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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About debonAir

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    Sailing, eating, drinking, and eating and drinking while sailing.

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  1. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Thanks All. I am going with 100w so I can run a radar/gps and autopilot all day w/o worrying about using the starting battery. I have two group 31 AGMs to maintain, not sure yet how long one will go as a house battery, probably a few days? (buying the radar will be the next step ) My boat had a fridge/freezer compressor which was broken when I bought the boat. I usually put a couple gallons of frozen spring water in the oce box and am good for a few days and then have drinking water. For those with working fridge compressors... is it worth the effort? battery drain, etc. to not lug ice around? I am debating fixing it in a few years. Worth the expense? Most of my sailing is in water at 54-60 degrees
  2. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Wow, this thread has morphed from "Ajax spiffs up a T33" to "I can't keep up with all the good ideas in here. Stop or I'll be more broke!". The red-light thing is a fantastic idea. I thought my key-chain light was the final answer until I left my keys somewhere on the nav table once and came back to find them... at night. Of course someone would probably mess with the switch during the daytime and I'd forget to turn them off and drain my battery, in which case LEDs would be nice, or a timed-on type switch too? I am shopping for a solar panel now. I hope to strap it to my shrink-wrap on the sunny side of the boat to make sure my batteries are charged for launch. After launch I want it to go on top of the dodger probably, so wanting a flexible type. I think Ajax you put a rigid type off the pushpit? Any ideas how many watts I'd want (I am thinking 100W). Also, how do I charge 2 batteries? Do I need a special controller, 2 controllers, or just wire both batts?
  3. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    If I was going to make just a few cutouts I'd use a chisel, but *inside* the cutout by a few mm if there is a hard surface, then a brand new sharp utility knife around the edges first, then chisel the edge bits out from inside the cut gently. Finally I'd use a Demel tool to get any high-spots near the edge instead of chisel that can slip or go under veneer and pop it up. Whenever I chisel something that has a veneer, the harder veneer seems to fair worse than the softwood underneath: cracking, delaminating, denting, etc. Good luck!
  4. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    In my experience, the diff between water and oil based polys on wood is that the oil based ones "yellow" the finish while water based ones remain clear. I mostly/exclusively use the oil ones so can't comment much on wear. On the screw-vs-plug question, I'd say the exposed bronze screws are fine aesthetically but I would worry about 1- the screw head divot will collect fine grit that will be impossible to sweep away and will wear your finish down faster. 2 - moisture will penetrate the screws. they will let moisture and fine grit migrate under them into the floor wood. You can pre-treat the counter sunk holes with epoxy 3 - varnishing over the screw heads will make them hard to get out anyway having to dig the varnish out of the slots/squares In my opinion, (I ain't doing it!) by the time you do all this pre-treating and careful counter-boring to get uniform head-heights you might as well plug them instead and get a smooth surface that sweeps and wipes clean super-easy.
  5. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/d/sailboat-has-to-be-sold-33/6411356504.html Just came on Craigslist. Looks like a good deal.
  6. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    My locker opening lip has nice arc shape cut in it where a sliver was temporarily removed to enlarge the lip to fit the water tank. The sliver is now reattached to a piece of wood, also attached to the lip that remained. Its all covered by the seat when closed. The water tank is amazing though. Having a hot stand-up shower on board is a game changer. And having a long hot shower over *four* hours after shutting the engine off really surprised me last weekend. Didn't think six little gallons would stay hot that long or give that long of a shower. Even if you have to cut a big circle out of your cockpit floor and nail a sheet of plywood and duct tape over the hole, the tank is so worth it this time of year.
  7. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    imagine the kind of damage this could do http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-1-Flute-3-4-Bore/C2050
  8. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    yup. but as always, you could probably get someone to route the step for 99, and not have another thing to store. personally I am OK with buying a neat new tool to "save money" because I have a basement and a garage. I bet you could find a vocational school that'll route your step for fun.. good luck!
  9. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    nah, its not that bad. just practice before hitting the real wood. when I did a lot of routing work I setup a router table which basically turns the router into a table-saw type thing with a fence which means you hold and move the wood instead of hold and move the router, so there's less fixturing. I find it better with the table if you don't need to plunge it in
