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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

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  1. That's just the latest chapter in this ridiculous saga. The whole thing began with him somehow managing to impale a San Juan 24 on a beach in Alaska while allegedly on a voyage to Japan to visit some woman IIRC. The photo of the SJ 24 on the beach has to be seen to be believed - no normal sailor could replicate that in several life times. From those humble beginnings he has gone through several excursions and several boats. The worst thing about this clown is he always relies on the CG or other emergency unit to get towed in I still suspect the "no food or water for 3 days" thing was just a ploy to get a free tow.
  2. You're right. I was wondering how this thread drifted off into the realm of longboarding - which seemed like a stretch given the type of boat and the reason you bought it. But since it had been brought up... I wouldn't use one on bare fiberglass or gel coat - but they work great on fairing compounds.
  3. But like I said, with a longboard you not only get a smooth and fair surface, I think you will find it a lot quicker than an RO sander - at least an electric one. I've never used an air one so I can't say about those.
  4. The Hutchins? That's not a longboard....now this is a longboard Not as painful as it looks. Actually not that much effort required once you get the rhythm down pat since you use most of your body in the motion rather than just your shoulders and arms. For flatter portions of the hull I've made my own from about 36" x 6" strips of 1/2" ply - and everything in between, depending on the amount of curvature. Used spray adhesive to attach strips of Norton floor sanding paper. One problem with a RO sander is that you will get the surface smooth - but not fair. the other issue is that it is much slower than a longboard. With a proper longboard, one swipe will take off quite a bit of material just because of the surface area of the board.
  5. How much epoxy do you think you will need? Unless you're doing some serious laminating - a gallon at most should fill any deck holes. For deck holes quart size should do you. For a small quantity like a gallon, it's probably not worth your time searching out the best deal just to save $40-$50 A couple of notes, when I said I paid $60/gal, that was for epoxy formulated by US Composites (Florida), not WEST. You'll never find WEST at that price. You also mentioned you have WEST pumps - keep in mind these will only work with WEST epoxies which are 5:1. If you use these with a 1:1 epoxy you'll end up dispensing either 5x too much resin, or 1/5 the required hardener. Either way you are screwed. Better off just measuring out with a 1:1 MAS and S3 are both good epoxies and both have their fans. Again, unless you are doing some serious laminating, get their regular epoxies rather than laminating ones. The laminating resins are less viscous making wetting out cloth easier - but are also more expensive (the S3 product is called Silvertip IIRC). The System3 website also has an excellent epoxy users guide you can read full of excellent info.. I don't think I've ever seen MAS anywhere in the lower mainland, but if you're are in Van, Fibertek carries S3 but it is more expensive than WEST
  6. ...home? Under which bridge is that?
  7. Besides control, in certain circumstances a Blooper helped with speed. One of those circumstances was the typical run down Juan de Fuca Strait coming home during Swiftsure. Not quite DDW, but a very broad reach. The year we won our IOR Div and 3rd overall (back in the days of a fleet of over 300) a Peterson 35 sistership with their blooper up had been hunting us down for several hours when we finally hoisted our borrowed blooper. That put an end to that and we slowly started pulling away again.
  8. MAS used to be cheaper, but it has become quite pricey. On the Defender website, the 1 gal MAS Flag resin is $80 and .5 gal hardener is $80 which works out to $107/gal mixed epoxy. The 1 gal WEST105B is also $80 and the corresponding 205B hardener is $46, which works out to $105/gal mixed. I've been very pleased with the epoxy I bought from US Composites last year. 3:1 mix ratio. Very similar to West. Gel and hardening times about 50-100% longer than WEST. Wets out about the same or better. Doesn't seem as sticky as WEST I find, so you don't get as many loose wet fibres stuck to your gloves or yourself. Of course the best part was the price - About CAD 500 for 7.5 gal of resin and hardener so about CAD 67/gal (USD 50/gal). This included freight charges from Florida to Blaine, WA and the required pumps. For fillers, the WEST stuff is good, but about the only unique or proprietary fillers they have might be the 404 High Density filler or 410 Microlight. Anything else can be bought generically for about 1/3 the cost. Locally, for most fillers I go to either FiberTek or Industrial Plastics, whichever is closer at the time. I did buy a gallon bucket of micro balloons from US Comp for less than USD 20.
  9. It's probably okay as it is - I think the point of most of the posters is that the SS304 structure probably took a lot of time and effort - and is a waste of time. Other than to attach the bulb as some have pointed out. The carbon skins look to be 6-7mm thick so are likely sufficient on their own - IDK, I haven't done any calculations But to answer your question - it is probably not okay to leave out the carbon and use E-Glass - at least with this.particular one. The problem with the design of the current steel structure is twofold: 1) circular rod is used and 2) the diameter looks to be about half the foil thickness. Both of these factors end up resulting in a much lower "I" value than if square rod as thick as the foil were used. Heck, even a couple of square tubes (like in the sketch back in post #13) of similar outside dimensions would probably be better as far as "I" values go. Square tubes would also greatly increase the "I" along the transverse axis
  10. Close - but the first step is actually to find a class sailed mainly by wankers.
  11. Quite possibly. When I referred to the attached photo, I was referring more to having FRP sheathing - but not 7 mm as the included drawing suggests. If one did elect to go with steel, you would want to design it so that the steel members alone would be sufficient for the design loads. If one used 7 mm FRP, empirically I would say you are pretty much right back to where you were with the carbon.
  12. Why FRP? It is just a sheathing to keep water out. If carbon is used, you go back to the original issue of the carbon skin trying to take most or all of the bending moment, and if it is just a thin sheathing, is much more likely to fail than an Epoxy/Glass one.
  13. if you want to use carbon - then Pulpit has the right solution, use a wood core. If you want to use steel members use regular FRP for sheathing - like in the photo you've attached. You will note that in the photo and drawing you attached, the other fins (that haven't failed) are using square steel tubes sheathed in FRP. Which brings up another point, when using steel tubes, square (or better yet rectangular) ones are more efficient due to the superior "I" values for a given OD and the OD should come close to matching the foils max width.
  14. Years ago, I was playing around and encased a piece of about 1/2" x 2" x 3" Corecell with about 1/4" cover of epoxy. Threw it in the oven after a few days at about 250F to see what would happen and in less than 15 min, the epoxy cover had split wide open. Wasn't sure if it was the air or foam trying to expand that exerted the pressure, but something did. In hindsight, I was probably lucky it was just encased in epoxy and not epoxy/carbon. In any event, I would be leery about heating in anything that might approximate a pressure vessel.
  15. Thankfully the builders of my previous boat already thought of that.