11235

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10 Whiner

About 11235

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    Boston/Rome/St. Pete FL
  • Interests
    Sailing, girls, sailing with girls.

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  1. 11235

    36.7 or 109?

    I can’t speak to sailing ON the 36.7 as I only sailing on one once, but I owned a J/109 from 2004 to 2015, put about 25,000 miles under her keel and did just over 700 races with her in that time, often AGAINST 36.7s both with the standard symmetrical kites as well as modified versions with a sprit and an asym. The 109 was a WONDERFUL boat. Easy to single-hand with jib and main, or double-hand adding the spinnaker into the mix. With the correct sail inventory (3 headsails, 3 spinnakers) she was happy in anything from 5 - 30 knots of true wind. And even though my PHRF rating kept going down while the local 36.7s were going up, we were first across the line and ahead on corrected far more often than not. I didn’t do a lot of extended cruising with her, but when we did away regattas we usually had 2-4 people staying on the boat, and the boat never felt cramped, well, at least not for the FIRST week. The build quality on the boat was wonderful, the most expensive repair I ever had to make to her was replacing the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar when she got a bit fouled up with carbon build-up. By the time I sold her we had her sailing through the water at a few-tenths OVER her polars and pointing ridiculously high upwind, which typically got us to the top mark ahead of the fleet. Once we put up the chute and turned downwind the 36.7s could sail a bit lower and slower than us, but our higher speeds with the hotter angles gave us better VMC to the bottom mark in most conditions. The 36.7s tended to do better if we had races with skewed courses with a lot of reaching NOT under spinnaker. I hope this helps, and I hope you find just the right boat for the type of sailing you want to do…and if that is a J/109, so much the better!!! :-)
  2. 11235

    How do I remove bowsprit cap?

    Yes, the whole sprit is in it's own compartment in the v-berth, and at the aft-most, lowest part of that compartment on the starboard side there is a 3/4" drain hole where any moisture will run out. You can see it in this photo in the lower left corner, cut below and ahead of the vent for the water tanks.
  3. 11235

    How do I remove bowsprit cap?

    Now that I drilled a hole through the cap and ran the bobstay through to a piece of shockcord it does! Turned out that the starboard anchor locker drain hole was in just the right place to run the G10 tube through, so I only had to drill ONE new hole in my boat to install the bobstay!
  4. 11235

    How do I remove bowsprit cap?

    Got it. Turns out the consensus is the cap is NOT removable, so I ended up doing the bobstay project with it in place.
  5. Any suggestions on how to remove the cap on the end of the bowsprit of my J/112E? I removed the large u-bolt at the end that held the Antal ring, and after doing so the cap is now a bit loose and there is perhaps 1/8" of a gap between the cap and the end of the carbon fiber sprit. Before I simply try to apply MORE force, I thought I would ask for advice. So, any advice?? Thanks!
  6. 11235

    Ultrasonic/Electromagnetic Speed Logs?

    I used the S46 reversible winches as my primary winches for trimming the jib. In less than 10 knots of TWS they worked fine, but once the wind speed/loads came up the clutch that was supposed to switch it from low speed to reverse would fail, and you could either grind in at 10:1 or ease the line out, but could not get the 46:1 low-speed mode to engage. So I have swapped them our for the Selden S54 winches, just two-speeds (10:1 and 54:1) and the old fashioned "take it out of the self-tailer and ease it out by hand" method for easing. The R40s on my mainsail seem to work pretty well, and occasional slip but a little back and forth with the handle and the clutch sorts itself out. Still trying to decide whether or not to swap those out too, the reverse gear is VERY useful when single-handing.
  7. 11235

    Ultrasonic/Electromagnetic Speed Logs?

    I went with the Airmar DST900+ on my install last year, and it has never worked right. Shows the boat moving through the water while it is at the slip, shows a 3 knot boatspeed when it is actually going 7 knots, and a 20 knot speed when it’s going 5. Airmar e me a paddle wheel to use while they try to troubleshoot, but no luck in figuring it out. Sadly, I found all of the “fancy” upgrades I did (Airmar transducer, Selden reversible winches, United Maior roller furler) have performed horribly, and I am in the process of replacing them all with the standard spec equipment.
  8. 11235

