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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Tom Keffer

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About Tom Keffer

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    Hood River, Oregon

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  1. Binoculars ?

    +1 They are very popular among birders because of their excellent value. The Athlon Midas is another outstanding value at $289. Whatever you get, make sure they use "ED" lenses, the key to good optics.
  2. AIS to wifi without VHF

    How about the dAISy receiver for $59? It's based on an SDR chip. It won't have the reception of the more expensive units, but should work well in a harbor. Then you have to figure out how to get from its USB to your iPhone. An RPi running a USB to WiFi gateway would probably be the simplest. The vendor even makes a HAT for the RPi, so you don't even need the USB connector. -tk
  3. Svendsen's Boatworks To Close 11/1/17

    This: The Rent is Too Damn High by Matthew Yglesias.
  4. Asym's on boats designed for symetrical kites

    Powder coated welded aluminum. It's not strong enough to hold a big reaching asym, but works quite well with a downwind drifter like a G2 or an A2. -tk
  5. Asym's on boats designed for symetrical kites

    This is how we solved the problem on a J/42.
  6. Girl with patreon account goes sailing in hot place

    The inimitable Christian Williams has a new video out. The perspective of an older man with a copy of Sartre's Being and Nothingness on the bookshelf is always a refreshing contrast.
  7. Sleeping Bag for Offshore Sailing

    I'm not exactly sure what we're arguing over. My point is that I'm sure the "SeaRug" is a great product, but people have been going to sea with a simple synthetic bag for decades and doing fine. I've used a 30 year old North Face bag for more trips up and down the coast than I can remember and it has always served me well. You're better off spending your money on clothing and not a sleeping bag. Port Townsend? I was just there to see the Pacific Flyer at the Shipswrights Co-op. Man, those guys have their work cut out for them!
  8. Sleeping Bag for Offshore Sailing

    Sure they are. Any synthetic bag will work while wet. Maybe not as well as dry, but they can keep you warm. Here's a cheap bag from Marmot that specifically calls out its warmth while wet. I've been colder and wetter while backpacking than I've ever been boating! :-)
  9. Sleeping Bag for Offshore Sailing

    I'm sure they're great, but $240AUD? You can get a top-quality rectangular bag from REI for a third of that price. Just unzip and you have the equivalent.
  10. Sleeping Bag for Offshore Sailing

    Worry about the clothing you're going to wear, not the bag. If you get the right clothing, the bag won't matter. I usually just throw a sheet or blanket over the cushions (to protect them from salt water). Then collapse on them in full foul weather gear. If I get cold, I pull a blanket over me. I've never had to climb into a bag, at least on passage.
  11. Sailing buddy for passage to Barkley/Clayoquot

    There's a pattern to getting out the Straits, based on three rules of thumb I've learned from my 30+ passages to Neah Bay or Barkley Sound. 1. Unless you're a racer, don't go through Race Rocks. It always howls in there. 2. The winds are always strongest east of Jordon River (on the Canadian side) or Pillar Point (on the Washington side). 3. The winds start at about noon, and continue through about midnight, sometimes a bit later. So, start early in the morning (4am is not too early) and try to get to the Sheringham / Jordan River area by 2pm. From there, the winds are rarely much more than 20 knots. By the time you get to Port Renfrew, they'll be even less than that. If you're leaving from an American port, you'll have to go all the way to Ucluelet to check in, so it may be dark by the time you get there. The entrance is very straightforward and can be done by radar, but there can be some crab pots the last few miles. If you leave from a Canadian port you won't have to check in, so you'll have more options. If you can start from Sooke, you'll have to do fewer miles. Otherwise, it's tempting to stop in Port San Juan (Port Renfrew), but the anchorages are very uncomfortable in there. Personally, I prefer to press on and stop in Bamfield, which is closer than Ucluelet. This entrance is even easier, but there can be even more crab pots. Put someone on the bow with a spotlight. It's all worth it. This time of year, Barkley Sound will be thick with humpbacks. Have a great time! -tk
  12. that time of the month

    +1 A lot of my racing is on the Columbia River. There is no substitute for raw speed against its relentless 2 knots of current.
  13. Suggested Waypoints for WA to SF to LA

    Boat's name is Velocity. Right now, it looks like we may be able to leave a few days early, perhaps as early as 31 July. We'll keep an eye out for you! -tk
  14. Drilling/tapping epoxy vs. vinylester filler

    A T-Nut.
  15. J/133 heavy air gybe

    To reduce the shock, use a stretchy line on the traveller. Before starting the gybe, drag the traveller to windward until it's almost on the stop, then suck up the excess line on the leeward side and lock it. Then start the gybe. This will help absorb some of the shock.