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  1. Pinching

    In-mast Furling

    Dash: I can't answer your original question as I've mostly raced well-rigged boats between 33 and 41 ft. We daysail our 41 these days. It sounds like you enjoy the shape of a nice main and are keeping the boat to 35 ft or so. On our 35, it wasn't much of an issue to manage the slugged main. It was pretty easy to manhandle. As boat gets bigger sails get heavier and stack height can be problematic (On our 41, I have to climb a couple of mast steps to undo the main halyard). Harken type sliders and track would make it even worse. Our 41 is awesome for fully crewed racing, but is too big to manually singlehand unless fitted like BJ and others above. Our 35 was much easier to singlehand. What's the old rule: costs double with every extra 10 ft and maintenance costs triple?
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    How to stop block from scrathing deck

    Looks like a winner Some (other) good ideas from the thread. Never been a fan of plastic sheeting on deck areas that the crew traverse on tacks. Just old fashioned that way...
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    Identify this throttle control

    One other thing. if you primarily race and don't much care about fussy good looks, and if your old control head is inaccessible, first consider a new control location altogether. It may be easier to abandon the old unit in place and start afresh (replace the control and stop cables as noted above) I doubt if the (disconnected) old control head will affect resale of a J35. Also, the throttle head removal process may involve fussing with the wiring from engine to instrument panel. A 37 yo instrument panel is probably best left alone. Good luck.
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    Identify this throttle control

    It's late 80s vintage Morse/Teleflex. Had same unit for 21 yrs. Played with oil and trying to disassemble. Detailed removal instructions follow and you won't like them: You remove the control head with a sawzall and/or angle grinder attacking from the backside. Yup. It's a fantasy that you can dismantle a 30 year old multimetal corrosion block. Plan to do some f/g cosmetic repair afterward. Right pain in the arse. We replaced ours with Spinlock cockpit part because we liked the removable handle that was not available from Teleflex. Though (really) pricey, the spin lock faceplate is inherently corrosion resistant. The steel bits behind the cover are replacement teleflex which connect to the engine control cables. Your cables are also antique and probably should have been renewed a decade ago. I think we bought an entire control head (with non-removable cockpit handle) and immediately pitched the handle and plate to install the spin lock. The spin lock has been flawless for for 10 years so far. Reliable engine control is one of those nice to have items and the old bits you have are long long past their sell-by dates. P.
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    What Size Prop?

    A folder requires more RPM to spin out in reverse for any particular speed. Don't be shy -- rev that puppy up and it should perform OK. If your folder is a martec, for short money, they will service the prop and it will like new. Good people. The Schock 35 is a good boat and you probably have the original drivetrain and prop. There's a good chance the boat will become a dog with a fixed blade. FWIW, I'd live with the existing folder for next season. Spin it up and see how she works in reverse. We've had a martec on a similar boat and it's been fine (less powerful in reverse, but usable). It's dirt simple and is not a bad shipmate if you know its limitations.
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    Black Lifeline Stanchions

    Man that topic went downhill fast
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    Pretty floor options?

    Coosa sealed and with glass reinforcement as needed; treat upper surface as you would your deck: Kiwigrip or hydroturf. Done. I've never done it (have used T/H ply), so no practical advice. P
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    Pretty floor options?

    To the OP: Sanded 1/4" polycarbonate (lexan) could be used to make long and narrow bilge coverboard. Glue 1/4" spacers under to bring flush to existing flooring. A different look but flexible and should be reasonably long lasting with low maintenance. Over the keel so weight should not be an issue. DrewR has a different issue in replacing the entire ply flooring. Nothing to add to the above for that. P
  9. may be retroreflective tape...
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    Laser puncture wound

    Assume you've checked Gouv's website (schroth FG). If the boat is reasonably close to class weight and the deck taps OK otherwise, your plan sounds fine. I'd work a bit more layup fore and aft (abeam of) of the mast step with a really good beveled bonding surface to the old work. If the rest of the boat is heavy and funky, it might be time for a better hull.
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    New steering cables? Wire or fiber?

    If it’s a simple matter to replace failed line with wire, have a go. For my steering install, it’s quite a nuisance to remove the cable in the binnacle. As noted above, Wire has disadvantages but won’t chafe through in most cases. Steering seems like a fairly handy system to have working properly. Steering cables are stressed 24/7 to some extent even at dock or anchor p
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    Westerbeke 4107 won't start

    In addition to the rubber supply lines, there is probably a fuel shutoff valve at the tank. Those valves can develop an air leak as the o-ring wears. If it's a standard low cost brass valve, it's a replacement item every 5-7 years.
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    NASS race Annapolis to Oxford 9/8

    Navy is often a little late to register their boats. It's no big deal.
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    Westerbeke 4107 won't start

    As you say hand hickey not as cool as ring on shoe I’ll admit engine will spin more easily dont try if you don’t want to worked a treat on dozens of 4107s in the late 70s esp with dodgy batteries or slightly aged compression. ymmv
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    Westerbeke 4107 won't start

    Here’s a hack from the 70s remove the dome cap over the inlet flame heater cover the inlet with hand or shoe and crank the engine for 15-30 sec seacock closed release hand, engine may start quite happily we never had the preheater work worth a damn p