debonAir

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About debonAir

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    Newbie

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  • Location
    Boston
  • Interests
    Sailing, eating, drinking, and eating and drinking while sailing.

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  1. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    You know I probably would never have considered the tides track or the Dutchman had they not come with the boat. Now I'm a big fan. They make it possible to single hand a 35 foot boat. I can just uncleat the main halyard let go and the main just drops and flakes itself and won't fly off the boom. Lazy Jacks would do similar but not the self flaking part as neatly I imagine.
  2. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    I have a similar sized main (P=39 E=12) and was going to buy a new main this spring and talked to North. I wanted full-batten 8oz Dacron with 2 reefs (after 2 it might be time to furl it all in my opinion, or use a smaller jib). Prices here include about +1000 for Dutchman system and Tides luff slides install. Here's what I found: Cheapest: about $2000 for generic cross cut high-end main (challenge dacron, "offshore" weight) North cross-cut (regular) about $3500 North Nordac 3Di about $6100 (yes almost double the cost) I imagine a dracron tri-radial would be in the 4-5K range. It isn't just the cloth you are buying. You are getting a lot of hardware and there is a lot of quality range in that. Doesn't matter to have 8.4oz challenge cloth and a cheap-ass head plate with only rivets. You are also getting service and future service too. North has lofts all over and will support you with issues and reworks without shipping or a long drive. That said, other non-boat things broke this spring that need more attention so sails are next year alas.
  3. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Yes, thin-end goes in first. Think about where you want more vs. less curve. Usually you'll have a cap or some type of protector around the ends, or, for some full-batten sails some type of receiver/socket. Even some tape wrapped around the sharp bits is better than nothing. Hard to find a used sail worth spending money on unless its from a hurricane victim. Maybe for a storm sail or cruising chute or other less-used cloth but NOT a main, and especially not for a fractional rig like yours where you get a lot of your power from the main and main shape counts a lot more than with us mast head genoa folks.
  4. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Wow, with a little work you could put a copper coil inside the new water tank and pass the compressor's output through the tank and make one of those newfangled heat-pump water heaters Might take all day to warm up. I think you'll be fine lifting that a few inches. Plenty of run of tube, and it's annealed (soft) too so can take a lot of bending. Not sure how you're gonna fit the new tank in though. Do they make bladder style tanks? Maybe a foam bellows kind of thing that could expand once in place.
  5. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Thanks All. I am going with 100w so I can run a radar/gps and autopilot all day w/o worrying about using the starting battery. I have two group 31 AGMs to maintain, not sure yet how long one will go as a house battery, probably a few days? (buying the radar will be the next step ) My boat had a fridge/freezer compressor which was broken when I bought the boat. I usually put a couple gallons of frozen spring water in the oce box and am good for a few days and then have drinking water. For those with working fridge compressors... is it worth the effort? battery drain, etc. to not lug ice around? I am debating fixing it in a few years. Worth the expense? Most of my sailing is in water at 54-60 degrees
  6. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Wow, this thread has morphed from "Ajax spiffs up a T33" to "I can't keep up with all the good ideas in here. Stop or I'll be more broke!". The red-light thing is a fantastic idea. I thought my key-chain light was the final answer until I left my keys somewhere on the nav table once and came back to find them... at night. Of course someone would probably mess with the switch during the daytime and I'd forget to turn them off and drain my battery, in which case LEDs would be nice, or a timed-on type switch too? I am shopping for a solar panel now. I hope to strap it to my shrink-wrap on the sunny side of the boat to make sure my batteries are charged for launch. After launch I want it to go on top of the dodger probably, so wanting a flexible type. I think Ajax you put a rigid type off the pushpit? Any ideas how many watts I'd want (I am thinking 100W). Also, how do I charge 2 batteries? Do I need a special controller, 2 controllers, or just wire both batts?
  7. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    If I was going to make just a few cutouts I'd use a chisel, but *inside* the cutout by a few mm if there is a hard surface, then a brand new sharp utility knife around the edges first, then chisel the edge bits out from inside the cut gently. Finally I'd use a Demel tool to get any high-spots near the edge instead of chisel that can slip or go under veneer and pop it up. Whenever I chisel something that has a veneer, the harder veneer seems to fair worse than the softwood underneath: cracking, delaminating, denting, etc. Good luck!
  8. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    In my experience, the diff between water and oil based polys on wood is that the oil based ones "yellow" the finish while water based ones remain clear. I mostly/exclusively use the oil ones so can't comment much on wear. On the screw-vs-plug question, I'd say the exposed bronze screws are fine aesthetically but I would worry about 1- the screw head divot will collect fine grit that will be impossible to sweep away and will wear your finish down faster. 2 - moisture will penetrate the screws. they will let moisture and fine grit migrate under them into the floor wood. You can pre-treat the counter sunk holes with epoxy 3 - varnishing over the screw heads will make them hard to get out anyway having to dig the varnish out of the slots/squares In my opinion, (I ain't doing it!) by the time you do all this pre-treating and careful counter-boring to get uniform head-heights you might as well plug them instead and get a smooth surface that sweeps and wipes clean super-easy.
  9. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/d/sailboat-has-to-be-sold-33/6411356504.html Just came on Craigslist. Looks like a good deal.
  10. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    My locker opening lip has nice arc shape cut in it where a sliver was temporarily removed to enlarge the lip to fit the water tank. The sliver is now reattached to a piece of wood, also attached to the lip that remained. Its all covered by the seat when closed. The water tank is amazing though. Having a hot stand-up shower on board is a game changer. And having a long hot shower over *four* hours after shutting the engine off really surprised me last weekend. Didn't think six little gallons would stay hot that long or give that long of a shower. Even if you have to cut a big circle out of your cockpit floor and nail a sheet of plywood and duct tape over the hole, the tank is so worth it this time of year.
  11. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    imagine the kind of damage this could do http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-1-Flute-3-4-Bore/C2050
  12. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    yup. but as always, you could probably get someone to route the step for 99, and not have another thing to store. personally I am OK with buying a neat new tool to "save money" because I have a basement and a garage. I bet you could find a vocational school that'll route your step for fun.. good luck!
  13. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    nah, its not that bad. just practice before hitting the real wood. when I did a lot of routing work I setup a router table which basically turns the router into a table-saw type thing with a fence which means you hold and move the wood instead of hold and move the router, so there's less fixturing. I find it better with the table if you don't need to plunge it in
  14. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    routing is an adventure. Spend a lot of time rigging fixture to guide the router. make everything as rigid as possible. practice a bunch of times on scrap. route a longer piece than you need amd then trim length because the ends get messy easy. each wood type acts different so try a scrap of same wood first too. don't touch the bit. the PO of my boat was a very experienced wood worker with a complete shop. He built a new sole and told me "had you asked me how much I'd charge before I started I'd have said maybe 1000. After, maybe 4000. Maybe I would just say no at any price." It's a very nice sole though. Besis the materials being super expensive, it's fitting them all together scarfing and skiving. fittingl the bilge boards, and the fact it was the first thing put in the boat and everything else built on top of it. labor of love only.
  15. debonAir

    The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    What did you do with the Merrimans? My son is a rigger and he's collecting those as antiques. We just launched my Ericson and did the first sail yesterday. Nothing like having new furler, blocks, and sheaves. This 35 is smoother that. my oday 23. One fine tune for racing is replacing your old halyards with high tech rope. This dyneema stuff is sweet. No stretch at all so you just set it once and it doesn't eat away at sheaves like wire so you can use delrin sheaves. And you can get really light spin sheets etc.