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About Zach

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  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Sailing, Motorcycles, world travel.

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  1. Zach

    Winch pads, UHMW or Delrin?

    Something I've found rather handy for making cast epoxy blocks, is to go to the kitchen isle at walmart and stare at the glassware section til you find something the right shape if you turn it upside down. Walmart is better than your own kitchen, because if you need three of something you can buy three instead of having one that is perfect and making a casting then getting tempted to make a mold off the casting when you discover that bowl was the last one on earth of the right size... Wax the inside of the glass, mix up your goop and work the air out of it in the glass and let it kick off. The next day, smack it with a hammer inside a trash can and you've got a part that releases out of the mold easily without care for draft angles, and with no sanding because it is dead slick. Just don't cast polycarbonate in a pyrex baking dish on your bbq grill... Didn't know pyrex exploded if the temperature changes quickly, opened the lid for a peak and when I shut it... CABOOM. Not a piece of glass bigger than a tooth pick, and a ball of semi-molten plastic that wasn't quite on fire...
  2. Zach

    Fairing SC27 rudder

    About the only speed tip, is don't long board in 80 if you can find 60. 80 is on the edge of smoothing, 60 you are still fairing, and 40 you are shaping. I use 3M dry guide coat or west systems graphite smeared on the surface. Once you are in primer, denatured alcohol and a dash of green food coloring works well. Once you have template good, pattern good areas put some tape over them or prime them with interlux interprotect and lock them down as good. A lot of folks will chase their own tail by not working in station lines and going over and over, sanding outside the lines things that are already fixed and good. That takes a lot of extra effort. Fairing just means getting things flat, and in the right plane. If it is curved, it means wasting down to the fairest curve you can get and building up the lows... And has nothing to do with sanding until you end up with a smooth surface. Only two camps, screeding on the putty with a trowel or metal bar wide enough to span onto good station lines, or over-filling every low spot so it is a bleeding high spot and knocking it down flush the the surrounding area. One, you scuff with 80 grit and prime... The other you rock out with 40 grit until it is fair. If you over fill and sand with 80 grit, you don't get fair except by accident. A foot and a half sheet rock trowel pulls a slight curve to it that feathers in the edges. That is what it is made to do. It is meant to go over the top of a lump, and pull a tapered fill to each side of the tape on a sheet rock joint on a wall no one gives a shit about if it is flat or not in egg shell paint. A piece of angle iron or 3 inch wide 1/4 inch aluminum flat bar is fucking flat as a screed. Most people use a sheet rock trowel, flexible knife, and pull a slick... The slick ends up low in the middle, unless you over fill it so the edges so they are bleeding high spots that you have to work your ass off to feather in. Otherwise you end up with a low hollow in the middle of the low spot and a taper in that needs filling. Using a flat bar wide enough to span the whole shooting match to pull means you can't put any more into the hole than what it takes to fill it. Wider is better, until you are fixing holidays, finger prints, and drag marks. Then just big enough to cover the holiday and a big blob on top to account for shrink back rules the day. If you go finer than what you are boarding with on a DA, you can DA until