    J109 tips and tricks

    Had my J/109 for 12 years, sailed her 25K miles and did about 700 races with her. Won a lot of them. So... Yes, she wants to be flat to reduce leeway. First, if the rig was tuned for 8 knots then that is the biggest issue. We had a baseline setting for 10-14 knots, then would back it off 2, 1-1/2 and 1 turns on the uppers, mids and lowers for light breeze day (whole forecast under 8 knots) or up the same amount for big breeze day (whole forecast over 15). Regardless of rune, as the breeze comes up, the backstay goes on, traveller goes down, main gets sheeted in more, Cunningham gets snugged up (or main halyard goes up), jib car moves back, jib halyard goes up and job gets trimmed in. Once we are in the high teens, the traveler is likely all the way down, so we would go to Vang sheeting, with the vang flattening the main and the main sheet then effectively becoming the traveler. Making the main SUPER FLAT was key to depowering it in bigger breeze and keeping her from sliding sideways. Also, as the driver I would work aggressively to pre-feather in the puffs...just before they would hit I would come up a few degrees to get some extra "ups" and keep the puff from knocking us over on our side. This would allow us to work up on any boats to windward of us, and allow us to force them to tack away as we gained height on them. And yes, in the high teens I would say you should have ALL of your backstay on, well, all of it except for the last inch or so, which we would never put on. Keep shifting gears as the wind speed changes, working from the back of the boat forwards to depower, and the front of the boat to the back to power up. And enjoy the boat...she is a lot of fun to sail/race!!!
  9. Jackolantern, good stuff. Pretty much sums up the best practices I've seen on a bunch of other posts. Already using Ubi Maior for my jin furler, so that would be the natural fit here. And Pscho Tiller, yes, a smaller, flatter asym was another thought, but looking to run this in light breeze short handed, so the furling ease of the Code 0 seems like the way to go.
  10. Tim, Looking good with Elevation...and nice trim with that jib with the inhaulers!! I'm leaning towards going with the cableless code 0 from Doyle, makes the storage of the sail when not deployed a bit easier. Lots of different ways to go, I'll be interested to see what the latest/greatest setups people are using. When do you splash? Almost got to 70 degrees in Boston today, it won't be long!!
  11. Happy Spring everyone! Almost time for the boat (a J/112E named dopodomani) to get back in the water for her first full season, after a short first year in 2018 with a July delivery. The bit of sailing we did last year with our standard jib and main along with an A1.5 and an A2 spinnaker found the boat going pretty well in most conditions. One area she struggled was in close reaching in the very light stuff, or as we call it up in Massachusetts Bay, summer! As such, I am considering adding a Code 0 to the inventory this year, which I think will be very helpful especially when cruising double-handed with the wife when the wind is down in the single digits. There are a bunch of code 0 threads in the archives about the sails, the bowsprit/bobstay configuration and such for the J/109/111/121, and the 112 should not be all that different. But my question to all that are using code zeros with their sprit boats is what is the state of the art? And what did you do that you had to go back and change?? For example: - Do you extend the bowsprit all the way, or just partially? - Do you use a bobstay? If so, how did you add it to the boat? - Do you tack the code 0 to the end of the sprit, or have a soft collar around the middle of the sprit making it easier to “peel” to an asym? - Are you using a cabled or cableless code 0? - What are the preferred furlers? - If close reaching in light breeze, how high can you point? - If beam reaching, do you keep the jib out and trimmed as well? - What blocks do you run the code 0 sheets through, the existing spinnaker blocks or dedicated blocks at a different position than the spin blocks? And of course, if you’ve added a code 0 to the quiver, how has it performed, how often do you use it, and at what true/apparent wind speed/angles can it operate? As you can see, I’m looking for a good data dump to help me to decide how to best add this to my J/112E. And as I said, I’ve gone through a lot of different posts both in the J/Boat Anarchy section and the Gear section (I do know how to do a search) as well as some other great websites like the Blur site, but I’m looking for the latest/greatest Spring 2019 setups that people may be using. Thanks in advance!
  12. Cool? Just the "new" kid on the block! ;-)
  13. Bill, I was doing some Googling on crew management tools this morning and found your post...just signed up for the 30 day trial to see how it would work for my new boat, now that my old J/109 "Superstition" has morphed into my new J/112E "dopodomani"! I look forward to testing it out and if all goes well signing up for a subscription. I'll also tell all of my other racing friends about it here in Mass Sailing. I may have a few idea on how you could market this up in the Boston area, if you're interested DM me. Thanks!
  14. 11235

    Airmar leeway measuring log/depth sensor

    I have one on order to be installed with B&G electronics on a J/112E. My understanding at this point is that the speed/temp/depth info will make it to the mast displays, but the leeway data will only show up on the Airmar app running on the iPad. Like the idea of no paddlewheel, interested to see if it truly displays speed as a negative number while moving backwards!! With any luck, I'll have some real-world feedback for you by the end of June!