bad news

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  1. Here's a picture of the small brass bushing I made to pilot drill the holes and of the final result. We'll see how it holds up over time, but it's working well at the moment. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and guidance.
  2. I have installed the cleats with the wire fairleads and angled risers as well as ratchet blocks on the jib cars. Everything works well sailing single handed or with crew. I had some concerns about drilling the mounting holes straight enough as it was going to be an angled hole on an angled surface. In other words, the angle of the riser does not meet up exactly with the angle of the centerboard trunk, so I could not just drill vertically. To overcome this I made a small brass bushing to act as a guide for a 3/32" drill bit and used it to pilot drill the holes. I then drilled to size and tapped them. I would recommend this solution to other Daysailer owners. I'm away from home at the moment but will upload pictures when I get back.
  3. bad news

    An Idiot, a cat, and a sailboat

    I agree with your comments on skills, and as you pointed out I did not include the middle ground where things like moderately difficult but not rare skillsets or skillsets without high demand reside. You can easily take what you believe are the right steps and still not come out a winner in those careers. I would, however, point out that becoming a successful financial trader by your mid 20's involves a lot of suck by most people's standards - many hours of study and likely college debt, followed by entering a fast based and demanding workplace that's so stressful people have reported suffering from PTSD. Similarly, becoming a mid-ranking surgeon is a very demanding career path by any measure. Many years of expensive schooling followed by 80 hour weeks with crap pay during your residency. Typically, if you're willing to accept and overcome challenges that deter most other qualified candidates (that's the suck part), you will be rewarded with greater pay. It's rare to find something that pays that doesn't involve aspects that prevent others from entering the field, thus maintaining your first criteria. That is what I was trying to convey, but you broke it down more precisely.
  4. bad news

