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Everything posted by Jubblies

  1. Jubblies

    Black Widow Bottom Paint

    Having just gone through applying this to my bottom I will say this. Unless you are prepared for A LOT of work burnishing don't do it. Also be prepared to have a significant amount of paint buildup for the burnishing. This paint is going to show every imperfection in the undercoat, so get your barrier coat (or what ever you are painting over) very smooth first, otherwise you will burn through a lot of expensive paint to get it right. Even after taking these precautions, we still had significant orange peel from rolling with a 1/8 nap roller and the paint reduced between 5-10% depending on the temp and humidity. We did not "roll and tip", but I would certainly roll and tip in the future to minimize this. We applied 4 coats to a 30 foot hull (about a gallon and a half) and after burnishing I still had some spots I had to touch up because we burnt through.
  2. I just spoke with someone down here on Lake Erie that purchased a boat from a local marina and were transporting it to Montreal. No issues for them getting into the US, although they were required to fly in rather than drive. Once they check back in to Canada they have to quarantine on the vessel for 14 days. Their sailing time from Pelee Island to Montreal is included as part of the 14 days, as long as they don't come ashore and no one else boards the vessel.
  3. Jubblies

    Getting Tough With The Maskless

    If you think a mask inhibits your ability to breathe comfortably, wait 'till you see what COVID-19 will do for ya! I honestly don't understand why people have such an issue with it, other than it was made to be a very specific political issue. The ONLY reason to not wear one, is because "my tribe says this is bullshit". I hope that none of the anti-maskers, anti-vacc'ers, and anti anything that isn't totally self serving, don't ever have to experience losing a loved one to there selfishness.
  4. Can you make a "PHRF cheater"? I would say yes. Over the years it's been my observation that most boats are sailing at or below their ratings, and occasionally a few boats are way out performing their ratings. The question is why? Now we all know that there are some boats out there that are flat out not rated accurately. There are reasons these anomalies exist such as lack of data points on low production boats, but Im not talking about these. I'm talking about the high production boat with a well established rating. Let's first look at "a well established rating". This is a problematic statement. Take look at a random boat that fits this category. Say a J-30. This boat was in production for 7 years ending in 1986. This means that the NEWEST J-30 is now 34 years old. When was the last time your local PHRF board re-assessed the rating for a J-30. My guess would be 34 years ago! Why is this important? Looking around at the PHRF fleets I've sailed in over the last 30 years, there is something consistent. The average age of the fleet tends to be stuck in 20 year old boats. I would venture to guess this is largely based on the affordability of 20 year old boats. Well with this in mind we have to remember that things happen to a boat in 20 years. Decks get wet, Blisters form, As a result of a wet'ish - wet boat, the boat flexes more, Sail design and technology changes, Bottom and foils get sanded on so many times, they are no where near their original shape (if they ever were to begin with) These are just a few things I can think of off the top of my head that will slow down the performance of the boat. If you can think of more, I'd love to hear. What does this all have to do with making a PHRF cheater? I would think it's pretty obvious... Buy any well established 20-30 year old boat Fix the shit... Re-core the deck, long board the bottom, template the foils, and replace, glass in, and/or reinforce all the areas of the boat that may have been fatigued and flexing over the years. This will be easy once you start the process, because as you fix one area the loads will start transferring to the next weakest point until you reach the transom! Done right it will probably flex less than when it was first delivered. It's pretty obvious that you will never sail at or above your rating if you're putting up 20 year old rags. I would contend that there are significant differences between the sails we used even as recent as ten years ago and the sails we use now. They simply stretch significantly less, and are significantly lighter. Directly translating to more power and less heel. Chances are the guy winning in your PHRF fleet has them. Upgrade your gear. Again technology has changed. Modern hardware handles more load and handles easier, with the added bonus of being more than likely lighter in weight. Upgrade your cordage. If you don't think it's a big deal, do yourself a favor. Change one halyard from polyester to vectran, then report back to me. Again, I think the list could be much larger. This is just the start, and again would love to hear the feedback. The point being you can start to see how one could start transforming that old (insert whichever 30 year old boat) into a "PHRF cheater", simply based on the fact that PHRF generally either has not, or does not adjust ratings over time for how a boat degrades, but most importantly how peak maintenance and new technology can effect older designs. Stop looking for the ultimate cheater... MAKE YOUR OWN!
  5. Jubblies

