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About ZeeZee

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  1. ZeeZee

    J/111 staysail

    Did you make any reinforcements below deck to fit the pad eye?
  2. I have a J/111 on which I do a lot of solo and two-handed. Main mods I did to the boat to facilitate this: - Cunningham let back to the cockpit - Vang adjustable on both port and starboard side of the companionway - Jibs with soft hanks - code-0 on furler - proper autopilot with remote - Trimming marks on all lines. Especially important to mark the halyards for each reefing point and full hoist points. Same for tackline. - Performance data and course data from Expedition made visible on displays in the cockpit - Forward/outboard lead positions for the jib - Reaching strut for jibs - Barberholers for the code-0 and A5
  3. ZeeZee

    Why hasn't a J/111 raced to Hawaii yet?

    What sort of problems did these owners have with the rudder?
  4. ZeeZee

    J/88 for single handed day sailing?

    Should be a great boat to sail solo. I do a lot of single- and two-handed on my J/111 and all is easy to manage, including the big gennakers. However, a good auto pilot is a prerequisite!
  5. ZeeZee

    Racing Boat Crew Performance Software

    I have my Expedition data folder defined on Google Drive. So, as soon as the PC that runs Expedition connects to internet, all expedition data in synced to the cloud so I can access it for analysis everywhere.
  6. ZeeZee

    H5000 Leeway factor?

    On the internet you can find ORC speed guides from Farr 40 and 30 as well as First 40 and 35 which include leeway as well as heel. From these figures I calculated what the average K should approximately be for the beat angles of these boats which is a value between 7,5 and 8,5. Given the target beating heel, this gives a leeway between (approx) 2 (TWS=6) and 4,7 degrees (TWS=20) which is in the range that is also calculated in the ORC speed guide.
  7. ZeeZee

    B&G H5000 Heel Correction

    It's from NKE (which is actually an Airmar model I believe, but I don't know which model)
  8. ZeeZee

    B&G H5000 Heel Correction

    I use an ultrasonic speedo which is very lineair accross a wide range of BSP. However, when heeled I apply a correction up to -3%. This is on a J/111
  9. ZeeZee

    J 121

    In my case the tackline is about twice the length of the boat. Streaming it in the water not only prevents it from tangling itself, but also makes the release of the tackline go very smooth even if the gennaker is under full pressure.
  10. ZeeZee

    J 121

    I frequently sail my J/111 solo and with winds over 15 knots the letterbox is absolutely the safest way to douse the gennaker. Under 15 knots there are other alternatives like a luff drop into the forward hatch or just douce it under the boom into the companionway. A few things I do for the letterbox drop: - You can walk the lazy sheet around the headstay and then in between the foot of the mainsail and the boom. Then use this lazy sheet to pull the gennaker towards you until you can grab the foot. I don't prefer this method as first of all it is less safe to walk the sheet around when it is windy and second: you need to re-rig the lazy sheet after the gennaker is douced. Instead I use a spare rope that I fix with a knot in the companionway, then run this rope between boom and mainsail, around the active gennaker sheet and then back between boom and mainsail to the companionway. Once the tackline is blown, I use this rope to pull the 'active' gennaker sheet towatrds the letterbox until I can grab the foot of the gennaker. No need to re-rig the lazy sheet afterwards and much safer (imho). - Once I have rigged the spare rope as described above, I stream the tackline and the gennaker halyard in the water behind the boat. This not only ensures the lines don't get tangled, but is also creates just the amount of friction for a controlled douce. In the end of the halyard is afigur eof 8 knot. The tackline does not contain an end knot as the last thing you want is the tack to get stuck and the foot of the gennaker to catch water. - Once the above is done, I drive down to TWA 165 on the autopilot. - Blow the tackline completely by opening the jammer. As the tackline is streaming in the water the gennaker will fly to leeward in a very controlled way. - Pull the spare rope between mainsail and boom until you can grab the foot of the gennaker. Then start collecting the entire foot. (most of the time I do this sitting on the rood just in fron of the companionway) - Open the jammer of the gennaker halyard. With the halyard streaming n the water with a figure 8 knot at the end there is just the right amount of friction to now start pulling the gennaker down is a very controlled manner. - Once the gennaker is safe down in the companionway you can start removng the sheets, halyard and tackline and re-pack the gennaker in its bag for the next hoist.
  11. ZeeZee

    Is this the Figaro III?

    Sailing short handed I always stream the tack line in the water behind the boat when dropping the gennaker. This not only prevents the line of become trapped, it also 'damps' the sail movement when blowing the tackline clutch.
  12. ZeeZee

    Is this the Figaro III?

    Why have a trip line running on deck if you can just blow the tackline instead? You only need to make sure your tackline is long enough.
  13. ZeeZee

    New Swan 36

    It's a useless boat: you can't cruise with it, you can't overnight in it, you can't go offshore and it's still MUCH slower and more expensive than a kiteboard or windsurfer.
  14. ZeeZee

    Sun Fast 3300

    And on NKE instruments the TWA is without leeway. On new boats the BSP is always calbrated to please the sales department.
  15. ZeeZee

    North Helix Sails vs regular Code zero

    No, what you read is correct. The Sailmon manual gives a good explanation on how back-calculated AWA/AWS is derived. Read page 18 and 19: https://sailmon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Calibration-Manual-and-Data-Reference-Rev1.6.pdf B&G and NKE do something similar (at least in their higher end systems).