the board scratches disappear and get a fresh look at things. With fresh paper, a 2 foot by 2 foot area doesn't take long to get a clean canvas as you aren't sanding a flat surface but one that is already heavily grooved. Most folks can work until they kill themselves pushing a board, and if things are too rough folks can't feel the difference between a low spot, and a textured spot that the board kisses only one direction. Unless you have an orbital air file, almost no one board sands without throwing power at it, heavily, at alternating intervals when fairing. World is split when you get past 180 grit... Some folks board sand to completion, but almost nobody does 40 grit work purely by hand. Gist is, if the 80 grit paper cuts a scratch depth and 40 grit cuts a scratch depth. You remove the depth of the 40 grit scratches when you sand them off... But that means you can in effect "measure" how low your lows are. If you don't have many lows, or many highs, and you are trying to work out the surface and get it flat, going coarser does the job better if you have more than one material visible. Soft stuff doesn't sand the same as hard stuff, and you can't sand hard and soft stuff with fine sand paper without, never, finishing until you eventually put a glaze over the surface thick enough just to scuff and prime and sand out as one material. Primer is a surfacing agent. Interlux Interprotect in grey is self guide coating. If you have enough material on to not cut through to the base material, you can cut with the hand board and see the surface of what the board touches and does not touch, and DA around where you aren't making contact to lower the whole area. Until you get squeedgee fair, where you are pulling the final skim with a 6 inch squeedgee and just putting a glaze on to smooth out before priming... You don't lose much ground by slicking out to take a look at things. The worst of your low spots will still have hand board marks, as the DA can't fit the low spots that are that low either. If you have places like that, keep on sanding with coarse grits until you get shape... Then putty the whole damn thing up in a thin skim and smooth it out. with fine grits. The Hand board cuts grooves, and unless you cross off the surface, more grooving the same direction as the rest of the grooves doesn't cut material very quickly. A DA cutting a harshly grooved surface, makes quick work of smoothing. You can speed up hand boarding small knots and high spots by using a 40 grit block and rough scuffing vertical and horizontal over them, and hand boarding the 45's until the 40 grit scratches are off... But if you find that useful, you really shouldn't be in 80 grit yet. Most folks are well served by not trying to 80 grit to get shape, until they are ready to mix primer. Even if you back up and punt on a few places, it is faster not to try to jump ahead in grits and get smooth before you are straight. Stuff that doesn't cut down high knots, smooths them out but you have to kill yourself to get them gone. About a third of the time you spend hand with a 16 inch board, ought to be vertical work instead of just working your crosses. Verify that you've got a consistent thickness, by working the vertical and if you don't have kiss-contact around the areas you've been pkcing on to get shape... You've got shape, but that shape is low. I use a silcone 3M half mask and P100 pink cartridges for general grinding and the activated carbon ones for working in fresh material. Thickster latex or vinyl gloves make a big difference in getting out of the fiberglass itch as grinders throw glass at high speed into the back of your hands...
  3. I think it would be neat, if someone made a Morse control cable operated valve. Something with a control arm on it, and a guide for the cable all mounted together. May have to do some studying.
  4. Zach

