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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About fufkin

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  1. One other thing...re your moth infestation. Even though winter stored under a canvass cover, I've twice had bees(Yellowjackets?)nests form over the winter in the anchor well, and they got in through a similar sized hole. The first time we managed to get the whole thing out with a bucket and no nest killer, a few years later I wimped out and resorted to the nest killer...now I do my best to remember to tape this hole as part of the winterization regimen. Tape comes off during sailing season. I think the bail is aftermarket and the original use was...lift anchor off roller, open lid, drop anchor in under deck, close lid and make chain taught between windlass and the small hole in the lid, using the hole as a lockdown.
  2. Ventilation? It's really important to have robust ventilation out of the chain locker. You will have a drain hole at the bottom of the locker so a little water in is expected but moisture out might be why you wouldn't want to close it? The other thing is that the opening is the right size to lock the chain sideways.This locks the remaining chain between the windlass and the locker lid in place while you stow the anchor while underway for longer periods(bluewater) when you might not need/want the anchor on the bow. Best guess.
  3. Coolboats to admire

    This one makes me think someone should develop a Hot/Crazy matrix for boats. She's off the charts in the looks department but...just what am I gettin myself into here...
  4. Was initially thinking you'd need 3x your 10hp but threw out a guess of 18hp...should've gone with my first instinct. Here is a Fisher25 equipped with Volvo Penta 28hp. Pretty cool little boat...but again...I'd think twice before fucking around and limping on an underpowered version. http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1977/Fisher-25-Pilothouse-3150991/Maple-Bay/Canada#.WhDEvdTEirU
  5. I think 6.2 ish max knots under power for a 30sh foot boat is a reasonable minimum. Underpowering the boat even slightly and your target max speed plummets quickly by a knot, maybe 1.5 knots. These are guesstimates as there are so many variables. In the pilothouse boat pictured above, your only at 25ft and whatever the waterline is, you've got huge windage issues and I think you'd want to NOT skimp on power. Even max power(I would guess for this boat more like 18 hp?)probably gets you 5.5 knots. I've always thought of the engine as auxiliary and the ability to sail off a lee shore of paramount importance. But there are times, mainly through narrow straits or passages where the current is very strong and tacking through it is probably not going to happen. If you've under powered your boat you'll not be able to punch through a 5knot current. Period.
  6. Blue water cruising books

    'The fundamental things are to keep the water out; keep the boat under control; and keep the boat right-side-up and the rig intact. The engine is a sort of luxury item as far as I am concerned. It makes the other luxury items work and it is nice to get through calms, but it is not a necessity'--Warwick Tompkins(over 500,000 miles at sea) This quote from 'Surviving the Storm' by the Dashews, an indispensable 'bluewater' read, is memorable as I think it distinguishes what might be 'necessary' for passage making and what might be 'preferable' as a lifestyle consideration during extended cruising. Relying too much on systems and electronics can become a lesser substitute for basic sea sense and sailing skills. That said, I don't think anyone would dispute that a major part of good seamanship is preventative maintenance.
  7. Hard vs soft dinghy

    If it looks like money, sails like money, rows like money, stows like money, all at 85lbs...it's gonna cost some money.
  8. Mast or boom furling?

    hopefully they got the memo to not put a massive clew board on the furling jib . I don't know if it was stock, the rigger, miscommunication with sailmaker and owner, or whatever, but some guy pulled up next to my slip with a brand new Hanse 40 something last year and the furler with clew board-unable-to-make a proper wrap?...Had to scratch my head on that one...
  9. Keel Blocks Winter Storage

    The next time you take a walk around the boatyard, look at the variety of cradles, and specifically where on the hull the pads are placed. Some cradles seem to put the pads further toward the bottomof the hull, some a little more up the side of the hull. The hull shape will often define the limitations/possibilities of the cradle design, unless your going with movable stands, which will be open to the interpretation of the yard/owner. I'm not sure you can generalize the effect of point loading with a basic equation because of this variety of pad placement. A cradle/hull shape configuration with bottom of the hull bias will hold more weight on the pads than a side-of-the-hull pad placement(which should hold very little and are there for balance), If you've got a 'side-biased' pad placement and the keel is not blocked properly,, the pads holding the hull will have a compression effect that you would not have in the water. If you've ever been on a boat on the hard where the companionway is sticky, it is because the 'side-biased' pads are holding more weight than they should because the keel has been improperly blocked.
  10. Keel Blocks Winter Storage