  10. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    routing is an adventure. Spend a lot of time rigging fixture to guide the router. make everything as rigid as possible. practice a bunch of times on scrap. route a longer piece than you need amd then trim length because the ends get messy easy. each wood type acts different so try a scrap of same wood first too. don't touch the bit. the PO of my boat was a very experienced wood worker with a complete shop. He built a new sole and told me "had you asked me how much I'd charge before I started I'd have said maybe 1000. After, maybe 4000. Maybe I would just say no at any price." It's a very nice sole though. Besis the materials being super expensive, it's fitting them all together scarfing and skiving. fittingl the bilge boards, and the fact it was the first thing put in the boat and everything else built on top of it. labor of love only.
  11. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    What did you do with the Merrimans? My son is a rigger and he's collecting those as antiques. We just launched my Ericson and did the first sail yesterday. Nothing like having new furler, blocks, and sheaves. This 35 is smoother that. my oday 23. One fine tune for racing is replacing your old halyards with high tech rope. This dyneema stuff is sweet. No stretch at all so you just set it once and it doesn't eat away at sheaves like wire so you can use delrin sheaves. And you can get really light spin sheets etc.
  12. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    The thing I'd do first would be putting a traveler between the helm and cockpit that you can use while driving. Getting the proper twist, and being able to dump the main and pull it back one-handed will be key to going upwind alone. And that gives you the main sheet in-hand as well. I think your Tanzer has a traveler right on the bridge deck? Moving it on top of the transom might make it more accessible? Solo racing you aren't going to be doing sail changes often, all you really need handy are the sheets. The out-haul is probably next, which is handier in a clutch than on the boom when short handed, and then cunningham and vang next depending on your particular boat/conditions.
  13. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Now that I see the picture above.. there's some weird stuff going on there. The M30 on the right looks to be in the lead and about to get lee bowed (or clobbered) by the was- port tacker. The main shape looks ok even with the reef (that's hard to do sometimes I think) and that all makes sense and why she's out front. Fancy Free though? with no reef she's over powered, probably slipping to leeward fast, and flogging that super pretty kevlar main. But is that a dodger? That's not fast. The boat right in front has a reefed main and what appears to be a 10% roll-reef in the jib. I've never seen someone race with a partially reefed jib before. I suppose a small roll doesn't kill the shape, but I'd almost be inclined to just drop the main and sail on the full jib alone here. Thoughts? Moral of the picture story is to have a small jib ready for windy days, know how to flatten your reefed main, and take off the dodger, bimini, and other windage before the start.
  14. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Hi Groundhog - Also-not-Ajax Your boat's speed is limited by the hull, so a spinnaker in 24kts might have slowed you down more than sped you up either by plowing the bow in or repeatedly rounding you up. And that's assuming your crew has a lot of experience flying a chute. Like mentioned, get race tuned first, spin second. It can take a year or two to get the hang of a boat in race-mode. Even longer to get really competitive, but stick with it and it gets even more fun when every start is a possible win. Besides the obvious smooth faired bottom and crisp shapely sails, a little things that really make a huge difference is crew consistency. Getting a full crew on the boat each week is a major component of winning so keeping your mate's tails wagging and eager to come back for more is key. Again there are obvious things like good food and drink (you don't have to provide, just coordinate to make it happen), and not quite as obvious: NO YELLING. EVER, and even less obvious, like someone mentioned earlier: make sure everyone gets a chance to drive now and then, and switch up positions so everyone knows what the other guy's pain points are. A decent cheap starting watch will alleviate half the stress of the first 5 minutes. With PHRF racing your strategic goals are simply tacking on appropriate wind and current shifts, covering your closest competitors, and balancing not-tacking-to-much and not over-standing lay lines. Not hitting other boats is good too. Have Fun!
  15. The Discarded- Rescuing a Tartan 33

    Gee I hope you find that Salami, it sure would stink up the bilge over the summer "Find the dripping stuffing box" is the game I'd be playing on a week cruise, but that's not nearly as fun as it sounds. FYI, I was keen on this 33 earlier this Spring http://www.tartan33.com/photo-gallery.html but ended up getting an even nicer Ericson 35 MkIII, This Tartan is still for sail I think and is worth a look if you're in Annap. area. Hey you could 1-design with Ajax.