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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

CaptainAhab

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About CaptainAhab

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    South Australia
  • Interests
    Finding the White Whale

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658 profile views
  1. Refinishing a very ugly aluminum mast

    He wants What this guy said. With that actual deep corrosion pitting. I would grind it with the narly discs. Remove all the pitting. Like others have said, wipe it and prime it with any decent 2 part epoxy primer. Interlux is available and ok price. Fill those defects with west system epoxy filler sand the whole beast with 240 and paint it with 2 part poly or 1 part if you can't afford it. Do not go cheap on the primer. Avoid your body parts especially all appendages with those grinding discs. As usual no drinking and no holding hands when using power tools.
  2. Kids on a 16 foot skiff

    used 29er's are cheap. The kids can sail it together when its light. Old guy can sail it with one of them when its heavy. Plenty of boat to grow into. 3 people in a skiff is just trouble, if that was what you were asking.
  3. Speed wrinkles?

    Logically you would think that smooth sails are faster than creased sails. This is not always true. Lasers in particular get them from having loose downhaul combined with heavy main/vang loads. It is faster to have wrinkles...
  4. Bowman and start line distance calling issues

    I'm going to print this and have it laminated. I think it could also serve as hand signals for backing up a boat trailer.
  5. Bowman and start line distance calling issues

    If you want your bowman to call the line...get a bigger boat. He has to be far enough away that he has to use hand signals and he can't hear you swearing at him. Otherwise its a complete waste of time. The 24 is more like a dinghy than a big boat. I would really be pissed if some guy was on the bow of my boat. When he should be hiking at max beam, so I don't get dropped after the start. Holding your lane would be impossible with some guy bouncing around on the fore deck.
  6. Out of Control Laser

    Which rig?
  7. Laser rigging upgrades

    I meant the Intensity deck hardware. A new sail would be a step backwards from that piece of kit.
  8. Laser rigging upgrades

    I usually date Lasers by the number of inspection ports. 1 per decade. That's after they are fixed. Sweet sail. It alone could be worth $400 to right crazy person.
  9. Out of Control Laser

    The best way to understand a Laser is on a dolly/trolley. Put the rudder down and play around with the heel & rudder angles. Standing at the stern looking at the bow. It is apparent that due to the crazy rudder angle it becomes a brake with any heel what so ever. This causes the rudder to lose flow when you have either weather helm or you are excessively heeling the boat(literally not flat). In order to reestablish flow you can simply center the tiller for 1 second. Almost instantly you can steer again. In your conditions, your dagger board should be up at least 4-6" Boom parallel to the deck. You need to keep the boat flat in order to keep the boom out of the water. Easing the vang too much can make it unstable. On reaches get in the habit of sheeting out when the rig gets too powered up and then pumping to keep her on on plane. Lasers like to be sailed aggressively on reaches. If you are sailing directly or by the lee downwind you need to balance the boat with the rig. Your body needs to remain stable. By the time you move your body to compensate for heel you will induce speed wobbles and capsize. Ideally you should lean back and use the righting moment of the boat to keep you stable. The righting moment of less stable boats either works for or against you. The choice is yours. The most important part of Laser sailing is vang sheeting. Learning to ease the main, hike the boat flat, sheet in again. This is done chronically upwind. There are many ways to sail Lasers. All the books and videos like to make it all one size fits all. My comments are general not specific. The Laser takes practice to tame for high winds 25 kts constant. They are very fun boats when you figure it out. I encourage Laser sailors to watch this particular video. These are the best guys in the world. Most of them are 6'1" - 6'2" and 83-85kg. Those are considered to be the ideal weight for full rig Laser. They all sail the boat in different manners. Especially downwind.
  10. Laser rigging upgrades

    Do not use the plastic Laser fairleads for anything including the traveler. The traveler ones are a consumable item. Immediately replace them with the alloy ones if you can afford it. The Intensity gear is very good. I've got an old Laser deck rigged with their plate, blocks & cleats. Spend your money on the Harken vang. Keep in mind the loads we put on the gear is higher than it was originally designed. the plastic fair leads do break. The thru bolt the deck stuff is a bit overstated. If there is no problem don't waste your time trying to prevent future damage. If it gets a little wobbly, drill out the holes a bit over sized and screw it back down with self tapers. You never mentioned the age of your ride. If its pre 1990 I would put in an inspection port. Glass the mast step and then you could backing plate the cleat fitting. I really don't think its worth it unless the deck is actually damaged. http://www.intensitysails.com/incuouup.html
  11. J70, cheating and pros

    I was just responding to the dinghy example. The J/70 class was built in response to the J/22 & J/24 madness. The Melges 24 has all those add on parts. The J/70 is true one design competition. The cheating was simply that cheating. I don't see how it could not be seen that way. Reworking a Laser dagger board case or changing the rudder angle is likewise simply cheating. The unfortunate part of the bigger J/70 equation will be how quickly the serious people have to burn thru boats. It's a very new class. The reality is it could be good for people on the next level down who will get good boats for cheap in the next few years.
  12. J70, cheating and pros

    This is why they had to build over 200,000 Lasers. They are disposable. True one design boats offer the best competition, but the boats don't remain competitive. Good turn over for the builder. J-boats figured out that when you can take a 1985 J/24, using a bit of glass & filler to "repair", making her world class competitive. It's way better for the builder to build new boats. Currently there are (3) J/70 builders. CCF(North America), J/Composites(Europe), McConaghy(Pacific). Who makes the fastest?
  13. Experiences with G-flex

    I thought most people used Plexus.
  14. I'm not yelling

    I learned how to sail in a very similar situation. 32ft high end last generation ior that we completely updated then we built a custom 40 footer. The Skipper is one of the best sailors I've ever met. He taught a compete crew of my dinghy racing friends ages 16-17 plus one adult. I only heard him yell once in the 10 years I raced with him. One of the young guys in the first couple of seasons let the guy go in 25 knots and it smashed the 7075 Al forestay track. He thought it was going to snap if it got hit again and drop the rig. Seriously, once in 10 years. The norm was a calm cool collected guy having a conversation with his crew. "Let's pretrim the mainsheet before the gybe, please release the running backstay, we need another inch on the main/jib. Its time to get the pole up, make sure you clip the bag on lifeline." We were all young guys who defied most adults as a matter of principle. He respected our desire to learn, and we respected his experience and teaching ability. He end up being my sailing mentor and best friends. I coach juniors in a learn-to-sail program as well as our racing program. The kids & parents understand that I am loud on the water because its blowing 15-20 knots and I'm in a rib and the kids are in little dinghy's. Once again I respect them and they respect me. They know I am talking loudly and not yelling. I remind them most times before we go out on windy days that I will be loud. I also believe its not what you say, its how you say it. Volume is not the problem unless you are litterly yelling when everyone else is talking.
  15. Broken gooseneck casting

    carbon