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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Zach

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About Zach

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  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Sailing, Motorcycles, world travel.

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  1. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Got down to the mast over the weekend and widened the slot for the new pieces. Still have a bit of trimming to do to fit it to the welds.
  2. Wonder if you could drill a hole through the cap for a return line to drop into...
  3. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Indeed. That is one that we've been wrestling with as the aluminum masthead would take a bit of work to put the cap shrouds in the same place. We've talked about machined aluminum blocks bolted on, and slots with toggles hanging through as the bent tang welded to the top of the stainless masthead doesn't translate well to aluminum. I've already got the new standing rigging ready to go, so I'm debating hanging a tang/ gusset plate a foot or so down from the top of the mast and cutting off the ends of the shrouds to replace the swages with norseman fittings. Thanks for the feedback, Zach
  4. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Top view of the new masthead. Forestay clevis pin is 4 inches forward of the mast wall. Top plate is 8 inches wide by 19 long for scale... Thanks, Zach
  5. Building a spinnaker crane?

    The new masthead we are building is a double sheave for jib and main the depth of the old slot in the mast. The scribe lines on the side show the masthead opening. We kept the centerline widths for the forestay and backstay the same. It'll get cut down a bit from the total width of the existing flange, but for right now it is easier to clamp onto straight sided. Zach
  6. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Thanks guys... Pinching, I'm not sure we have the real estate inside the mast to run triple internal halyards, as to widen the sheave box any more it would take the curved fore and aft faces of the mast almost totally off. With double halyard sheaves, we are 1 7/8" wide on the new sheave box. Her old masthead had a one jib, one main halyard. Mast has a 14 foot taper, is aluminum and ends up at the top 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 at the widest of the oval. It was a cup shaped that wedged on to the mast, and to service the sheaves the mast and rigging had to come down, and masthead come off. The plan on the new masthead is to run the sheave axles throu The old spinnaker crane was a rotating sheave that projected a few inches above the masthead... But could rotate 360 degrees and meant no antennas or anchor lights on the mast.
  7. Hi Guys, I've got a Luders 44 that is a masthead rigged sloop, and I'm curious how many inches do you like to see the spinnaker crane eye bolts be forward of the forestay clevis pin, and about how far apart do you like to see the two ears project? Looking to keep things from chafing and halyard slap to a minimum with two external spinnaker halyards. The masthead is a new piece with a flat top, trying to figure on all the details before welding it up. Thanks, Zach
  8. If you do repair the backside, do a few layers at a time particularly if you are using polyester. If the part is weak enough to fail then it is weak enough to get pulled around from shrinkage. The top skin needs to be around a 1/4 inch thick of fiberglass if you go over foam, but will be strong enough on its own though springy if you just leave it a 1/4 inch without a core. If you go thinner than a 1/4 you can get some pretty heavy star crazing if somebody drops something heavy on the hatch. I use doublesided outdoor carpet tape and or hot glue gun to stick thin panels to a flat surface so that the shrinkage of the resin doesn't pull a potato chip shape into the part... You can use it to re-fair a warped part if you grind enough of the substrate off the backside to flex the gel coated surface down to the work surface. Leave 3 inches or so on the face of the hatch if it has a lip to taper in so you don't lose the outer shape. If you lay biax onto something that is very thin and soft, it pulls a potato chip along the axis of the fibers... sometimes... even in epoxy. Shorter lengths pull less, so you can get away with stripping in pieces of cloth until you get it built up rather than a full size piece at one go. Mat doesn't pull in any particular direction, so if you've got a very thin skin it can be helpful to grind all the bad out until you can damn near see gel coat through the skin up coat. I like mat even though it is heavy for that reason. I normally put a layer or two of mat torn off the roll without any scissor cuts before you put down any biax on decorative parts and let it peak out in temperature. Once the part starts cooling back off you can lay up the next layer. You can grind it fairly flush and to the same thickness all over, easier if you have a belt sander though not necessary for anything but cosmetics, I like to make sure the sacrificial layer is mat rather than biax as you don't grind off your directional fibers and your paint or gel ready a bit quicker. 1708 works upside down too. Grin. Measure the thickness of the hatch now with a set of calipers around the edge, and that is the number you have to hit for it to close the same. You can go thicker and grind down the edge, but it is less dusty on the boat if you can get it close off the first go. An 1/8th on the far side of the hinge isn't a big deal, but an 1/8th right beside the hinge too thick won't shut properly depending on the framing. If you have an air file this makes quick work... Once you have the top skin fixed, you can lay a core of pretty much anything so long as you do the math for the offsets around the frame and taper the edges in. The tab for the core needs to be inside of the frame the hatch sits on so you don't grind it off if you end up too thick. Hat shaped stringers work too if you don't have anything handy, but I like to keep the back side of hatches pretty smooth in the event they fall on my head at a later date. Grin. Core mat also works fairly well, but is also heavy... But it goes on the part quick. Cheers, Zach
  9. painting over gel coat - questions/concerns

