Malaya

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About Malaya

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    Ventura/Santa Barbara CA

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  1. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    Update Here is the work that I have done to correct the overheating issue: Removed heat exchanger, boiled out, rodded clean, pressure tested, painted exterior. The exchanger looked good on removal, looks great on reinstallation. I reinstalled it 3/4" higher (wanted to get the top of the fill higher than the high side bleed valve, but still be able to fill and inspect) as suggested buy my local Yanmar mechanic. Removed and inspected fresh water pump. This pump has a bronze impeller, it looked good, tolerances for the impeller are good, new gasket, cleaned up the "plumbing" on the bleed valve was able to remove 2 fittings thus 3 less joints to leak or suck. Replaced all fresh water hoses and replaced all hose clamps. Removed and tested both thermostats (yup Yanmar has 2 little ones and the service manual shows only 1) and they are the fresh water temps 160F and the both work. New gasket and closed. Refilled system with new antifreeze. All new salt water hoses and clamps. New impeller in the salt water pump. Oh and a new radiator cap for heat exchanger. This was the only item that I discovered there was an issue. I had been using a 14 psi rated cap in fact a new one. As per the Yanmar mechanic I am now running a 7 psi rated cap. Ok I didn't realize there are different rated caps, something new!!! Testing so far in the slip: run for 45 min. in gear, 2400 rpm, temperature up to 170-180F shut down engine. Restart after 1 hour, run for 45 min. in gear, 2400 rpm, temperature up to 170-180F shut down. I have done this 3 cycles and have not had the over heating issue to date. I need to go sailing this weekend and see if my work has fixed the issue. I do have a hard time believing the cap was causing the issue, but who knows. Oh did an oil change too, so now my maintenance log looks great.
  2. Malaya

    Show your boat sailing thread

    Overdraft The Corsair 18 was my first boat bought in '74 and rebuilt it than taught myself to sail.
  3. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    Seabell, yes salt water side is showing staining, old and repaired, the gasket on the end cap, need a paint touch up. Cap to be replaced tomorrow along with hoses and clamps. I replace the raw water impeller every season and to date never have removed an impeller with bits missing (15 years now). Going to take a hard look at fresh water pump this weekend as well.
  4. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    Fourth hose to H/X is at the top of the H/X fresh water return located just below the fill cap. I don't believe the core is removable but will check over the week end. If there are bits in the H/X the system would over heat all the time and would not be remedied with belching the air lock out. I believe the system is sucking air as it cools after shut down. Plan is to change all hoses, clamps, check fresh water pump and rebuild or replace as necessary and raise the H/X apx 2 inches to bering it slightly higher then the top bleed valve. Will report back. Please note: this doesn't happen every time I run the engine, all but once the over heating happens after running to proper temp, shut down, restart, over heats, bleed, and all is good.
  5. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    Sloop, I agree and will report back. As to the impeller, it is bronze so I tend to think not bits of it....sure hope the bronze impeller is not coming apart. As I ran a pressure test on the fresh water side, process was to remove the fill cap and replace it with the pressurizer, pump up to stated psi (can't recall what that was) leave pressurize for an hour and check for pressure drop. It held pressure. As Zonkers said and I tend to agree, air leak during cool down. Now to find it. I will report back.
  6. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    I would also have suspected that if there is a leak either in the heat exchanger or even the head or head gasket the pressure check of the fresh water side would have failed and there would have been fluid loss, this was NOT the case.
  7. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    If that were the case, bleeding would not fix the issue. If the airlock occurs and I bleed the issue is gone for the duration of the engine run even if run time is hours. Seems more likely the cap or something on the in side to the pump or the pump. Alcarraz, I have this posting on the cruising page too and am getting so good info over their. I thank you but suspect that may not be the issue. I'll post the fix when I work it out.
  8. Malaya

