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About Jubblies

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  • Birthday 02/28/1972

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    Toledo, OH

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  1. Jubblies

    Best Genny Sheets

    I second this. Alpha SSR will be my mainsheet and genoa sheets next year replacing the current ones which are FSE Robline Admiral 5000. I wanted to replace them with something similar in stretch and creep performance, but a little less stiff and easier on the trimmers hands. Alpha SSR was the clear winner, and since it's a single braid it is much easier to splice and work with.
  2. Jubblies

    Backstay Flicker Batten

    I was going to try to do this as a DIY project over the winter, but it sounds like the RBS system is the way to go for me. We don't need much, just the last few inches seem to be the continuous problem. The 9.1s main is roachy, but not M32 roachy!
  3. Jubblies

    Backstay Flicker Batten

    I made the big leap to go to a Dyneema backstay and cascade system on our S2 9.1 last year. This boat has a pretty roachy main that gets hung up in light air pretty frequently. Going to the Dyneema and cascade system definitely helped compared to the old rod rigging and pinch adjuster system that's stock for the boat. However it got better at best. I know a few other masthead rig boats around here have added a flicker and it seems to solve the problem as long as you have someone remembering to tack/gybe the backstay. So my question is about the batten itself... 1. How long... 2. How thick... 3. I know that fiberglass battens don't hold up very well to UV, but I am thinking some of this could be solved with a couple coats of Awegrip? My initial thoughts are Bainbridge Epoxy E-Glass Batten 3/4"w x .3"thk x 60"l And go....
  4. Jubblies

    Racing Crew Management Software

    I use Air Table. Think of it as a spreadsheet on steroids. We had a mostly new team top to bottom this year and a heavy schedule. I had it set so that users could edit select fields and add themselves. I could also add a lot of other notes, and insert and store copies of the NRs and SIs so that the entire team had access. Although it's not a tool dedicated to sailing, it turned out to be a great tool. I'm sure I'm not using it to its highest abilities either.
  5. Jubblies

    Whatever happened to triangles?

    Right, the thing about drag racing is that it's drag racing! Want to win a drag race? Find a way to make the boat go faster than the guy in front of you!
  6. Jubblies

    Whatever happened to triangles?

    Although not "triangle" courses, racing over here on the Western end of Lake Erie, we get plenty of opportunities to reach. I think reaching around buoys would be boring though as there is not a lot to think about on a short 1 mile reach. What makes reaching around the islands interesting and tactical are the decisions that have to be made... Are there going to be leeward holes at any given rock? Do I take the high line with a genoa and reach down with the chute? How do I position myself not to get walked over by the bigger boats? Am I watching the shift trends so when we turn upwind/downwind we get ourselves on the right side of the next leg? Additionally reaching is a discipline all on it's own... The genoa gets a whole different approach to trimming. For example what we have found on our boat to much success is that it's not just as simple as getting an outboard lead. We started this year leading the sheet aft to the spin blocks and then using the spin tweakers to control the clew height rather than a using a block too control for/aft lead position to be significantly faster. Spinnakers, and especially symmetrical spinnakers are trimmed completely different. Things like a low profile pole setting the tack low with a high clew, become considerations when tight reaching with the chute. I consider all these to be skill sets that get lost with straight forward windward/leeward courses, but when the reach is so short on a closed course most of these decisions go away and the ensuing parade begins.
  7. Jubblies

    Geezer-friendly One Designs

    As a former J22 owner, I can attest to the fact it ticks off every single one of your boxes with the added bonus that it's comfortable to sail and easy boat to get down the highway to campaign.
  8. Jubblies

    Thickened epoxy in a tube recommendations?

    I keep a tube and a few extra nozzles of Six10 on hand at all times!
  9. Jubblies

    Tuff Luff Aero vs. Harken Carbo

    Thanks everyone for the feedback. I have to say, I REALLY like the Gorilla G-track. Just not sure if I can get one for a measly little 30 footer. According to their documentation, they are geared towards bigger boats with only extrusions for #6+. I'm not bothered by it being single groove. In the last years, I can't remember the last time we had to do an upwind sail change. I would have to say the time lost in going bare headed on the once and a long while is worth the overall advantage to a system like this. I'm a bit retentive about weight aloft, so this system would fit well into accommodating my neurosis. As far as the Harken Carbo vs. Tuff Luff Aero is concerned, it seems like it's a "six and one half dozen the other" scenario. I guess it will just come down to which one is on sale when I order it.
  10. Jubblies

    low friction rings for spin sheet turning blocks?

