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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Zach

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About Zach

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    Member

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  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Sailing, Motorcycles, world travel.

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  1. Anyone used Kiwigrip and removed it?

    I haven't used it yet... Gist is, I ground the nonskid off an 80 foot trawler once that was blasting sand in rubber mastic paint... Basically tough enough stuff that it ripped the grit off sandpaper. Trying not to pick an easy way that ends up being a very large pain in the butt at a later date!
  2. Hi Guys, I'm curious if kiwigrip is something that clogs sandpaper, or what the general level of aggression you have about removing it. Thanks, Zach
  3. Weather Helm

    Do you have a cunningham cringle? Sometimes if you crank on the cunningham and leave it be once your sails hit a certain age they can stretch another season out. Steam Flyer: Preach! Most boats aren't symmetrical as a start. Don't ever put a bevel gauge on a production built boats stem...
  4. Building a boat

    Wanting to be able to see yourself in the paint, and a smooth ripple free job or work boat? Just curious, as picking one or the other is a hell of a lot easier off the starting gun than changing horses mid stream. There are a few steps you can take on the materials and jig work side that can save you a shit-ton of work if you want an awlgrip grade job. None of that matters one wit if you just want the hull stood up and painted one color, as making something easy to fair after glassing doesn't matter if you don't fair it! Cheers, Zach
  5. Building a boat

    How fair and shiny of paint are you going to put on her? Awlgrip or porch paint?
  6. Building a boat

    Ryan, Saw this pop up on craigslist today and thought about you... 34 foot sharpie, Presto down in the florida keys for 14k. Might be worth a look as she is airex and fiberglass instead of wood. https://keys.craigslist.org/boa/d/34-foot-sharpie-sailboat/6365382817.html
  7. Thoughts on mast rotation controls

    Something that worked well on one boat I ran, was to work out the limits of how much rotation you want to allow with a stopper knot and run the tension backwards. Basically just set up so you ease the windward side down to where you want it set, have the leeward side with just enough slack to put the mast straight. Once you are on the new tack, blow the adjustment and let the mast down to the stopper knot and you've got your maximum rotation you want. Worked well, as the mast on that boat had a tiller arm through bolted to the front. At the end of the tiller were a pair of 4:1 blocks port and starboard, hung on a U-bolt. That put them a foot or foot and a half ahead of the mast, with the line leading and down to the deck with blocks on pad eyes with a cam cleat behind each. 3-4 feet to each side. It had some leverage to work it without having a spaghetti, or an 8:1 tackle. The tiller also gave you a pretty good visual indication of what was going on up there from the helm. We used to break the bottom battens at the batten car, but never broke them again after glassing them back together with some biax in epoxy. We cut a dado down a 2x4 long enough to back up the batten and set it to size... Ground the scarf into the batten over a few inches and laid it into the dado with a piece of mylar packing tape in it and then built up the first 5-6 inches out of biax strips cut so one axis lay in as uni in epoxy and let it set up under tight clamp pressure. Never broke it again... Theory being that the straight unidirectional extruded batten has no strength except in tension... Adding a little fiber going different directions by the batten car gives it a little bit more strength when the boom rises and tries to jam the batten through the mast track. You get a stress riser, and the fiber bundle explodes... We had end of boom sheeting with a 10 foot long traveler and sending the traveler down meant less batten popping than easing the mainsheet. The boat didn't have a vang of any sort as we were running for charter. Cheers
  8. What is the brace made of, how big a cockpit, and how long a brace do you want. Do you have a slick painted waterway down the center that will be covered by the brace or is it going over non non-skid? In either case, removing down to the epoxy is a lot like work and unless you are going to glass and tab back in to paint it like it has always been a part of the boat, it'd be longer weekend job to do that, and for not a whole lot of benefit. My two cents, assuming you want a little raised pyramid the length of the cockpit to catch a toe... is to use Teak and using pre-drilled mounting holes on 6 inch centers in it for screw holes to prick the deck for marking works fine. use a drill press. I like to use 1/4-20 hardware, as the drill bit and tap are just big enough to be tough. You can either recess the heads in an oversized hole, recess the heads in a plug size hole, or leave them flush. Nobody cares so long as the layout of the holes make sense. If you plug the holes, the next paintjob you will more than likely need to make a new piece if you get tear out removing the plugs. Catch22... Either easily removable for paint, or make another. I use the prick mark to drill a 5/8 hole through the top skin with a forstener bit so it doesn't tear the skin, and make the base of the web of the brace an inch wide or wider. 5/8 makes a wide enough opening that if stuff warps overnight... you can still hit thickened epoxy. 1/2 gives an 1/8th a side or you are tapping polyester top skin. Scoop out the core around it with an hex key in a drill. Cast the hole full of thickened epoxy with milled glass or cotton fiber. Doesn't have to be perfectly flush to the top, just burp all the air out by filling from the bottom up with a syringe and stir well. Lay the piece back down, prick the thickened epoxy with the point of a drill bit through the teak and either run a tap through the same hole from the top with a drill # drill bit, and follow with a machine screw. You may need a bottoming tap if the core isn't very thick. If you need to, you can order sizes other than what are off the shelf from mcmaster carr. You can use a drill motor to power tap, just make sure your tap threads has a tape mark on the side to go deeper than your screws need so they bottom out against the head not the bottom of the hole. Done that way you can go without any bedding compound at all if you want and the piece is removable for the next paintjob. If I do that, I'll back the screws out one by one and dip them into epoxy to fill any voids. Yeah you'll get some dirt under there that if you hit with a high pressure water hose it'll blast around, but its a cockpit sole. If you put a bead of sealant of pretty much anything else down and want to remove it at a later date, you've got a problem. Even butyl tape leaves a stain...
  9. Building a boat