    An Idiot, a cat, and a sailboat

    The difference between a career and a job is the employee's mindset, not the occupation itself. The shift to career happens when you start to identify longer term goals and make the decision to advance or excel in your field. A guy who mowing a lawn might be a day laborer. The same guy who's gotten good at mowing lawns might be a landscaper. If that same guy becomes the best guy around at mowing lawns, learns how to tune and maintain equipment, learns how to supervise other workers effectively, now he's a foreman or manager. And if he applies himself to learning the financial side of operating a business he could become a successful owner. If it was that easy why doesn't everyone do it you ask? Because most people have some sort of "issue" that limits their advancement. That issue may be mental - they simply might not be that smart or are ill suited for the tasks they face. It could be emotional - a bad temper, or no self confidence. It could be entirely external to them, such as family or health troubles that take up their time and focus. It could also be an intentional decision. They chose not to apply themselves further to a career because other things are more important to them. All of these things are totally ok. They're not the condemnation of you as a human being, and they won't necessarily decide your long term prospects. They're simply current factors affecting any one person. There's a lot of game pieces involved in life. Having considered all that, my advise to people in your position is not to "follow your heart". I know a lot of folks have shared that kind of advise already and I admit that it's not without merit. My advise is to follow your talents. I am going to share with you a nearly universal fact: things that are really fun to do cost money. Things that really suck to do pay money. The harder the suck, the greater the pay. All jobs contain an element of labor, aggravation, and misery. The difference between a job that's truly intolerable (the kind of job you'd rather do ANYTHING else than continue on at, even go destitute or throw yourself upon the mercy of others) and someone else's dream job is having the important combination of personal interest in the process or result and tolerance for that particular type of suck. Some things just don't bother one person as much as they bother another. And many things are made more tolerable by fat stacks of cash. I believe the best way to guide yourself towards a career that will pay enough money that you don't have to eat the cat but also not suck so bad that you can't stand it is to pursue your strengths. A job that really suits your abilities allows you to accomplish more with less energy and time than a job you may lack aptitude for. Depending on your goals, this means that you either don't have to try as hard and can spend time dicking around on Sailing Anarchy, or it means that you can exceed the accomplishments of your rivals without having to work so hard it destroys your quality of life. So, how do you figure out what you're good at? I think one of the best signs are when you notice that you understand a problem or concept more quickly and with less effort than your peers. Some things just make more sense to a given brain than other things. If you happen to run into something that others seem to struggle at, whatever it may be, and you "get it", that's an opportunity that you should latch onto and try to maximize. As humans we usually enjoy things we do well, so the first clue might be to analyze the things you enjoy and see what skills they require that are applicable to the workplace. Mechanical inclination is worth its weight in gold in many types of industry. Welders often have an artistic bent (sculpture, etc). Good writers are without exception enthusiastic readers. I apologize as this has become rather wordy. TL/DR: Do what Tom Scott said, try hard, hope for the best.
  5. phillysailor, I did consider that style, but thought a fixed cleat seemed simpler and more robust. In this case the crew seating position is rather limited - if they move back much they'd be in my lap. To follow up: after reading everyone's suggestions I ordered the Harken 15* angled riser, wire fairleads, and the plastic standard top fairleads. The parts came in yesterday and I quickly mocked them up last night. It appears that it will work fine. Simpler and more robust may have left the building though, haha. One thing I did not realize for whatever reason is that the angled riser is actually directional - it doesn't fit up right with the Harken 150 cam cleats in both directions. It looks like you could make it work with a bit of filing, but in this case it won't be an issue for me. I hope to install everything and try it out Sunday.
  6. You're right, I didn't expand on that very well and I'm possibly not the right person to ask because there was a long gap between my attending sailing camps and such as a youth and purchasing a beater boat in my early 30's. Other, younger people fresh out of school and with fewer life obligations probably have a different outlook than I do, as would people who sailed continuously through high school and college and are much more skilled and particular. My ideas about this are partially shaped by working in a bicycle shop while I was in college and seeing what kind of products people new to cycling were attracted to. I'm not sure that there needs to be a dramatic change in the features and performance of old standby designs, but more a re-emphasizing of features that people who don't have lake houses, dock space, or yacht club memberships would find appealing - for example ease of rigging. I also don't know if in today's economy any boat can be brought to market at a price that's appealing to young new buyers with features and capacity greater than the Sunfish. We own an old O'Day Daysailer and have rented a small vacation cabin on a lake later this month. Two other couples are arranging to meet up with us that week to go sailing. I guarantee nobody complains about the lackluster performance of our 38 year old bath tub. I think that a boat for this market may look more like a stripped down Bahia than an Aero, possibly with a simplified cat or lateen rig. A cat rig that could be lowered and the mast laid down in the boat with the whole thing assembled and the sail still on might work well. Ideally it would be capable of carrying two adults and tolerate being overloaded with three or even four, rig in 10 minutes, and be light enough that two healthy folks could move it around with a dolly and launch it off a beach easily. An effort should be made to keep the boat as sun and weather resistant as possible, as it's very unlikely that it would be garaged. Keeping it covered would probably be the best you could hope for. The friend who noted that sailing was too expensive yesterday messaged me this morning to comment that many young people rent and have limited options for boat storage. He also said that the perception of cost is probably tied more closely to time than money. I agree with both of these. I also suspect that the boat I described would cost $6500+ and not sail all that great. Because I don't have any sailing industry background or any idea what sells, I'm probably entirely off the mark and am certainly open to correction. I stated in the previous post that I didn't know anyone under 40 who could spring for a new Meleges 20. I want to walk that back a bit. I certainly know a number of people including myself who could buy one, but it would involve a good amount of debt. The number of people I know who could take on an expense of that size without dramatically affecting the rest of their life is very very few. They certainly aren't going to do it if they don't already live to sail. I suppose building the bridge between that person and the guy who sits on the beach and says "I wish I could do that" when a boat goes by is what this thread is about.
