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About Passport111

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  1. Passport111

    Easylock Midi replacement

    @Alex W thanks for the feedback. I'm hoping with the 10mm line the 8-10mm clutch will work well if I go with Lewmar. My one concern with Lewmar is how well the line runs both when tailing a spin hoist or with a fast drop. Is there much friction in your experience?
  2. Passport111

    Easylock Midi replacement

    I've read up a bit more and think I'm between the Lewmar D2 and the Spinlock XCS. Would the XTS be enough? The latest posts I could find here were from 2015. Any updates?
  3. Passport111

    Easylock Midi replacement

    The handle of one of my EasyLock clutches was just broken. It is the old style and I'm not finding any replacements. RigRite even says they have nothing for the old style. So, it looks like I'll have to replace. There are 2 sets of 3 packs so 6 clutches on this side of the cabin top in front of a 28 winch; the side where all the halyards go that are run back. 2 x jib, 2 x spin. So I could probably go down to 4 or 5 clutches. (PO said he had a great deal on the 6 pack) What are thoughts on replacement, Lewmar, Spinlock, Antal, etc.? Pros/cons if you know. The boat is a 36' racer/cruiser and I've downsized lines over the past couple years as the existing needed replacement so they are all 3/8". Jib are yale crystalyne and Spin are Sampson MLX.
  4. Passport111

    Alternatives to Marinco solar powered vent.

    I have the older Nicro and they still work. But I hate the fact that they leak like a sieve. I called Nicro and they don't make the seal for the old one any more (surprise). Any ideas on how to get the damn thing to stop leaking?
  5. Passport111

    Cruising Lake Superior

    Maybe I was a bit off on the day and I don't know about Duluth per se but overall the region was warm. This link shows very warm temps that year for Milwaukee in March. The Mac race that year was brutally hot too. We swam in the Manitous on the delivery back and it was "warm".
  6. Passport111

    NEMA Errors, B&G 508 Wind Sensor

    Looking back that is quite the rant. I finally got through to B&G and they are sending new unit. It is still very disappointing that my current rate is one sensor per season. Hopefully the third time is the charm. I also hope that it is in fact the sensor and not the cable.
  7. Passport111

    Cruising Lake Superior

    We bare boated the Apostle islands 5-6 years ago. It was the year that it was like 70 F on March 2nd and never cooled down again. I remember because I went skiing at Powderhorn in the UP with Friends the last week in Feb. and got a foot of fresh powder, The next week the snow was gone and it was hot. The point is, we did the Apostles in late August and from that early Spring and warm Summer, the Lake Superior water was like a nice pool. The kids swam off the boat all day. The Apostles were awesome. There were so many great anchorages and everything is so close together. It is a nice option if you want to do a lot in a little time.
  8. Passport111

    NEMA Errors, B&G 508 Wind Sensor

    So we just launched the boat yesterday for the season. I "upgraded" from old Signet to the B&G Triton system 2 years ago (3 displays, triducer, wind sensor, and compass from KVH via Actisence). Its great when it works. Unfortunately it has been rife with issues since I purchased. To start, the first wind sensor, which was replaced under warranty, was full of water before the end of the first season. So this year I get a 7" Vulcan and I'm excited to play with it. After we motor over to the slip I hook up all the wiring for the NEMA network, mast lights, etc. and power up the bus. There is no data whatsoever on the Triton displays. I check sources and there is nothing there either. I run diagnostics and there or hundreds of Rx and Tx errors. I get heading intermittently and the Bus "on"/"off" is going back and forth between being on and off. The Actisense is also showing light indication of network issues. I decided to start running a process of elimination and start buy disconnecting the wind sensor and plugging in a terminator. Problem solved. Great, I just Fing launched and have to deal with a problem 50 F'ing feet in the air and the damn cable that runs between. Any suggestions on what this could be? Any other trouble shooting? I'm not holding my breath with B&G customer service. I few weeks ago when I was trying to get a part number so I could give them more of my friggin money it took 3 weeks before they called me back.
  9. Passport111

    Commander 31 Bianca

    Don't know this boat and as mentioned it was an early Bianca and early Kjaerulff design so performance and accommodation is a function of the time but it is what it is. However we have a mid-80s Bianca 111 that was of the Kjaerulff/Elvstrom era and the build quality is excellent.
  10. Passport111

