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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Rtfq

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About Rtfq

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  1. Low Friction Ring Anarchy

    Very neat, how much more friction do you find there is using the rings at 90o for halyards compared to normal blocks? Thanks, I have done a constrictor around a ring before, but you only gets 2 tails, I'm not sure how you get the 4 tails to make the soft shackle? As the noose needs 2 and the diamond knot needs 2.. Thanks
  2. Low Friction Ring Anarchy

    How do you get 2 lines around the ring? are you using 2 separate constrictor splices around the outside? Or some sort of single splice with the 4 ends coming out? I've been making some inhaulers with a single line but these integrated shackle ones look very useful for lightweight leads
  3. Is there ANY Antifoul that works? ( Bottom paint?)

    We had some jotun stuff that someone had bought a 20gal. drum of and shipped off 2l at a time on ebay. Worked went on easily and reasonably smooth (just light sanding in some spots needed), only had to really start scrubbing the bottom after about a year, before that a light slime would appear in the sunny spots every few weeks. Unfortunately the guy has stopped or run out. Anyone tried this SilicOne stuff from hempel? It's supposed to create a hydrophobic layer around the boat so it slides through the water. Supposed to....
  4. 496/213 pcb

    Cheers, I think there will be a very light wallet in the near future! Yes, having checked the masthead unit test sheet, the 496 runs on 12v and the 213 on 6.5v
  5. 496/213 pcb

    Thanks, I'll have a look for places in the UK who do board tests, we're just running on a bit of a tight schedule!
  6. 496/213 pcb

    Thanks, the good board is currently at the top of another mast, just if someone knew it would save a bit of time. There was nothing obviously damaged on the board but I have another like this without speed so my thoughts are that it's more likely to be the board than the cable up the mast
  7. 496/213 pcb

    We've got a lack of windspeed on a network system and found a split O ring on the 496 B and G masthead unit (did the tappy wire thing to confirm the displays were sound) and figure the speed is at the bottom of the unit, so it's probably the circuit board damaged by water ingress. The pcb does say 213 on it, so does anyone know if the pub's are the same? I have a spare 213 board from another boat with I can try. Thanks
  8. Whiting 26 1/4 Tonner Rebuild

    Any updates on the rebuild? I read it when you started, just came back for a look
  9. 213 to digital

    Thanks, that was my initial thoughts.. Excellent, I'm going to link it up with the pi running opencpn to get true wind, vmg and polar logging. rcbrds I've sent you a pm.
  10. 213 to digital

    Has anyone ever tried converting the analogue 3 phase direction signal from a B and G 213 transducer to nmea using an arduino? I'm trying to upgrade an old hornet system on the cheap, running a digital, Pi based, system in paralell. I can get the voltages for angles from the bandg website and the subsequent sin curve you get after plotting them. The problem being the analogue input of the arduino is up to 5v but the 213 outputs more than 6v at some angles. Has anyone successfully done this? Thanks 213.pdf