    Awlgrip works over gelcoat, but don't forget your 545 primer. Awlgrips website has a good section about application. If you have a local supplier they can get you a spiral bound "bible." That'll answer 9/10 of questions. You'll also want a carbon filter respirator... If you aren't used to spraying iso catalyzed automotive clear coat type paints, the level of "It'll kill ya" is high so read the safety data sheets. It is much safer to use in roll and tip applications. Boat builders are risk takers just use carbon filter respirators rather than forced air supplied hoods... Wash the boat with soap and water. Then wash it with acetone. Then wash it with Interlux 202... Then do a wipe down with Awlgrips clean up solvent. If you still have wax on the boat and you sand it, you've got a job that will flake off at random in places. Don't use any cheap filler for small dings. You can use 3M Marine filler, or Evercoat Ultrasmooth for small stuff... But leave the 3M acryl white, and red lacquer spot filler in the trash can as it'll bleed through or fail at the prime line down the road. If you paint it white, it'll look decent. If you go darker colored you'll need to fair the boat. If this is your first rodeo, don't fair the boat. Sand with 220 grit and prime it and go sailing. West systems 410 works ok under white paint, but under dark paint sags. It is very soft in comparison to gelcoat so you do need to know what you are doing when you try to fill a low spot with it. 407 is better to work with just because it is a little harder and you don't wipe it out of holes you want to fill. Awlgrips awlfair works perfectly, but you pay for it. When you get to 545, you have to get a full wet build coat on the boat that will sand out with 320 grit before you top coat or you won't get an even shine. If the tooth of your sandpaper is still grabbing high spots in the gel through the primer you get halos, rings, and other kinds of crap. To say that awlgrip is a thin coating, is an understatement. It is very expensive to use as primer, so don't try to paint your way out of bad primer coverage. If you aren't using a finish sander, you'll get sanding scratches that show through... You need a 3/32 DA, not a 5/32. Don't sand down to low spots in the primer that still show orange peel if you are burning through the gel coat to get to them. Rub them with red scotch brite and spot prime them once you get 80% of the way to a smooth prime job. For your first few coats of primer, follow the chemical bonding window and only sand off your worst runs and thick spots rather than the whole boat just to get some material on the boat before you hit gelcoat everywhere. That takes a few a days to build up a coat if you are rolling, and is once every few hours if you are spraying. Until you get some material on, it doesn't make a lot of sense to sand between every coat... The difference in the rate gelcoat sands from the rate your primer sands, means you have halos and holidays everywhere until you get built up high enough to sand out just primer. This is the only secret of painting. You either knock down the high spots, fill the low spots, or bury the whole surface and sand till you find a fair boat. Up to you how you go, but fairing at random before you prime is the hard way to go. Prime before fairing and you have a guide coat to see where you need fairing material. You can speed up the priming if you use Awlgrip Awlquick from the start, but still need 545 over the top to get a good shine, which puts you at 2 gallons of each by the time its said and done. Don't mark anything with a pen, use a pencil to mark your low spots. Use 3M dry guide coat, or SEM dry guide coat so you don't load up your paper. If you sand the boat out to 220 before you prime, you don't have a good reason to drop back below 180 if you are rolling just long enough to take the roller stipple off. Anything coarser than that and you may as well sand with a hunk of concrete curb. Use the dry guide coat to show when you have cut through the orange peel, then again to show when you have cut through the 180 with the 220. Then move your feet and don't sand a low spot. Only sand in vertical passes that overlap... Do a 2x2 foot square and move. Change your paper. 3M gold is good enough without breaking the bank. 90% of the work is in prep, and the other 10% is learning how to shoot or roll the top coat. The actual application of the top coat takes no time in comparison. You can't get the paint thin enough with reducer, or put on thin enough coats once you have a good surface to work with. It is worth buying Awlgrips wipe down solvent. Get some good tack rags, and some washed lint free rags so you don't paint over dust. Cheers, Zach
