Oceanconcepts

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16 Whiner

About Oceanconcepts

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/14/1952

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  • Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
  • Interests
    Electronic instrumentation and user interface design, Scuba diving, rowing, sailing, boat design, new technology.
    Curent custodian of Pathfinder, a Brin Wilson built S&S one tonner.

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  1. Oceanconcepts

    S&S Design 2096 rebuild

    Beautiful. I'd love to see some pictures of the process. Starting from uninsurable it must have been quite a job. I'm working on a (very) gradual restoration of S&S 2062 one tonner from 1970. Fortunately it's been reasonably well cared for in all the ways that matter. But still a daunting task. The horizontal planking on the interior definitely gives a classic feel.
  2. Oceanconcepts

    A big project!

    At least according to the tourist brochures and local real estate agents, Sequim exists in a state of perpetual sunshine and balmy breezes while the rest of us in Puget Sound slog through endless rain and gray.
  3. Oceanconcepts

    Old Sails

    You have me beat for age. Quite a few sails of this vintage though, some in pretty decent condition.
  4. Oceanconcepts

    A big project!

    @Foiling Optimist+1 to your comments. As a small scale entrepreneur in technology and instrumentation design, I see too many of those who actually know how to make things are nearly my age. The denigration of skilled trades as being somehow less worthwhile is a sore point. It’s a fantasy to believe we can educate some kind of technical designer elite absent a connection to the physical reality of making things. I watched my daughter’s high school drop all shop classes 15 years ago rather than modernize them, and ramp up “technology” education- mostly by teaching kids how to use Word and Excel. This is so profoundly wrong as to bring tears of frustration to this high tech entrepreneur. Not every bright person should be behind a computer or in a cubicle. Skilled and highly intelligent builders are where the most profound innovations are likely to come from. Leo is a hope and an inspiration.
  5. Oceanconcepts

    Kat Ketch rigs

    I've been taken with the rig since briefly sailing a Freedom 44 in the mid 80's. And having a Finn left me a fan of unstayed rigs. I came close to buying a Freedom 44 a few years back. So I guess I qualify as a fan. And @DDW I've greatly admired Anomaly from posts and pictures here and on your blog, for much more than the rig. Truly a remarkable vessel.
  6. Oceanconcepts

    Alternatives for teak for structural wood?

    Neither the oak or the walnut you will find at Home Depot are likely to do well in an outside environment. Relying on varnish for protection is not a long term reliable solution- there will always be nicks and scrapes, and eventually some deferred maintenance. It’s not just rot, but discoloration from little scrapes in the varnish film that keep me away from such woods. Where are you? Most places in the Salish Sea area will have a lumberyard with hardwood availability nearby. Ash is tough and attractive as a light laminating wood, and usually very available. Mass flooring suppliers like Lumber Liquidators stores, which seem to be everywhere, sell many tropical woods like jatoba (“Brazilian Cherry”), purpleheart or ipe- or ash or white oak, for that matter- at very low prices in flooring dimensions, which should work for your plans. Materials cost for your project are minimal compared to labor. Go for something that will hold up.
  7. Oceanconcepts

    Alternatives for teak for structural wood?

    To respond to the original question, I’ve used jatoba quite a bit for teak like applications where I want the reddish brown appearance, It’s hard and incredibly durable- supposedly jatoba railroad ties in the tropics have lasted to 100+ years. It’s readily available here from a local cabinet wood supplier (Crosscut Hardwoods in Seattle) in a range of sizes and is not expensive. I made Pathfinder’s new handrails and winch supports from jatoba that I intend to keep oiled, but it's also very rich and attractive varnished. http://www.wood-database.com/jatoba/ Another option is cumaru, which is quite close to teak in appearance. Advantage lumber has quite a few of these woods and their characteristics listed. http://www.advantagelumber.com But I will also go along with the others who suggest that if you are not hung up on the wood appearance, laminating using a lighter wood like cedar or even foam covered with glass would be a lighter weight solution. Looking at the picture my first thought would be to laminate from strips, whatever wood I choose. When epoxy-glassing over woods like cedar or fir be careful to seal where fasteners penetrate so water can’t be trapped within the wood. If you are going to glass and seal these woods you need to do it pretty much perfectly. The advantage of some of the tropical woods like jatoba, ipe, or cumaru is that they can be left unsealed. Pic is a jatoba handrail.
  8. Oceanconcepts

    looking for one of these

    My best guess is a fitting from C. Sherman Johnson. http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/s00001.htm
  9. Oceanconcepts

    Hard dinghy oars & oarlocks - what works best?