    It's actually very interesting conversation! I run two sets of blocks for our spin gear (57mm light air and 75mm heavy air blocks) and a third 40mm set for the tweakers. I thought of a couple of ideas when placing them. 1. I don't really care much for lashings. I find them unreliable at times. If you don't lash it just right, the lashing can slip out and you have a mess or life in your hands. 2. A splice is always better than a knot. So this is what I did... For each block I spliced about a 9 inch circumference continuous dyneema loop from 5mm Amsteel. (you may want 6mm for your loads just to be on the safe side). Then I created a luggage tag to the toe rail with the loop with attention given to make sure the top of the splice was part of the luggage tag as an extra measure to hold the splice in place. Lastly I attached the block to the loop. Our blocks are not something like the Harken T2 blocks where they are designed for lashing applications, so I just attached the blocks to the loop using the traditional swivel shackles on the block. This has been tested all summer under some pretty good loads and other than some constructional stretch and the normal stretch that comes with Amsteel, they have shown no signs of coming near blowing out! Now with that being said. I've done some research and found the I really like the properties of Loopx tape... http://www.protect-tapes.com/products/loopx I'll probably switch out my lashings to this next season.
  11. Yea, I really like the idea of a Code 0, it fills the gap all the way through the range I want to fill. The challenge is the question of whether 3 seconds a mile for 3 or 4 races a year is worth it. This is of course assuming I'm not missing something in my interpretation of the rule, or if the sailmakers in the area already have a work around for it.
  12. I am sitting here considering expanding our inventory next season for our S2 9.1. Our current inventory is in a state of flux. There's a blend of a few older sails and the rest are either new or still not at the replacement stage yet. The big three (main, 155%, jib, and runner) are all either still in good shape or brand new. So this season I want to work on filling the gaps in the inventory based on where we keep getting spanked for not keeping up with the Joneses when we do nearshore and around the islands courses. The first area is our #2. This one is easy, just buy a new one. The area I really need to think out is between about 60° - 100°. In most conditions up to about 12 knots, we can carry the AP runner up to about 100°, and in the softer breeze we can push that to about 90°. After this we are forced to go to our #1 and we consequently get killed by either fractional rig boats like the Abbott 33s that can sail much higher angles with a full kite, or the other boats in out fleet that have gone the route of adding either an A3 or a C0 to their arsenal. Because I am already planning on buying a new #2 this winter, I can't go gangbusters on filling this gap. My thoughts are... Follow the pack and get an A3 we launch from the pole. My understanding of PHRF Lake Erie is that the rating is not adjusted as long as the mid girth is correct and the finished sail area is the same as a symmetrical kite would be. Take the rating hit on a Code 0 (If I am reading this correctly we would see 3 seconds a mile for this) Go the route of a Jib Top and Staysail combination. I'm trending towards #3 for a couple of reasons. The biggest reason being versatility. The Job Top would give me a higher angle range than an A3 would, and if I need/want extra power the staysail would provide this and the added bonus of helm balance. Although I am not shy about spinnaker changes, my crew is still on a learning curve. I think that putting up an A3 and doing spinnaker peels is a whole new skill set, and I want to focus on developing other skill sets first with them. This leaves me with one BIG question though, and that is how deep can I go with this configuration? I can see easily how it helps at say about 50° to maybe 80°, but am I negating any advantage over an A3 at 90° to say 100°? And talking heads go...
  13. Jubblies

    Tuff Luff Aero vs. Harken Carbo

    Yea, I remember reading about these. If they made one for a #5, I would be in 100%
  14. Jubblies

    Tuff Luff Aero vs. Harken Carbo

    Not sure I'm familiar with G-Foil?
  15. We had a little chunk of track break off of our aged Tuff Luff foil a few weeks ago. I'm leaving it for now as there is only about a month left in our season, however my motto has always been if it's old and it breaks, replace the system not just the part. The new file will go on my spring list! So before I order a new system, any feedback, pros & cons on Tuff Luff Aero vs. Harken Carbo?