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    Lounging on the beach with some Cold Ones
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    Rugby, Rallye Driving, Being a Guest Chef @ the Pub. The Usual.

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    Ranger 33

    Had one for many years, loved it. They're one of Latitude 38's favorites. Anyway, on many/most of them, there's no support under the heel of the compression post, so over time it gets pushed downwards a bit. But you should be able to fit some blocking underneath of it, in between the post & the keel. On any boat of that age, check the spreaders for rot, & deal with it appropriatedly. ASAP They need larger cockpit drains. Preferably a 2nd larger set which drain through the stern, or stern counter. And you may wish to rethink the plumbing on the stock ones, or at least take apart all of the metal fittings in them & do a good inspection, replacing bits as necessary. As on my boat all that was there were ancient garden hose type gate valves. Much as were found on all of the other through hulls. And none of them had backing pads or seacocks. Just mushroom barbs with gate valves. Adding outboard helm seats on the cockpit coamings is a nice touch too. That way your backside isn't parked on a 3/4" wide piece of teak, but a flat platform attached there to instead.

    Heavy #1 vs #2

    Heavy #1 same size as other #1's, but flatter cut, & heavier cloth. A #2 is a bit smaller, flat cut, & often made of dacron due to the beating it takes when tacking in a breeze, thanks to it's overlap of the shrouds. One feature common in many of them is to have a slightly elevated tack & clew as compared to say a #1. So that when the bow submarines, or a solid greenie combs the deck, the sail doesn't catch the full force of the water. Otherwise it'd be much more prone to tearing/blowouts. As to whether or not you incorporate this feature depends on the wave conditions where you sail when it's #2 weather. And how much your bow does or doesn't get swept by big waves. Since every boat has certain sets of conditions where she'll regularly porpise through waves as long as you're going upwind, & the conditions don't change.

    Replacing standing rigging w/ boat in water

    On boats 30' & under, or that are very light, first do a righting moment calculation to ensure that your being at the masthead won't cause her to capsize. I'd second pulling the rig though. You always find a few things that need fixing, plus a few more in need of some TLC. And it gives you the chance to add an extra run of electrical wire for projects to be added later on.

    Sourcing Boat Nails

    Try here https://shop.woodenboatchandlery.org/ along with the Wooden Boat School in Port Townsend, WA. There's also a great foundry there. And the E. Coast has many similar institutions, particularly in New England. Venture over to the Wooden Boat Forums too, & peruse the classifieds in the back of Wooden Boat magazine.
  5. So long as you think through building them in your head first, you'll be better off building new ones. The amount of time spent going either route isn't going to be much different. But the end results will be. And you'll likely not be repatching new lids in 2 years, as you would if you repair the current ones.

    Jesus shackle

    It's pretty common to add a skid plate made of one material or another to help with abrasion just below the hounds. Be it kevlar, e-glass, or even stainless.

    Jesus shackle

    There's a fair bit of info on this specific topic, & related ones here --> And here -->

    Blue water cruising books

    The Dashew's book set/publications are excellent, & free, at www.SetSail.com/free-books I'd suggest reading them all, though it's a huge amount to digest. Beth Leonard & Evans Starzinger's books & articles are similarly good. Sadly their website is no more. There's a huge amount of info available online, both in blogs, & websites. Such as www.Cruisersforum.com And once you start perusing Amazon, along with adding things to your favorites/wish list, it'll generate a lot of recommendations for you. Though you're likely better off to visit a good nautical book store, so that you can get a real feel for whether or not a certain pub. is a good fit for you, & worth the coin. Most mid-sized or larger seaports have several worth visiting, including used gear chandleries. Also, the more you sail, especially with other people, the more stuff will be recommended or given to you. You can post adds offering to take old sailing magazine collections off of peoples hands, or to buy their whole book collections at a bulk price. Which, you often see the latter on CruisersForum's classifieds pages, & sometimes in Latitude 38 (online).

    Mustang Survival

    What Canadian products was it that you were after? And FYI, there are much better water survival options available than the old style neoprene gumby suits.

    Non-electric dehumidifier for boat on mooring ball

    I'd second this, along with adding a couple of cowl vents sans dorade boxes. Just remove the vents & insert the deck plates when it's time to go saiing. For small spaces cat litter sometimes works, & certain types of it can be recharged by drying it out such as in an oven. The same is true of silica dessicant, but I doubt that it's up for keeping up with the volume of moisture on a boat that comes from sea air. Good insulation is a biggie too. As the less temp change there is, & the more gentle (slow) it is, the less condensation & moisture you'll have. And clean as much of the salt off of everything onboard as possible, especially sails & lines. Since it's a huge moisture attractor & retainer.

    Yanmar diesel on Tartan 34, stops running

    When testing it at the dock, whether you think you have the problem fixed or not, do so with the prop in gear, so that there's actual load on the engine. Otherwise you're a lot less likely to see the problem when in the slip vs. at sea. That said, another possibility is that the heat from underway operation builds up enough after 40 min. to cause something to expand enough to let air into the fuel system, or catalyze some other malady which is causing it to shut down. Some fuel pumps will have this happen when they get hot. They just don't supply enough fuel once they hit a certain operating temp. Happened to a girlfriend's car at one point, & was giving me diagnostic fits. So take note of both ambient air temps & engine room temps when it happens, & when testing. Including mounting a remote temp sensor in the engine room, possibly connected to a monitoring & recording setup. And I don't know how much they cost, but you could similarly remote monitor & log the fuel pressure in various locations over time, as well as versus temp. That'll categorically tell you if there's a leak. You'd be well served to go through a schematic of the engine, & trace the entire fuel system. As sometimes there's a filter or pump somewhere along the line that's either ancient, & forgotten, or installed by a previous owner, etc. And it could be the cause of things. Since some guys go nuts adding extra filters, & redundant self-primiing/bleeding fuel pumps & the like.

    TWA or AWA

    Helmsmen can watch for consistent or oscillating shifts using TWA, unless you have someone else tracking this stuff. Some of what you have displayed also depends on the boat, the naviguesser, helmsman, & trimmers. As what info these folks see, need, or desire, depends upon who's tasked with what, & how they interact with one another. And helmsmen at different levels need different info, & more or less coaching by trimmers & wind callers on the weather rail. Since it's easy to overload neophytes or intermediate level drivers with TMI, causing them to actually steer more poorly.

    Henri Lloyd Offshore Elite 2.0

    Guys, telling us how brand X fit you is fairly useless unless you include such info as your; height, weight, build type, inseam, shirt sleeve length, etc. Along with what layers you wear/wore the foulies overtop of. Kinda' common sense, but then as Thomas Paine said "Common sense is not so common".
  14. Graucho Marx, in the immortal words of Spinal Tap (the film) "This one goes to 11" - meanng that purdy lil' boat of yours. Must be a FUN ride!
  15. From what I understand, the lower aspect ratio spars tend to fare better when conditions are unruly, like say 2:1. I'm not sure if Gold Coast still builds theirs this way, but way back, like a couple of decades ago I recall reading about their masts doing pretty well. But I no longer have those issues of Multihull magazine around, sadly. Perhaps i should get in contact with Gold Coast & ask. The catch to some of this is that generally the mast comes with the boat, so you've little choice in how much sail area it has, or it's aspect ratio. Well, unless you want to build a new one. Which, depending on the mast's design, could be quite the project.