LionessRacing

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About LionessRacing

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    Super Anarchist

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  • Location
    Alameda
  • Interests
    club racing, navigation,

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  1. LionessRacing

    How can I tell if my bottom has been faired?

    Marine grade materials are "Damn expensive"... especially when you sand them mostly off and Awl**** is about the most expensive. You don't want to breach the Gelcoat if you can avoid it, IF it's in good condition, no pinholes or cracks... If it's not in good condition, then you would prefer to remove it, and build up as necessary. first step is build your templates and find out if you are fat or skinny, or both. you can use a batten with a friend to hold the other end, and a soft pencil to circle any high regions, or indicate n(arrows pointing toward low? ) where the lows are as a topographic contour. From that you judge are you mostly removing, adding, or a mixture and do the work appropriately, easier to knock down the "proud" bits first and then build uniformly after you get the "divots" depending on the material, temperature and consistency (how much you thin it) you will add a dry film thickness that varies from1-2 mils of 545 up through thicker if you trowel on a fairing compound with a notched applicator and then spread locally. Technique matters and you will start getting good as you start getting done, which is why it may be worth writing a check for someone else's experience. Do the math on the film thickness build for the barrier coats to figure out where your fair surface needs to start, to come in at template and allow for bottom paint.
  2. LionessRacing

    Australian Sailing

    when I was a lad (ca 1970), the RCYC dress code was the most notable on Lake Ontario, you had to wear a coat and tie to board the launch, or sit with the staff & supplies/trash they have moderated a bit... Our Dress Code is designed to balance common sense with consideration for all Members and guests who share the facilities and property. Rather than setting out what to wear, it instead focuses on what is not appropriate to wear. Front of City Clubhouse, RCYC Launch and Front of Island Clubhouse & Front Lawn: No ripped or stained jeans No cut‐off shorts or short shorts No tank tops, muscle shirts, tube tops, or cropped tops No bare feet, wetsuits, or swimwear No track suits, running gear or athletic clothing* No attire displaying slogans, motifs, language or insignias that may be construed as offensive, rude or political No sports hats may be worn inside our Clubhouses
  3. LionessRacing

    Towing or Towed? Sail & Powerboat in ICW/Atlantic?

    Good point. In the ICW, side towing ("whale boat") either way works, with signficant fenders. Using powerboat for tow, especially if it has outdrive/outboard for directed thrust would be easier, just lock sailboat helm at a "trim" position for neutral steering. In the few open water sections, where there would be swells, I would see dropping sailboat back on a line to be a least a wave length behind. As regards the two trips, see above, question is a hypothetical of how to move both simultaneously with one person.
  4. LionessRacing

    Cabin & Deck refurbish: old awlgrip over crazed gelcoat.

    Not to my knowledge. I have sanded Awlgrip with 2000 grit pads to remove some brushmarks and sags and the gloss is acceptable at 3 feet.
  5. LionessRacing

    How can I tell if my bottom has been faired?

    Internet can be your friend Just assume you will likely need to fair after you remove the accumulated coats of paint and get down to a hard surface (Blisters? )
  6. LionessRacing

    Australian Sailing

    There are those opportunities, should the club wish engage to assuage rash issues caused by over emoting about Flag discretion. Alternatively they could simply reduce the amount of excrement by finding more compassionate policies or impeaching the flags with feces touch
  7. LionessRacing

    Australian Sailing

    Requiring crew to join a club, where the owner is a member, just to have the privilege of perhaps parking, walking down the docks, perhaps spending money in the bar & restaurant, and using the toilets/showers seems to miss the point of membership. Membership fees, assessments and assorted dock, galley and entry fees paid by the owner/member should be sufficient to keep the club and racing program solvent. People should see a benefit from membership that's worth the costs, not be mandated to pay it while donating their time to the vessel. We charge $US 15-25 per race (discounted for series) to cover the daily hats and seasonal swag for the podium, and on occasion put out a simple buffet after racing to encourage bar traffic. We encourage entries by members of the YRA (regional Sailing Association) which comes with a regional PHRF certificate, and offer reciprocity to local clubs we recognize. Race committee is a volunteer job, with occasionally some credit given to membership fees. Should you have limited parking, I can see the point of selling parking passes to the member/owner to distribute to the family/crew, and I have bought a few extra dock keys to avoid having to have to meet crew at the gate multiple times per race day. Somebody who shows up as a passenger, or a walk in, to crew has no incremental cost to us other than in possibly toilet supplies. If the costs of toilet supplies are material to your club, I suspect you are doing it wrong.
  8. LionessRacing

    East coast where to move to?