    I didn't pick up on that, but it makes them look even better. Having the blades held square on the pull stroke makes feathering about 1000% easier. I picked up a pair of old CF sculling oars- spoon blades, not the current hatchet style- for not too much a few years ago. Stiffness in oars is important, and CF is clearly superior to wood. Cut down, with the grips glued back in place, they could make great dinghy oars. Yes, typically one oarlock is spaced up slightly with a bushing, traditionally left over right. After a few minutes (well, maybe an hour or so) it becomes quite natural, and it allows a more comfortable and powerful stroke. I always used a compass, but I did the reverse part in my head.
  10. Oceanconcepts

    Hard dinghy oars & oarlocks - what works best?

    My perspective is coming from being a recreational rower. I’ll second the other opinions that the single biggest improvement would come from going to longer oars- probably by a couple of feet, based on the beam of your dinghy. Distance between the oarlocks is the main factor, and you can go a bit longer and be more efficient if you get comfortable with an overlapped hands rowing style. After that, light, stiff oars. And a good place to brace your feet. Gaco looks nice, but when I get my eventual hard dinghy, my plan is to adapt some old Concept II style oarlocks. These lock the oar in, and have a flat against the post that holds the blade at the optimum slightly digging in angle during the power stroke, while allowing easy feathering on the return (good in the wind). This allows more energy to go into the pure pulling stroke. After being so used to them for many years it’s hard to imagine going back to a conventional oarlock. The oar needs a flat aligned with the blade. Where I am, old wooden training shell oars are easy to find and could be shortened- typically they are about 9.5 feet. I have a pair with plastic spoon blades earmarked for my hypothetical dinghy.
  11. Oceanconcepts

    Girl with patreon account goes sailing in hot place

    At least in Washington, boats are required to be registered with the state even if they are titled through federal documentation. It seems to have something to do with collecting sales tax... Not everyone does it, but at least in my marina current registration is required for all boats in slips. Small boats without motors don't require registration. My guess is that the biggest number of sailboats being in the 24-28 foot range is about right. And 40-45 years ago was a pretty big boom in sailboat building. Even if it seems like last month to some of us.
  12. Oceanconcepts

    Coolboats to admire

    I have what is supposed to be one of the first Finns brought into the US, #11. It's hot molded wood from 1954, which makes it slightly younger than me. At one point it was owned by Pete Sutter, sailmaker extraordinaire of SF Bay. I know his son David cruised the San Juans in the boat. You'd have to be a lot tougher than I am...
  13. Oceanconcepts

    What To Do With This Cabin Sole

    ^^^ What he said. I was convinced I would need to replace the cabin sole veneers on my old Aphrodite 101. A good cleaning and sanding revealed a surface that looked pretty good, and served for quite a few years. Of course, if the veneers are actually gone or peeling, that's another story.
  14. Oceanconcepts

    What To Do With This Cabin Sole

    What level of woodworking skills and equipment do you have or have access to? If you can get access to a good tablesaw or bandsaw and some healthy boards you can rip thin planks- maybe between 1/8” and 3/16” or so- that can be epoxied down over your existing floorboards- after they get a good sanding and cleaning, that is. It’s not a particularly hard task and should yield great looking results. If you can give up on the alternating light/ dark teak and holly appearance the job will be a lot easier. There are plenty of woods that that are not anywhere near as expensive as teak and will be fine if left minimally finished for better traction below. A good hardwood lumber supplier, like Crosscut in Seattle or Edensaw in PT can help. I’m currently using resawn Cumaru decking to replace some worn cockpit seats, it’s very similar in appearance to teak, but a little less dimensionally stable. Check out Kris Cringle’s posts #16 and on in this thread Looking for Teak lats - can you help? Where he built a spectacular new cockpit out of ipe. Nothing wrong with paint, but if the boat is otherwise in good shape and you want a wood sole, it should be very doable.
  15. Oceanconcepts

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Maybe not duct tape, that falls apart pretty quickly. A sacrificial fabric sleeve to prevent chafe, or Rescue tape, which has many uses. https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Clamshell/dp/B001JT0ET8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526319235&sr=8-3&keywords=rescue+tape+self-fusing+silicone+tape