    Drag behind speed sensor

    Take a look at these...
  5. Zach

    single burner camp stove multi-gimballed

    I've always thought this was a neat design for a home build.
  6. Had a buddy that worked in a shop that used soda bottles for flotation. Owner wanted an extra fuel tank. Was there... Cut the hole, lifted the cockpit sole. Reaches in and says... "Hey this ones mine, last one I threw in!"
  7. Zach

    What To Do With This Cabin Sole

    If you aren't married to wood finish. Paint it. If you have any oil soaked areas, start solvent washing them today... Something around a Seattle Grey bright sides cut 50/50 with Matterhorn white would be a lighter grey than what you have painted on the hull sides and would make the boat look older, and bigger, than she is inside. A little bit of grey, and a little bit of blue makes it easier to hide a little bit of dirt... If you use a dash of interdeck, and enough flattening agent that it rolls out as flat, it'll still be slick finished but hide a foot print. Bilge Kote grey and white cut 50/50 ends up being about the same color as Herreschoff did on a lot of soles, but it is slick stuff. A lot of folks use Kirby Paints that are straight oil base, as the color cards are damn near the same as Interlux/Awlgrip. Sandstone and Prarie Beige look good beside white, but beside grey they'd be a clash. White and cream are harder to keep up. Black works, maroon, and dark dark green work if you have a lot of brass accents... but you probably don't have enough light for it not to feel like a cave. It'll also feel a lot smaller inside. You can true up some of the chewed up areas with west systems 407. There isn't anything inherently wrong with some wear that changes the depth of the grooves in places... That is just character, but chipped out and missing bits you can fill in once just to keep it easy to maintain, in that if there aren't any big low spots you can dance a sander over the area once ever 3 years and roll a fresh coat on. Once it is painted you can use 3M scotchbrite pads on the grooves before a repaint. The gist is you can use a 4 inch brush, and put a light coat of paint on that gets into the grooves, then the next coat roll a light coat on and tip along the grooves with the brush. That keeps stuff looking sharp. It takes a little sanding of the grooves clean out your old varnish. A plastic squeedgee with sticky backed sandpaper over it does a good job. I use a pencil line to draw where I've sanded. You can either work one line from end to end, or work a 2x2 foot area sitting on a 1 gallon paint can... Then move along. The easiest way to get a clean edge around the outside, is to put a tape line on and sand down the existing grey that you have and pull a 2-3 inch tape line onto the new painted floor, then repaint the grey around the hull. That way you get a break that isn't on the absolute edge, don't need any corner trim and you have room for tape on a flat surface. That makes a repaint a very easy thing. Taping the hull with all the angles and twist and round, is a little harder. You can do polyester and mat tab 2-3 inches wide so it doesn't kill out onto the beaded floor.... or just a fairing pull of epoxy to fill around it. If you don't try to taper up onto the hull at all, and just fill the grooves 2-3 inches wide around the edge, you get something that is very easy to work with. That gives you something wide enough to have a crisp edge and somewhere to break the paint, as well as a little bit of a seal on the end grain to keep condensation from dripping down behind the sole. Try your best not to epoxy coat the whole thing, as most single part paints have issues curing successfully over epoxy that isn't a month or two old, even if you sand it. I normally lean towards Awlgrip 545 for primer, just because it damn sure will cure every time no matter what. Nothing stops you from using porch paint and the like... But on a cabin sole you need a few box fans to keep the air turning over for it to cure up and 2-3 days before you walk on it if you do a heavy coat. If you stick to brightsides or Interdeck type stuff you can always get another quart that is in the ball park of what you have if you want to patch in a bit.
  8. Occasionally cleaning stuff like this up with a grinder... You can put one disk facing upward, and one disk facing downward with a few sandwiched in the middle to stiffen up the pack. No backer pad, so you can grind the underside of stuff. The guard on and grind top and bottom in and out to blow the foam, resin, and other crap out of the way on the underside of the armature web. Looks weird, but grinding steel welds with a metal grinding disk nobody cares if you use the top or bottom, but a grit disk looks strange rigged that way, under side of hatches on deck and deck recore lets you grind the underside of the bevel for new core. Keep your fingers and toes attached please. A multi-tool or sawzall can cut a groove to get the disk into and get started. I've got a 5 amp cheapo grinder, that you can hold on tight enough to stall. If you've got a router foot switch, or make a light switch box with a power plug beside a light switch you can add a bit of safety back to the ordeal. But doing it that way turns an all day job with a multi-tool into a dust storm that gets finished up quickly. If you've got an air compressor, a right angle grinder with Roloc grinding disks helps for the detail work. The kitty hair should be available at an auto parts store along side the bondo and body fillers. Basically just long-strand