    My balls fell out

    1. What's the track measurement? Harken mid range is 27mm. 2. Having done this in the past I can only say use the loader, or hate life!
  6. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    Just a follow up on this thread to my original post... After sanding out most of our first f-d up two coats, I changed up my mixing technique. I put it on a shaking machine for about 10 minutes. Believe it or not there was still solid clumps after that beat down, so I finished by mixing with a drill mixer and then strained it. I also discovered that this paint if rolling on, really takes well to being tipped. Four coats (with redtree foam rollers and tipped) later and the final result is a finish I am pretty happy with that will be far less painful to burnish and should minimize the amount of product removed. On my test board, I was able to start at 500 grit to get things flat. Will be burnishing this weekend and should be able to post some pictures!
  7. After months of sanding off the old bottom, longboarding, fairing, over applying a new barrier coat and then sanding 1/2 of it off to get it smooth, we are finally in the final stages and applying the new bottom! My plan this past weekend was to get two thin coats (1/8 nap foam) down on the hull and then use this as a sanding surface to flatten and remove any eggshell left from the barrier coat application. With that being said, I have a few questions for those out there who've applied and burnished Black Widow or other similar hard bottom paints. 1. We started rolling this out with Redtree yellow foam rollers which claim to be solvent resistant. Although most of the paint went on very well and flowed out nicely, we had issues with little fuzzies all over the hull. This was after taking extra precaution de-linting the rollers with masking tape first. After the first coat dried to it's overcoat time I was able to lightly cuff over it with a very light grit sanding pad and remove the fuzzies so I wasn't painting over them, however in a few places this pulled the paint away which was not the desired outcome at all! Any recommendations on how to minimize this in our future coats? 2. Just in case anyone wants to know...this stuff has a crapload of solids in it. The first gallon was shaken for a good 5 minutes. We were 1/2 way through our second coat when we discovered there was still a significant solid clump at the bottom of the can. We remixed, added some reducer, re-shake it, and then finished out the second coat since I planned on sanding most of this round away anyways. Beyond that, I was worried about the chemistry of the paint being out of whack so we stopped for the day and I considered the remaining paint in that gallon a loss. At north of $250 a gallon maybe a drill mixer next time around instead of shaking, or maybe a combination of both? 3. I am breaking this part of the project into two sessions. The first with two coats sanded smooth and flat, and then the last two coats burnished out. I learned the hard way after painting the barrier coat that it sands out very friendly the next day, but if left a week to cure it will be a mother f-er to sand. What should I expect (in terms of starting grit) with a hard bottom paint with after a couple of days to cure? Thanks in advance for all your input.
  8. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    80 grit will rip off the VC but will probably do little to the barrier coat, just make sure they are using an interface pad and are doing big fairing pattern sanding so that the 80 grit isn't digging in big lows. If you're not racing I recommend Vivid, but that's just because I'm a Pettit fan. Also not that the VC Offshore should be compatible with just about anything, without having to completely remove it. Check Pettit's compatibility chart. VC17 on the other hand is a complete removal for anything other than more VC17.
  9. Jubblies

    Bottom Feeder: What To Buy?

    +1 for the 9.1 SE. The 9.1s are great all around boat for racing with a well established rating and plenty of room for weekend cruising if that's your cup of tea too. The SE has a taller rig than all the other 9.1s and it's well worth it, especially in light air venues. Hell, I would have to think long and hard about paying them 14,000 just for the rig and inventory if I weren't knee deep in restoring/refitting a 9.1 already. If it's as dry as they claim then it's very accurately priced at 14,000. Only two things I don't like about the SE version is the porta potty and the stripped out v-berth. With all that said, I'm waiting for a reasonably dry, and well maintained Farr 30 to hit the market in the mid to low 20s before I make another boat purchase. I figure I'm about 5 or so years away before the prices drop down to this point.
  10. Jubblies

    DIY splicing tools

    +1 for knitting needles modified. I have a few fids I've made for smaller 12 strand from knitting needles.
  11. A little background on our program... Our crew is spread out from as far east as Cleveland, as far west as Detroit, as far south as Columbus, and a bunch in between. As a result of being so spread out, we don't do weeknight club races. We may be one of the last rare breeds that only travels with their boat. This has it's disadvantages, the biggest being time on the boat. Since good chunk of our crew has only been assembled over the last season and a half, I want to start putting together some sort of practice program this year on the weekends we don't have travel events. Still seems strange to be discussing spring training in July, but it is what it is! If you were a weekend warrior PHRF racer and wanted to put together a practice/training program for your crew knowing that you... 1. Won't have full participation from your entire team every Sunday due to scheduling and travel restrictions. 2. More than likely will not have another boat to spar and tune up against What types of activities would you incorporate into these sessions aside from basic boat handling skills and learning all the stupid boat tricks (gybe sets, mexican take downs, etc...)? Sits back and opens a bag of popcorn...
  12. All good suggestions so far. I am not a big fan of "everyone sail a different position". Let's instead get really good at a position so that it's second nature and your head is looking up and not down at the winch. Some things I was considering on top of 100 tacks and 100 gybes were 50 or so... Windward takedowns, Gybe sets, Spinnaker peels, Reach to reach gybes then when we're done with those we can go into... start / stop drills time to burn drills last but not least... how fast can we empty the cooler after practice!
  13. Jubblies

