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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About CaptainAhab

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  • Location
    South Australia
  • Interests
    Finding the White Whale

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  1. Laser mast step repair

    You have a significant leak. Why would it be coming thru the mast step. The only water going in there is from a capsize. I'm guessing by your comments that you have never seen the inside of a Laser You can pour resin in the mast step. It will do nothing structurally. Regardless if you suck it in there with a vac pump. The biggest problem of all is the water in the hull. It is always surprising to me how long it takes to dry one. After you cut a 2nd inspection port in the bow, then throw a fan over one of them and get the air moving. Very hard to do thru the hull plug and one inspection port. You really need to open her up, dry her out, then wash the laminating area with alcohol(metho) or acetone. Gouvernail can't remember his better posts... Posted August 17, 2007 here is my "I'M Sorry" in advance>>> The leak is always the last place you reseal. so above it says you rebedded everything...great start!! Flip the boat over and look at the seam around the top of the trunk. Cleaning it and adding 5200 all around that joint is never a bad idea. While the boat is over and that 5200 is out, stick it in ANY crack you see ANYWHERE around the gunwale. Also, take off the bailer and remove the brass fitting, clean all around the hole and on the adjacent surfaces and if you are 100% convinced there is absolutely no way the hull and cockpit can move independently caulk the hell out of it and tighten it back in place. ( if the hull and deck move independently...it is access port time) Clean all around the screw hole and reinstall the bailer with way too much caulk..Wait...there is almost no such thing as too much caulk!! remove and reinstall every fitting on the boat that you have not already replaced. Does the bung really seal the drain hole?? The assholes who build Lasers love to change the little plastic bung and sleeve on regular occasion just to fuck all of us by making certain 90% of us cannot lend a spare bung to a friend. Note: I once published an article in the Laser Sailor magazine about the stupidity of the drain plugs and some of the NA officers were so vain they thought the article was about them. If all the checking and caulking on shore fails to seal your boat...as in it still leaks when you sail it... You have a few more simple tests available. 1. see if it leaks when you simply drift around in the water with no mast or waves. That would indicate a problem at the bottom of the trunk to hull joint must exist. 2. Next you can do something that is good for your boathandling and sailing anyway... Put the centerboard in and the rudder on and rock your boat arouind the harbor for a while. See how fast you can make the sailless Laser move. If you cannot go straight upwind against at least ten knots, practice more. If the boat leaks while rocking, the leak must be at the top of the centerboard trunk and only leak when there is pressure on the water inside the trunk. Before you stress test the mast step, consider this. If it breaks loose at the bottom you will seriously damage the boat. If the mast step is leaking it is almost always about to break loose at the bottom and, if it breaks under load it will rip the hell out of your deck. 3. back on shore, where it is easier to control the damages if something breaks, You can also stick the mast inside the socket , rig it, fill the step with mater and block to block and loosen the mainsheet a few times. 4. You may need to go sail the boat in waves and wind to successfully test the mast step. If it still leaks, put it on Craigslist.com as a planter.
  2. Teak Sources

    Ipe is a terrible wood. We've seen failure after failure. Bonding can be next to impossible. Epoxy sometimes like it.
  3. Alcatraz

    Wow. That is some brilliant logic. He could be hacking up Wild Oates for the 5th time and I would still make the same comment. Yes, you have been lucky. Or I guess everyone else who gets hurt is unlucky. Forget I posted. Until you have seen, been hurt, or have hurt someone. Then you can learn the lesson and teach it to every other person you work with in the future. Two of my friends are missing fingers. One is missing half his forearm and hand. These guys are all craftsman. I guess they were unlucky.
  4. Alcatraz

    My 1st boss had this saying: "We have 2 rules with power tools. No drinking & no holding hands". I figure I've saved a few people's limbs over the years repeating it to people doing stupid shite with tools. The point is if you can do something by yourself. Do it by yourself. The chance you will hurt the other person or yourself goes up exponentially when using tools in close proximity. Watching one person holding onto a board with another guy pushing a circular saw towards them makes me feel ill and angry at the same time. You've got one of the dumbest photos of all time.
  5. I'm making a rudder

    After all this back and forth, I still think the West Epoxy guys had it right. Western red cedar core. epoxy/high density filler leading & trailing edges. A couple of layers of uni carbon in a rebate at max camber. Do all those first. Fair it and then laminate in one drape, (1-2)layers of 12oz of biax and (1) layer of 10oz cloth. Cover it with peel ply and squeegee the hell out of it. Yes I'm saying bagging it is a waste of time. The all the load will go to the carbon and the whole thing will blow up is bs. The carbon will simply increase the overall stiffness. The glass and cedar will do their jobs and the world will be finally at peace. Make sure you are drinking a nice beer the entire project when you aren't using power tools. Also belt sanders are for destroying things, not for making things.
  6. "Sailing" v "Yachting"