    Over heating Yanmar 3QM30H

    Thank you for the replies. Zonker: Yes I've had the boat for 15 years, this started 2 seasons ago after an inspection of the exchanger and the pump. No issues prior. So I'm going to take a good hard look at the pump rebuild as necessary, impeller is bronze and on last inspection didn't show ware. Belts are good and maintain proper tension. I will check thermostat after as once the system is "burped" all goes well. Crazy Horse: I know the problem is the system is sucking air and causing the pump to cavitate. That is why the system runs fine after "burping" that removes the air lock. The system has an overflow and tank (visible in the photo) the cap is new but as mentioned might not be the correct type, who knew, will check and replace if needed. Salazar: cap and pump, got it. Follow up; As it seems the air is being introduced into the system on the intake side of the pump I am inclined to start there. I hate to take the entire system down in one step as I might introduce more issues before solving the current one. My thought is if the air is entering between the pump and the block, or the block and the thermostat the air wouldn't be sucking into the pump causing the cavitating but would push the air through the engine into the exchanger and that would not be causing the cavitating. Note: yesterday when working on this: Hour 1; when I arrived (engine had been shut down from prior run without air lock) I opened the cap prior to start to check fluid levels. Upon releasing the cap there was a "sucking sound) indicating a slight vacuum. With cap removed, the fluid was down apx 8 oz. 2; I filled to top prior to starting and bleed at the pump only. Engine ran at proper temp in gear at axp 2000 rpm for 30 min and temp never ran over 165 which is normal. 3;After run I wanted to check fluid level, stated to remove cap but the system was under pressure. Time was short so I sealed the cap and will check when next on the boat tomorrow.
  9. My Yanmar 3QM30H is overheating occasionally. The engine is fresh water cooled (after market) and has never been cooled with salt water. The cooling system is as follows: sea water enters vessel via thru hull-sea water strainer-manifold-engine mounted pump with “rubber” impeller-after market heat exchanger-mixing elbow. The salt water side is functioning very well. Fresh water side is a closed system with anti freeze/water as coolant. Heat exchanger is filled with a traditional radiator cap (new), cooled coolant runs to belt driven bronze impeller (bleed valve on body of pump),hose to engine block (front of block), exits block on top, at exit point there is an aftermarket hose and copper tube “loop” with a bleed valve the which is the very top of the system, enters the thermostat housing thus the block, exits the block via Yanmar standard fitting, hose back to top of the heat exchange just below fill cap. What has been happening is the fresh water side will create an air lock and the engine over heats. The fix has been to bleed the air out. This has happened several times but not all the time. A typical scenario: fire up engine in slip–warm up engine and check systems-motor out of slip often motor out of harbor apx 30 min. engine will be 180 to 190 water temperature, shut down system and sail. On return, I generally start engine at the break wall to allow warm up. This is when the overheating will occur; engine will start and run great but instead of running at 180-190 just over heats. I will bleed the system and all is good. I have run a pressure test of the fresh water side and it is good. Checked oil, no water present. Not losing fresh water coolant (bilge is dry). Note: this has happened only one time on the way out??? Engine is not producing any unusual smoke at any time. Heat exchanger is acid cleaned and “rodded” every season. Attached image shows “bleed valves” circled in red.
  10. My Yanmar 3QM30H is overheating occasionally. The engine is fresh water cooled (after market) and has never been cooled with salt water. The cooling system is as follows: sea water enters vessel via thru hull-sea water strainer-manifold-engine mounted pump with “rubber” impeller-after market heat exchanger-mixing elbow. The salt water side is functioning very well. Fresh water side is a closed system with anti freeze/water as coolant. Heat exchanger is filled with a traditional radiator cap (new), cooled coolant runs to belt driven bronze impeller (bleed valve on body of pump),hose to engine block (front of block), exits block on top, at exit point there is an aftermarket hose and copper tube “loop” with a bleed valve the which is the very top of the system, enters the thermostat housing thus the block, exits the block via Yanmar standard fitting, hose back to top of the heat exchange just below fill cap. What has been happening is the fresh water side will create an air lock and the engine over heats. The fix has been to bleed the air out. This has happened several times but not all the time. A typical scenario: fire up engine in slip–warm up engine and check systems-motor out of slip often motor out of harbor apx 30 min. engine will be 180 to 190 water temperature, shut down system and sail. On return, I generally start engine at the break wall to allow warm up. This is when the overheating will occur; engine will start and run great but instead of running at 180-190 just over heats. I will bleed the system and all is good. I have run a pressure test of the fresh water side and it is good. Checked oil, no water present. Not losing fresh water coolant (bilge is dry). Note: this has happened only one time on the way out??? Engine is not producing any unusual smoke at any time. Heat exchanger is acid cleaned and “rodded” every season. Attached image shows “bleed valves” circled in red.
  11. Malaya

    Navtec Norseman Replacement Cones

    I have mine on order now. Word is they are having them made. I report once I receive them.
  12. Malaya

    Navtec Norseman Replacement Cones

    tylaska; I missed your post but I have sent you a PM. I could use 10-12 depending on price, but even a few would help.
  13. Malaya

    Nilsson v3000

    I have a minor oil leak on an older v3000 coming from the top of several of the bolts that seal the gear box. I one in the image happens to be below the the drain fitting from the deck spacer, but I do not believe it is the source. I have checked that fitting and there does not seem to have any oil present. Looking at the diagram of the winch gear box there does not seem to be a way for the crank case oil to find it's way to the top of the these bolts. I would rather not drop the bottom end of the winch which would be necessary to split the gear box, any thoughts? gear box link https://www.dropbox.com/s/ry6ce1vm0rdhi9s/nilssonv3000gearbox.pdf?dl=0
  14. Malaya

    Nilsson v3000

    I have a minor oil leak on an older v3000 coming from the top of several of the bolts that seal the gear box. I one in the image happens to be below the the drain fitting from the deck spacer, but I do not believe it is the source. I have checked that fitting and there does not seem to have any oil present. Looking at the diagram of the winch gear box there does not seem to be a way for the crank case oil to find it's way to the top of the these bolts. I would rather not drop the bottom end of the winch which would be necessary to split the gear box, any thoughts? gear box link https://www.dropbox.com/s/ry6ce1vm0rdhi9s/nilssonv3000gearbox.pdf?dl=0
  15. Malaya

    Navtec Norseman Replacement Cones

    Forever FYI Rigging Only doesn't have that size, but thanks