Islander Jack

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About Islander Jack

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    Oceanside, CA

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  1. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    I couldn't find a Mustang Survival sing-point attachment but I found this $189 Spinlock Deck Pro Harness: Something to think about. Thanks, Ronin.
  2. Islander Jack

    Powder coat vs hard anodize?

    Extruded and plate aluminum anodize well. Cast aluminum does not anodize well, if at all. If you're unsure, check to see if your part will take up the color from Alodyne (a chromate conversion solution). If it does, it will anodize well. If not, then not.
  3. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    After much thought I decided to continue to use fixed points only, no jackline. It's a small boat and the points are not so far apart. And I've decided to stick with my non-locking carabiner at the far end, put small rope loops through the hard points, and clip to those loops so that the hard points can't distort or unclip the carabiner. My next humbly-asked question is about my harness-to-tether connection. It will definitely remain quick-release, but my current geometry looks just terrible: The D-rings, with their nearly opposing geometry, are practically daring the snap shackle to open. And I see that the available harnesses aren't any better. What is everybody else doing about this? A carabiner between the D-rings and the snap shackle would help, but donning and doffing the harness will be more troublesome. Maybe build a harness with one D-ring and one snap shackle, so that, fully assembled, two snap shackles -- one from the other side of the harness and one from the tether -- clip to one D-ring? By the way, based on Practical Sailor advice I just bought some 8.5 mm climbing half-rope. Gear Express is selling 20m for less than $40.
  4. Islander Jack

    White smoke

    I'm guessing he means "ran only without load." I once had white "smoke" (actually steam) when my heat exchanger got loaded up with deposits from not running the engine enough. The temperature gauge was OK and it looked like I had good flow out the exhaust, but I had simply become used to seeing flow that had diminished over the months. I took the end caps off the heat exchanger and carefully rodded it out with a stripped length of solid and smoothed electrical wire, a many-hour job if you want to keep your exchanger intact.
  5. Islander Jack

    Managing epoxy cure times

    That does sound more difficult. I've done overhead and vertical but not both simultaneously. And my areas were about 1 square foot or less. Maybe area is a factor or success. Good description! I did 6 lams twice for 12 lams total. Yes, between applications I waited until it gelled very well. I was using Apex epoxy, which is more viscous than West, so maybe viscosity is also factor. Harder to wet out but easier to paste up. By the way, I really like Apex, even though it's a bit thicker. Cures super hard. But I keep West on the shelf because it has long life. Edit: long shelf life. Another thing to worry about with this method is trapping big air bubbles between the substrate and the lay-up. I attach the stack to the substrate along one side and roll it on from there, then roll more for assurance. Regarding vinegar clean-up: Whenever I try it I'm left with a thin slime. Yes, it's inert, but I find I have to remove it with acetone. Mixing 5:1... I measure out the small volume first, then calculate and match the large volume to it. I may end up with more or less total batch than I want, but the ratio comes out better than if it were a 2:1 mix.
  6. Islander Jack

    Managing epoxy cure times

    For vertical or overhead applications I lay up horizontally on peel ply or polyethylene sheet from Home Depot, then transfer to the site. For a mainsheet traveler backing I did 6 layers of 17 oz biax at a time . I was done in two cycles. And the polyethylene sheet was big enough between folds that it worked as peel ply. (Polyethylene sheet doesn't work as peel ply for polyester resin, by the way. The styrene expands the polyethylene.) As for epoxy speed, when I mix up a lot I set the mixture on ice packs in a six-pack cooler.
  7. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    OK, more evidence that masthead tether is a bad idea. I feel protected from both leeward and weather MOB when tethered to my spin pole ring and it would have been nice to extend that range, but no. Back to jacklines, and getting hung up by the lazy sheet when going to the headstay, etc.
  8. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    Then you should have written better. Perhaps, " I don't understand why people try to come up with new ways to do things safer when they don't even employ known, safer techniques." But then that would have been an obvious strawman argument. To the usual core group of snarky Anarchists (not necessarily Merit25): You cut down every new member and every fresh question/suggestion/idea, no matter its value, whether it's presented with humility or pride. This is how you entertain each other and re-confirm your tribal membership. It's not just SA. Virtually every special-interest website evolves to this. In the next phase people who might have joined the site look to other sites where lower expertise is compensated by more cooperation. The site gets no fresh blood, and the core group, lacking fodder for its disparagement engine, moves on to discussing news and politics rather than the special interest for which the site was created. If you're here for exclusive tribal membership, maybe it's time for you to move over to PA and let others, perhaps less knowledgeable, respond to the fresh blood's naive posts. Now, before the core snarkists tell me to fuck off... Fuck off.
  9. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

  10. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    Boat is 30 ft LOA, 10 ft beam, 8600 pounds, not a tender boat, and I weigh only 152 pounds. Still, this may be a borderline case. Before implementing this system I should go out with a friend and jump overboard while on a beam reach in a fresh breeze. A masthead tether would be superior in the admittedly rare case of falling overboard to weather. Actually, on my boat I feel that weather MOB is just as likely as lee MOB. Can't explain why, though. And I guess weather MOB is my primary motivation for a masthead tether. Well, guess I'll stay with the standard jacklines until (and if ever) I can fully test the masthead tether. Your grippy line is a standard jackline, no? Why grippy? Where's the prusik?
  11. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    Falling to leeward on a jackline is no fun, either.
  12. Islander Jack

    Tether to masthead?

    Yesterday in the slip I tethered myself to my jib halyard and cleated the halyard off with just enough length so that I could grab the bow roller pin with both hands. Then I went abeam on the dock and checked my height with taught halyard. My shoulders would be a couple inches above the rail -- pretty nice! -- and I could still get to the companionway. Yes, the walk for and aft would be outside all shrouds, but I do that, anyway. To implement this tether I could run a long tether line through my unused spare jib halyard sheaves, maybe even use dynamic climbing rope For tethering in the cockpit I would attach another tether to the joint of my split backstay, also high above the waterline. When switching I could clip into the new one before releasing the old one. I can't think of anything wrong this tether system, but I'm sure you guys can. Thoughts?
  13. Islander Jack

    Rich Folks' Ego "Racing"

    He's busy modifying a Corolla. The DeLorean is now beyond his reach.
  14. Islander Jack

    Rich Folks' Ego "Racing"

    One answer to cost escalation in mere-mortal sailboat racing is the concept of a "claiming race." They're popular in horse racing and well known in amateur auto racing, but I've never heard of one in sailing, so I'll risk boring this group with the details. To enter your boat in the race, you must agree that, before the race, anyone can buy your boat -- "claim" it -- for a fixed price, and take possession after the race. Same price for every boat in the race. Boats are completely open to inspection before the race. If you enter a boat that's worth significantly more than the claiming price, you will probably win the race but you will certainly have it claimed away from you. It's not as bad as it first appears, though, since you can go to the next race, inspect a few boats, buy one with the money you received when your previous boat was claimed away, and be back racing. The strategy, then, would be to keep your boat's value just below the claiming price. You have to be a good appraiser as well as a good skipper. So instead of, say, a PHRF 117-125 class there would be, say, a $50k claiming class. I think the real fun would be down in the $5k races. Bent pulpits at the start? Meh, no worries!
  15. Islander Jack

    weight aloft

    And those 19th century Southern plantation owners were rightly proud to be creating work in their good ol' American cotton fields.