    Longitudinal Rudder movement

    So the machine shop did a great job. The mocked everything up in CAD and then even made a prototype out of aluminum. After 33 years, about .003 wear. The Danes did it right Sexy... I picked up the bronze version last Wednesday. Got dry ice on the way home and cold soaked it in the freezer overnight in dry ice. This was advice from the one other person I've known to do this. Another friend with experience with these things and the machine shop said "she'll slide right in". The deed was to be done Thursday night. I was nervous as shit. Well it slid right in until it didn't; about 2/3 of the way in. I gave it several good whacks with a 2lb dead-blow hammer on a block of wood but no was not budging. Crestfallen, depressed, mad, etc. I can't begin to say how wrapped up I was about this whole job and then for it not to go well was a real blow. Frosty and stuck. Now to set up the tool I made again and spend 30 minutes jacking this out ~1/32" per turn. Shit. So I emailed the machine shop. Dropped it off the next day. That day they added a little bit more of a taper (draft they called it) to the top end end then just sandpapered the rest as they said they didn't want to take much more off and that it should fit. Ok, so what they hell am I going to do to get this thing in. I had lost confidence that the dry ice was going to do it. The one thing I would have wished was that the machine shop or someone could have just done the calculations with the press fit delta and shrinkage of the bronze at "x" temp. The numbers are the numbers and that would have giving me confidence. I started looking up the formulas but realized it would take some doing to get all the inputs and I needed to get this done. And it is done all the time with different application. So what could improve my chances? Liquid nitrogen. How do I get that? I though it would be tougher but I called a local Praxair welding supply and they said sure just bring in your dewer. My what? Dewer, it a thermos for liquid nitrogen and other really cold compressed gasses. I don't have one and they are really expensive. Luckily the nice man at Praxair said he'd loan me a small one with a gallon of liquid nitrogen. How much is this gonna cost me I ask? 20 bucks. Done. This shit just got serious. Needless to say, I was boosted by the fact that I had the shrinkage power of -321 degree Fahrenheit but still stress beyond believe that this would be successful. We set up, staged, reconnoitered, stared at various things for a while, poked at various bits and basically everything else to on one hand prep, on the other stall. Thankfully they was another boater in working on his charter fishing boat and he and his son had careers doing things of similar ilk. If nothing else they were terrific moral support and another set of hand but I really needed the confidence. My wife was thankful too that she obfuscate her duties as boat surgical staff. Well after soaking the bearing in the liquid nitrogen for a while, and quickly but carefully inserting, it was a bust. I mean it didn't even make it a fifth of the way in. WTF !? I was about to loose my shit. This defies physics. Everyone was stumped. But video analysis provided by my wife who likes to document everything with her phone (thank god in this instance she did) it was irrefutably shown than in a ham-fisted attempt to get the bearing in there quick, I started it way crooked. At least there was an explanation. No pictures, just video with dumbstruck looks and a lot of swearing. So jack it out again but this time much easier as it was only in on the taper. If the guys from the other boat were not there I think I would have called it quits, started looking for answers in the bottom of bottles, and started really worrying about how this was ever going to get done. I'm a doer, have been my whole life and like to figure things out. But, this seemed different as the consequences for fucking up could be very expensive not to mention ruin most of the season. Whats more is it is unknown territory for my thinking perseverates. The other guys there were the boost I needed to have another go at it. Re-cook in the nitro, more prep and tinkering, and some serious warm up of my grip and insertion technique (I know that sounds wrong). This time just a little heat with a heat gun on the stainless sleeve. And, voila! It went in like nothing. No resistance at all. Slid right in until it bottomed out (again, I know). Ah, the joy and relief!!!! Hold for about 2 minutes, done and dusted. Sorry just a pic. There is video but I'm babbling on joyfully like an idiot and on the verge of skipping.
  11. Passport111

    Longitudinal Rudder movement

    @DDW sorry I missed your question. Yes the needle rollers are between the (bottom) bronze race and the stainless rudder shaft. This bearing is in line with the shaft. The top bearing is a race mounted to the aft cockpit seat that is perpendicular to the shaft. Ball bearing sit in this race and then a cap race is placed over it with set screws. Just over that, a 1/2" thick stainless pin goes through the top of the shaft. This provide "never gonna fall out" assurance as well as fitting for the emergency tiller to bear on. The new bottom bearing is in. Story and pics to follow soon.
  12. Passport111

    Spraying the inside

  13. Passport111

    Best access hatch for horizontal mounting?

    @jarcher not sure if you are still looking or what your exact requirements are but take a look at Gebo in the Netherlands. . My boat has these hatches and they (knock on wood) are still totally leak-proof after 32 years. I recently ordered new seals (just because I figured after 32 years preventive maintenance is a good idea) and they are still supported and very helpful. On the other hand, I just bought 2 new Lewmar Ocean Series Hatches (Size 20) to replace the ones that the PO put in (and that were leaking). I am very disappointed in the fit and finish of the Lewmar. I know they can't be all bad as they are so pervasive but I thing there is a lot of stupid in the design which is more about keeping cost down which is not reflected in the price.
  14. Passport111

    Longitudinal Rudder movement

    The said $88 per hour. That is what I thought too. This is Aluminum Bronze so hard but yes, not as hard as SS. A gentlemen from the shop visited me at the boat yesterday to take measurements. Everything was within a couple thousands meaning for all intents and purposes it is round. He checked the rudder shaft past where the bearing rides and the measurements were the same so no deformation. I have to remember that this isn't high speed machinery and that even modern Jeffa plastic bearing are not made to the same tolerance of standard bearings. All in all I was relieved that everything was within spec to make it worthwhile to have the new bearing made. There is definitely visible wear on the inside of the existing bronze bearing so that confirms where things got loose. The existing needle rollers are a thousandth or 2 smaller than the original 6mm (as far as we know that was the original spec). I was on the hunt for new ones but guess how that went. There are hardly any sources for loose needle rollers much less a specific size. When I was quoted some ( a few hundred or so when I only need 30) I was told they are chromium plated hardened steel which won't do well in water. So getting stainless is the next problem. Luckily the machine shop I'm using already does 6mm needles for a customer (SS but not hardened) so they are going to check the hardness of my bearings to see if we can replace them too.
  15. Passport111

    WEMA SSL level sensors - Higher resolution

    Ha. I know the feeling. I'm known to get pretty wrapped up in this stuff to.