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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About buchhla

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    Seattle, Wa
  1. Sounds good, we can try again in the spring... Hope you have a great non-boating season!
  2. Having lived full time for several years on my anchor, unless the price difference is extremely drastic, saving money on your anchor is penny wise and pound foolish as our friends across the pond say. There is no perfect anchor, but getting the one that performs the best in the conditions you intend to use it on makes sense if you want to sleep well at night.
  3. I still have a 20kg (I think) authentic delta down in Seattle if you are ever down this way. I don't think I am going to be up north in the near future for a drop off though... Then again, racing will be done soon, so maybe me and the wife will road trip up to the peninsula too... As an aside, and I don't think there is a good way to test this here, but the only time we ever had problems with our old Rocna dragging while cruising from the PNW to New Zealand was in a bay in Fiji. The bottom was sand mud mixture, and it was relatively shallow for that part of the world. (ie 20 ft) We would get some storms that would come up that would kicj up a pretty awesome square wave chop in there, say say 5-8 feet on average with peaks greater than that. Evan at 5:1 scope, which was the max we could really let out due to space, we drug a few times in conditions like that. A similar boat to our own with a similar anchor setup also drug under similar conditions. Out of the 2.5 years we were out, that was really the only place we ever had any issues at all, and we had theories as to why, but no conclusive proof...
  4. We bought our current boat in North Carolina, and paid no sales tax there. It was then shipped to Washington state, so paid the taxes here, but if you keep the boat registered in NC, that maybe a good deal. Never registered the boat there though, so they may bite you on the back end...
  5. I have a 20KG Lewmar delta on my boat down in Seattle you would be welcome to borrow for a test... I would love to see a Rocna vs Manson test as well. We had a 20KG Rocna on our 35' boat while we cruised from Seattle to NZ and were very happy with it. I have lots of anecdotal evidence of where we had problems, though of of those cases would be hard to recreate. Your abrupt direction change with force is a good test though as one of the times we had an issue was when we were anchored with about 4.x:1 in about 75' of water with a nice normal 10-15 kt trades predicted a unpredicted storm came though and blew 55+ for a few hours about 120 degrees different than what was predicted. So gentle direction change due to a wind shift or current is not the only use case...
  6. Here is a very hasilty edited video I took from Smoke. We hit 26.4 on saturday! What a great weekend!
  7. Because iRegatta will at least track real world data for your boat. If you actually track your sail configuration, you can generate prety accurate polars for various conditions and configurations. iPolar really just guesses using boat design averages. It doesn't know anything about your boat, keel, rudder, wetted surface, primatic coeffecient etc, so like Roluer said, it is really just making a lot os assumptions based on a insuffecient amount of data and making a pretty graph.
  8. Also make sure you look at all the pump specs, as there are both different volumes and different pressures. 5GPM is the volume and 55PSI would be the pressure. A lot of older/smaller pumps are only designed for low pressure use, so fine for a small faucet, but will not give you the good shower your wife is looking for.
  9. This sounds like fun, if my new ride is not in town yet for the regatta that weekend, we may bring the house over, we need to get her away from the dock after months of refitting!
  10. For those in the greater Seattle area, they have the whole line on display at Fisheries Supply back in the sailing department. They look pretty cool in person, but I do see more 'plastic' on them than the usual Harkens/Lewmars. Then again, the newer winches by the same brands seem to have more plastic in them as well, so who knows... Sadly the display doesn't really have anyway of loading a line, so you can see anything other than the first two gears in action...
