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About magnum

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  1. magnum

    VOR Leg 11 Gothenburg to The Hague

    actual winddata from buoy's along the coast further!/kaart/wind/
  2. magnum

    newbie bowman tips

    So to wrap things up we have Leeward drop Hatch (light to mid conditons) - 1 guy down the the leech 1 guy down the foot - clew to clew downd the hatch and then the rest. - couple of feet up the leech than across and run for the end of the boat Boom (always possible) - over the boom down the main hatch. Windward drop any different? Hatch - see leeward Boom - no go
  3. magnum

    newbie bowman tips

    Last wednesday eveneming regatta was the try out for some of the the SA Newbie Bowman advice on the boat. Here is a small report: Conditions 22-27knots with gusts. Most wind in the series so far. Crew of only 5. Here are the SA newbie bomwan tips & advice I applied and how it worked out: Attached spi sheet and guy shackle each seperately to clew Normally I attached guy to sheet shakle but turned to attach it seperatly to the clew. Indeed the sheet shackle did fail! but we kept controll with the guy still attached. This saved us from a blown away kite (we saw it happen on several boats) and we went from very last (1 min late at the start but that's another story) to 2nd. Left the topping lift attached to the pole end Again this came in handy and worked very well at the down mark. We dropped the spi late -but in time- at the mark. Final bit of the (guy)clew was eased to quick and landed in the water so I got behind to get A. the spi back in the hatch and B. get hatch closed! before we where on the beat again hitting the waves. At the mark I still needed to get the last couple of feet in. The skipper wanted to tack directly at the mark between the bouy and the boat in Nr. 1 position. So skipper screemed "BOW READY TO TACK??!!!". since I got the pole lowered without moving position to the front end of the boat and keep on going with the spi I was READY, stayed above the hatch during the tack diving for the slamming jib and we rounded like a laser and so close I could touch it. All the time I didn't have to worry about the topping lift. I knew it was no problemos with everything clear to tack with the topping attached to the end of the spi pole. Before the very first wave hit us and the kite was in the hatch and got lines released, jib cleared and off we where. Now in the front row. ----Reason I am posting this is to let you guys know how in real life someone uses the tons of free advice given. Advice that: A. Is scattered over various postings with ad ons by several people. So you have to check "do I really understand what's been said here". B, you have to digest it in a relative small portion of time and ask follow up questions before the subject dies out. C. More often thant not 180 degrees different opnions on the same item are given. Makes that you reakkt need to understand the whole thing to make judgement for your situation. D. don't be afraid to get yelled at asking the obvious. Like the "peel" story where I tought I got it untill someone asked again and by the answer I figured out I still did not quite get the crossing halyard thing. It's perhaps more difficult getting it but it result in turbo style learning curve. At least for me. ----- NEW Q : When do you drop the kite in the front hatch and when over the boom down the main hatch?? and is there a trick to get the kite in as quick as possible. where do you start from from the bottum up or first get a couple of feet of the leeach in? then go across and put one arm around it and go to the end of the boat.
  4. magnum

    newbie bowman tips

    SEP, Anonymus, etc. Great :D to make such gains sitting behind my laptop getting advise on an item wich otherwise could cost me monts/years to figure out ourselves. If ever .... This sounds like a power time saver on every gybe (topping lift can no longer work as a slide for the sheet right into the problem zone. (see my previous postings & pics) + at rounding the mark gets me many seconds earlier on the rail by simply worry about the topping lift later. In fact if the sheets (even in a neat way wich was my original question) would be in front of the topping lift you still can get into trouble at the mark if the sheets get of the pole pole and slide from it and get underneath it and stuck between the pole and the deck! This seems to prevent all this from happening. .... thinking about the the manouvers and lines and on the boat fits the discription perfect. Makes me wonder why the obvious did not come to mind to the skipper and the rest of the experieced crew... ?? A minor item left to fine tune is at the moment to unfurl. As forestay and topping lift depart from the mast in such a small angle, on a course where the boom is close to the foresaty the topping lift can sometimes be grabbed by the leach of the jib when unfurled and is sometimes fureld around the foreastay. Any suggestions here? I still have tonnes of ?? No problem ??
  5. magnum

    newbie bowman tips

    Pics and Diagrams are great, but if you're gonna have success on the pointy end you have got to be able to visualize ALL manouvers in your head. Close your eyes and see what it's all supposed to look like. Then run the manouver through in your head. Why furling is slower than dropping your jib I don't know, but that just sounds wrong. Especially the fact that furling keeps you off the bow. If you've read anything here you'll know that staying off the front of the boat is a priority. Have your owner look at his furling system and do a little maintanence. In truth with the jib furled I fail to see how the sheets get in the way. Have them deal with them in the cockpit so they don't sag down to the deck, and then just make sure you get the pole under them when plugging in the kite/gybing. So I guess my answer to you is either A or C I will look into the whole furling problems next regatta. The furling systems has an endless line which starts to glide over the drum when applying large force on it. Perhaps to much tension on the backstay on a fairly tight rig increases problems. Perhaps the first top view perspective was not that clear. This more detailed side vieuw pic makes it more clear pic 3. Helpfull to comment?
  6. magnum

    newbie bowman tips

    As newbie bowman I thank you guys for al lot of helpfull tips and advice for a novice bowman. I started last Oktober and the owner, regular crew and me moved this year to an X-36S I have a question: On this X we have a furling jib and and the standard set up with double lines down wind looks something like pic. 1. Double schackle guy attached to sheet. Lazy guy brought forward for quick gybing. Anyone a good suggestion/tip for the following: When trip is being made the pole will bring the lose jib sheet forward and the part between the pole end and the clew ends up in a loop between the end of the pole and clew of the jib. (sort of illustrated in pic 2.) When the pole ends on deck the whole loop mixes up with the pole end. And since the beak closes on a first come first serve basis it's rugular that the jib sheet is in first before I can get the new guy in. What do I do wrong here? pic 1. pic 2. My own idea is: A. instruct the the back enders that before the pole starts to swing someone puts his foot on the jibsheet which could prevent the jib sheet from foulding in the first place. As a newbie bowman I don't want to suggest stupid sollutions that do not work. B. to release the jib sheets completely. This makes gibing easy but how will I bring the jib sheet in front of the the topping lift again. I remove them on the final downwind leg but it's not easy on the first downwind leg. (f.y.i. We keep the topping lift attached going windward). C. skip the whole furling idea and lower the jib on the downwind leg as it takes less time to get it down then furling. The furling system is only so so and takes a while A. B. C.? or any other suggestions or tip of the day p.s. All positings on peeling are very helpfull but could be even more clear with a pic. or drawing