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About 2airishuman

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    Minneapolis area
  • Interests
    Sailing, SCUBA, music performance, aviation, mountains

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  1. 2airishuman

    Sailing Dinghy Recommendations

    Sailing performance on all the tenders is limited by waterline length. Differences among them are minor and mostly have to do with the capabilities of the rig. To the extent information is available, DPNs for the 8-10' tenders are all around 120 and for 12' tenders around 115. This puts them 10-15% slower than a Sunfish but still considerably faster than a Puddle Duck Racer or a sailing canoe. The tradeoff with the rigs is ease of deployment vs. capabilities. You can put up a big Bermuda rig with reef points which will sail the best in the widest range of conditions but the spars are long posing a storage problem and it's time consuming to set up. At the other end you can have a sprit or standing lug with shorter spars and less running rigging if you are willing to give up some pointing ability and accept a compromise sail area with fewer reefing options rather than a large sail that is reefed early.
  2. 2airishuman

    Sailing Dinghy Recommendations

    Production boats Trinka Fatty Knees Gig Harbor Dyer Dhow - at 9'1", small by today's standards Walker Bay - inexpensive but not highly regarded Porta Bote - less suitable for rowing or sailing Portland Pudgy Polycraft Tuff Tender Plans/kit CLC Passagemaker PT-11 (kit only) B&B Spindrift Bateau FB-11 (plans only) Bespoke Artisan Boatworks Catspaw Planing hard dinghies (some have rigs) Octender Aluminum 12' utility boats e.g. Lund A-12 Sunfish or Direct Boats Laker 12 - these are heavy but lighter, less beamy versions exist from other makers Abaco 11 (plans only) Bateau GV-10 and GV-11 (plans only)
  3. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    Makita and Milwaukee tools are made by the same company. They are different tools for different markets, and the battery platforms aren't compatible. The Makita side of the house has gone down the "multiple battery packs" road, as you describe. The Milwaukee side of the house is very much committed to "one battery pack at a time" for portable equipment, and so they have this huge 200 wh pack that the chainsaw uses, along with some of their other landscape equipment and small stationary tools like chop saws. The important thing for handheld equipment is not energy (watt-hours) but power, particularly the maximum number of watts the pack can deliver for the duration of a typical cut. That, and making the electric motors smaller and lighter, is where the engineering effort has been going. They don't state in their specs how much power they can pull out of their packs but I would guess that they are pulling at least 100 amps from the largest ones (like on the chainsaw), which would give them 2 HP at the shaft.
  4. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    I am in the process of replacing all of my corded electric tools, air tools, and portable gasoline-powered tools with battery ones. Cars too. High-performance lithium batteries have changed everything. Like many, I learned how to work on cars on a Volkswagen Beetle back in the early 1970s with the help of John Muir's epic tome, "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive." I've fixed engines, transmissions, cars, trucks, skid loaders, farm machinery, dump trucks, jeeps, ATVs, chainsaws, weed whips, lawnmowers, and boats for myself, friends, and family. Too many to remember, valve jobs, engine replacements, carbs, emissions controls, everything. It's all a bunch of fiddley shit that requires constant attention and it's going the way of vacuum tube console stereos, the blowtorch, creosote wood preservative, and incandescent light bulbs. Milwaukee makes a fantastic electric chainsaw. The reviews are fantastic even though they have a problem with the stud that holds the bar in place breaking loose, nobody cares, they get it fixed under the 5-year warranty when it happens and figure they'll buy another saw just like it at the end of 5 years. These are landscapers who use saws all the time. It is a small saw, about enough power for a 16" narrow-kerf blade. One of these days I'll get one. I have a Stihl 044, big saw, fantastic, carb requires attention now and again. In a few more years someone will have an electric replacement for that, too. Boat motors are going to be one of the last things to be replaced by electric because of the energy density problem, but the day will come.
  5. 2airishuman

    Handheld VHF that is seldom used...Maintenance

    Use of VHF to communicate between a mothership and tender is permitted as it is no different than VHF communications between any other two vessels. The 2016 change codifies long-standing practice. The summary you posted (which I believe came from Boatus) is incorrect and is based on a proposed change that was never adopted. The actual rules are in 47 CFR 80.115, and technically limit operation to areas "adjacent to the water, such as docks and beaches." The rules as adopted do allow communications between two handheld VHF radios as well, not just communications between the handheld and the mothership.
  6. 2airishuman

    Handheld VHF that is seldom used...Maintenance

    I have the RT systems cable. Yaesu gives the software away for free as I recall. There are plenty of places where it can be downloaded. It will work on 2m but tx performance is iffy especially with the stock antenna.
  7. 2airishuman

    It's my world now...