    Beer can racing - When to protest or not

    The rules are rules. If you had to avoid him and you felt it effected your race you should protest. There are only two reasons not to protest... 1. Your current record is 0-10 or greater in the protest room, which is probably an indication you don't know the rules as well as you think you do. 2. You would rather spend time drinking beer after the race than sitting in a protest hearing. I personally suck in the protest room, but I'm still not afraid to unwrap the flag. The odds of it ending up in the protest room are slim. The offending boat either admits they are wrong and backs off, in which case I wrap the flag back up. The offending boat admits they are wrong and does their penalty, in which case I wrap the flag back up. Last but not least we end up at the dock with an unresolved foul. At this point I have a decision to make! I don't subscribe to the "It's just a club race" bullshit. Just like you know you were speeding when the cop pulls you over, most people know they are breaking a rule when they bully their way in on a club race. They continue to do it right up to the time they either hit someone, or get protested. As a side note, I've travelled up to certain clubs up in your area for regattas and am fully aware that certain sailors think there are two sets of rules. One set for club members, and one set for visitors!
  14. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    Read my last post...What are your objectives? I would estimate we are in excess of 150 hours on this project maybe 200. Granted I am single with no kiddies at home so I had plenty of time to do all this over the winter. If you're an OPB racer, I would say have the yard give you a "nice job" and enjoy sailing your boat and others!
  15. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    @Gouvernail I was being as blunt in my response as you were in yours. With that being said, no worries. To answer your point, I clearly made some mistakes that I will more than likely be sanding off as a result. The biggest mistake I made was assuming that shaking the paint for 5+ minutes would have mixed the paint properly followed by not verifying it. We don't have the luxury or budget to have this particular job done by a professional. However there are jobs we have had a professional do, like re-coring and painting our deck, templating the keel and rudder, as well as other jobs over the last couple of years where I was really concerned about the structural integrity of the boat. I'm not afraid to pay a professional, but this boat was in such need for love and I just can't do it for every job! Now that I am in the final phases of this project, would turn back time and save money for an extra season to have it done for me? FOR SURE! Well, too late now! I did do as much research as possible before doing it though. Obviously with this being my first major bottom job mistakes will be made along the way. Just to document for anyone stumbling on this thread in the future, maybe I should list out everything we had to go through. It might make you think twice about doing it yourself! 1. We started by sanding off god knows how many years of VC17 and VC Tar to get the bottom down to bare gelcoat. The lowest I felt going was 80 grit on an interface pad without risking putting major lows in the hull. So this added extra work. This took 3 of us using 6" DAs about 4 days and about 5 hours per day. 2. After cleaning the hull off we then went through with a 22" FlexiSander fairing board and used it to inspect the entire hull for BIG lows. Anywhere we saw daylight coming through we filled with 3M premium and sanded out smooth again. 3. Next we put down one coat of barrier coat with a 3/16 nap roller to use as a guide coat for long boarding. Then we started boarding. The first pass was with the 22" Flexisander and 60 grit in a fairing pattern (big long x patterns) to knock down the all the highs. Stopping if we saw gelcoat poke through. 4. Step 3 makes the lows pretty visible at this point, so we again filled and faired the remaining lows with 3M premium. 5. The next fairing pass we started blocking out in 80 grit on DuraBlocks varying in length depending on the surface we were dealing with. Extra attention was given to the bow to insure that it was as flat as we could get it. 6. Now that the hull was as faired as my arms could stand, we finished off the hull with three more coats of barrier coat. Pettit recommends 2 coats, but I knew we would be removing a lot of product to get it smooth. Each coat the paint parts were shaken, mixed in smaller batches and re-shaken, allowed induction time and then reduced. Typically between 5-8% to get the right flow. Colder days we tended to reduce more to the 8% side. Our method for reducing was the drippy stick method. I was shooting for about 5 seconds until it started dripping. 7. We sanded out the barrier coat to get it smooth. Starting with a quick pass at 80 grit on interface pads, followed by 120, and lastly with 180. Speaking with a Pettit technician, he said 220 and we would still have good adhesion, but I just felt safer at 180. This process did still leave some areas that were a little on the orange peel / eggshell side, but very minor and at this point I would rather be sanding the bottom paint smooth as it's easier to sand than taking off more barrier coat. This leads to the original post... Did I make some mistakes along the way? You betcha. Did I learn a crap tonne about the whole process? You betcha. Will it be as fast or perfect as having a pro do it? NOPE. Will it be more fair and faster than what we started with? YEP
  16. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    Yea, you know what. After that comment let me pick up the phone and send you all my refit business from now on. I would rather spend $5000 making my own mistakes than give a jack ass one penny!
  17. Jubblies