fiberglass milled into a polyester resin in a quart can... Catalyzes with cream hardener. Grab a can of it and a can of regular bondo. I use both quite a bit for taking off shapes, as a 3/8ths thick blob of it cataylzed slowly on top of a piece of painters tape or mylar makes a perfect copy of the radius you are aiming to extend. Blob of it around 4 inches long, ground to fit your hand after it kicks off turns into a hand sanding tool that lets you work a little easier. Makes for some lazy sanding, but on stuff that has a lot of shape it beats what you can do with 40 grit paper stuck to a stir stick. Bondo isn't all that strong, so you can use it as a temporary tack weld if for a jig and fixture. Basically rough in a 3x3 to hold your rudder on the table top mix up a softball size blob of bondo and spread it thick over your jig and drop the rudder skin down onto it. In ten minutes you've got a female holding jig that doesn't rock all over the place, that you don't have to shim, and can hammer it loose. Painters tape works, as a release agent... but if you are doing any gluing work sometimes just leaving the bondo to kick off and grab a hold of the skin isn't terrible either. Another that you will want to know, is you can take 1/2 inch plywood and rough shape it to the U of the front of the rudder and pack the opening full of regular bondo to take off your lines. A piece of sticky sandpaper stuck to the rudder, lets you sand it and putty a second time for a perfect fit without spending a lot of time working it down with a jig saw to make a template. If you work it till you get a sharp edge, you can even pull your filler with it so long as you work clean enough to make your transitions between the tapers. Over fill, and tilt the U until it makes contact as tight as it'll go, and pull up until it stops... Then switch to the next size. Takes a few minutes, but if you get your first pull clean you don't over-fill everything and have to sand for a year to get back down to the correct shape. If you turn the guides upside down on the same spot and they don't fit, you've got something that isn't round and the centerline of your rudder is off center, with two different radius on each side of a flat spot. That doesn't necessarily make one low, just that one can be high. I like to glass rudders with the leading edge held vertical where I can walk around them. Wooden ones you can clamp right to the studs of the wall in the shop. Glass ones takes a bit of jig-work to hold vertical. Peel ply helps. If you have an air compressor, an autobody air file makes real quick work of working down the leading edge and dealing with getting the taper back trued up. Get your vertical reference points figured out before you address your horizontal ones. Vertical first you get your radius in the correct spot, and the maximum draft of the rudder profile can't be higher than the maximum... Beating it down smooth on the horizontal plane with a grinder and DA doesn't take the high spots out of the vertical plane and gets you adding filler to things that, while they are low spots... Wouldn't be if the taper was true, and once you putty up... You end up far from symmetrical. If you can hang it somehow from the ceiling this gets easier so you can see both sides from the front like the water will. You can do the same work with a 16 inch hand board and 40 grit. Gist being going that way is a can of cheap spray paint, hit the spot being picked on until the spray paint disappears and then DA 40 grit until the paint is gone around it and re-check. Most folks have trouble working raw glass fair, and will grind low spots into stuff around high spots. Throwing a coat of Interlux 2000 on and coming back the next day sometimes is a solution just to have something to look at. Doesn't take a whole lot of material, and can solve the issue of sanding different colors harder than others, and gives you something to write on... Look into how to "Winding Sticks" work. If stuff isn't doing what it is supposed to sticks longer than the plane you are working to fix they will be out of alignment. Bright light, and an eye looking for gaps will show you the high spots. Your Rudder profile gauge can fits both side, but would show you aren't symmetrical if you had one showing the cross section that slip fit and checked both sides at the same time. Basically, still fucking high compared to the rest of the blade... Rolling a florescent light bulb across the blade vertically can show you some of the higher high spots, as it'll wobble. Profile gauge can fit, but it is still going to be high if you putty up everything else to sand out into that area, and when you get it primed up and really look at it you'll see a pancake flat spot 12 inches wide around it... Where your blade has a hard break, and fattens up to its root... its going to be a pain in the ass to keep it low enough there that you can true up the rest without wanting to putty up and fatten the leading edge all over the place. If you deliberately keep it low and don't putty up the 2-3 inches beside that hard break, until the rest of the blade is done... You can come back with a smear of putty and finish it. Otherwise every sanding cycle that you don't take it "ALL" back out of there will give you a reading to add more material at the top. The lazy way is to leave the transition point low and spot fill when you are in 80-120 grit everywhere else... Might not be dead nuts perfect in the transition, but you'll have better performance from having a symmetrical blade below it. Cheers, Zach
  9. Zach

