Feisty!

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About Feisty!

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  • Location
    Colorado!!
  • Interests
    Water... liquid or frozen

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  1. Feisty!

    Keel Bolt Questions

    This technique is about sealing leakage. As an inspection technique, it would behoove one to pay close attention to what the cuttings look like. If they're just dry wood or resin, this might work quite nicely. The depression in the wood from the original washer could be filled and a larger load spreader plate installed. If they're WET wood, you might have a serious problem. The wood may have become saturated and spongy. If there's a lot of rust, then the bolt still must be inspected. Gougeon doesn't speak to depth of cut. My guess is to drill until the cuttings are clean and dry.
  2. Feisty!

    Keel Bolt Questions

    My impression is that most keelbolts are oversized, when new, for the loads they encounter and are in fact sized to survive their environment long enough that something else fails first. Torques specs are generally intended for metal stackups and the application of a preload (elastic elongation) to the bolt such that it will never encounter a greater load in service. Torquing large keel bolts on a wooden boat to a torque table value scares the livin' shit outa me for fear of crushing the wooden layup. My gut feeling, assuming that someone with real experience cannot be found, is to tighten to snug plus a little and keep an eye on the smile. Yeah, that's pretty vague, but crushed wood has very little strength.
  3. Feisty!

    Vakaros Atlas vs Racegeek D10

    Beware ! Sail22 confirmed my order in December for $999, never delivered, and now says the price is $1425. An interesting way to do business ...
  4. Feisty!

    Severe Hull Damage

    It's kinda subtle, but I think I see a large transverse "wrinkle" in the bottom aft of the skeg that certainly was not in the original mold and might indicate a structural issue ...
  5. Feisty!

    Outboard Engine Propeller Guards?

    I think that all they protect is the propeller, particularly when the engine is not on the transom. If you suck something in and it doesn't just get blended, it's gonna be a bitch getting it unfouled.
  6. Feisty!

    Jib/genoa sheet problems

    What boat are you using ? On my 20' keelboat, the jib sheets lead inside the lower shrouds and the genoa sheets outside.
  7. Feisty!

    Low profile deck/steaming light?

    Go with the low profile steaming light and separate deck lights under the spreaders ...
  8. Feisty!

    Sad, waterlogged Holder 12 monohull

    Most trailers for very small boats aren't heavy enough to get into their suspension much and will just hammer the boats to death ...
  9. Feisty!

    Slack leeward shrouds

    The upper shrouds, from the spreaders up, form a triangle, which is geometrically rigid; from the spreaders down, they form a rectangle, which is not.
  10. Feisty!

    Slack leeward shrouds

    I keep hearing that, but it assumes that the spreaders are centered to start with or that the mast is straight when no tension on shrouds. If subsequent tweaking of lowers moves spreaders laterally, the masthead will go with it. I center the hounds with the lowers then straighten the mast with the uppers ...
  11. Feisty!

    Sad, waterlogged Holder 12 monohull

    What makes you think that it is waterlogged ? Can you hear sloshing ? Small dinghies can be weighed by balancing them on a bathroom scale. My guess is that there are no bulkheads or keel structure in there. The deck molding is probably bonded to the hull molding all around the gunwale, at the bottom of the cockpit and at the bottom of the mast socket. I'd install inspection ports, large enough to get an arm through, in areas where I could reach most of the between-molding volumes. Where to go from there depends on what is inside for flotation and what condition it is in. Lasers use collapsible water containers filled with air and capped off to provide class-legal internal flotation.
  12. Feisty!

    Slack leeward shrouds

    Why uppers first ?
  13. Feisty!

    Vakaros Atlas vs Racegeek D10

    Does anyone actually have either of these ? What do you think of it ?
  14. Feisty!

    Rusty stainless

    "Stainless steel" is an alloy (mixture) of iron, nickel and a small assortment of other stuff. Iron rusts, nickel does not. It ACTS stainless when it has been treated (passivated) to etch the iron molecules off the surface leaving the nickel. When you work the surface you expose more iron or install iron from the tool. True passivation can be done by "cooking" the polished and degreased parts for a couple of hours in a 140 degree (Fahrenheit) 4% (by weight) citric acid bath. Citric acid can be had from the canning section of your local grocery store. This, of course, assumes that you can get whatever you're passivating into the vat. If not, you've got to resort to the various approximations mentioned previously and repeat as necessary ...
  15. Feisty!

    Installing attachment point on masthead crane

    Drill a hole in the center web thru one of the large lightening holes as far outboard as you can to clear the lines on the sheave . Install shackle or long shackle straddling the web and dead end the 1:2 to it.