Zach

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About Zach

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  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Sailing, Motorcycles, world travel.

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  1. Zach

    I messed up, paint in mast track

    Mast up or mast down?
  2. Zach

    Oyster restoration

    Good thread!
  3. Zach

    Craigslist - Not mocking

    Saw this today: Cal 40 for $3k down in the florida keys. https://keys.craigslist.org/boa/d/project-1967-calforty-396/6683315783.html Looks like it had a mountain of work done getting the paint done, probably needs a rudder. Irma evidently sunk her and has a new sunk yanmar pickled engine... Wouldn't be a bad blank slate hot-rod as she needs a rig.
  4. Zach

    One Generator for two 30A circuits

    Check out the Victron Quattro and Multiplus line that are boost inverters with on board chargers that can be ganged. If you have a sizeable house bank they can rob peter to pay paul for some loads that once the loads are off, let the generator max out the charging circuit and replace what was used without requiring you to do any switching. Also works on shore power. https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2018/04/20/multiplus-quattro-inverter-chargers-improved-current-limits/ Rather than a disconnect breaker or Change over switch, these guys interface between the generator/shore power connector and the distribution panels and do the voodoo of both. They can give you another 8-16amps a piece off your house bank, automatically, if you have a draw that is marginal, and can be ganged together to give a greater output and charging capacity. It seems like most folks size them to fully tax the generator as battery chargers first and foremost, and try to size the inverter half to fully utilize on their own each of the distribution panels they are attached to. You may also want to look into soft start kit for your A/C if already present, as the momentary loads can be reduced, they've got some new black magic type stuff. Microair makes one that isn't a soft start capacitors/hard start capacitor but motor controllers that ramps things up slowly for the lowest amp draw.
  5. Zach

    Cool fairing tool

    Probably Alexseal, Awlfair is pink.
  6. Build a new stock if you had to grind that far to get the corrosion out. The shaft is cheap by the foot, and not worth building a new rudder around.
  7. Zach

    Remove thin gelcoat layer -- over CF

    5cm wide by 1 meter long? I would rip a hard foam sanding block down to 4cm, and use 40-60 grit sandpaper alternating scratch patterns and occasionally skewing the board to touch both borders. Hard backed "inline paper" that is sold in 16 inch sticks works well, on a 4-5 inch long sanding block. An air hose helps to blow the sanding dust out of the paper, but if not a pass with a 2 inch chip brush that has the bristles cut down to a 1/4 inch or so works too. Just work it by down a foot or so at a time, and it'll go pretty quick, 3-4 inch long passes back and forth with a lot of pressure instead of speed. Once you see your fibers, leave a bit of a haze of red to them so you don't have to get destructive to prep for your next structural layup.
  8. Zach

    A/C ducting

    I saw a picture on a brokerage site a few weeks ago, that had a lewmar hatch deck hatch on the vertical wall of the cabin house beside the companionway... with a window unit about the right size for it. Can't say I would of thought of it, but they had it mostly in the cabin with just a bit of the condenser hanging out the back. Would solve a lot of struggle, without a whole lot of work and store the thing when not needed. Googling, I think it might have been a Lewmar 30 rectangular hatch and a LG 6000 btu A/C just judging by dimensions.
  9. Zach

    Winch pads, UHMW or Delrin?

    Something I've found rather handy for making cast epoxy blocks, is to go to the kitchen isle at walmart and stare at the glassware section til you find something the right shape if you turn it upside down. Walmart is better than your own kitchen, because if you need three of something you can buy three instead of having one that is perfect and making a casting then getting tempted to make a mold off the casting when you discover that bowl was the last one on earth of the right size... Wax the inside of the glass, mix up your goop and work the air out of it in the glass and let it kick off. The next day, smack it with a hammer inside a trash can and you've got a part that releases out of the mold easily without care for draft angles, and with no sanding because it is dead slick. Just don't cast polycarbonate in a pyrex baking dish on your bbq grill... Didn't know pyrex exploded if the temperature changes quickly, opened the lid for a peak and when I shut it... CABOOM. Not a piece of glass bigger than a tooth pick, and a ball of semi-molten plastic that wasn't quite on fire...
  10. Zach