    Like H20 is saying wouldn't be a bad idea to contact the builder/designer or other owners. No such thing as a stupid question...and you never know with some of these keels with such a small root/contact point to the hull. You could also track down the guys who set the boat and see what they've gotta say. 'Be interesting to see what you come up with. I'm still betting on blocking the keel though.
  11. Sailing art

    Sloop, if you find yourself back in Toronto some time, this is an absolute must see for anyone into nautical history. http://www.ago.net/thomson-collection-ship-models
  12. Hard vs soft dinghy

    Totally not worth arguing the point. But I'd say that to characterize an SUP as a toy and exercise device with no actual utility for a cruiser is somewhat dismissive. I think it's good as auxiliary and not primary...does that work? Also, aware of what one might need out of a primary dinghy...day to day. In the meantime, here's a positive. https://www.redbull.com/ca-en/kai-lenny-foilboarding-hawaii
  13. Hard vs soft dinghy

    BJ, Read 'alternate' transport. As a 17 year old, myself and two buddies cruised the islands out of Port of Spain Trinidad for about a week with only a windsurfer as shore transport. The only other way was to swim. One night, anchored a few hundred metres offshore from the warm-up party for Sunday's lime'n party, at about 4 a.m. I'd finally had enough and asked my buddies how I could get back to the boat. They looked at eachother, then at me and both said, swim, how else? Having already come accross a seasnake, morae eel and lots of stingrays in the last few days I was really not too enthusiastic about it but did it anyway. I've never, ever swam faster since that day. So that's where I learned to windsurf, and I'd say outperforming a small rib in chop upwind for a couple of miles with the right board is not a problem. An SUP, maybe not. But that's not my point. The SUP can pay dividends in a lot of ways and keeping your dollars from getting soggy or your phone waterproof is absolutely zero problem, even if you wipeout. Most SUP's will not flip if you fall off, and can easily carry a secure waterproof bag. So, dispatching enthusiastic crew for small shoreside errands is not a problem. When cruising in larger groups, if you can cut a couple of people loose right after anchoring, you've immediately got a couple of dedicated SUP scouts to check the shoreline, beach whatever. Come morning, you will have willing shoreside couriers for whatever your needs might be. If the conditions don't merit it, go to the main rib. As far as going into 3 to 4 ft chop upwind for a couple of miles in a 10-12 foot rib that's gonna suck as well when you get to a certain point. Even in 18ft w console and 75hp things can get a little uncomfortable. Once you get up to 25ft or so the right rib will eat choppy conditions for breafeast, but most cruisers can't carry that or an 18ft. So briefly, how 'reliable' your means of shoreside transport is might be a matter of skill and opinion. Just don't call it useless.
  14. Keel Blocks Winter Storage

    Basically keeping your mast up over the winter says either you don't give a fuck...or alternatively, you don't give a fuck. It's not just the windage or the moisture through the mast which are both great points, but the fact that the windage will result in compounded stresses on the rig in an immobile cradle as opposed to in the water where there is a 'give' factor. Oh yeah, almost forgot, what about tipping in whiskey?
  15. Hard vs soft dinghy

    I used to run a Protector rib here and there. 27ft, hardtop with twin 150s.A real beauty. I'm pretty sure it was manufacturers recommendation (but can't recall %100, who can?), but it was standard to deflate the pontoons fully for road transport. I kind of hear what your saying about bending the glued seams on the actual pontoon when deflated(especially cold storage)but as best as I recall, the deflating for transport was thought to be easier on the pontoon-to-rigid hull glued seam. Anyway, these pontoons were fully replaced every 7 or 8 years. As for my own humble Zodiac 10ft(?) with 9 h.p., I've cold stored it, outdoor but covered, semi-deflated during winter for years and never had a problem. Haven't even used it for the last couple of seasons and am looking more towards a nesting/sailing dinghy...really liking the look of the PT11....and looking forward to ditching the outboard. As an aside, though it's not a dinghy, I'm gonna give a shout out to the inflatable stand up paddle board as a great alternate means of shore transport for cruisers. I think two of them should be standard equipment. For anybody who windsurfs, you can get dual purpose, and there's even a model out there with a daggerboard(essential for upwind maneuvering in an anchorage). These things would surprise most sceptics.