    You just have to go monk until you are in college teaching the cutest, lightest girl to be your 420 crew. Nothing like having some ass in your face when tacking.
  7. "Sailing" v "Yachting"

    Many of the best Laser sailors in Australia are now coming out the Bic fleets. None of the good AU Laser sailors ever sailed an Opti. Perhaps that's why AU has dominated Laser sailing for a rather long time. Krystal Weir is AU's Olympic Laser chick. She totally backs the Bics. Coutts(AC Jackass) has made it his new mission to promote junior sailing in NZ using the Bic class. I coach both. Pro's and Cons to each. However, Bics get kids in boats and keep them in boats. The learning curve for my Bic kids to move into the Laser 4.7 is almost immediate. The Opti kids are hopeless. It doesn't really matter. The Opti dropout rate is so crazy high that none of them continue to sail. That's in a country like AU where we support the kids by parents, club and country. I wonder if its the boat...
  8. Sharpening twist drills

    I can free hand anything over 3/16 on a grinding wheel. The key is to use the side of the wheel rather than the face. The farther out on the wheel circumference you get the faster it spins, hence more burning. I usually find a sweet spot for my eyes and skill about the middle of the wheel. Its not spinning very fast. The actually face of the wheel is a waste of time. You cook bolts by accident. How the f are you going to sharpen something?
  9. "Sailing" v "Yachting"

    Ever heard of an Open Bic? Opti is a training boat age 6-10. Bics are for 9-15yr olds. Fast fun like a little Laser that's stable and looks like it was built this century. The Opti has killed Junior and Youth sailing. No one except skilled small or anorexic kids sail past 12. No one starts sailing them after 12. The leap from 12 skilled or unskilled to a Laser 4.7 is steep(improbable for most). Opti's effectively open the door at age 8 and shut the door at ages 9,10,11,or 12.
  10. How low can you go? Polyester

    The most important variable in this discussion is the temperature of the resin. Warm up the resin before adding the hardener. Do not add extra hardener thinking its going to make it cure faster. It messes up the final product if you exceed 3%. It shouldn't matter if the substrate is cold. We do this all the time with epoxy resin. Its also a nice trick to make it runny in normal weather.
  11. Fazisi Front Page

    I remember doing a walk on tour of the Fazisi in Newport during the Whitbread layover. She was pretty rough back then. The first thing I noticed was the halyards. They were rusting steel cable with burrs all over them. You would not be getting up if you got hit by one. We aren't talking rope burn.
  12. I'm making a rudder

    There are also huge twisting loads. The 45 degree fibers take all of those. Another load not typically talked about is when the boat is sticking half way over a wave and has to support itself. One of my good friends built a very high end IOR boat in 1982. It was a bit before its time in many regards. Other than the mat(poly resin) to bond the Airex foam, the boat was made entirely of unidirectional S-glass. Bow to stern on the bottom and then at 45 degrees to the waterline. He was a structural engineer back then, then moved on to be the lead composites engineer for one of the major defense contrators.
  13. I'm making a rudder

    I'd be surprised if many people are aware of how far the Gougeon Bros have gone with the wood/epoxy composites and when. My favorite is pages 31 & 32. Lead weights for testing Page 82 serious Boeing style testing http://www.weti.fh-flensburg.de/fileadmin/dokumente/Aktuelle_Meldungen/141216_Hancock_-_Wooden_Blades.pdf I just fond this online. I already knew a bit about the windmill blades. Goegeon had 95% of the US market until the early 90's. This stuff makes our little boats look like toys.
  14. I'm making a rudder

    I am not saying that a hull is a rudder. Simply that it is possible to mix carbon/glass/wood in a very complicated package. In one of the original posts, I gave the link to the Gougeon design for wood composite rudders. They are the ones encouraging the carbon reinforcement. You could use a thick band of uni S-glass instead if it makes you feel better. They do the math & have the experience...
  15. I'm making a rudder

    Perhaps the most experienced people that reinforced wood with composite would be the Gougeon Brothers(West System Epoxy). They have reinforced many projects with carbon, glass, kevlar. The first example that comes to mind is their skiff. They have been building the Swift Solo skiff for 15+ years. They tested many different composite panels. Different skin layups inner and outer. They ended up with S-glass outer skin/cedar strip core/carbon inner skin. I think it would be a fair assumption that a high performance skiff hulls sees more diverse loading than most other composite structures I fully understand the engineering principals of stiffness, Young's Modulus ... They do not take into account the unusual aspects of timber construction. It is a very unique material when bonded to other materials. It is not a metal or fibre which can be so accurately engineered. https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiZpPjMgebXAhUEjpQKHa0pCAQQFgg3MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.single-handedskiffs.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw1noPlQzNIjyLKbTrPdnBMJ They are using the wood as a core. In the same way foam is used. Nothing really magical happening there. Fibreglass structures are often reinforced locally with carbon. So that's not a problem. Fastnet could certainly be caused by improper load sharing. But that was a poor design problem.