RImike

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About RImike

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    Newport RI

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  1. RImike

    Connect Low Friction Ring to boom

    They are spliced and whipped to secure the ring. SWL's range from 240 KG (for the smallest RL3.0, (for 7mm line)) to 1500KG (for the largest RL6.1(for 20mm line)).
  2. RImike

    Connect Low Friction Ring to boom

    Is that 24:1? On a 30' shields (22' @ waterline), I made a 8:1 cascade using 3mm SK99 and Antal R10.07's. The only reason I used the R10.07's was because the I used a soft shackle doubled up (to get the low friction ring as close to the bail on the boom as possible) so I can easily de-rig and re-rig the boom.
  3. RImike

    NKE boat speed set to SOG

    You mentioned paddlewheel, do you have an ultrasonic speedo? Are you sure it's the HR processor and not the standard processor? Is it (paddle wheel) physically working? A paddle wheel might not be compatible with the HR Processor unless it was something semi-custom NKE did or very new. Have you verified it works on it's own by disconnecting the cable to the processor, setting a MG as the master? Just remember to set the address back to 0 before you plug back in the processor and then give it an address once the processor has finished booting up. It's been a few months since I logged into a processor HR, what version are you using? There are slight differences in the menu's between V3.7, V3.9 and V4.0 From the Multigraphic, you should be able to adjust the SOG filtering, what version of the Multigraphic do you have? Can you send me the main events log?
  4. RImike

    whats up with West Marine?

    Just wait until you go to a store with someone that actually knows what they are doing and they pull up the old DOS based Intrepid system. The sad thing is that it works so much better than the "modern" system.....
  5. RImike

    whats up with West Marine?

    Aside from the supply chain issues, WM has long been transitioning away from boating products toward products that support the boating lifestyle. Case in point, the Newport (RI) store used to have the entire front right area devoted to sailing hardware. They even had a moth on display for a few years. Then a few years ago, the store renovated and the sailing area which must have been about 1000 square feet was shrunk down in half and filled with clothing. Then the sail area was cut in half again for more clothing, taking up barley 25% of the floor it used to be. I get it, profit margins are triple digits on jackets and such compared to blocks and has a higher volume of sales. Then again, we've seen what happens when a store abandoned it's core product and focuses solely on clothing....
  6. Class 40's don't even have that much structure, even IMOCA's don't. With all that stainless steel foot rests and support brackets, the metal fab guy's T-top business must be slowing down....
  7. RImike

    What’s next for J?

    Well there is a turbo'ed version out there with a taller mast....
  8. Yes, you are correct. The entire hull and keel envelope is part of the mold when laid up and then the keel is inserted into it and then the grid system is put down over it. Other than cutting off the deck and pull it out the top it would need to come out the bottom and then the fiberglass envelope would need to be re-tabbed into place. I wonder if there is concrete in there as well.... Either way it's 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other... Either way a professional yard would be in it about 100 man hours plus they have the proper machinery to move the boat and keel around and handle that. If he's doing it DIY then the time is in years, not hours to complete it. Either way this isn't something that "could buff out"
  9. Provided that the iron is salvageable. If it's nothing but a pile of rust a new keel would need to be made and for that manner might as well use the old fiberglass envelope as a mold for it which adds another significant cost. Either way, costs will far exceed the value which will never be recovered when sold once again.
  10. RImike

    Regatta Page on NKE Multigraphic?

    Yes, I believe it is as you described (I haven't had a moment to test it on the water yet though)
  11. To answer your question about repairing it, you will have to cut off the fiberglass that envelopes the metal. Once the fiberglass is no longer attached to the hull you will then need to drop the keel. Once the keel is dropped you will need to inspect it. The bilge area will then need to be repaired. The iron will need to be cleaned of all rust, and then protected from future rust. The keel will need to be re-installed onto the repaired area and then finally re-fiber glassed to fully envelope the keel (I'm having a brain fart and can't remember if the keel gets installed first and then laminated or if it gets laminated first and then installed). Either way your looking at an insane number of hours to repair it, if I had to guess, it would be in the 80-100 hours all said and done which start to finish including fairing, sanding and bottom paint. Then you have to account for materials and more. Needless to say it very costly to repair properly and even free is to much. Therefore as you stated, don't buy it.
  12. RImike

    Faster Turnbuckle Adjustment

    @jackolantern With the ability to control the infill percentage, you can make 3D prints really strong as well as control the shape of the infill, such as hexagon, squares, and such. For the 2 part piece that calmped onto the TB body, I did 100% infill as it was so small and had a (2) fasteners to secure the halves together. The "wheel" was a trial and error. I first used 20% infill and the "teeth" area around the perimeter would break off. I did a custom infill which came out to being 100% infill in the teeth area and then transition to a 50% infill on the body area and then thick "wall" in the area where it grabbed the adapter. I'll have to dig to see if I can find the STL file. I wanna say I made it on FreeCad but have since transitioned to Fusion360. I have long since sold the boat and I didn't take many pictures of it. This was back when 3D printing was very expensive however I had access to an idle machine used for "education" (used loosely with air quotes because it never was).
  13. RImike

    Faster Turnbuckle Adjustment

    I tried something similar on a Ronstan calibrated TB once. I too used the Craftsman ratcheting wrenches cut of and polished the end so it was nice and smooth. Thankfully the distance between the lowers and uppers allowed the stubby's to cross over each other and I would velcro the ends so they couldn't ensure a caught sheet. I never had a problem with them catching a sheet however they would rust up just by looking at them and I would only get one season out of them so I went with the wheel route.
  14. RImike

    Faster Turnbuckle Adjustment

    I made a 3D printed 6" "wheel" had a cut out so it would would slide over the body and then I could hold the stud with an adjustable and then turn the TB body. It was about 6 inches in diameter and had "teeth" on the outside so I could get a good grip on it. I made a receptacle of sorts that would center it and hold it on the TB body and that lived there.
  15. RImike

    C&C 30 and Farr 280 - What happened

    There was quite an active thread about the C&C 30's demise a year and half ago for inquiring minds: