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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About buchhla

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    Seattle, Wa
  1. Anchor Geekdom

    Sounds good, we can try again in the spring... Hope you have a great non-boating season!
  2. Anchor Geekdom

    Having lived full time for several years on my anchor, unless the price difference is extremely drastic, saving money on your anchor is penny wise and pound foolish as our friends across the pond say. There is no perfect anchor, but getting the one that performs the best in the conditions you intend to use it on makes sense if you want to sleep well at night.
  3. Anchor Geekdom

    I still have a 20kg (I think) authentic delta down in Seattle if you are ever down this way. I don't think I am going to be up north in the near future for a drop off though... Then again, racing will be done soon, so maybe me and the wife will road trip up to the peninsula too... As an aside, and I don't think there is a good way to test this here, but the only time we ever had problems with our old Rocna dragging while cruising from the PNW to New Zealand was in a bay in Fiji. The bottom was sand mud mixture, and it was relatively shallow for that part of the world. (ie 20 ft) We would get some storms that would come up that would kicj up a pretty awesome square wave chop in there, say say 5-8 feet on average with peaks greater than that. Evan at 5:1 scope, which was the max we could really let out due to space, we drug a few times in conditions like that. A similar boat to our own with a similar anchor setup also drug under similar conditions. Out of the 2.5 years we were out, that was really the only place we ever had any issues at all, and we had theories as to why, but no conclusive proof...
  4. We bought our current boat in North Carolina, and paid no sales tax there. It was then shipped to Washington state, so paid the taxes here, but if you keep the boat registered in NC, that maybe a good deal. Never registered the boat there though, so they may bite you on the back end...
  5. Anchor Geekdom

    I have a 20KG Lewmar delta on my boat down in Seattle you would be welcome to borrow for a test... I would love to see a Rocna vs Manson test as well. We had a 20KG Rocna on our 35' boat while we cruised from Seattle to NZ and were very happy with it. I have lots of anecdotal evidence of where we had problems, though of of those cases would be hard to recreate. Your abrupt direction change with force is a good test though as one of the times we had an issue was when we were anchored with about 4.x:1 in about 75' of water with a nice normal 10-15 kt trades predicted a unpredicted storm came though and blew 55+ for a few hours about 120 degrees different than what was predicted. So gentle direction change due to a wind shift or current is not the only use case...
  6. Round The County 2015

    Here is a very hasilty edited video I took from Smoke. We hit 26.4 on saturday! What a great weekend!
  7. I had Lopo's as a tricolor and a combined bow and stern light. All were the original models with the screw terminals inside the housing and all failed, 2 of 3 in the 5 years, the other just out. Again, excellent support via Lopo and they shipped new lights to me as the failed, as they didn't all fail at the same time. I received newer models with the potted pig tails, and the bow light was failing a few years later (some rows not illuminating, but not total failure). I sold the boat before I dealt with that one. I did replace the tricolor/anchor with the Hella marina unit when it failed and sold the replacement Lopo as I don't trust their longevity. The Hella weighed less, and was brighter than the lopo, but I only had it for 2 years before I sold the boat. We were offshore cruising for 3.5 years though, so these all saw lots of water and service. LED's are advancing fast enough I just put some bulbs in my existing aqua signal enclosure for now while the boat is more sedentary and will get something fancier before we head out again...
  8. Bye Bye to AGM

    Sounds like you are good, but I did have a good experience with AA Solar outside of Auckland when we were there. We ended up with a 300Ah LiFePO4 set, but we only have the boat for 2 years after installing them, so I will be curious to see how they continue to work for the new owner. I did read a really interesting article about long term life of these cells from an early adopter on an RV, who had much less luck than he was hoping for... http://www.technomadia.com/2015/02/living-the-lithium-lifestyle-3-5-year-lithium-rv-battery-update/ We are soon to be living aboard, but at the dock for a few years, so just ended up with 6V flooded cells, but will probably try something higer tech before we leave again... Good luck with the new batteries. If nothing else, having T-105 sized batteries does make replacement in the future easier, but hopefully that will be many years out!
  9. Radar reflector

    Did you install that on one of your spreaders?
  10. Paris (Kiwi Spirit) calls it quits

    Looking at the top photo from his site, it looks like his main tore just at a spreader patch for the lower spreader when the main has two reefs in. I wonder if the patch was in the wrong spot, and the spreader started to wear a hole in the sail, and then his gybe made it let go??
  11. Single burner stove - Butane? Alcohol?

    We have that two burner Origo on one of the boats I race on. Never had an issue with safety, but it is SLOW for boiling water. It is simpler though not needing to have a propane system on the boat, but when boiling water for 12+ people, it takes forever...
  12. Bye Bye to AGM

    Where are you seeing $39 golf cart batteries? I think you can get some that are under $100 at costco, but I have never seen anything under $50
  13. Bye Bye to AGM

    Sorry, I was incorrect on the float voltages, I did set this up over 2.5 years ago now, and hearing you say that I do remember disabling the float stage on my Tristar-MPPT solar charge controller. I also set it up to use the Bulk and Absorb voltages I got from Sinopoly's tech support when I installed the pack. Sinopoly at the same time said that for a single four cells in series 12V pack that a BMS was NOT required. So maybe what they told me was wrong, I can't say. My personal experience is using the BMS, like you said, as an insurance policy. I disagree that the cell level shut balancing does not work on the BMS I had though. The unit itself shows a LED when shut balancing is turned up and you could feel the resistor get warm when in action. If you look at the charge curves for these batteries, the single cell voltages go high reasonably quickly as they approach 100%, so as long as the charger voltage points are set correctly, I was able to get a cell voltage to go to the shunt level before the entire pack gets to the high voltage level. Maybe my experiences are different because of using a reasonably fast MPPT tracking algorithm in my charge controller which was looking at pack voltage/current more often than a standard shore charger. I think some of this is a red herring as I don't think many people that will spend $2k in batteries is going to use a $150 dumb charger, but I guess that must be the experience you are dealing with. I am surprised that have a 13.something float stage would damaged them, but if that is your experience, I can't deny that...
  14. Bye Bye to AGM

    You don't need any special charging regimin for LiFePO4 batteries. The prismatic cells everyone uses like charge voltages VERY similar to flooded batteries. I think the float voltage they like may be slightly higher, but the company I bought them from did not have any reported issues from people using standard chargers. In my case, I was able to set both the shore side and solar chargers voltage points to exactly what the batteries wanted. I also installed a small simple BMS for them. Again, the company I bought the batteries from didn't say it was required, but I figured it gave me some extra protection and minimal cost. They did say that is you build large packs (mine was just 300Ah 2.6C cells * 4 for a single bank) that a BMS became more necessary. http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/products/HousePower-BMS.html Is the system I used. It both allowed cell balancing in the pack to keep all at the same exact voltage, and also allowed for low and high voltage disconnect and alarms. A complete discharge is something you REALLY want to avoid with these batteries as if you take a pack down to 0%, you could ruin them. There is a lot of information about these in reality because electric car enthusiasts have been using them extensively, as well as the normal off grid use like we use them on boats. Sure the electric cars hammer the packs a little more since they use a much higher C rate that we do on boats. I read an article on electric car blog, which I can't find at the moment that showed actual testing of these packs show better #'s than the specs even say, I think they had put like 10k 80% DOD cycles on a small pack and it was down only like 15% capacity from new. We had 2+ years of full time cruising on them before leaving the boat, and at 2 years, they were indistinguishable from new as far as performance goes. That all being said, I did put a pair of 6V flooded batteries in my new boat. It came with 100% toasted batteries and we will only be sitting at the dock and weekend cruises for the next year or three, so $200 for a set of batteries seemed about right. We will definitely be putting LiFePO4 back in (or something batter maybe) before we head back out full time cruising again though...
  15. Bye Bye to AGM

    I say go cheap flooded gold carts or get the lead out and go LiFePO4. I only had two seasons of full time cruising on my lithiums before I sold the boat, but they were still at 100% or original spec. They had a warranty for 5 or 7 years (can't remember) and expected life was > 5000 cycles at 70% DOD. They were 25% smaller, 25% ligher and you could run them to 70%, even 80% DOD, so you bank is actually much larger that you would calculate for any lead battery staying less than 50% DOD. And they were only about 25% more expensive than AGM's when I bought them. I know some fellow cruisers that went the TPPL (Thin plate, pure lead) route and didn't have great experiances. They were also full time cruisers, and they set was getting tired after about 2.5 years. Like AGM's, they NEED to come to 100% on a regular basis, which is you don't plug in, or have an inordinate amount of renewable energy, you wont have. That being said, we did have a large amount of solar and were 100% full nearly every day, but theoretically we didn't need to as the chemistry in LiFePO4 is much more stable long term.