    Well, Ajax, what will be the first of your many abuses of power? So much from which to choose.... requiring dock lines to be Bristolled... coin operated shore power... harassment of vendors... limitations on owner maintenance...
  8. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    Your expensive plastic tank is probably fine. The test is whether it gives off a good deal of gasoline stink on a hot day. If it does, it's permeable, if not, you're good. Same test applies to the hose. If you can take the fuel tank off the boat between uses, and keep it (safely) in a cooler location, that will help too. It's a hassle.
  9. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    At $20 a gallon, it's a very expensive way to buy your gasoline. Might be useful for things like snowblowers or chainsaws, which most people use less than 5 hours a year, and where summer storage is the problem. But for a boat?
  10. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    I can't emphasize enough the importance of staying away from cheap plastic gas cans. I switched to metal safety cans about 7 years ago and have had far fewer problems with fuel. They are also better for fire safety both during storage and while filling or dispensing.
  11. 2airishuman

    Ethanol and outboard carbs

    If replacement carbs are available and cost effective then just replace it. You will need a new gasket, probably, maybe not if the old carb has been removed recently. I don't know much about the Nissan/Tohatsu carbs specifically but the newer ones are hard to work on. It took me three tries to get the Yamaha 8 carb for my boat to work the way it should. On the third try I removed all the little drive-in caps and ended up running a wire through a hidden little blocked passage that no amount of solvent and compressed air would free up. Even the people who work on boat motors for a living don't bat 1.000 with carb work. Then if you need a winter project you can fiddle around rebuilding the old carb. After years of dealing with small engines, plus discussing fuel with a chemical engineer who worked in the petroleum business, I offer you this advice, based on the practices I follow myself. Heat, time, exposure to air, and contamination with particulates and water are the problems. Use sealed containers made of metal or nonpermeable plastic and keep them sealed. I use safety cans. In containers that are not sealed, the butane fraction evaporates, the fuel reacts with oxygen, and water condenses out of the air or is absorbed by ethanol-containing fuel (which is hygroscopic). Fuel deteriorates quickly over the summer if exposed to heat, and does not deteriorate to any material degree over the winter, at least in places where it snows, as long as it is in a sealed container. In the summer, rotate fuel before it deteriorates, and safely dispose of questionable fuel. Keep fuel as cool as possible, by keeping it in the shade. In hot weather, do not load more fuel than you can use in a few months. Fuel kept in a sealed container at 50 degrees will last years if not decades. Use the new EPA-approved nonpermeable hoses between the tank and the motor, because the fuel deteriorates less in them. Replace them once they are 10 years old, including new ends and a new primer bulb (if you use one), because if they leak air you will be stranded on the lake. Don't reuse the ends unless you replace the o-rings, eventually they will leak air too Consider switching to a metal tank or a nonpermeable plastic tank. Some motors need to have a pressure regulator added for use with a nonpermeable tank or they will flood, because the pressure becomes elevated when the tank gets hot. Use two small tanks rather than one large tank to facilitate rotating fuel. Or, use one small tank, and a safety can. Disassemble your fuel tank, clean the pickup screen, and wash the inside out with strong solvents every few years. Replace all the rubber and plastic fuel system components in your outboard every 10 years, that is, the fuel pump and all the hoses, and the fuel bowel and gasket (if equipped) Clean or replace the fuel filter in your outboard every year. Consider adding a finer paper element filter if your outboard only has a screen. Replace it often. I do not use Sta-bil or similar products because I do not believe they help to any material degree. For boats the off-season is winter and the fuel will be fine without treatment. For snowblowers and snowmobiles I try to end the season with as little fuel in the tank as possible because the butane fraction will be gone by fall and they won't start without starting fluid. Use ethanol-free gasoline if you can get it, because it improves your odds, but don't obsess over it. Some very old fuel system parts will deteriorate quickly upon exposure to ethanol, but unless your motor is an antique and you use NOS parts, this does not apply to you. The problem with ethanol is that it absorbs water, and once it has absorbed enough water the fuel will separate into two layers, one of watery ethanol and another layer with all the alkane fractions. The water in solution with the fuel will also cause any steel fuel system components to rust, leading to particulate contamination. Be cognizant that in places where it snows the petroleum producers switch blends seasonally. Winter gas has shorter alkane chains, all they way down to butane, to improve cold weather starting performance. Winter gas has a higher vapor pressure as a result and will tend to evaporate in vented tanks in hot weather, and cause higher fuel system pressures in the new epa-compliant nonpermeable tanks, which are unvented. It possibly deteriorates faster although sources vary on this and it may depend on what the producer has actually put in it. Summer gas has exclusively the longer alkane chains and a lower vapor pressure, and if you put it in your snowblower in January then your snowblower won't start because the fuel won't vaporize in a cold engine. Turn off the fuel valve or disconnect the hose, and run the engine until the fuel in the bowl is exhausted, before storing the engine for more than a week or two. The main reason for this is that you can start the engine with fresh fuel that hasn't been sitting in the carb bowl, where it is exposed to air and humidity. In most places, there's a household hazardous waste collection facility that will accept old gasoline in reasonable quantities. You can use an automotive repair type suction gun to transfer fuel out of containers and tanks safely as when dealing with small outboards that have integral tanks. Do it outside, away from sources of ignition.
  12. 2airishuman

