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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Pinching

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  1. de-icer / bubblier 411

    I hung the prop deicer from the transom and a bit of ice formed on the suspension line where it went over the edge of the hull (sleet previous night). It chipped the awl grip. Work out your anti chafe carefully.
  2. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Yeah you are trying to put a lot of hardware into a small space. A similar but slightly more recent welded allow MH is shown below, though not for a Navy 44. As you can see, the shroud connections are distributed a bit more than just at the MH fitting. Good luck with your project. P
  3. Building a spinnaker crane?

    Z: Old boat, so old questions: Wood spar or alloy? Internal halyard or external? Sounds like you want external which seems like a lot of windage and spaghetti and an even larger winch farm. Do you really want 4 forward halyards? Spin peels, bloopers? Check with an old timer at Navy or Coast Guard to see how they rigged and flew the kites on those old warhorses. As to chafe, if your bowman crosses your halyards, you will get chafe. May not be relevant, but If the tails could run inside the spar, then you would have a chafe point where the halyard leaves the mast for the spinnaker crane. The further out the crane, the greater the exit angle and the greater the risk of chafe. If you are trying to avoid chafe with internal tails, you'd need to bring the halyard tail from the crane to a fairlead then through the slot into the mast. You can check the rigging of the fractional boats that have a masthead kite: external block, halyard tail runs external to a spectacle (fairlead) then through slot. Some more modern masthead boats use a triple sheaves forward: center for jib and 2 wings for kite or jib change. Yes, the kite halyards can chafe on the headstay and on the cheeks of the masthead sheave box. Usually not a big deal though. 3 halyards are pretty sufficient for most boats. Reducing the kite to 1 halyard and having the ability to use one of the jib halyards would reduce the windage and slap potential 50% Or ask your rigger & sailmaker.
  4. +1 The cosmetic result will likely be better with repair. The West manual online can give you detailed instructions. This should be an easy winter project since you can take the locker lids home with you. You'll want to replace any bad core, add glass (e.g. biax) over any cracks, and bond additional glass to the underside of the repair to give you added strength. When done, there may be about 1lb of new weight. The alternative could work, but what if your release agent fails and you cannot pop out the original hatch from the female mold? What if the female mold is a little weak and warps. I'd keep it simple. Plus the color will match what's there.
  5. Club racer electronics

    One design is the simplest way to achieve good racing. Nothing gives you better targets than how you are doing with the competition. We race handicap on an old dry-sailed lead-mine and have done so for awhile. We have an antique Ockam system which is calibrated and maintained that gives us lay lines (never used) and target speeds (always used). As noted above, these systems are expendable, but we haven't replaced ours. We still have the detailed VPP done by Peter Schwenn (much better than the US Sailing polars). Our boat doesn't plane or surf and is long obsolete in terms of design. I like the targets because they consistently help us win with similar lead-mines. They make no difference when we are racing in big breeze when express 37s and the like start surfing past us downwind. I like the targets because I'm not a great natural sailor, even after all these years. It's embarrassing to admit that I lack the feel and skill of some of the guys who race with me. I'd say if you are relatively young and want to become a really good sailor, invest your time, not money. Install depth to keep you off the rocks, jib woolies and a windex. Sail a smallish one-design boat as much as your other commitments allow and work from the tail to the middle of the fleet. It will be the best racing you'll ever have. If you are older and don't want to learn new tricks (how to sail fast by feel), the instruments can help if really well calibrated and if the sensors are maintained. It is difficult these days to find a contractor who can spend time with you and get the numbers dialed in. And we are in Annapolis where there used to be a number of excellent service providers. My 0.02 P
  6. Camet Sailing Shorts - any good?

    Good product. I wear a belt with mine to hold the leatherman. The self cinching style doesn't stay in place well for me -- your body will differ.
  7. Venting 26' boat

    your vents would help, but a small dehumidifier would dry the boat between sails and reduce future mildew. Moisture can also come aboard from a wet kite or other gear.
  8. Help me replace this ancient sliding gooseneck

    Might try Dwyer or RigRite. Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company- Manufacturers of Quality Sailboat Masts, Booms, Hardware and Rigging Si….webloc Gooseneck Slides.webloc
  9. It's been a few years since we repowered. We did use a new Teleflex shift innards with the ACTU, don't recall the teleflex model. But it connected to standard push/pull Morse/Teleflex cabling that is generic and should fit your engine.
  10. Sailboat Conversion from Gas to Electric

    Have a 1968 Morgan 25, similar weight (5000 lb), 50 yrs old. No sail drive, just an outboard (newish 4 stroke Yamaha 8). Outboard stays on the stern, no racing. Installed OEM electric start with a 12" square solar panel to recharge the house battery. I use only ethanol free gas and replace the gas once a season ("old" gas goes to the car). It starts with push button every time, essentially unlimited range, pretty quiet, plenty of reserve power. The motor is heavier than a 2 stroke, but uses half the gas, so the weight and weight distribution on the boat are similar (3 gal tank). A repower with modern outboard maybe 3.5k on the outside. I don't see the value in spending the extra 16k personally, but it's your call. P
  11. Thin skinned repair

    I've never worked on shells, so you get what you pay for: In the off chance that the boat is somewhat symmetrical, is there undamaged hull fore or aft that you can make a female mold from? Then remove the damaged area and scarf in the replacement from the outside? Note that ideally, you'd want some reinforcement inside as well because all parts of the long skinny hull are structural in providing longitudinal girder strength and in resisting torsion. P
  12. Sassy may not have an HIN as she was built before the requirement If she was ever documented in the US. there may be an official number and a second number xx Net Tons engraved or routed in a visible structural member. Good luck
  13. Best rope brands available?

    Unless you are doing all your own splicing, check with your rigger on their suggestion and pricing. Three strand splicing is rewarding for me. Double braid can be a mixed bag. I generally have my Annapolis based rigger do my work when he has time and competitive prices. I also use APSLTD and they do nice work and have some great annual sales (like Jan or Feb). Learning to splice some of the modern low stretch lines may or may not be your thing. A few mistakes and your new halyard is too short. we use different brands sometimes simply for color or texture differentiation. Same construction, different look, so the spaghetti in the cockpit makes sense.
  14. Airmar vs Signet speed readings

    Never used airman; as noted above, the signet has been a pretty standard unit for racing. On dry sailed plastic boats, the boundary layer is probably similar port and starboard, so yours is a fair test. However, a woody may have some god given asymmetries which could also reduce the speedo sensitivity at low speeds, (though the boundary layer should be greater at higher speeds)
  15. Ouch. Head gasket is failing - I think

    Having replaced an engine with newer and quieter (nice), only part of the cost is the new engine. Reworking the installation, shaft, prop, shifter, instruments, engine box and exhaust added up to the cost of the engine. Glad it was done, but a rebuild would have been a LOT cheaper. If the previous raw water pump lost any bits before it was replaced, they may still be in the heat exchanger. The injection ell is a great idea.