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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About BlackBart

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    far from you
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    guess, why do you think i have an sa account...

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  1. Harken Carbo Becket Pin Removal

    Fully agree with you. I always prefer to splice when I can. But a locket becket is something that I don’t consider I good place to splice though. But then again I don’t like becket blocks where the pin cannot be removed. The single block in the carbo 40 series have a safe working load of 485 which I think should be about the same safe working load per sheave in the tripple becket block. Big chance that thats a carbo 57 or carbo 75 block if its used for the mainsheet, even if the picture is of a carbo 40. Regardless of which carbo block it is and the safe working load of the block. A tripple carbo blocks in most cases don't have a line run to a winch afterwards or have the line led to further blocks for additional purchase . A line that you can grip well (at least 5mm) even if its a cheap polyester should have a higher breaking load that what you can pull by hand even if you use a knot.
  2. Skerry Cruisers

    But I agree with the protests about mandatory pfd’s. The use of pfd’s should not be mandatory since it improves the gene pool when all the stupid people don’t have to wear them. And gives the rest the possibility of post mortem handing out Darwin awards…
  3. Skerry Cruisers

    The PFD's goes inside the smock to keep the wind-drag down. But then I guess we are part of the younger generation in that class
  4. Skerry Cruisers

    Scroll through these pictures There are a few pictures of the interior, most are of renovation work unfortunately. https://www.facebook.com/pg/30-m2-skärgårdskryssare-140439956019762/photos/
  5. Skerry Cruisers

    Most skerry cruisers have living accommodations. Maybe not the same as you find in most floating summer houses with mast and sail… Headroom is not something you will get and the accommodations will be more like camping. Several of my friends have been growing up with cruising all summers in skerry cruisers. When not sailing many skerry cruisers also utilize a tent over the cockpit to extend the living accommodations.
  6. Suggestions on how to remove Sikaflex residue?

    Have anyone tried Xylene. A friend of mine tested it with very good result even though sikaflex says that hard sikaflex can nnot be removed with any solvents. Haven't tested it myself though, but will within a week. It's pretty cheap and can be found in most paint stores as a thinner.
  7. Skerry Cruisers

    Maybe this one if you would consider a transport from Germany. I am in no way associated with the ad... http://www.classic-yachts.de/sales/details/278/
  8. Bareboat Charter in the Baltic. . .tips?

    I agree with SpittingSpume The best experience will be if you explore the archipelagos in either Sweden (west or east coast) or Finland. They are extremely well mapped and you get to experience the ”Right of Public Access” where you can moor and explore any island as long as it not too close to a house, Nordic style with the bow towards land. In just the archipelago outside Stockholm there is more than 24000 islands and you can find +200 mapped ”nature harbors” as well as +70 commercial harbors. There is a reason why some many German sailors are sailing to Sweden… PS: Most likely you will not need a VHF, there is cellular reception all along the costs.
  9. Where do you work on your boat?

    You don't have to go with such an advance bout house. Fairly common in the Nordic countries to raise and dismantle the house each season. Google a bit and you will find a lot of simple plans. Just make sure that the angle of the roof is at least 45 degrees if you are risking snow. A couple of examples This was where I was working on the boat this weekend
  10. Boom vang load calculator

    Would still have been nice to be able to calculate this with a formula or online when you have the all the measurements. Found the gegrigging document earlier but unfortunately it is read-only. That was the original question of basically finding a formula or tool such a gegrigging that I could actually use. But I gess that is part of their internal IP. Still got the answer from mast and rodkick designers eventually.
  11. Boom vang load calculator

    I sent a question to Seldén about the vang load for my boat and got an answer, since it's both a Seldén rigg and rodkicker. The max workload on the vang according to them is 3300 lb and with the built in wire cascade 1650 lb on the blocks. Guess I have to partly go with plain bearing blocks or roller bearing blocks after all. Think I will risk a bit and reuse one of the Carbo 57 double blocks I already have but replace one of the other blocks. Thanks for all the wise words. Wish there were som nice calculator on the vang load though, would have saved me some time.
  12. Boom vang load calculator

    By the way I am using a Seldén Rodkicker rigid vang
  13. Boom vang load calculator

    I have already tried both the Harken mainsheet load calculator and checked the safe working load of the old blocks. Just didn’t think that those numbers were realistic. In the harken mainsheet load calculator with 24 knots of wind it gives me a load of 2336 lb. If the wind is above 24 knots I would reef so I figure that for the mainsheet a safe working load of 2336 lb is ok. The gusts would then be within the breaking load of the blocks as well. But if I use the same calculator and X is the attachment of the vang to the boom it would give me a load of 7786 lb. I just don’t think this value is realistic. Even if the first cascade is a wire built into the vang the blocks attached to the wire cascade would need a safe working load of 3893 lb. The old blocks are from of one of the cheapest brands and it’s their cheapest plain bearing model. Since they are plain bearing they have a fairly high working load of 2200 lb. Unfortunately the friction in them are really high and the blocks are in a bad need need of replacement. Due to the fact that it’s kind of the cheapest block that you can buy that still has a logo on it I would not think that the safe working load on these blocks are a good reference. Was hoping to use some existing Harken Carbo 57 blocks with a working load of 1584 lb (double) and 792 lb (single with becket) instead of spending big bucks and buying new Black Magic blocks. …and yes I use a lot of low friction rings but for the vang I prefer blocks. I assume that the highest load on the mainsheet is when going upwind. But then I am not using the vang. When reaching and using the vang I assume that the load of the mainsheet is much lower.
  14. Boom vang load calculator

    Anyone know of any good boom vang load calculator (or formula)? Would like to calculate the needed working load before I replace the blocks to the vang. Hoping I can use regular ball bearing blocks instead of plain/roller bearing blocks.
  15. Boots

    There is nothing worse than having av wave splashing up through the bottom of your pants and ending up inside your boots when you are hiking on the rail in cold weather. If you are not hiking the rail upwind or working the bow you probably don't need gaiters. Since that is my case as a bowman and have the issue of all the sailing gear designed for short stocky people with short leg length, gaiters are a must.