for us. Not sure what the total bill was (since someone else was paying), but I think it was around $400. Compared to the cluster-f I was going to deal with Harken, this was a god-send! I'm hesitant to post his contact info here. But if you ask around, he is apparently well-known around these parts for this stuff.
  2. J/35 Backstay Piston

    Mine has the pump under the entry to the cabin, so the thing in the back is just a piston. The pump part is Navtec, I'm pretty sure. Will take pics tomorrow. Mine got bent recently (don't ask), so it's beyond repair. Need to find an equivalent piston - preferably something that will just bolt on and is carried by Fisheries' Will post pics tomorrow.
  3. J/35 Backstay Piston

    Hey guys - my question didnt get much traction on FixIt page, so I'm going to try here: I have an '89 vintage (Hull #251) J/35. My hydralic piston needs some love, but it is missing identifying marks. It's damaged and needs replacement. Does anyone know who made the thing, or what model number it is? It doesn't look like a complicated part. Is there an equivalent replacement? Thanks in advance.
  4. J/35 Backstay hydraulic piston

    Guys - I have an '89 vintage (Hull #251) J/35. My hydralic piston needs some love, but it is missing identifying marks. Does anyone know who made the thing, or what model number it is? It doesn't look like a complicated part. Is there an equivelant replacement? Thanks in advance.
  5. J/35 Ball Compass?

    So I am pretty much screwed in a way of repair/refill for this guy, right?
  6. How did you find your J (109)

    I've noticed this before when shopping for cars. There always seems to be a ton of them for sale exempt for when you are looking to buy. I think its a psychological thing. I will say, you are nowhere near spring buy rush, despite what some brokers may tell you. There are just not that many of them around here. One thing I would try is to look at race results from like 2013-14 at styc, cyc, etc. then compare them to last season and see if any 109's stopped racing or go out seldom. Results often list the owner name and I've has good luck finding owners via google. If all else fails, contact their club commodore. Ask if their boat is for sale...
  7. J/35 Ball Compass?

    ass-repair lol!
  8. J/35 Ball Compass?

    GW, Seriously?! It had some sticker on it that said something to the effect of, "non-serviceable, not-refillable". Any more wisdom on how to do that? Or a place that would do that for me? Before removal, my heel indicator was starting to get sticky. The oil that came out of it, was somewhat mysterious in that there was a fair bit of it, but it still does not have any air bubbles in the ball.
  9. J/35 Ball Compass?

    I was concerned about dissimilar materials (the cover is starboard) expanding differently under various conditions and causing seal failure and water leakage. A 2.5" spacing seemed like a good idea. I could have done better with dividing the spaces evenly, but it was freezing outside and I wanted to git-er-done. Used the Marine 4200UV stuff to caulk the crap out of everything. We get a sick amount of rain here. Having anything completely watertight is an idiot's dream - the idea is to get very, very close and pay Matt Stevenson to fix whatever causes a problem later ;-) Per the compass mounting - below the blue girl's butt is a giant plate that holds our hydraulic backstay pump. Come to think of it, I should probably check that thing for leaks sometime soon...
  10. J/35 Ball Compass?

    I get it guys - I even learned how to use and own a sextant. I can do slide-rule and field compass navigation. But this is Puget Sound and I have at least 3 completely independent systems. Well, rules are rules. Thanks for the rule quote and the Richie recommendation! Per impact rating - I have at least one crewmember that will test that for us really well! We used to have our older plotter mounted on a swing arm in the companionway. On one race, he fell down the hole and used the plotter arm to slow his decent. The arm was not rated for that load and came down with the plotter, cabling and the whole rig. Two weeks later we found ourselves grounded on a rock spire... Going to try this bulkhead method and see how it goes.
  11. J/35 Ball Compass?

    Recently, my J/35 got a bit of an instrument upgrade: As you may notice, I did not re-mount the ball compass. It leaked some oil and seemed useless. Someone told me once that in some forms of racing those things are required and some crews complain about the instrument space they take up. I now feel the same. We race in the Puget Sound. I cannot fathom a scenario where I will need my ball compass to aid my navigation. I have my plotter, each of the instruments, my wrist watch, my cell phone and my tablet, all of which have independent compasses; not to mention whatever gizmos my crew have... Anyway, a rule is a rule. But what is the rule? Local sailing rules reference other rules, which in turn reference yet another set of rules. It's like that Inception movie. Any of you know-it-alls know the answer here? Tyson
  12. J/35 Zinc Eating Rate

    Underwater welding - check! Thanks guys!
  13. J/35 Zinc Eating Rate

    My J35 has just the one zinc and its located on the prop shaft. We replaced it last April. I dove the boat last friday to clean the bottom and was surprised to find that it was almost completely eaten away. The boat is moored in Puget Sound in a marina. Do you feel that this is a normal rate of decay? Is there anything that I should be concerned about or look at?
  14. Removable cooling coil.

    Thanks for the replies guys! That kit looks just like the thing!
  15. Removable cooling coil.

    My J/35 came with a quite impressive ice box - the thing is really well-insulated and holds ice for a long time. The boat is used 98% of the time for local day races, but on occasion we go on longer trips where it would be nice to have actual refrigeration on board. I've been looking at the "Whynter FM-45G 45-Quart Portable Refrigerator/Freezer" on Amazon, but I am struggling with the fact that the thing weighs 55lbs and takes up room aboard. If I bought it, I could not justify keeping it aboard due to its weight and it would probably just take up room in my garage for all but the 10 days per year I would need it. Then lugging it back and forth... The ideal solution would be some sort of a cold coil that I could put inside of my ice box. I realize that coils don't just get cold by magic - a compressor and radiator would have to sit on the outside of the box. But I would imaging that this kind of solution would be much simpler. As I type this, I am thinking whether buying a small fridge and cannibalizing it for parts may be my answer... Does anyone know of a ready-made product, or can suggest a solution?