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About Thistle1678

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  1. looks like there are spider cracks near the back of that slot. roughly under the damage inside so I think the boat had a fall in its history. If you're not a fiberglass efficinato I would leave it be (or find someone who is nearby) you can try your sealant skills in the meantime. Messaged you about the sails.. The centerboard looks line it's got an inch or so more to travel if the tackle isn't getting the job done you may need to move that eye in the cable forward a bit the board should retract until it's against the front of the trunk It's often close but should be fully retracted. edit: you can also do an additional wrap of the wire much easier then moving the eye! If you have the drum style wheel to raise the board, some boats use a purchase system others have the drum.
  2. Reasons for crack damage: lifting boat full of water (there is usually a hoist point on the trunk back there, or standing in the boat while poorly supported (stress or tipping the trailer)! Slamming down on the transom isn't good for boats we've all done it though wandering too far back in the boat on the hard! You will likely find 1/4 round wood behind that cracked glass, then the CB trunk glass behind that water coming in means probably both layers are cracked. To do the repair right you should carefully remove the now soggy wood repair any underlying hull/trunk damage from the inside, replace wood, and re-glass. Fiddly and annoying but it's the real fix. For the time being you can patch with thickened epoxy and minimal glass to stem the flood. Also I may have a spare old thistle jib beyond it's racing lifetime so not worth much, If you cover shipping it's yours! (will verify it's still in my attic if you're interested) I also have "practice/bedsheet" grade spinnakers sitting in a bag..
  3. Yup, although I don't like the becket-block shown in that diagram, usually the mainsheet dead ends to the boom on another eye strap. And hey now that you know how to step the mast easier... lower it the same way, halyard as a hinge to guide it down! if there's a good stopper on the jib halyard you can sky it completely and use that as the hinge, I do that on purpose at the end of a regatta...
  4. Check the rake first with the lever on as is, Thistles basically two-block the main much like a laser at max trim (the boom block and traveler block touching) I have a little more space then that so I don't quite two block in at the 27 foot rake measurement, every sail cut is a little different and since you can double check as you did by putting it up and seeing what happens when you sheet it tight. You don't want it to two block before your sail is tight though so it may take some experimentation. Oh and I have a 100' ribbon type tape for rake measurements rather then the self retracting kind, the ribbon ones usually have an open bail on the end you can tie the main halyard too to haul it up to check rake. Also I just noticed I typed "tie the halyards to the rig" I had ment ring! the spinnaker pole mast ring is handy for that :-)
  5. Also if you are on your own you can use one the two foresail halards as a safety line/temporary forestay by tying it to a bow line or a line attached to the trailer. Use whichever halyard you can reach and tension easier! The other still serves as a hinge.
  6. The deck stepped mast is daunting but not as hard as you think once you get comfortable stepping over the thwart while pushin it up! My recommended method is to tie off the jib and spin halyard to the rig and then snug them up with the mast but lying on the step ready to raise, then the halyards act like a hing, sometime requiring a small lift to get the but into the step, but at least it gets you 95% there. The boat should have a highfield lever where the forestay attaches to the stem, allowing you to attach the forestay under low tension, the best setups have a "pigtail" section of forestay that leaves a eye above the rail to pin the stay to. Once the lever is thrown the tension on the rig should be close to right (220-300lbs if you have loose gauge) Mast rake, measured from the sheave for the main halyard to the BOTTOM of the tiller hole should be ~27 feet
  7. Class requires at least one 2.5 gallon bucket, I carry 2! Typically after a bad swamping the centerboard trunk is at/bellow waterline and the rails at the transom are almost awash as well. Step 1 is generally to bail like crazy to get the centerboard trunk above water (stuffing a spinnaker or other material in the slot is a sometimes solution to make it easier) Then you can start to sail it dry. In a seaway with any waves you may still be taking on too much water over the rails aft to make headway, this is where there transom flaps help, pop them open and get the water out fast! You are required to have I thin 700 lbs total foam flotation, typically this is read as having the seat tanks and bow tank full of foam, the aft tanks are hit and miss for needing more foam but it's not a bad idea...
  8. Oh and on the sails, now is the Fall discount on new sails , so hit the class mailing lists and website to see if someone is selling year old (or few year old) sails as they order new for next season. and you can search out the yahoo group for email.
  9. A typical treatment is sail repair cloth (insignia cloth sticky back) It's a break in case of emergency bailer, can't really recommend leaving them uncovered for any length of time, you may swamp just hanging your rudder after you launch! I built up plexiglass hinged flaps to survive ramp launches, overkill, probably but it works.
  10. Thistle1678

    caption contest

    OK I owe you a beer, turns out we can't clear the bridge at high tide...
  11. Thistle1678

    Interesting New Lifesaving Device

    I don't remember the price quoted (but it was and it was up there ) I just worried about bonking the person in the face with it at 15 knots if the operator was a little over zealous!
  12. Thistle1678

    Dark Side of the Clipper Ships Book

    Seriously impressed watching Pride sail over top of the windward mark of our college course! much better than you would think. (Last year, sadly no Pride this year)...
  13. Thistle1678

    Interesting New Lifesaving Device

    It was demoed in Newport at the VOR stopover, sits pretty low in the water so in may work in pretty lousy conditions. Limit is probably being able to see it to guide it to the PIW if they are further away! It works on either side once in the water, could be mounted and deployed like a MOM module. Kinda big for most boats though
  14. Thistle1678

    Dark Side of the Clipper Ships Book

    Article references both, easy there! Also probably depends on the angle of sail and if we can lose them amongst those shoals...
  15. Thistle1678

    from FP---rescue from sailboat in the Med

    Another perfectly good boat abandoned...