Diamond Jim

I have used West System G/Flex, a rubberized epoxy, for bonding and it does work. www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/650-8-Instruction-v2.pdf RTFM the P/Tex approach works, too. I'd try both before I replaced the tank unless it was really easy to pull the tank.

I recollect an epoxy maker recommending that epoxy used on a potable water tank be mixed slightly hardener-rich so that there would not be un-mated epoxy (BPA) molecules to poison you. Use at your own risk.

How about welding? Practical Sailor reports that it sorta works. www.practical-sailor.com/blog/Repairing-Plastic-Water-or-Holding-Tanks-12520-1.html

You might try posting this on the Woodenboat Forum. http://forum.woodenboat.com/.

In addition to warming the victim during cure, it's good to have your resin & hardener and victim warm ahead of time. It makes dispensing, mixing, saturating, etc. easier. Also remember that epoxy resin that sees cold temps can crystalize which poses other big problems, like it can't be dispensed or mixed accurately. Always store your epoxy in warm conditions, i.e., indoors.

OK, I’ll try to be more specific. I’m undertaking the rewiring of a simple powerboat. The wiring I’m doing will all be 10-14ga.

... for boat wiring.

So the Volvo MD2010 in the Alerion 28 is a what?

If the gap between the deck and the liner is no more than 1/4”, how about shooting some thickened epoxy into the gap and bolting through the whole works?

Thin urethane sheet is available in light colors. A disc bonded to the deck might work.

What are these things called?

I'm going to make a two-step wood companionway ladder. The bottom of the stringers will rest on the cabin sole and the top will lean against a vertical motor box panel. I need some kind of hardware to secure the ladder top to the vertical panel. Suggestions?

Ask the people at Bomar?

The problem is plywood that's not rot-resistant and is less stiff than solid wood. 1/2" slats of a rot-resistant fine-grained wood like western red cedar, alaskan yellow cedar, garapa, etc. would work and would hold up.

The plywood is available and used in other TPI built boats. It's silly expensive so you might seek out a boatyard with half a sheet. 1/2" (12mm) is too thin for the span and in a wet location, but going to 3/4" adds other complications.. When I do mine, I think i'll put a light glass reinforcement to the back side.