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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About atoyot

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  1. HDTV Antenna Anarachy

    No. They closed shop, and the storefronts that remain open have transformed into Sprint cell phone stores. I worked for them for 6 years F/T (1 year as a manager) and another 22 part-time. They were never, between 1985 - 2013, what they were a decade before but at least they had some convenient stuff. I felt as if the writing was on walls once they put cell phones and extended warranties above all else, at the expense of product diversity. Sure - residuals and free money helped someone, but not the long term base that kept the institution solvent (in my opinion).
  2. HDTV Antenna Anarachy

    You'll appreciate this: While living just west of Roxborough by a couple of miles, I could see the antenna farm out the window year 'round. We used a paper clip in the back of our one TV and in subsequent sets that appeared over time. As a side note - when Comcast was born, the system in LM Twp couldn't utilize RF channels 3, 6, 10, or 12 due to intermod. The local air channels had to be placed elsewhere.
  3. AM Antena Anarchry

    These do pretty well, even inside aluminum siding (to a degree).
  4. HDTV Antenna Anarachy

    No disagreement at all; it's always been this way due to physics. The household location, the terrain, aerial height, and multiple source directions are nothing new, just not as common knowledge as it was when we were buzzing the neighborhood on our stingray bikes. People being so used to cable (or satellite), the functionality and logistics of over-air TV has faded for many as an entire generation out there, at least in close-to-urban markets, has never dealt with broadcast TV to any meaningful degree since first teething on Mom's remote control! Time to go polish my walker and eat my prunes....
  5. HDTV Antenna Anarachy

    "Antennae", but only for a graded exercise Modern "HDTV" antennas are, as often as not, electronic snake oil. I'm sure they work, though the prices are stupid. An antenna picks up a range of transmitted frequency, not specific modulation types. It matters not at all whether a signal transmitted on, say, 530mHz is NTSC, PAL, AM, FM, SSB, PACTOR, C-QAM, or MorseCode. The point is that any reputable old-school antenna that covers the channel frequency of what you're trying to get, will work if within unobstructed range. The preponderance of HD channels are in the UHF TV band, even though their logos and colloquial reference may hold on to an earlier "channel" reference. Some are still on VHF, so it's worth researching your market. These amplified, fancy-looking things out today are amplified in part because they're designed for easy install in potentially marginal places. Any good UHF corner-reflector/yagi or VHF/UHF combo on top of the house (or attic, if not too far out or shadowed by land mass, buildings, etc) will give equal and better signal-to-dollar ratio. I remember when TV started using stereo audio, and some TV antennas were "rated" as stereo-capable! No shit. No difference, too. The TV in my office (for weather, earthquake, zombe apocalypse, etc) uses a bow-tie antenna taped to the window pane. 5 channels + the sub-channels. An amp can be added later if desired, though again, the trendy HDTV-market antennae have amps because they need them....
  6. Cable modem/router question

    Nun would be more grateful than me. Then again - she might become habit-forming.
  7. Cable modem/router question

    Seconded. I'll wager I could talk the OP through the setup over the phone. Just as a home router is "capable" of a mess of shit that most consumers care nothing about, these Ubiquity bridges have about half a dozen things to set, and you're on line. IP address, pick one as an AP & one as a Station, give them an SSID & password, set to Transparent (or WDS), point toward each other. The rest is something for geeks to fart with. There's no better way to learn a discipline than to dive into it, with guidance, and pick up on some of the action.
  8. Cable modem/router question

    Thanks, Sheldon. It was kind of you to clarify terms over which nobody signaled confusion to begin with. The lesson probably seemed a bit elementary, to a qualified engineer of your caliper. See: Mansplaining.
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  10. More Teachers Behaving Badly

    ^ This. No bragging for the beast conquests....
  11. Cable modem/router question

    Ski cougars, Ice Skate cougars, yoga cougars..... We're not picky.
  12. Cable modem/router question