  10. Fiberglass takes a thread well, so long as the laminate stays dry and doesn't freeze. Stuff goes to hell in a hand basket if you have a void or water track to the bottom of a blind threaded hole... Otherwise a little epoxy on a 3/4 inch long 1/4 -20 bolt will test your patience if it is in an impossible place. I like to use #3 phillips bits, and a torch to get stuff back loose. Heat up a cheap screw driver with the torch until the heat gets down into the screw or bolt, and loosen it up when the epoxy starts getting warm. I'd rather not wax the fasteners to make them removable, as wax, paint and potted in fasteners just seems like a bad idea waiting to happen to an unsuspecting victim down the line. I've done a few rub rails and such that are blind threaded into place into thickened epoxy. You can power tap the holes into thickened epoxy a little deep and then dunk the screws before they go in to lock everything together. It works fairly well into wood, though a brad point bit is nice to start a centered hole to prick through the part. Then over-boring a hole large enough to be easy to back fill. Through boring works well if you have access to the back and two people, pack until it comes through with no air, then clean up and move forward. Transfer punches work too, if you put a dab of sharpie mark under each of the holes locations. I've had some success using double sided carpet tape to build blocks to roughly hold things into place fighting gravity. Only trouble I've run into on bigger plastic pieces, say 20 feet is if the temperature is radically different the delrin extrusions change length enough to move your bolt holes enough on the ends to make for alignment difficulties on the end opposite of where you start. 20-30 degrees is a big deal on plastic as you'll move a 1/4 inch, which means the over-bored holes have to account for enough room for that growth or you run back into wood. 610 works well if you do it from the bottom. Basically prick a hole in the tape and over-fill from the bottom so the air burps out the top and have a second piece of tape ready to go when you pull the mixing wand out of the hole. From the top it is a pain to get the air out if you only have a few holes as they burp for a while, and if you have a skin over the top and a bubble in the middle it can be tough to get clear, I use stainless welding rod if things need to be stirred a bit... If you are casting stuff through the deck like chain plates, a few wraps of blue tape around where the epoxy will go plus a few mylar packing tape wraps make enough room for sealant. Otherwise a perfect fit requires hogging back out for stuff that will move, and you need room for sealant to be able to flex for it to do its job... Dremel tools with carbide burrs work well as you can get into tight places, so long as the boat is big enough to use 1/4 inch fasteners or 1/4 inch plate. Horizontal stuff you can fill with the logic of an outboard motor lower unit, fill from the bottom with mylar packing tape and when all the air burps out the top you are good. It takes thinner resin to do, but works. I still like over-boring and using milled glass fiber better, but if you super glue the fasteners into the hardware you can cast with straight resin that way in tightly fitting holes if you have a syringe and a pin drill. Drill at an angle to the bolt hole from the side of the fastener hole away from the hardware if you have a thick enough material to do it... Cheers, Zach
  11. That took some vision... but damn she is pretty.
  12. If you can't feel the ripples, and when you sand them out they disappear immediately... Sometimes you have thin spots where you are tipping on the first 2 -3 coats on thin products that are showing a lack of pigment/color in thickness on areas that were and are too hot for the paint to have a second wetting after you tip. If you use a 3 inch foam brush to tip in, and wet the tip just enough not to leave dry drag lines sometimes you can put a thin enough coat on to get by, but hot is hot. Sometimes this has to do with what shading the boat gets, if it lays out perfect under overhangs of the bow, but not the plumb vertical stuff you may just need to paint earlier in the day before your surface temperatures go up. If you have another boat beside you that takes some of the sun off of parts of the boat, you'll get spots like that where one side of the shaded line is 20-30 degrees warmer than the other and paint that is otherwise well behaved everywhere else wants to lock up solid before it lays down.
  13. Deck recore near fuel / water fill caps