  11. My point is that Lithium-Ion batterys are not an inherently stable chemistry. Read all the articles about exploding iphones and the issues boeing had with the 787. They have the best energy density of mainstream batteries, but really need to be handled with gloves on to be safe, and honestly I am not sure if I would put them on a boat... LiFePO4 are slightly lower energy density, but are a much more stable chemistry. I have seen ones that have been abused in testing or electrical vehicles where the cases were melted, but that was it, and I know at least one manufacturer shot one with a gun and it didn't start fire. As for the whole temperature affects on them, I have only read that one article, and like Maine Sail says, the manufacturers are VERY cagey about this kind of information. My old pack did spend two years in the south pacific and seemed healthy when I sold the boat, so my limited personal experiance doesn't bear that out, but I never had temps over say 90 in the boat, and I think the guy i the RV was in the southwest and his batteries were near his engine compartment, so I could easily see temps MUCH higher there. And as to the list of batteries from Chucky, don't forget good old deep cycle wet cells. They can be equalized to somewhat reduce sulphation if abused, are the cheapest of the bunch by far and all of the lead batteries have pretty similar energy density. You do have to watch them and water them occasionally, but if your chargers are working correctly, that doesn't need to be that often. They are also available everywhere in the world, so when a batter fails and you are in Tonga, you can actually find one
  12. Just to be clear, we are NOT talking Lithium-Ion batteries here but rather LiFePO4 (or some very similar chemistries that all add yttrium) They both have Lithium in them, but the overall battery chemistries, energy density, and more importantly safety factors are quite different.
  13. I redid the ice-box on my old boat with Cryogel. It is messy to install (white powder everywhere when you cut/handle it), but iw works as advertised. Aerogel/Cryogel us hydrophobic, so does not like water. my box was water tight, so I have no idea what would happen if it got wet, but it was working as well 5 years later in the south pacific as it was the day I installed it. It is a little heavier than Extruded Polystyrene, but is significantly thinner for the same R value. The Cryogel is basically the same, but has a foil (can't remember if it was metal or Mylar) vapor barrier attached to the insulation. Don't use Polyisocyanurate insualtion for this. It has a slightly higher R-Value, but is hydrophilic and will suck in moisture, and when wet offers little insualtion at all. Sadly someone used this when they redid the ice box on my new boat, so I get to have this fun again. I may actually go a combination of Vacuum panels and Aerogel this time... Here are some photos of what I did on the last boat... http://lbuchholz.smugmug.com/Sailing/Piko-My-Boat/Upgrades-Reefer-Madness/
  14. I agree, that seems really high as far as voltage goes. I have a 300Ah LiFEPO4 on my last boat for a few years before I sold it, but at the end of 2 years installed, it still had pretty close to it's initial capacity. I am pretty sure I have the voltages for all my charge sources (well at least my solar and my alternator as I was unplugged most of the time) set at about 13.9, with the float disabled on all of them. My 220V shore charger, which was only a small 20A one for keeping the batteries topped off while at dock wasn't programmable, but I used the GEL setting which was 14.0 V, but still had a float turned on, so that wasn't perfect, but was close. One article I have read as per 'lithium' batteries since I have been back was here: http://www.technomadia.com/2015/02/living-the-lithium-lifestyle-3-5-year-lithium-rv-battery-update/ This is someone with a similar system, but in a RV setting, but has had poor luck with the cycle life and has been told that the LiFePO4 batteries really don't like high temps very much. Now I think his situation is a little worse than a boat since we are a big floating heat sink, and in my care the batteries were NOT in the engine compartment, but that is interesting none-the-less. Our current boat, which is being used as a live-aboard (well soon, we are not moved in yet) is just using 6V deep cycles. I will probably install something higher-tech before we set out for cruising again, but that is not for a few years so it didn't make sense to buy fancy batteries while primarily sitting at the dock...
  15. I had Lopo's as a tricolor and a combined bow and stern light. All were the original models with the screw terminals inside the housing and all failed, 2 of 3 in the 5 years, the other just out. Again, excellent support via Lopo and they shipped new lights to me as the failed, as they didn't all fail at the same time. I received newer models with the potted pig tails, and the bow light was failing a few years later (some rows not illuminating, but not total failure). I sold the boat before I dealt with that one. I did replace the tricolor/anchor with the Hella marina unit when it failed and sold the replacement Lopo as I don't trust their longevity. The Hella weighed less, and was brighter than the lopo, but I only had it for 2 years before I sold the boat. We were offshore cruising for 3.5 years though, so these all saw lots of water and service. LED's are advancing fast enough I just put some bulbs in my existing aqua signal enclosure for now while the boat is more sedentary and will get something fancier before we head out again...