EvaOdland

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About EvaOdland

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  1. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Might not seem.like a lot but getting the new DC panel in and wired to the battery and being able to flip a switch and turn shit on is pretty satisfying. I got the vhf, main cabin lights, navigation lights and foredeck light (child circuit of the nav lights) working on four switches. Wiring in a main battery switch, 30 amp main breaker... Was going to try for a first sail but wind was blowing like shit so I started on the DC system.
  2. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Ripped out the switch panel, old solar panel crap, old instrument and computer garbage....unhooked the engine wiring and removed the crappy attempt at shore power. I have a a bunch of shore power related items coming via Amazon. It will be simple but will form the basis of the future electric inboard conversion. The DC realm I have taken the cabin down to the factory runs. Will trouble shoot them when I start working the DC panel and figure out where batteries will goand what instruments I want. KISS is in play....keep it simple stupid. for sure. Sail sea trials are ahead this weekend.....and some more deck hardware planning and config. I have the continuous furler furling but it is a bit of a shit show....not smooth at all....it is a headsail furler not a asymmetrical furler....more on that later.... Looking good though...looks to be a fun guy. Oh and setup a little stereo for so e jams while I work below. This little digital pyle amp with Bluetooth and 12 volt wiring powers Micca MB42X bookshelf speakers (cheap 70 buck speakers that sound brilliant) look this speakers up and be shocked....
  3. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Thanks...I will find out if it sails as well soon...I hope so... And today's project...drilling and tapping the mast vang bracket... A thundershower came through later and I was able to spot the leaks in the boot and one other from below. Then I proceeded to to break the outboard pull rope while trying to tune the engine. So new pull rope needed, it is badly frayed and grew in length. Ugh...plus I find it hates regular unleaded with ethanol. Trying premium....
  4. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    In a slip now...cleaned the deck and continued rigging. Removed the extra toggle in the forestay with a little help by a dock neighbor pulling on a halyard from the dock , so I could line up the clevis pin. I let the boom down and loosened the backstay to slack the fore stay. A bit more force was needed and using the oldest tools...rope and leverage. I after studying the lines found aboard I realized one coil thought to be a long single line was actually two. The light bulb went off and I determined they were the traveler lines. After cleaning I noticed the mainsheet system itself was moved at some point aft. Probably for two reasons....making it easier to get below and for more leverage on the mainsheet as now the mainsheet bails were near the end of the boom. Possibly also a factor is if any of the sails are loose footed. My thinking there is the loads on a mid-boom sheeting system and loose foot could cause boom failure for a boom designed with rope footed mains. (just a guess) The mainsheet itself then became simpler and I abandoned the idea it had a 2 speed system and went with what I saw and what I had.the result pictured below. I added two small blocks on the cockpit floor pad-eye. The furling lines due to the captive nature of the continuous loop of line prevented any blocks from disappearing over time on the hard. The mast was wedged and booted with boot tape. As for rope...interesting article below.... https://www.theguardian.com/science/2020/aug/01/mammoth-tusk-drill-holes-make-rope-change-history-stone-age
  5. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Seems there is an extra toggle on the chainplate for the forestay which cause the misalignment of the furler disk....easy fix. Loosen rig, remove toggle.....duh...
  6. EvaOdland

    ePropulsion and Torqeedo experiences

    1981 Pearson Flyer 4-5 lead acid 100 amp/hr Charged at slip. The kit I am looking at uses a controller that uses pulse width modulation to govern the motor...rather than a giant resistor, and a gear reducer...so the efficiency of turning a propellor shaft at a steady draw is high making it possible to get in and out of a slip or mooring and out to the race course...I'll still have the outboard...see fix it forum for my return thread on the flyer.
  7. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Splash. A small drip from the stuffing box...half of a two speed mainsheet and version one of my cascading dyneema running backstay...(won't sail with version one) version two will good to go. (One of the lower bits I am rethinking.) I will need to buy some blocks to rig like a farr 30 (seems to be the config PO had, but lots of the parts are awol) See attached...it's a harken graphic so you know where that is. But wow, dragonfly looks as I suspected...pretty decent old race boat. More clean up and rigging to come. Current problem is a facnor continuous furler 90 degrees wrong. The leads are to port. I was below when the guys put it on...but I wasn't sure how it went...looks like one too many toggles...digging into manual later... But for the first time rigging a replacement rig I did pretty well...I learned a lot for next time. M30_sternview-lg.gif (1024×932).pdf
  8. EvaOdland