    Source for angled hawse pipes?

    Hi Moonduster, Anchor is a Rocna 73lb, 3/8 Chain about 200 feet +/- is what I'm thinking for length. We are aiming Maine to Florida keys cruising range. The Chain will be going over an anchor roller. With Maine in the summer, the harbors closest to town don't have great holding for anchors so they set a mooring field, laying on a mooring ball with the anchor stowed is part of the design goal. The new plumb stemmed stuff, has the same issue with being narrow. They just put a wee small cleat right slam on the edge of the deck and get around this... it seems like a sin against humanity to do that to this boat boats sheer line. Yes, the chock is a port side chock... Just showing how little room there is to get out of the anchor roller channel. Plywood is just there to help mock up and have something to catch a screw, and figure out how far back I need to build a pedestal to catch a chain stopper in line with the windlass. Cheers, Zach
  10. Zach

    Source for angled hawse pipes?

    This would be the trick pony I'm looking for... Basically any conventional fairlead or chock that is meant to mount on top of the deck, or in my case bulwark still gives me the same exit point as a regular chock unless I recess it. Then it has to be aft of my anchor roller, and not a real fair lead to a mooring. Lioness, I'm real hesitant to cut down the top of the toe rail and cut in for recessed chocks like you see those mounted at deck level. She's 3/4 of an inch thick glass on the top of the bulwark and seems like giving up a lot of strength. Doing a recessed mount like what Hinkley does with a big ass piece of chromed bronze is the perfect fix... But I have what I have to work with, as the stem fitting is a new piece of stainless. She's a bit odd duck in that the deck dropped over an over-turned flange making the toe rail... Then the outside edge got cut down, rounded over and glassed back the other way... With the underside of the deck tabbed to the hull making a hollow void for my backing plates to fall into. Water tight, but not possible to maintain anything.... I had to open her up to get the old backing plates out, and need to do some glass work to add to add a bit of beef to catch the rear bolt for my anchor roller. That opened up the opportunity to study running a pair of hawse pipes through. I may stop in and see a fabricator buddy and see if it is something he'd take on. Zonkers, I hear you on the Seadog stuff. Hit and miss on how well thought out it is. I've had good luck with their yacht cleats. Had a pair of 18 inch ones on the bow of a wooden yacht I was redoing. It was laying on 1 1/8th poly-dac and broke the dolphin of three 12 inch green heart pilings above the waterline in a hurricane. We were sharing the dolphin with a hundred foot steel yacht and my bow cleat turned into its stern line. Shocked me, but I put them on with shaft strut bolts on a brand new deck and everything stayed put... Good stuff. Zach
  11. For alignment, don't discount that you can use a blob of kitty hair or tiger hair body filler to locate the stock back relative to the skins. Basically chew out a few areas of the foam, excavating style... then mix up a blob of the goop with a piece of packing tape on the web of the stock so it doesn't bond to it. That sets your depth and location to key back together. Cheers, Zach
  12. Hi Guys, I'm curious if anyone has a source for angled through bulwark hawsepipes. Similar to what the yacht Dorade has in her bow? Rather than straight through style, they are canted forward so the line doesn't have as bad of a chafe point to a mooring. I'm putting a bow roller on my Luders 44, which has a similar stem shape to Dorade... The idea would be to move the mooring lines Under the damn anchor roller might keep me from having yet another chafe point, as the line off the cleat wouldn't have to go up 7 inches off the deck to the top of the toe rail, then back down a radius tight enough that it chews grooves in the outside of the toe rail on its way down to the mooring line. When I sanded the paint off she's got 7 or 8 different faired in battle scars from lines and chain that have tried to cut into her bulwarks. Cleats on the toe rail suck. I've got the bow opened up to reattach the backing plates that dropped into no-mans land when I pulled the original stem fitting, so I'm sitting in my thinking chair... Hard for a mooring line to jump out of a solid ring of bronze, and given she's off the design board of 1939 they wouldn't look totally out of place. Thanks, Zach
  13. Zach

    Tohatsu 3.5 hp outboard motor

    Question... Do the carburetor jets plug up, or do the flaots hang up? Curious if the jets are removable on the carb, wonder if you couldn't go up a size and see if they tolerate a bit more gunk? Sort of gunk down to sizing instead of plugging.
  14. Zach

    Navy Luders 44 - Alert

    Nice! I've got a 1964 Annapolis 44 down in Beaufort, NC doing a refit on her.
  15. Zach

    Anyone used Kiwigrip and removed it?

    I haven't used it yet... Gist is, I ground the nonskid off an 80 foot trawler once that was blasting sand in rubber mastic paint... Basically tough enough stuff that it ripped the grit off sandpaper. Trying not to pick an easy way that ends up being a very large pain in the butt at a later date!