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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Weyalan

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  1. We were coming back from about 2 weeks cruising and there happened to be a passage race that was pretty much on our way... Anyway, enough derail for now
  2. Exactly. We couldn't afford a "proper" cruising boat (whatever that is), and old racing boats are cheap as chips and the sparse fit-out allowed us to refit it to our tastes, so the galley has become instead of
  3. Funnily enough, I don't have many photo's of us under sail The one above shows the short-hoist main with 1 reef. Full hoist goes to just below the runners. In this picture we have our big headsail (about 120% of J) becausew we are actually racing (forget the dinghy on the foredeck and the craypot and net on the coach-house roof). When cruising we would usually just carry the small job (about 75% of J, high cut) and the big jib (100% of J).
  4. Pap249 I and the Missus own & sail an old 1-tonner, which has a helluva lot of sail area for its w/l length. It was designed for a crew of 10 fit young gorillas, not for 2 oldies. It has a spaghetti noodle for a mast, runners, checkstays, and pretty much everything that you don't want in a curising boat. But, specifically to your comment above regarding the sail area on a cole 43... its not cast in tablets of stone that you have to use all that sail area. Get a main that only goes to the running backstays (as shown on your photo) and put 3 deep reefs in it. Get a jib about halfway from a No.3 to a No.4, on a furler. Go sailing. We have exactly this set-up and last decent length cruise we did was from Hobart to about the Queensland border and back, 2-up. We still averaged about 5.6 knots (that includes everything, upwind, downwind, light breeze, strong breeze, motoring, the lot). And that's a pretty respectable average speed for a 40' boat with a 31' waterline. We also handled plenty of sustained sailing well over 30 knots, with big seas and saw a top speed of 14 knots (with 3 reefs and the jib partly furled).
  5. Old One Ton

    Wife and I have an IOR 1-tonner (1979 design, 1985 build) that we have cruised fairly extensively up and down the eastern seaboard of Australia and Tassmania. as long as you carry appropriate sail, it is fine 2-up. We have a 2/4 hoist main that only goes to just uner the hounds, so that we can strap on both runners and tack or jibe without touching the runners (the checks get temporarily attached to the rails abaft the mast). We cruise with either a No.3 or No.4 jib. We have a full-hoist main and genoas for racing.
  6. Fareast Sails

    I've always bought from a local sailmaker, and will continue to do so, so I have no first hand experience buying sails from Asia. But several guys I know have. The general consensus has been that provided you give the loft exactly, specifically, unequivocally the right measurements and specifications first time, you get a good sail for what you pay. However, if, for whatever reason, the sail is not right when you take deilivery, it becomes an expensive sail, but fast. I'd prefer to support the local guy and to not take that risk.
  7. That is the current legal solution, if you can prove that the keel fell off due to the negligence of the designers or builders. But just because a keel falls off, doesn't necessarily mean that the designer or builder failed in their respective duties. If, for the sake of argument, your brakes failed in your car, but you hadn't had the brakes checked nor serviced since you bought the car (30 odd years ago), how do you think you'd go blaming the designer or manufacturer? The keel, just like any other part of the boat is not indestructible for ever. You have to maintain the keel, inspect and check it just like any other part of the boat. Have you ever dropped the keel out of your boat (assuming, for the sake of argument that you have one)? How often do you check the torque on your keel bolts? Inspect the keel-hull joint? I'm not saying that designers or builders cannot be a fault, just that if a keel falls of, it isn't necessarily their fault.
  8. Pretty sure Fruit Machine is now based in Hobart, doing ok (but not setting the world on fire)... did the L2H this year
  9. The 70th Brisbane to Gladstone race.

    My experience is that the main problem with bolt-cutters is that most people tend to take the smallest set that will get them a tick in the box with the pre-race auditor. A properly sized set of bolt cutters or even better, wire cutters will do the job fine... the second problem is that these important bits of safety kit tend to get thrown into a locker or even a bilge and left there ad infinitum, which isn't great for their performance... we carry a set of cutters about 3 feet long, these are also sprayed with oil and put in a vac-sealed bag. again, weight low is not a particularly bad thing - these are on-board all the time, racing or cruising. And, for the record, I have tested them cutting 1x19 wire of the same diameter as the largest rigging on the boat. For me, this shit is more important that saving a few seconds (but my tub is probably less weight sensitive than many race boats and, lets be honest, we don't win many)
  10. The 70th Brisbane to Gladstone race.

    I have battery angle grinder, cutting blades and a spare battery that go into a bag that is vac sealed, allowing storage nice n low down, so the extra weight, trivial though it is, is located pretty low
  11. The 70th Brisbane to Gladstone race.

    Yep. I did an L2H on her a few years back, owner was from Tassie North Coast, Devonport or thereabouts. She was great fun downwind with breeze, but kinda sticky in the light stuff
  12. The 70th Brisbane to Gladstone race.

    It was called AdvantEdge when I raced on her, but I have a feeling it may have been the old Vendetta... it wasn't alloy tho, so maybe not
  13. The 70th Brisbane to Gladstone race.

    I did some racing on an Inglis 47. Scary fast in the right conditions (especially when the steering cables had sufficient slack in them that you had about 5 degrees "play" in the wheel in either direction, sailing almost DDW in 30 knots, with decent seas, at night... afaik, that particular Inglis is in a paddock currenetly
  14. Singlehanding a 44' cruiser?

    My take on it, for what it is worth, is that it is probably possible to single hand a heavy 44 footer, but that doesn't necessarily mean that you should... If you have a good, reliable autopilot, and you set the boat up for short-handed sailing, then it can be done. Nevertheless, if you preference is for single handing, you certainly don't need anything that big to live aboard. Bear in mind though that the maintenance and upkeep of a 44 footer is probably at least double of a 35 footer. Ask you local sailmaker for a budget price for a new mainsail for a 44 footer versus a 25 footer. A turning block for a 35 footer probably costs $50, but for a 44 footer probably $250... etc. With yachts, the purchase price is only the beginning. People tend to buy the biggest boast they can afford, when they should be buying the smallest boat that ticks the boxes for their needs.