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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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  1. I've never worked on shells, so you get what you pay for: In the off chance that the boat is somewhat symmetrical, is there undamaged hull fore or aft that you can make a female mold from? Then remove the damaged area and scarf in the replacement from the outside? Note that ideally, you'd want some reinforcement inside as well because all parts of the long skinny hull are structural in providing longitudinal girder strength and in resisting torsion. P
  2. Sassy may not have an HIN as she was built before the requirement If she was ever documented in the US. there may be an official number and a second number xx Net Tons engraved or routed in a visible structural member. Good luck
  3. Unless you are doing all your own splicing, check with your rigger on their suggestion and pricing. Three strand splicing is rewarding for me. Double braid can be a mixed bag. I generally have my Annapolis based rigger do my work when he has time and competitive prices. I also use APSLTD and they do nice work and have some great annual sales (like Jan or Feb). Learning to splice some of the modern low stretch lines may or may not be your thing. A few mistakes and your new halyard is too short. we use different brands sometimes simply for color or texture differentiation. Same construction, different look, so the spaghetti in the cockpit makes sense.
  4. Never used airman; as noted above, the signet has been a pretty standard unit for racing. On dry sailed plastic boats, the boundary layer is probably similar port and starboard, so yours is a fair test. However, a woody may have some god given asymmetries which could also reduce the speedo sensitivity at low speeds, (though the boundary layer should be greater at higher speeds)
  5. Having replaced an engine with newer and quieter (nice), only part of the cost is the new engine. Reworking the installation, shaft, prop, shifter, instruments, engine box and exhaust added up to the cost of the engine. Glad it was done, but a rebuild would have been a LOT cheaper. If the previous raw water pump lost any bits before it was replaced, they may still be in the heat exchanger. The injection ell is a great idea.
  6. I've tried those dryer softener sheets for small spaces (mailboxes, marina power pedestals with the lifting covers over the plugs and breakers). Seemed to work, not sure it would do much under a sail cover. Definitely does not work inside the mast where they access through halyard slots. Grr.
  7. On my boat, the reef hooks straightened out and were generally useless. I have a tylaska shackle lashed at the gooseneck that can clip into the reef ring on the sail. 41 foot boat.
  8. I have 2 systems on an old (1968) heavy 25 ft boat with an electric start 8 hp outboard: I mostly rely on a 1 foot square regulated solar panel that sits on the port quarter out of harms way. It does a great job of keeping the boat battery fully but not overcharged and requires no maintenance. When I mothball the boat, I put an electric dehumidifier aboard. The solar panel maintains the battery, the dehumidifier plugs into a 110 volt shore power cable led through the hatch. The nice thing about the solar charger is that there's one less thing to mess with when I go sailing. It just works. P
  9. FWIW, we've done Block from Naptown a few times. Bigger boat, so we sailed/powered her up on her own bottom. My crew and I view Block as a reward for a good year. We don't go unless we can get a volunteer delivery crew both ways and a delivery skipper from the crew. Our record delivery time was 40 hours more or less. Before even agreeing to go, one of the crew members volunteers to do crew housing logistics (12 person crew). As owner, I get housing for wife and me, pay marina bills, and all boat related expenses. Crew splits their own housing and rides up and back. I also pay for rental of delivery safety equipment (life raft and sat phone). I also give the delivery skipper a few bucks for incidentals & food). The crew rotates cooking duties among them and I pay for one team meal that week for everybody at a restaurant You may be too late to get a ferry spot this year. That is critical. There are 2 different sailing adventures: A delivery phase with full safety gear, harnesses, anchors, drogue, storm sails, 40gal of additional fuel (diesel in my case) in jerry cans on deck etc. and you must have a flexible weather window on both ends. The racing sails (including lots of kites) are compressed and stowed below. It takes time to prep the boat for delivery. Then all that delivery crap is taken off on arrival at Block and the boat rinsed, dehumidified, water tanks dumped, stove removed, and she's converted back into a race boat. I recommend you get a folding dock cart as carts can be scarce. All the spare race sails and delivery stuff is transported to the owner house. You will regret not having wheels available for moving your stuff -- hence a good ferry slot is critical. The racing is terrific and the R/C is excellent. In summary, it will take a lot of owner time for coordination and boat prep, but if the crew is unwilling or unable to share the costs and delivery burden, I'd pass. That said, there really is nothing in Naptown that compares with BIRW imho. (We'd done the same arrangement for Charleston a few times. For the 1 time we did KWRW, we took the boat apart and trucked it-- that was quite pricey) P
  10. There were a lot of decent compasses made by Danforth (later rule). Call a compass shop. If it needs fluid, it will also need degassing afterwards.
  11. An off topic reply, sorry: Is boat covered on the trailer on the road? All your hardware can be exposed to road/marina grit. Try washing traveler before you go sailing.
  12. Not much to add. Before you fuss with the old compass, figure out where you want your compass. Some J35s have them mounted in the deck P&S for the helmsman. Offers the advantage of something to step on, two compasses to swing instead of 1, and twice the price. Have you considered a tactical compass (eg carbon parts laser compass) mounted on the sea hood over the companionway hatch? Night lighting might be tricky, but it could earn its keep on the race course, and it also has a 0-360 scale
  13. Liquid wrench or penetrating oil on the screws and patience, maybe an impact driver with exactly the right size bit. If the fasteners are that frozen, it may have been some time since the pedestal was serviced. The brake working poorly could also be simply grease on the pad. Put a sheet or equal under the pedestal to catch the small parts that you will inevitably drop down the column Replace any fasteners you remove with new. Be prepared for worst case, which isn't too bad since Edson is still around, which is replacing some parts up to/including the pedestal itself. I think the pedestal mounted engine controls are really neat, but also discourage/prevent good maintenance. On my boat I moved the controls from the pedestal back to the cockpit wall (single lever control with Spinlock faceplate) I like Edson -- good folks. However nobody makes equipment that can be ignored forever. Good luck P
  14. Pardon my ignorance, but how does a mechanical t-ball differ from a swaged t-ball fitting? Norseman end? Swage t-balls (and t-balls for rope splices) appear to remain widely available.
  15. As noted above, lots of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench), remove the old fasteners, remove the end fitting, dismantle & inspect. You might get lucky and find that the trip catch (small flat stainless plate that hold the pin open) is corroded reducing its freedom of movement. I wouldn't spend much on the old pole. If it remains troublesome and if the intent is a bit of racing, use the old inboard end fitting (assuming a dip pole) and get a carbon pole and modern outboard end. Half the weight, much easier on everybody if a big boat.