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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Richard S

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  1. ancient tasar

    You are right about how the pin is located. The length of the pin is equal to width of the mast, measured to the outside of the section. The hole diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the pin. The pin is located vertically by the holes, not by the screws - the screw heads only stop it moving sideways. If you take out one or both screws the pin will NOT fall down inside the mast. You have to push it sideways, sliding it out through one of the holes in the mast. Remove one of the screws and you will see how it works. To reassemble, it is quite easy to push the diamonds into the top of the mast, through the slots, align them, and then slide the pin through one hole, through the eyes in the diamonds, and through the hole on the other side. Then you put the screws in each end of the pin to stop it sliding to sideways. It isn't much harder to add an insert to support the upper section.
  2. ancient tasar

    As others have pointed out, the diamonds are secured inside the lower mast by a short, hollow, shaft (or pin), which is located in holes in the mast section. You can remove the shaft, and then remove the diamonds. You can replace shaft quite easily, by lining up the eyes at the end of the diamonds inside the mast. No special tools are required. Newer boats have an insert made from a short piece of upper mast section, which is held in place by the shaft that holds the upper end of the diamonds. The bottom of the upper mast section sits on this insert. This solves a problem that resulted when the upper mast was located by the hounds fitting, sitting on the top of the lower mast section. Over time, the hounds fitting would dig into the top of the lower mast. The insert is shown on the Westcoast Sailing website.
  3. Tasars - differences old and new boats

    Correct. You remove the dacron jib and the furler. You will need a forestay, to replace the forestay that is sewn in the luff of the dacron jib. The forestay, shrouds and diamond stays are 3/32" (2.5 mm) diameter 1x19 stainless steel wire. The measurement from the bearing point at the hounds to the deck (directly below the U bolt at the bow) must be 4140 +/- 20mm. The measurement includes the stem head fitting (U bolt) and the shackles at the bow and at the hounds, so the new forestay will be less than 4140mm. Some people put a shroud adjuster at the hounds to make it easier to change the mast rake. A typical length for the forestay is around 4080 mm. You also need a small block fastened to the top of the forestay for the jib halyard, and a clam cleat with a roller, fastened to the mast below the gooseneck, plus a small block with a hook, to tension the halyard with a 3:1 purchase (the hook goes through a loop tied in the halyard).
  4. Tasars - differences old and new boats

    If you can find an old Tasar hull in good condition, you will be fine. Tasars were built by licensed builders in the UK, Canada, the US and Australia. There is now only one builder, in Indonesia. The hull shape has never changed, and the differences in fittings are not significant. If possible, you want a hull that doesn't way much over 150lb (if it is under 149 lb you should add lead ballast under the thwart to bring it up to that weight for class racing). The rig has not changed, except that a stiffener in the top mast was optional until about 1996. Now stiffeners are required (and highly recommended!). The hulls are foam cored, and older boats can suffer from delamination, particularly in the side decks. Also look for cracks in the cockpit sides, six inches below the side decks. If you can find a sound older hull, you can compete with the newest boats out there. The top guy in our fleet sails hull number 582, which was built before 1980, and is still competitive with newer boats. Some Tasars were built in the UK when the boat was first introduced in 1975, and these were very well built (hull numbers below 750). I believe there was another production run in the UK in late 1980s and early 90s. These were also well built, but some of these later UK boats were quite a bit over the minimum weight..