    Are the fittings mounted on pads, or are they flush to the deck/recessed? Sometimes the path of least resistance/fastest way when it comes to "fairing" around that type stuff is to remove them, take a plywood board and mylar packing tape and tape it to the underside of the inner skin, lay a piece of glass on it and then keep on moving as though they were not there and put them back when you are ready for top coat/primer/finish gel. Not quite 97% of the time that is the faster way to get a clean job... But given the choice of bumping into a raised spot on deck that you can't fit a DA between it and the cabin top or cockpit coaming and have to hand sand each layer, it works out faster to drop them into the off-cut pile and put them back later. If you don't want to remove them, the easy way is to use epoxy and 406/407 filler blended 50/50 and back fill under the area, even though you are doing a vinylester repair... Just tape like hell around the inner skin and top skin. Let it kick and grind off square, edged and keep on moving. Polyester and vinylester don't like to pour that thick, unless you use something like Evercoat kitty hair in the auto body market... which works... But so does the epoxy if you have a little laying around. I'm all in favor of the vinylester for the repair job, so don't hear me as saying anything other than. The deal with polyester fills is that when you go to drill back into them, they like to explode when you want to change your fitting or move a screw hole. That sucks... Better to give up the edge gluing strength of the core around your small fittings to the back filled putty, than it is to have exploded rock candy around your drilled hole. Back to removing them: If you want to flush mount them later, you can use epoxy and cast them into place, where ever you want to put them. Hole saw, allen key in a drill and blow the foam out of the way. Wax the fitting, tape around it and squirt west 610 through a hole in the tape until it goops out the top end. Most of the time the original install was set up that in order to replace the hose you have to remove them anyway to do it, put the hose on the fitting with the hose clamp on, jam it into the hole and somebody in the hole points it in the general direction of where it ought to go, and somebody else shoves it on the tank. Normally that run means there is a tight enough bend you can't dip-stick the tank with a sail batten. I personally like moving that stuff to cockpits and cockpit lockers, as they get less water and you are less likely to have a bad deck o-ring ruin a weekend with water in a fuel tank or salt water in a fresh water tank. On outboard motor boats, I like to do away with inboard gas tanks and go to a 6 gallon remote tank in the cockpit just because you short cut a half dozen problems over the life cycle of the boat, from bad gas to filling/storing jerry cans, to fill the tank. Drain the tank for winter? Dump it in the truck... Take two 6 gallon tanks to the gas pump, and you can hot-swap them under way without filling from a jerry can on the boat. Don't run out of gas... because you can see what you have. On diesel boats I like to put the fill inside a cockpit locker, so that if you are filling from a jerry can under way you are braced into a position to hold a 5 gallon can. Hanging onto a lifeline with your teeth and a jerry can on your elbow is not fun, and even less fun with the fancy no-spill nozzles. Under a locker lid means that your bad-fill O-ring never sees enough water to make an algae bloom. Smarter people than I, make the fill point low enough that they can use a siphon hose with a built in shaker/squeeze ball to get it primed and let gravity fill the tank... Cheers, Zach
  14. Right on... Are you going to dry sail the boat or any thoughts of painting? Painting, the shiny spots are going to give you a pain in the ass for adhesion later on... I'd roll on a coat of interlux interprotect before you bottom paint if it is going to be in a wet slip any length of time. I'll throw out there that I use 3M gold paper on hookit if I can't use a DA with stickit. If you change paper like you are late for the prom, you can cover a lot of ground quickly. 3-5 minutes a sheet. If you can get your 80 grit and not pay much more than $40 a box of 75, it works out pretty well that you can do a boat in a day (8 hours) less if you change your paper quick... Paper doesn't last until you get into 220 grit when you are playing with epoxy... Zach
  15. Steering-wheel to tiller conversion

    Like it...