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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Cats Rule

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About Cats Rule

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    Anarchist
  • Birthday 02/23/1993

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    sailorandy@hotmail.co.uk
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  • Location
    Southampton, UK.
  • Interests
    Sailing, designing stuff

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  1. Keep and eye on that pad eye as I've seen one of them snap on the end of a jpk 1080's prodder. one solution is to change to having a low friction ring. Attached to the end of the bobstay passing through the end sprit
  2. Spinnaker cloth Airx v Superkote

    For shorthanded superkote is a nice choice as she is a bit more forgiving than Airx. Regarding cloth weight I do a bit with the French who generally speck their kites a bit heavier than uk/us as the amount of shorthanded and coastal/offshore they do and it's seems to be to very little or no loss, so I wouldnt be afraid to go up to sk75 if you want to get a bit more a durable sail.
  3. Mainsail cloth choice

    It will probably be Flex black (technora). See what the prices are in Hydra and Flex Ultra as they will be more hard wearing. If your more racy go flex black or ultra, or chilled go ultra or hydra
  4. Seascape 24 in the works

    The stock sails aren't too bad from my experience here in the UK, a year on and with a lot of use they still are holding a good shape and doing the job. The jib is big and a smaller jib is deffo needed for when the breeze is up but it's a lot down to how you the sail the bus. For upwind it is critical that you don't oversheet the jib, with the tracks on the roof the sheet angle is quite tight so when the breeze is up it's critical to drop the car a back and sail with the sheet eased an inch or two to open the leech on the jib. Also with no back stay jib halyard really needs a good amount to get the draft forward as the breeze builds. With the main, cunno is your best friend, pile her on really hard. Kicker hard as-well but sometimes she needs a crack to open the leech up more. She goes well upwind on her own but with any performance hull the more you work her the better she goes. Shes short so don't let her get sluggish keep her on her feet, plenty of ease and squeeze on the main to keep speed and height and she fly's. We've beaten plenty of bigger and faster guys around the track here especially when you give her your all, she just loves it. Weapon of a boat.
  5. Seascape 18

    If you speak to the UK distributor, Pete Wanstall, he should be able to give you IRC and ORC rating info. I have the IRC rating somewhere, Ill see if i can find it.
  6. Mainsail cloth choice

    Flex has been around for a while, contender sailcloth do their own version as-well which is Maxx. They are good for high aspect applications, classic example of where these cloths have come from is A-class cats with very high aspect sails and very vertical loads. For these high aspect applications they are a good choice, but they don't work for low aspect sails (e.g Roller furler genoa.) DCX is a good cloth if your too low aspect to make flex work. Don't compare prices too much against an old quote as prices have gone up quite a lot in the past 12 months.
  7. Mainsail cloth choice

    What boat? As under approx 35/37ft DP Pro Radial can be a better choice than Hydranet. As Hydranet is a mix of woven spectra and poly it can stretch in weird ways on small boats and thus a total poly sail can actually perform better. But if you are big enough Hydranet Radial is great. Worth going radial unless you are a pretty high aspect sail as that will do a lot for your shape stability over time. If you want serious flatness and longevity splash out on 3di....
  8. Seamstick

    Been happening for ages. Less so now than used to be as lifespans haven't been as hoped but still done quite a lot in dinghy and olympic classes where the sails have a shorter life.
  9. Harken 57mm or 75mm ratchet block?

    Echo that! It may be marketed differently in the UK, but whatever it is, I intend to find its equivalent. Regarding ability, I ain't no Spartan hero... ...but I can't plead disability either. Just a bit gutless. In a 20 knot breeze I found the original 4:1 10mm mainsheet very arduous. Just old age. But I can see the upgrade to a 12mm 6:1, was a mistake. What is the boat??
  10. IRC Europeans and Commodores cup merged for 2018

    Reading the original article its not clear what the band is. It mentions 1.00 to 1.27 as the most popular rating band. All a bit flaky. By combining the CC and the euros and putting a tighter limit on cat 3 sailors for CC that puts another nail in the CC's coffin. Reading the original article its not clear what the band is. It mentions 1.00 to 1.27 as the most popular rating band. All a bit flaky. By combining the CC and the euros and putting a tighter limit on cat 3 sailors for CC that puts another nail in the CC's coffin.
  11. North American Sun Fast 3200s

    Great boat, but you have to buy into the French way of sailing them to make them really shine. Short term look at the new mainsheet set-up the latest boats have, they have re-jigged the cockpit and its a big improvement. Daniel Andrieu the designer has done a lot of mods to his 'old' boat as the test platform before they brought out the new ones. Long term ditch the furler and go for a hanked on AP code 2 and code 3, and possibly a reef in the code 3 depending on what you are planning on doing. The ability to have horizontal battens is a huge benefit, furling jibs never quite work as-well
  12. Changing Gears (Point mode, foot mode, vmg)

    As I said before: that's what they say. When we tried it, we surely could see the camber move aft, but the whole rig also felt kind of sloppy and loose. We didn't point any higher or sailed any faster, just heeled more. Then again, the J/70 jib has a whole bunch of problems if its own... Exactly, they are only basic rules. But are a good place to start from. Thing is though one change often requires change from all the other controls. J70's a boats with vertical jib battens often take on some weird shapes in their jibs when you are messing around with the rig controls, due to the extra roach and the shaping needed to support that.
  13. Changing Gears (Point mode, foot mode, vmg)

    More forestay tension = draft aft on jib Less Forestay tension = draft forward on jib More jib halyard = draft forward on jib Less jib halyard =draft aft on jib Draft forward = Less point, easier to sail to (bigger groove) Draft aft = more point, harder to sail to (smaller groove) Breezy upwind flat water example, tight forestay to keep draft aft and you can still apply plenty of halyard to bring open the leech and flatten the jib without bring the draft too far forward. To drop into more power, less headstay tension will bring draft forward and power sail up. These are only very very basics to start from, every boat is different!
  14. Boots

    Le Chameau or Aigle real rubbers with neoprene insides. Warm, durable and cheap if you get the fisherman's version and then get some guy cotton gaiters. If you go to the wet end of the boat get gaiters, wet socks ain't fun.
  15. Code zero furler

    Karver, pro-furl, facnor, bartells are all good, at a few different price points across that lots but they all do the job, there a other brands out there as-well that make good quality stuff. Selden furlers can be problematic, cheaper than most other but also a lot more flimsy and need more looking after, they are generally not worth the hassle. What sqm is the sail? Can work out the approx tack loading a furlers available.