    I wasn't so much saying change the design, but you may change the "plan" you choose after your mock up. There are a lot of unfinished projects in the world because when you finally walk through them, you go, Hmm... This wasn't what I thought I was going to end up with, and then folks don't want to invest the next thousand hours and tens of thousands of dollars to get them in the water, when what they've built wasn't what they wanted. I've sat on the gallon paint pail on a roughed out cabin sole, and for lack of room... scrapped the boat, flat packed it to the land fill. It didn't fit what I needed and didn't have value as it sat. Kicked off epoxy can't be scraped back up and recycled for the next project, and short of a few bulkhead plywood pieces, nothing about a boat hull is recyclable into the next size up... You can't add 6 inches to every berth, and a foot of length to the salon so you can have a galley counter top, and a foot to the head so you can wipe your ass without leaning sideways, and 3 inches of freeboard so you can stand up with your shoes on. Some of that stuff is only readily apparent once the deck goes on... The design plan as you have it, normally has a designer with a lot of time invested in the best use, only use, of the space available. Reaching a bit to try to add space doesn't work very well in that inches make feet and directly you lose something huge for the lack of inches elsewhere.
  10. Building a boat

    Mock it up the interior in plywood and chip board before you get started. I've bought and rebuilt a few that could have been a foot wider in beam and 6 inches more in headroom once the cabin soles go back in. Nothing sucks more than a settee you can't lean back in because your head hits the cabin sides...
  11. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Looks like a nice setup! Is that a 2:1 main halyard, or just a very beefy topping lift I'm seeing? I dropped the masthead back off with the machinist, going to end up with a 1/2 inch plate top plate to hang a pair of spinnaker blocks off, and add a welded bit under the sheaves so they can be changed without dropping them down the mast. Do you guys have any input on compression sleeves for cap shrouds through bolts? I've got the new shrouds made already in the old length, so the thought is to move down a foot and change to cut of the swages off and go with a mechanical end fittings at a shorter length. Everything we've been talking about for mounting the cap shrouds using the old location/length involves thinking outside the box a bit and a lot of machine work to do, as the stainless strap tangs welded to the top of the old masthead don't convert readily into aluminum. Cheers, Zach
  12. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Got down to the mast over the weekend and widened the slot for the new pieces. Still have a bit of trimming to do to fit it to the welds.
  13. Wonder if you could drill a hole through the cap for a return line to drop into...
  14. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Indeed. That is one that we've been wrestling with as the aluminum masthead would take a bit of work to put the cap shrouds in the same place. We've talked about machined aluminum blocks bolted on, and slots with toggles hanging through as the bent tang welded to the top of the stainless masthead doesn't translate well to aluminum. I've already got the new standing rigging ready to go, so I'm debating hanging a tang/ gusset plate a foot or so down from the top of the mast and cutting off the ends of the shrouds to replace the swages with norseman fittings. Thanks for the feedback, Zach
  15. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Top view of the new masthead. Forestay clevis pin is 4 inches forward of the mast wall. Top plate is 8 inches wide by 19 long for scale... Thanks, Zach