Crazy Horse

Had a white 180B SSS that we turbocharged in the late 80’s, then turbocharged a 1600 Datsun as well. Turbo lag was shocking but above 3,000rpm it was a weapon. 180B SSS had a draw through SU and the 1600 was blow through Weber. Fun times but probably rubbish to drive compared to vehicles of today.

In NZ Reg Cook produced a SSS version of the 1200 and 120Y sedans, twin side draught Delorto’s, cam, port & polish, upgrade suspension etc. All sold by the dealer, cool cars and what would they be worth today?

Have a look at the OP's diagram, the seal carrier does double duty

How do you know the o’ring is leaking? The rear main seal carrier is also the rear crank bearing carrier and needs to be reinstalled in the correct position as there is an oil gallery for lubrication to the bearing. The drag on the rear main bearing fit to crank journal could be causing the issue removing so don’t as it may be an issue to reinstall. From memory the bolts may be off set so can’t get it wrong re oil gallery line up. I would suggest any leaking oil may be past the retaining bolts and the rear seal, the seal can be removed simply without removing the carrier and the bolts can be reinstalled with a good product such as Loctite to seal.

The majority of inline injection pumps won't operate without positive fuel pressure either from a feed pump or head of fuel. Google search injection pump plunger to understand how they work and the limited pumping stroke they have which varies through a helix from shut off to max/ excess fuel. Yes I have seen oil in the fuel but never seen air sucked around the plunger. Happy to be educated

Leaking plunges won’t suck air as they operate at relatively high pressure so any leakage is diesel into the oil. Leaking delivery valves on the top of the injector pump before the pipes may produce poor injection quantity. Where is the throttle when you are bleeding to the injector, go to excess or full fuel. Does it try to fire, smoke on cranking etc? Will it fire on ether, have you checked everything else like intake, valves, compression, injection timing, exhaust etc If you have bleed the fuel up to the pump and no air then your next step is to pull an injector, connect it to an injector pipe upside down to see if you get a spray pattern when cranking the engine. Keep your hands, face away if you do this to avoid injecting yourself. A stuck injector nozzle may push combustion gases up past the feed to the tip and out the injector inlet blowing bubbles into the supply fuel but not on all injectors.

Sounds like the injector leak off rather than the high pressure line? Follow the pipe up from injection pump to injector and crack that nut while cranking the engine. Shoud be a pulsing squirt of clean diesel

It’s been a while since I have worked on these engine but I am sure there is a different flywheel housing for the sail drives and a quick search shows https://budgetmarine.com/catalog/engines-outboards/engines-parts-accessories/yanmar-parts/housing-flywheel-23gm-saildrive/. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yanmar-KM2P-1-Kanzaki-Marine-Transmission-2-62-1-Ratio-Mechanical-Boat-Inboard-/292107867070

I have seen an over full with oil, injection pump give symptoms of slow throttle response, is the pump engine oil feed or separate oil? If separate oil check the qty and type of oil, if engine oil feed maybe the level is too high? Do you live in a cold place with waxing fuel? agree with Zonker, take all the throttle and stop mechanisms out of the equation and work it at the pump. In theory the governor flyweights are open and not being overcome by the throttle spring tension to close to raise the revs. It should take little to interact with the governor to increase revs.

Close, about 4 hours drive south. Sailed a few contests on that water, plenty of tide, mud and the odd small penguin.

That is a complex governor for a small marine engine, most likely a hang over from the industrial engine it was built from. As you said it has electric shutdown I would ensure that this working correctly as it will directly limit the amount of fuel being delivered as it limits rack movement. Shut off being rack moved to no fuel, shut off not releasing fully would mean that the rack can not travel to a higher setting. Is it energised to shutdown or energised to run? Is the shutdown external connecting to a linkage or working straight on the injection pump rack? If possible remove the stop assembly and try that. Would be good to put the pump on a test bench to duplicate the issue. If there is no smoke then it is unlikely to be limited by the load of the alternator which probably has some smarts for temp or rev range before charging load comes on.

Interesting problem, as others have said definitely wait for Yanmar to retain your warranty coverage. Does the engine show signs of being under load when trying to rev up, black smoke etc. Is the shutdown electric or cable? Something appears to be restricting the injection pump rack from advancing to the higher revs, sticky plungers, sticking governor weights, shut off not releasing, oil between the end of the rack and the cap etc. Next time you shut it down, wait for the engine to stop then advance the throttle to mid revs while the engine is hot then see what happens at the next start. Does the injection pump have a return to the tank?

Also check injection pump front seal, most were mounted vertically and as it is a rotary pump fuel under pressure is at the drive coupling. Check injection timing, checking injector operation when you have them out for compression test. Does it have a thermostart, this is device like a large glow plug in the inlet manifold, these have fuel plumbed to them and are known to leak. How well does it start, lots of cranking with whitish grey smoke that cleans up when hot. Valve clearance, valve timing, lift pump leaking into the crank case. So many options, so little time

Totally agree, 1020 awesome yachts

Good man, enjoy the boat, I had a T750 which was a cool boat just had trouble finding enough crew in a town that is mostly shift workers.