    Fairing SC27 rudder

    About the only speed tip, is don't long board in 80 if you can find 60. 80 is on the edge of smoothing, 60 you are still fairing, and 40 you are shaping. I use 3M dry guide coat or west systems graphite smeared on the surface. Once you are in primer, denatured alcohol and a dash of green food coloring works well. Once you have template good, pattern good areas put some tape over them or prime them with interlux interprotect and lock them down as good. A lot of folks will chase their own tail by not working in station lines and going over and over, sanding outside the lines things that are already fixed and good. That takes a lot of extra effort. Fairing just means getting things flat, and in the right plane. If it is curved, it means wasting down to the fairest curve you can get and building up the lows... And has nothing to do with sanding until you end up with a smooth surface. Only two camps, screeding on the putty with a trowel or metal bar wide enough to span onto good station lines, or over-filling every low spot so it is a bleeding high spot and knocking it down flush the the surrounding area. One, you scuff with 80 grit and prime... The other you rock out with 40 grit until it is fair. If you over fill and sand with 80 grit, you don't get fair except by accident. A foot and a half sheet rock trowel pulls a slight curve to it that feathers in the edges. That is what it is made to do. It is meant to go over the top of a lump, and pull a tapered fill to each side of the tape on a sheet rock joint on a wall no one gives a shit about if it is flat or not in egg shell paint. A piece of angle iron or 3 inch wide 1/4 inch aluminum flat bar is fucking flat as a screed. Most people use a sheet rock trowel, flexible knife, and pull a slick... The slick ends up low in the middle, unless you over fill it so the edges so they are bleeding high spots that you have to work your ass off to feather in. Otherwise you end up with a low hollow in the middle of the low spot and a taper in that needs filling. Using a flat bar wide enough to span the whole shooting match to pull means you can't put any more into the hole than what it takes to fill it. Wider is better, until you are fixing holidays, finger prints, and drag marks. Then just big enough to cover the holiday and a big blob on top to account for shrink back rules the day. If you go finer than what you are boarding with on a DA, you can DA until the board scratches disappear and get a fresh look at things. With fresh paper, a 2 foot by 2 foot area doesn't take long to get a clean canvas as you aren't sanding a flat surface but one that is already heavily grooved. Most folks can work until they kill themselves pushing a board, and if things are too rough folks can't feel the difference between a low spot, and a textured spot that the board kisses only one direction. Unless you have an orbital air file, almost no one board sands without throwing power at it, heavily, at alternating intervals when fairing. World is split when you get past 180 grit... Some folks board sand to completion, but almost nobody does 40 grit work purely by hand. Gist is, if the 80 grit paper cuts a scratch depth and 40 grit cuts a scratch depth. You remove the depth of the 40 grit scratches when you sand them off... But that means you can in effect "measure" how low your lows are. If you don't have many lows, or many highs, and you are trying to work out the surface and get it flat, going coarser does the job better if you have more than one material visible. Soft stuff doesn't sand the same as hard stuff, and you can't sand hard and soft stuff with fine sand paper without, never, finishing until you eventually put a glaze over the surface thick enough just to scuff and prime and sand out as one material. Primer is a surfacing agent. Interlux Interprotect in grey is self guide coating. If you have enough material on to not cut through to the base material, you can cut with the hand board and see the surface of what the board touches and does not touch, and DA around where you aren't making contact to lower the whole area. Until you get squeedgee fair, where you are pulling the final skim with a 6 inch squeedgee and just putting a glaze on to smooth out before priming... You don't lose much ground by slicking out to take a look at things. The worst of your low spots will still have hand board marks, as the DA can't fit the low spots that are that low either. If you have places like that, keep on sanding with coarse grits until you get shape... Then putty the whole damn thing up in a thin skim and smooth it out. with fine grits. The Hand board cuts grooves, and unless you cross off the surface, more grooving the same direction as the rest of the grooves doesn't cut material very quickly. A DA cutting a harshly grooved surface, makes quick work of smoothing. You can speed up hand boarding small knots and high spots by using a 40 grit block and rough scuffing vertical and horizontal over them, and hand boarding the 45's until the 40 grit scratches are off... But if you find that useful, you really shouldn't be in 80 grit yet. Most folks are well served by not trying to 80 grit to get shape, until they are ready to mix primer. Even if you back up and punt on a few places, it is faster not to try to jump ahead in grits and get smooth before you are straight. Stuff that doesn't cut down high knots, smooths them out but you have to kill yourself to get them gone. About a third of the time you spend hand with a 16 inch board, ought to be vertical work instead of just working your crosses. Verify that you've got a consistent thickness, by working the vertical and if you don't have kiss-contact around the areas you've been pkcing on to get shape... You've got shape, but that shape is low. I use a silcone 3M half mask and P100 pink cartridges for general grinding and the activated carbon ones for working in fresh material. Thickster latex or vinyl gloves make a big difference in getting out of the fiberglass itch as grinders throw glass at high speed into the back of your hands...
  11. I think it would be neat, if someone made a Morse control cable operated valve. Something with a control arm on it, and a guide for the cable all mounted together. May have to do some studying.
  12. Zach