    First (and hopefully last). Pan. Pan

    You must have a dog that doesn't fart. Maybe you feed it one of those designer dog foods that are supposed to result in reduced dogshit.
  13. 2airishuman

    Handheld VHF that is seldom used...Maintenance

    I have an HX300 and two HX380s. We use them not only on the sailboat but for canoe and kayak trips, and I have the HX380 programmed with some amateur radio channels for use on land. Some people might choose to program the MURS frequencies, which are license free and can be used on land and water, although I think that technically the HX380 isn't certified for compliance with the MURS rules. The HX300 floats, and it can be recharged from a USB charger, both of which make it a good choice for canoe and kayak trips. The HX380 doesn't float but is submersible. It uses a drop-in charger which is more convenient for charging it while it is use, but it requires the special charger and can't use an ordinary USB one. Controls are more intuitive. The battery pack itself is sealed separately, unlike the HX300, so you can change battery packs in a wet environment. The AA tray is sealed and is submersible once you put the cover on it (even if it is not installed on the radio). Unlike the HX300, the lithium packs can be recharged whether or not they are in the radio. And it can be programmed with commercial and amateur VHF channels. For typical standby use I sometimes get more than 24 hours on one charge. There are a couple of waterproof headsets that are nice, choice of earbud style or over-the-head.
  14. 2airishuman

    Electric Question

    The li-ion jump starter doesn't have enough energy to recharge the much larger deep cycle battery. Jump packs like that are intended for engine starting, and can provide a brief burst of power to do that. With cheap voltmeters you have to look to see how far you are in the 1-volt difference between 90% charge and 10% charge. The exact voltages don't matter much because they are affected by temperature, discharge current, measurement error, and battery age. So you As a matter of principle and safety I don't depend on jump packs for routine non-emergency use. I have a family member who tries to get me to go along with those sorts of shenanigans on turf care equipment and I won't do it. If you're running the battery down then getting more/bigger batteries or reducing the load will make you happier and take you farther than adding instrumentation. There are various fancy integrating ammeters out there that will give you accurate charge/discharge/battery condition info but on a small boat they are more expensive (especially installed) than just doubling the battery capacity
  15. 2airishuman

    Handheld VHF that is seldom used...Maintenance

    It depends on the radio, it depends on the antenna, and it depends what you expect. A handheld VHF with a stock antenna will reliably hail nearby (<1 mile) boats. In many cases it can be used to hail USCG shore stations. In a rescue or recovery situation it can be used to contact searchers and coordinate response. If a separate high-quality antenna is available, practical performance will rival most permanent radio installations in a smaller, lighter package that doesn't rely on the boat's electrical system. They are also useful for communications between the mothership and tender and for communications with shore parties, particularly in remote areas where cellular coverage is poor.