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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

PJF

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About PJF

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    Washington DC, Maryland, Northern VA
  1. ok, your photos are great, but the plates of foam and glass are horizontal vice vertical. Damn, I am confused. Yours makes sense because it is like laying bricks, but I have see other photos where they put in "vertical sheets" with pour in between. Good excuse to start drinking over the winter and just go for the consensus this spring the it is warm enough to epoxy. This is a "spare J24" that will be used to allow newbies into the class to try it out. But still want to be class legal.
  2. The photos are locked but I have seen similar pictures. Is there sufficient structure to prevent compression and movement in the keel when the keel bolts are torqued down? The J Class site shows a full pour, while others show your suggested method of high density foam and compression sleeves around the bolts. And i have no idea where to get 5/8" bolt compression sleeves.
  3. Getting ready to cut the last of the filler out of an 81 J24 sump around the aft keel bolts...when I re-fill, and going by the class website guide, do I use polyester or can I use west epoxy? thoughts on difference? epoxy bonds better but is more brittle. I have milled fibers to mix. ideas?
  4. J24 frozen nuts

    Thanks, the acetone-ATF mix worked. With a little help from a pneumatic impact wrench. Now to redo the sump bedding.
  5. J24 frozen nuts

    Will try it and report back!
  6. J24 frozen nuts

    Actually, the almost new Triad trailer was the reason I bought it for a couple hundred, along with a new Quantum spinnaker and good beer can sails,new lines and halyards, good mast, etc. now I don't want to just trash it. Am worried that breaker bar will twist off the keel bolt. Think an impact wrench may work? Have lots of tools from working on old sports cars and antique tractors. Lots of stupid hobbies. Am hoping to turn it into a new racer loaner for the club so I would like to fix the wobbly keel. As for frozen nuts... Ice vice heat on the keel bolt?
  7. J24 frozen nuts

    I recently purchased a 1981 J24 at auction (cheap). Small cracks in the paint around the aft section of the keel and separation of the filler from the inside sump wall around the aft two bolts likely mean I have to remove the filler and redo the sump around the aft two bolts? The aft two nuts were not tightened down to the filler which is likely why the paint was cracking as the keel moved. I ran a die over the aft two bolts to remove whatever resin/gunk was there, but the aft keel bolt nuts won't move. Is using an impact wrench ok to remove one bolt at a time? I am letting the penetrating oil soak as I write. I would ask waterline systems, but the are out of business. thanks!