Crazy Horse

I really enjoyed racing the IOM except for one or two skippers that had no idea of the rules of sailing but had the loadest voices. You learnt quickly to spot them an stand away from the BS. Good value sailing but I enjoy being on the boat more than watching.

Inspiring topic, we had some of the best holidays on a Noelex 25 when our sons were younger. They still talk about it now. I would make more sense to me than being one of the multitude of Grey Nomads in caravans stuck in camping grounds. More to see, less people and opinions. You have me thinking for my retirement and the trip around the continent, mine would have to be a Farrier/Corsair, just have to convince the significant other. Enjoy the trip Grith.

Logan 33 new builds had them as the standard install with several sold in NZ, contact the people at TransDiesel and they can tell you more about them. I own a 30hp 3 cylinder overhead cam LDW1003M with sail drive and was involved in the install of several during repowers of yachts like Y88, Farr, Davidson’s etc many times replacing older Yanmars. They are not noisy, yes the industrial air cooled engines are. The smaller ones rev to 3600rpm so need to have the prop to suit, will happily run at lower speeds with low fuel consumption but hp is produced at the higher revs. Pros: Small size, light weight, smooth and modern design. Often cheaper than Yanmar. Cons: Resale value compared to Yanmar, Yanmar are not a better engine but they are like the Toyota of the marine world. Most brokers promote Yanmar as the preferred option. Availability of parts and people skilled to work on them. They don’t respond well to water in the fuel, expensive repair with unit injection pump injector assemblies driven by the cam. Kohler purchased Lombardini some years ago but doesn’t appear to have improved marketing etc. Support for the product in Australian is woeful. happy sailing/motoring

Google this product, Bye Bye Birdie DUAL. Sounds like a con but I know the lady who has the yacht in the testimonial and she is genuine.

Thanks Hobot. My home port where I spent many an enjoyable day sailing, very different today. Earthquakes and all.

The reference to not using warm salt water was due to the training I received years ago that corrosion of Stainless Steel will be accelerated. The PSS website talks about squealing of their seal if lack of water flow, under installation instruction and trouble shooting. Not sure what your brand is but they would be similar construction, worth checking this also. Good luck

Sounds like they may be right, lack of water or contamination to cause it to glaze up and have a burnt layer? Shaft out and inspection sounds like the only choice. Look for shaft polishing or gauling at that point as well.. don’t run warm water down the drip less cooling line ever.

Many of these lovely ladies are “Goofy”

Are you sure it is the Cutlass bearing and not the transmission? Same in both forward and reverse? How much water is going into the bearing and is it cool or hot off the engine?

Thinking about the last 1GM mixing elbow I had anything to do with and it was made of steel tube that had corroded badly enough for the salt water to affect the exhaust valve. Did your problem start when the pump was overhauled or has it been an issue prior? Just got to understand your comment on crank case pressure, do you have a lot of exhaust smoke, hard starting etc? Would be great to hear just what the Yanmar mechanic finds and the fix. Good luck.

Interested to know how the mechanic checked the timing of the injector pump? Did he spill time it or use some other method? These pumps are very simple, the only way to get it wrong would be to use the wrong pumping element so the plunger closes the port late (shorter) or early (longer) or somehow messed the tappet up, this is the part that has the roller for running on the cam. If he is talking about grinding then the plunger must be short or there is shims missing from the tapped to the plunger. I wouldn’t grind to correct injection timing but fix the cause. Have you checked the mixing elbow, very likely rusted and restricted. Compression and leakage test should tell you a lot. These engines are so simple the fault should be obvious from a simple inspection.

This. With all the adapter plate bolts out you should be able to flex the adapter plate away from the flywheel housing a small amount? If not you still have bolts in place. Flex the gear box away with a wedge and spray penetrating oil into the shaft to coupling area in the centre. Think of something like the inside of a car clutch plate. If still stuck lock the crank some how and rotate the gear box output shaft while in gear backward and forwards, you will have to select forward/reverse to get the resistance to try and move the splined input shaft a small amount in the drive plate.

Just did a Google search and it is still for sale

Hearing the name “Augustina” brings back memories, I am sure this is the same Cat that was built on an apple orchard near Nelson in NZ by a young American man from Martha’s Vineyard with a French wife and a young son. He built everything including the mast in composite with foam core but looked heavy, finish was less than fair and he painted everything in Matt to satin finish paint by roller. I got to see a lot of it as he purchased the engines from me. Think of a large pod cat with all controls in the cabin to a large winch, including the steering wheel from a Mack truck although he could tiller steer it. It put me off attempting to build a Cat myself. It wasn’t satisfying to the eye but he was living his dream, not sure where the $ came from but probably well off parents. Saw it for sale some time ago for a ridiculous price and then it disappeared. Not what Soma needs I would suggest.