    How much Mountain do you want in your MTB? A couple of big lakes NW of Charleston, if you don't want to sail on the 50+ mile "Grand Strand" on the ocean,
  9. Looking at possibilities for retirement, five years or more out, of having both Lioness and something like an Acadia 25/Parker SC/Ranger Tug as well to host grandkids with. (Wife's voting in favor of a pontoon boat, but same basic idea of a moderate power vessel) Trying to get a sense of feasibility to move both at the same time, singlehanded i.e. severe weather coming in and time to vacate area, or perhaps seasonal relocation between SC and MD. Configurations are either 40' 10 ton ~40 hp sailboat towing ~25' 2 ton 150 hp power boat, or vice versa. An obvious answer: is put the power boat on a trailer, and drive it at 60 mph, vs towing at ~6. Given two people available, that would be a likely choice, one drives, one makes passage. That also assumes a trailer, and places to store it at either end. For a permanent or maybe even a seasonal move that's not out of the question, it allows a rapid over the highway move of a car & boat, and then a slow move (although perhaps faster w/o tow) of the sailboat. But hypothetically you want to move both, on the water at the same time, who leads, who follows? All the navigational light/day signal issues are applicable in either case. Sailboat is better equipped to be overnight with autopilot, navigation, radar etc and would be my default as it's heavier. I've towed up to ~500lb tender's and had no issues other than chafe on painters. This might be an impetus to install powered Primary winch(es) to manage scope when bringing the tow closer in confined areas Power boat would be more maneuverable, power, fuel range and feasible to mount some sort of a "windlass" in the cockpit allowing easier modulation of scope, though the inertia of the sailboat would make handling around docks a good reason to tie alongside and then stream on a line when away from traffic The "towboat USA" folks seem to be able to run around hauling medium to large sailboats just fine. Anyone done this for more than casual range? What sort of distance to payout between vessels?
  10. LionessRacing

    Cabin & Deck refurbish: old awlgrip over crazed gelcoat.

    I am part way through, a combination of travel, minor medical and annoying administrative (Yacht Club FLag) issues that caused a temporary hold to my working in awkward positions and creating a bunch of noise and presumed dust. To date: I have used 40 grit on a combination of FESTOOL sanders with the Mini Dust collector to remove the non anti-skid portion of the cabin top. The Dust Collector dates from 2004 era, and required that the top shroud be replaced as it had become brittle. That went pretty well, including taking off the old weathered 8' Teak handrail, miscellaneous ancient anchor mounting hardware, filling holes with epoxy and getting a decent finish below the majority of the gelcoat cracks and deeper locally where they penetrated to glass. I primed with 545 grey and sanded with 150 Grit, and then re-primed with 545 White, two coats, had the above misadventure with HIghbuild that would not mix with the stirrer, sanded that mess down, did some scratch and gouge filling with AwlFair and knocked down a few prominent runs before switching to "AlwQuick" where I built up two coats sanding 220 between. Found I have ~2 hrs of working time before fatigue & arthritis takes away the control of the tool working at level I am sitting/kneeling on. (Sucks getting older) Picked up the 115 mm 36 grit and the FESTOOL "grinder" RAS 115 (4.5" ). Did some quick tests and it takes the non-skid (grid embedded in paint) down acceptably. That's where I left it, back in July after getting a bit too much attention for offering to donate a paint shaker to the club and the dockside lecture from Vice Commodore (dock committee chair) about that's what boat yards are for.... I figured I would resume shortly when the flags have ascended a level, there are fewer members around on the weekends, occasional rain to clean off any thing that might escape the dust collector and my outpatient surgery is healed enough to squat and bend at will, not in any hurry, I have 5 yrs before I move the boat back to the East Coast... I plan to take the Grinder to small sections of nonskid and same day, coat with 545 to seal the surface against weather, and then use AWLFAIR to fill any gouges from enthusiastic grinding/poor technique. I'll use my 93 mm Detail sander and Linear motion sander up against the stanchions, dorade boxes, toe rails and other miscellaneous hardware/trim. That will be followed by 545/AWLQUICK sequence per above, using the half sheet sander for leveling/fairing When the deck is on par with the cabin top, then will sand AwlQuick to a fresh surface with 220 - 320 and start building 545 coats towards a finish level of smooth at probably 400. Tip and roll of the color finish coats may happen after the rainy season, (May 2020) depending on how fast the take down goes. Using grit for the nonskid sections will cover some level of imperfections but I"d rather have it right before I camouflage it. Cockpit will be follow on project as that's even more fun to be working inside of a box.
  11. LionessRacing

    Navigation Tools

    The cost of up to date MFD, multi constellation GNSS, NMEA, etc is quite low, you can put in bundles with radar for about the price of a sail. That’s going to let you “see” the bad weather coming, and allow integration with instruments including weather to provide better information. Overlaying RADAR, AIS, and chart data is helpful coming into a busy port after dark, or in rain and trying to sort the lights of boats, buoys and shore.
  12. LionessRacing

    Navico Discounting ?

    Used to find online discounts on Navico, but lately not seeing them; Defender, ChicagoMarine etc all showing list price. Anyone out there I am missing? Some secret password needed?
  13. LionessRacing

    Australian Sailing

    The “aromatic mudflats” seems to be a clue: Has Brent Swain taken up residence and tried to race one of his Origami creations ? The humiliation would explain the secrecy and perhaps boorish behavior.
  14. LionessRacing

    Buying A New Sail

    The tri radial will have more margin of wind speed for the same cloth weight due to oriented fibers. Less stretch. You should have the sailmaker build your jib with marked points to reef it to, I have a 155 that reefs to 135, 115 with marks on the foot to position at the furler. Mine is made of vectran, a more expensive fiber, but I have 18 yrs on the vectran main and Mizzen and they still set well, and the boat doesn’t look goofy with 21st century black sails on a traditional rig. To gain affinity, start with basics, is the rig plumb, and symmetrically tuned. Check Forestay sag, backstay tension and main sail flatness. This boat may well be more tender, check your storage, and lower anything you can, it’s all cumulative. Make sure you have a smoothly working traveler, and use it, with that wind speed, you might start out with boom near centerline, traveler to weather and experiment for VMG.
  15. LionessRacing

    Australian Sailing

    It’s just got to have a population of decrepit live aboards with those attributes.