    Black Widow / Hard Bottom Paint Application

    You do understand that 2 coats + 2 coats = 4. Sand and burnish 1 coat off and you are left with 3!
  18. Jubblies

    J24 wet core replacement material

    Regardless of the core you choose, water will be absorbed and delamination will occur not from the core material, but due to improper mounting of hardware. Every screw in the deck should be over drilled, backfilled with thickened epoxy and the re-drilled. Then each hole should be counter sunk so that whatever sealant material you choose compresses into the hole and around the screw and not just spreading around the base of the hardware.
  19. Jubblies

    J24 wet core replacement material

    Balsa, Balsa, Balsa! 1. It's cheaper than the alternative, at least in the United States. 2. It's not really any heavier than the other foam solutions. 3. I feel like this is the most important one...Very few if any foam or plastic alternatives will have the same quality of adhesion as what you get from the resins bonding into the end grain of wood whether it be plywood or balsa. Many foam core boats are notorious for delamination. So...balsa will be your best blend between cost, weight, strength, stiffness, and adhesion.
  20. Jubblies

    Scissors for high tech lines

    The essential parts of my rigging bag includes a D-Splicer needle, a ceramic kitchen knife, a pair of ceramic scissors that I found on Amazon for like $10, good old fashioned blue masking tape, and the old black sharpie. The ceramic knife cuts through high tech line like butter and the one I purchased at Walmart was still sharp as the day I bought it, even after re-rigging my entire boat in dyneema and vectran. I only use the scissors for tapering work.
  21. Your wasting your time... https://www.samsung.com/sg/business/tablets/galaxy-tab-active-2-8-0-t395/sm-t395nzkaxsp/ IP68 water and dust resistance Also it' screen rates at 480 nits, which means you can see it in direct sunlight. @NoFortuna Samsung tablets have a feature that allows for a brightness boost that you can set up on "hot key" with the right apps installed, and you don't mind rooting your device. I have mine set up on to activate on long press of the home button. I also set it up so at the same time it will switch to grey scale. I have no issues what so ever, even at high noon. With that being said, the issue BIG with all "on deck" tablets is over heating. So keep it in a case the can shield it from the heat produced as aa side effect of being in direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
  22. Jubblies

    Backstay Flicker Batten

    I made the big leap to go to a Dyneema backstay and cascade system on our S2 9.1 last year. This boat has a pretty roachy main that gets hung up in light air pretty frequently. Going to the Dyneema and cascade system definitely helped compared to the old rod rigging and pinch adjuster system that's stock for the boat. However it got better at best. I know a few other masthead rig boats around here have added a flicker and it seems to solve the problem as long as you have someone remembering to tack/gybe the backstay. So my question is about the batten itself... 1. How long... 2. How thick... 3. I know that fiberglass battens don't hold up very well to UV, but I am thinking some of this could be solved with a couple coats of Awegrip? My initial thoughts are Bainbridge Epoxy E-Glass Batten 3/4"w x .3"thk x 60"l And go....
  23. Jubblies


    Our plan is to proceed as normal with spring boat prep. We are doing some pretty heavy work this spring all of which involves small groups of people, respirators, gloves, and tyvek suits, so not a lot of worries from our team. From that point we will look and see what will happen with the Mills Race and Cleveland Race week. I suspect if this lingers into May, we will see these cancelled. Be safe and selfless out there everyone!
  24. Jubblies

    The races must go on.

    I'm a 48 year old otherwise very healthy person that just happens to have severe heart disease. I had my first of 7 heart attacks at 36. This puts me smack dab in the middle of the high risk category. So I say to all the selfish dick knobs "FUCK OFF". And to @darth reapius, why don't you come over to my boat this weekend so i can hack and spit on you. I'll remove the respirator I am wearing while grinding lead off my keel just for you. You're so strong and people like me are so weak, I'm sure you'll be just fine. I mean this is really a ridiculous conversation. I really wish the worst for everyone out there thinking they should be able to just do what they want and the hell with the rest. You all have a special place in hell.
  25. Jubblies


    Is the spinnaker red, white, and blue striped with little white stars? If so they should certainly be standing.