• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About InfiniteElement

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. InfiniteElement


    Maybe the rudder was flexing and that was added to stiffen?
  2. InfiniteElement

    Roof condensation

    I think this should be stressed to understand the issue, particularly the bit about stove use. Products of combustion are co2 and h2o (plus etc)... make sure you are not introducing more h2o and if you are using the stove make sure you are ventilating well during use so you don’t end up super moist inside the boat. Wood stoves and the like work well Bc there is a chimney to vent the h2o, and the hot stove transfers its heat to the surrounding boat by radiation and some convection if there’s air movement. Plus it draws air into the stove for combustion... which ends up drawing cool outside air into the boat for heating (once heated the relative humidity is low). On the topic of radiation heat transfer and deep space temperatures... that’s why your horizontal front windshield ices up on a cold morning but not the vertical rear (on your pickup truck). You can combat this by parking under a tree. No such option on boats, but I agree putting the dinghy, some cushions, a cloth cover, or something else over/on top of the sleeping area should make that surface less cold, which should decrease condensation on the underside.
  3. InfiniteElement

    Small Engine Fix Anarchy...

    I find that nobody gives a hoot about my boat/house/car/etc quite as much as I do, nor do they understand the symptoms of the problem they are to fix, or my expectations quite like I do. So I end up doing most things myself... eventually. Plus each fix is a chance to learn stuff and acquire tools.
  4. InfiniteElement

    Indentations from trailer pads in cored hull

    My thought was drop one (of three on each side) at a time. Suppose the stern pad would be most sketchy. Duly noted, will acquire jacks if I’m going to attempt. Thanks.
  5. InfiniteElement

    Indentations from trailer pads in cored hull

    Awesome, thanks for the replies. Will contact you criticalpath about that reference when I have the boat in the water. Looks like we are going to move forward with a purchase. Price is higher than I’d like but considering the lack of alternatives on the market now and nearby I’d rather have a boat than keep looking. I’ll try to make up some of the over budget by diy-ing the bottom. Quasi related question: I’d like to diy barrier coat and bottom paint while on the trailer. What’s your sequence of events to get all the spots under the pads? Lower one or two pairs at a time? 5 coats of barrier and 3 of bottom paint is gonna take forever... also, the bottom of the keel... with non-screw jacks I’m not sure how to accomplish that. I thought I’d read the 0 30 keels were faired with something weak, so I would really like barrier everywhere.
  6. Hello, I’m looking at an Olson 25 (pacific build), presumably with cored hull. It’s a dry sailed freshwater boat with original gel coat on the bottom (never even bottom painted, still see the faint print-through from the fiberglass in the surface). Otherwise in pleasing condition. It’s on a newer trailer, not sure what the previous trailers looked like but this one is sturdily built, but the pads are non adjustable (non-screw, they are thru bolted). 3 pads per side and a bow guide. In several places the hull is non-fair and I suspect indented in. No scratches or repairs are visible so I can only assume it’s because it has spent 99.95% of its 30 or 40 years on a trailer or cradle of some kind, perhaps with the keel unsupported. For example both sides of the stern section are slightly pushed in, with a high spot/ridge running longitudinally amidships from the dent where a stringer is inside the hull. These areas are not like it’s convex to concave, more like convex to less convex. The surface finish in the areas is faintly... crinkly?... if that makes sense, supporting my idea it was not molded that way. Tapping with the back of a screwdriver sounds the same as the rest of the hull though. What are your thoughts on the seriousness of this condition? Is this a common thing on lightweight/cored trailer sailers? J boats maybe? I will be barrier coating this (or other) boat and keep it on a mooring most of the year in the southeast US. Would you expect things to maybe pop back out over time? That would determine whether to try to fair parts of the hull. Intended use is casual phrf, occasional coastal hops and races, and family day/weekend sails. Not trying to circumnavigate or win the America’s cup. Thanks for any thoughts or experience.
  7. InfiniteElement

    Name that valve/seacock

    As far as pulling the old valves off the fittings goes... any other tips besides the holder on the outside? Is heating the valve body with a blowtorch helpful?
  8. InfiniteElement

    Name that valve/seacock

    Hot damn, I think See Level wins the “WTF is this” challenge. (Seabell shows what looks like a tapered cone valve, mine are different). Thanks all, that satisfies my curiosity. It’s gotta be a quick close gate valve. Mine are different brand and vintage of course, and I suspect mine are bronze but who knows. All that is enough to convince me to at least try having them spin the old valves off the fittings and replacing with ball valves. The existing fittings are so beautifully fared to the hull I don’t want to muck with the trouble and expense of replacing the mushroom thru hulls.
  9. InfiniteElement

    Name that valve/seacock

    Another question... what do you think are the chances I could unscrew these mystery valves (and the weird nipple extension on the ball valve) from their respective thru hull or 90deg elbow, without breaking the seal at the hull? There are no diy yards in this state - I don’t mind paying labor to replace all valves with new balls on the original stubs, but if I have to pay labor to replace 4 thru hulls in addition I will probably take my chances and leave it be.
  10. InfiniteElement

    Name that valve/seacock

    Hello folks, I’m hauling my ‘75 c&c 33 mk i soon for bottom paint. I’ve been poking around the thru hulls I haven’t replaced yet, and just can’t figure out what these are and whether they are to be trusted. They look to be original. These valves are approx 1/4 turn... but the handle turns on an axis that is incompatible with them being your typical ball valve. Also not your typical gate valve. Words “auf “ and “zu” are visible, must be ze Deutsch (Open/close). First photos: mystery sink drain in galley. Next photos: head... mystery valve discharge in back top (1-1/4), then 3/4 mystery sink drain. Foreground is a later 1/2 groco ball valve for head intake .... but it sure looks like the dang thing has a copper pipe nipple on the outboard side. thoughts on priorities if any of this should be ripped out? Anybody seen these? Are they serviceable by removing that big cap? Note: I know none of this is flanged ABYC-blessed goodness and the right thing would be all new everything, but I don’t want to overly polish a turd by going nuts on something that is probably ok, either.