    Drag behind speed sensor

    Take a look at these... http://www.knotstick.com/
  13. Zach

    single burner camp stove multi-gimballed

    I've always thought this was a neat design for a home build. http://atomvoyages.com/cys/126-atomstove.html
  14. Had a buddy that worked in a shop that used soda bottles for flotation. Owner wanted an extra fuel tank. Was there... Cut the hole, lifted the cockpit sole. Reaches in and says... "Hey this ones mine, last one I threw in!"
  15. Zach

    What To Do With This Cabin Sole

    If you aren't married to wood finish. Paint it. If you have any oil soaked areas, start solvent washing them today... Something around a Seattle Grey bright sides cut 50/50 with Matterhorn white would be a lighter grey than what you have painted on the hull sides and would make the boat look older, and bigger, than she is inside. A little bit of grey, and a little bit of blue makes it easier to hide a little bit of dirt... If you use a dash of interdeck, and enough flattening agent that it rolls out as flat, it'll still be slick finished but hide a foot print. Bilge Kote grey and white cut 50/50 ends up being about the same color as Herreschoff did on a lot of soles, but it is slick stuff. A lot of folks use Kirby Paints that are straight oil base, as the color cards are damn near the same as Interlux/Awlgrip. Sandstone and Prarie Beige look good beside white, but beside grey they'd be a clash. White and cream are harder to keep up. Black works, maroon, and dark dark green work if you have a lot of brass accents... but you probably don't have enough light for it not to feel like a cave. It'll also feel a lot smaller inside. You can true up some of the chewed up areas with west systems 407. There isn't anything inherently wrong with some wear that changes the depth of the grooves in places... That is just character, but chipped out and missing bits you can fill in once just to keep it easy to maintain, in that if there aren't any big low spots you can dance a sander over the area once ever 3 years and roll a fresh coat on. Once it is painted you can use 3M scotchbrite pads on the grooves before a repaint. The gist is you can use a 4 inch brush, and put a light coat of paint on that gets into the grooves, then the next coat roll a light coat on and tip along the grooves with the brush. That keeps stuff looking sharp. It takes a little sanding of the grooves clean out your old varnish. A plastic squeedgee with sticky backed sandpaper over it does a good job. I use a pencil line to draw where I've sanded. You can either work one line from end to end, or work a 2x2 foot area sitting on a 1 gallon paint can... Then move along. The easiest way to get a clean edge around the outside, is to put a tape line on and sand down the existing grey that you have and pull a 2-3 inch tape line onto the new painted floor, then repaint the grey around the hull. That way you get a break that isn't on the absolute edge, don't need any corner trim and you have room for tape on a flat surface. That makes a repaint a very easy thing. Taping the hull with all the angles and twist and round, is a little harder. You can do polyester and mat tab 2-3 inches wide so it doesn't kill out onto the beaded floor.... or just a fairing pull of epoxy to fill around it. If you don't try to taper up onto the hull at all, and just fill the grooves 2-3 inches wide around the edge, you get something that is very easy to work with. That gives you something wide enough to have a crisp edge and somewhere to break the paint, as well as a little bit of a seal on the end grain to keep condensation from dripping down behind the sole. Try your best not to epoxy coat the whole thing, as most single part paints have issues curing successfully over epoxy that isn't a month or two old, even if you sand it. I normally lean towards Awlgrip 545 for primer, just because it damn sure will cure every time no matter what. Nothing stops you from using porch paint and the like... But on a cabin sole you need a few box fans to keep the air turning over for it to cure up and 2-3 days before you walk on it if you do a heavy coat. If you stick to brightsides or Interdeck type stuff you can always get another quart that is in the ball park of what you have if you want to patch in a bit.