  7. I'm one. What type of boats are those? There it is, thank you. I'm the target audience: 32 years old with a very modest amount of disposable income earmarked for "fun stuff". I sent that picture to three friends just now who have nothing to do with sailing and ask "Does this look fun?". The responses I got back were a yes, a second yes, and a "sailing is too expensive." These were people my age I know through mountain biking and weightlifting, not couch potatoes. I thought the idea of sailing small boats that we could throw in the back of pickup trucks or onto utility trailers on the river in town sounded pretty fun as well. I don't know where this idea that we want only extreme, exciting pass times or cut-throat competition comes from. If I need excitement in my life, there's not much challenge in finding it. For most of us excitement of some sort (typically aggravation and annoyance) is an unavoidable parts of our occupation. When the evening or weekend comes, the majority of folks my age want to do something casual and enjoyable. They like to meet up with friends at the trails, lake, or gym, and have a good time. Look at how impromptu and relaxed many of the popular hobbies are: the paddleboards and kayaks mentioned in this thread, yoga, hiking, or snowshoeing are examples. People gravitate towards things they can participate in quickly and informally, fitting them into their work schedule and lives. Rules, committees, start times, and super steep learning curves (note: this doesn't mean long learning curves, it means ones that are initially very steep) aren't high on the hit list. I understand this thread is about what's wrong with racing, but what's wrong with racing and what's wrong with sailing are tied at the hip. Only a small percentage of the people who enjoy a hobby are driven to compete at it. Most want to simply enjoy it for what it is. If you want to grow racing, you have to grow recreational sailing. The idea that the current available boats aren't fast or exciting enough for young people I believe is also out of touch. What new boats are is expensive and somewhat impractical for the young casual user. A new Laser is $7000 and you can hardly fit a friend. An RS Aero is pushing $8000...and it's still tough to bring a friend. Perhaps the plastic Neo will be more reasonable. People on here have pointed out that as a decent mountain bike is $4000, it's not really that bad of a deal. That's true, but I know very few people who walked into a bike shop and put down $4k for their very first bike. Entry level bicycles are typically $800-1600. It's the second or third bikes people buy that are $3,000 and up. There's certainly $3000 used boats around that are plenty good, but that comes with risks and hassle many people don't want. The notion that boats should be made higher performance, more costly, and more complex to draw in new (inexperienced adult) participants is contrary to the steps that basically every other outdoor industry on the planet takes to attract users. What's the sales pitch on these boats anyways? "This thing is AT LEAST 10% faster than your daddy's clapped out Laser!" Come on. I don't think it's a coincidence that Sunfish outnumber everything else on the lake by 3:1. Two lines, two minutes to rig, and (just barely!) fits two adults. I don't know a single person under 40 who has the disposable income for a Meleges 20 or any other cool new boat. I am admittedly a blue collar guy, but it doesn't sound like young people are queuing up for them anywhere. Additionally, the comments about water access are hitting on a real issue. My wife and I sail our 17 foot bathtub off a trailer, but we were talking about a slip or mooring and possibly a keel boat we could weekend on. It appears that in the New Hampshire lakes region you need to bring at least $2k per season if you want to keep something in the water. Pricing was $120+ per foot for a slip, $2000+ for a mooring. I checked the websites for 8 local yacht clubs and only three had information on how to join posted at all. Of those three one wanted $20 to submit an application, had low monthly fees, and was on a tiny lake with no swimming allowed. One stated that you needed two members to vouch for you before you could be put on a waiting list of indeterminate length. The third wanted $15k up front. I've gone on long enough. TL/DR: boats are expensive and there's no affordable place to keep them. Many of the things old(er) school sailboat racing types think are cool in dinghies and cheap boats aren't all that exciting to new sailors.
  8. Thanks everyone. You have given me more to consider. dreaded, the Daysailer forum was actually down with DNS problems from last Friday or Saturday until either last night or this morning. It's a great resource, but the amount of experience the SA membership has with different boats, setups, hardware, etc is several orders of magnitude larger. Several suggestions in this thread were for solutions not commonly considered by the Daysailer guys but are worthy of careful consideration.
  9. Right - inability to quickly and easily uncleat the sheet from the factory installed cleat in a breeze, particularly while hiking out, is why I'm making this change. Additionally it was very awkward to play the sheet by hand with the old setup. My comment to the loads it sees was only in reference to the required durability. The goal is for the functionality to be as best possible. The goal in mounting the cleat on the angled surfaces so that they faced upwards towards the trimmer was to bring that vertical plane more in line with where the trimmer would be seated on the rail, hopefully preventing them from having to reach too far down into the boat to cleat the line. The bullseye was to try to keep the lead in the vertical workable, but with the small space they'd be awfully close. I will investigate other options for that, such as the suggested u bolt. I appreciate everyone's input. If you have an idea for hardware better suited to the task don't hesitate to suggest it.
  10. No problem, I wasn't very clear originally. It sounds like the consensus is that is too much, which I thought looked to be the case. I will try placing the cleats so they are facing upwards towards the blocks instead of upwards towards the crew on the rail to eliminate vertical misalignment without the bullseye. Thanks everyone.
  11. My understanding of those extreme angle fairleads are that they are to guide the line through the cleat on the operator's end to help facilitate cleating and uncleating at odd angles, but if the issue was on the tensioned side of the cleat like I have then something like the bullseye, a deck organizer, etc was called for situation dependent. In this case, I was concerned that the misalignment of the line is largely vertical, and will pull the line upwards - the direction it needs to go to free itself.
  12. I have an O'day Daysailer 2 and am a novice who is rubbish at sailing. The cleats for the jib sheets are currently located on the jib cars. They're rather awkward to use. The Daysailer has two angled surfaces molded into the centerboard trunk, apparently with the intent to put cleats there. A number of Daysailer owners have replaced the cleats on the cars with blocks and installed modern cam cleats on these angled surfaces to good effect. People seem to use a variety of hardware without much consensus on what's best. I ordered blocks, h150 cleats, and bullseye fairleads to perform this modification. I haven't selected any additional fairlead (Plastic, wire, or extreme angle) for the h150's yet. When I mocked up the install, the attached photos show what I got. These are mocked up with the cleat angled upwards towards where the crew would be sitting on the rail. This seemed to make the most sense to me, although I believe I've seen pictures of them set up the other way with the cleat turned so that it faces up towards the jib cars. This fixes the angle of the line to the cleat without the bullseye, but it seems like you'd have to really reach or use your foot to cleat the line. With the bullseye in place the line will be fair into the cleat, but I am a bit worried that it will be difficult to play the sheet by hand without accidentally cleating it, as they're quite close together. Are the bullseyes worth while and necessary in this situation? There is some fore/aft misalignment as well which will change as the position of the jib cars are adjusted as well (I say that like I'm sophisticated enough to actually adjust them...). How much misalignment will an H150 actually tolerate? There's only about 50 square feet of jib on the other end of that line, so the forces are modest. Thanks in advance for any input.