    ePropulsion and Torqeedo experiences

    I am planning on repowering a project boat with this: https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-brushless-sailboat-kit-5kw.html Hope to get the kit ordered in August for cooler weather work below in Sept. Will need to teardown a dead BMW D7 diesel and fab a mount with the help of some mech engineer friends. Well....I look at the gear reduction apparatus has all the mounting stuff I need...it should fit with adjustment on the existing stringer and motor mount. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/gear-reduction-for-electric-inboard-sailboat-motor.html
  9. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    FInd a trusted sailmaker rep that listens? I have only bought new sails once for a boat and told the rep what I was looking for and the kind of sailing I do...he nailed it. That was a UK Sails rep. I told him I did short and single handed and some occasional racing. I wanted a 110-115 and a full batten, two reef main. I was more about balance and handling than power. I dislike overpowered sailing...I got the UK Silver passagemaker composite sails and they were sexy, affordable and leaned toward performance cruising. I like flat sails in general and rely on sail trim to accelerate. Flat, balanced, easy handling....I could focus on sail trim and not struggle to control the boat with sails that were sold for "commission" rather than sailing. He did unexpected things like put the headsail window in the right place, just the right amount of angle on the foot to see under, a little more roach on the main, some room for a cunningham to really be effective, I like a loose foot main and he suggested a velcro boomstrap. Full battens keep sail shape when it gets sloppy in light air and the wieght is offset, I use lazy jacks. This Flyer I have I'll be converting the Dacron main to slugs...to make it easy to raise singlehanded.
  10. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    any problems or gotcha's in flying sails from the masthead? Is that a reacher or gennaker? When I ran the main halyard, I went up over the front sheave then over the back sheave...I wasn't sure if that is okay....it felt very smooth in operation.... Maybe I am not anticipating a problem The lower headsail box has two sheaves per halyard...so I assumed the masthead did as well...
  11. EvaOdland

    Lightweight Interior Construction Ideas

    Watch Leo build Tally Ho and you may want to build it with custom made bronze fasteners and hand carved purple heart...or just some reasonable marine plywood and maybe brass or ss flat head Philips wood screws and some good glue....
  12. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Yes..I know...I now have a toggle on the forstay. From the broken mast headsail exit box I salvaged. The box had more working sheaves but the removal process is pretty invasive and for this season all I needed was one Spinnaker halyard and one jib halyard. Getting the boat sailing is the goal this season. Ramping up the capabilities is next season...all under $5k.... So yeah I do want all the lines. But that comes after determining the on the water seaworthiness. 40 year old race boats were more than likely rode hard, put up wet and left to rot. Maybe for good reasons...but if the hull and rig is sound and the deck firm...that keeps everything within reason. Why? Well the Great Lakes is fresh water and the boats can have a surprising amount of life left in them up here so why not...I find it fun.
  13. EvaOdland

    Antifouling for a daysailer.

    No one has mentioned vc-17 or sr.41 Copper powder based anti-fouling popular in the great lakes.... be good for light fouling conditions...and it is thin...
  14. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    Been working on Dragonfly a bunch over the past couple weeks. I have the mast ready to step with a vang bracket refit. There was one that was removed that left stainless steel rivets behind I. I ground those down and faired the surface for some touch up paint, drilling and tapping for a universal Selden Rodkicker vang bracket, all that came with the boat. Also on "tap" is a temporary floor. The old floor was rotten in the expected place and as such I am covering for the remainder of this season with some decent plywood, made pretty. I cut and pre-fit the pieces and will fair paint the bottoms and sides and varnish the nice top and screw it into the existing floor with brass screws. I also fished new halyards into the mast and refurb sheaves in the exits. Also in the works is a dyneema cascading running backstay. The existing one was a bit furry and was well passed time to replace. So getting some sailor arts in. Something I am still a neophite with but this is version one of the backstay. I found a source of sk75 dyneema and it is pretty easy to work with and inexpensive. Seems the off-roaders found dyneema and are using it on their winches for extreme off-road rocking. I have a mast boot wedge coming from rig-rite so the stepping bits are all good. Also a new vhf antenna and Windex for the masthead with wire and lights testing and re-bulbing. I use a little 3amp 12 volt ac/Dc power transformer from some dead electronic computer thing it works great for testing mast lights. A big part of getting this boat in the water for sea trials is power...I decided to fit an outboard. My pal and I got the motor bracket installed and the old Honda 7.5 setup. Problem with the Garelick Motor Bracket was the mount was for 4 stroke engines up to 30 horsepower. The little 7.5 was not nearly heavy enough to overcome the large torsion springs on the bracket. I found some other model instructions that said to cut the feet off the springs as needed. But this one has two double torsion springs with a total load of around 250 pounds. Cutting the foot would result in a deadly projectile After staring at them for a while I realized I could safely use a grinder to cut the spring itself and the pieces would remain captive. I cut one side tried to lower motor still no go, but it moved. Cutting the other half of the spring I tried and the motor easily went down and up with little effort. Success. It is hot and sticky and I am taking a break from the floor work until it cools down later. I am lounging in Avalon in the AC... Still on track for splash late July. Current spend 2900 for boat, outboard, parts and materials.
  15. EvaOdland

    That 80's Race Boat for Joe Slob - Redux

    I have mulled this over and I think rather than putting in a ton of work prior to fitting the new/used mast I think I will hold off on full refurb of the mast until after I test fit and rig the boat this season. Pull the stick at haul out and clean up the mast fully in fall or spring. (maybe replace with a new stick) Not knowing the story on this rig...I may find it is too tired. I noticed some "waves" in the aluminum in the narrowing of the mast above the headstay. It may be natural or normal distortion of a bendy rig not under load. But I am not 100% sure.