    OK, now I'm on a real computer rather than on a dumbphone, trying to fat-finger detailed information. So, let's try: In the cable TV business, there are splitters. They've got powdered-iron doughnuts with coils of wire around them inside, that sort of thing, and they send your channels all different ways. They also cut the strength, but nothing's free. You have one that's powered. Is it "bi-directional"? That's required, if you have your cable modem on one of the split outputs; internet data signal has to go both ways, after all. Now, you Could put a second cable modem in the shop, with the following restrictions: you'd split the cable from the street, into two paths (see "splitter" above). One goes to your house and one goes to the shop. You'd get an additional internet bill, same as for a duplex residence where one cable goes into both homes or apartments. The other restriction is that, should you want to trade files or pictures or do backups, stream video from the house, etc, you would have a much harder time at it. (OK, those of you who know all of this stuff - I know what can be done with port forwarding, VNC, FTP... that's well beyond the scope of this help.) Therefore, we can concentrate on straight networking. First, some terms to know: LAN - Local Area Network. Essentially, everything computer-wise, TV-wise, WiFi-wise, on your household's side of the cable modem. WAN - Wide Area Network. The system that brings the internet to you; all of that stuff on phone poles, in the ground, the massive infrastructure that lets us chat like this. Hub - This is your "splitter" in the context of network lines in a business, home, school, etc. The hub takes requests and forwards them to the router, which speaks with the cable modem. And so on. Information returning from the web are passed through that other stuff back to the hub, which sends it to the output lines connected to it. Your computer hears it, while the other devices couldn't give a shit until a data package with their name on it comes along. Switch - Pretty similar to a hub except that it sends info to and fro, only between the parties for which it's intended. Not quite as much a "party line" as much as a locomotive turntable, in concept. Access Point (AP) - a two-way radio that entertains connections from your play toys and work machines, without needing a run of network line between each or any of them, and the stuff that delivers internet into the home, etc. Also known as a Hot Spot, though some might posit that a hot spot refers to an AP open to all as opposed to a passworded system. Ethernet - describes a particular type of flexible cable that has 8 conductors inside. Moreover, the industry refers to this as 4-pair (because, you know, twice 4 = 8). In order to reduce or eliminate electromagnetic interference, each of the 4 pairs of marked wires are twisted together as pairs, then, the whole mess is twisted together as a whole. One twist essentially nullifies noise picked up by the opposite twist just up or down stream. Yawn. Suffice it to know that, for all practical purposes in a home LAN, Ethernet and the abbreviations Cat5, Cat5e, & Cat6 may be considered interchangeable for these discussions. RJ-45 - The type of plastic connector that facilitates joining Ethernet cable to a device that needs it to communicate. They look a whole like a fat, wide, telephone line male wall plug. DHCP - Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol. Fancy talk for handing out name badges, or, phone numbers. Your cable modem has an identifying number similar to, say, which is assigned by the cable company. This is called an IP address (for Internet Protocol). Such addresses are necessary for every internet site in the world, for the same reason your phone has its own unique number. Only one DHCP "server" can exist on your network, lest your hardware not know with which device to exchange information both in or out. Client Device - Anything that you're going to hook up to your LAN. For these purposes, I will chiefly use the term as it pertains to WiFi-connected devices. You can, in fact, buy a "client device" as a WiFi receiver, then, hook that into a computer or instrument that only has a Cat-5 connection available. A client device makes a non-Wifi thing into a WiFi-enabled thing. Router - Combines the function of a network hub and the function of an access point but with additional intelligence. For starters, it takes information from your cable modem and sort of changes it's address so that stuff on your side of it is somewhat protected. Referred to as Network Address Translation, everyone in the world will see your house IP address as shown above but they can't see you, specifically; your product box probably boasted about a NAT Firewall. You can see out but they can't see in (without you permitting it). Within your LAN, it may look like or some other scheme - but not like the address the cable company assigned you. The DHCP server in your router will give each of your toys their own specific number address within YOUR private system (LAN). WiFi - "Wireless Fidelity" as it was originally called; the wireless, range extending ability by which an access point works. There are evolving standards, whereupon the newer stuff is generally compatible with the older stuff, at the older stuff's range and/or speed limitations. Network Bridge - A wireless way to get your LAN to serve a place where running Ethernet is a pain in the ass. Strictly speaking, it describes the receive end in the sense that a Client Device, connected to your router, constitutes a "bridge"; In our context, the network bridge will consist of two separate and dedicated wireless appliances that work together, to bridge that gap (due to it being a pain in the ass to run 4-pair wire...). OK, so, that's the meat and potatoes of it. If you choose to use adapters to get your CAT5-laden signals across the yard, all you need to do is to run a Cat5 line from the place where your RG-11 meets up with that on the house end, over to your existing 4-port router that you've mentioned having at the house already. On the shop side and once RJ-11 signals are converted back to Cat5 wire, you will need another switch or hub to plug in any wired components in that building - if there is to be more than one gizmo out there. If you want WiFi alone out there, you need only find an access point that you can serve electricity and the Cat5 wire you just extended there by whatever means. If you want a place to plug in Cat5 lines out in the shed and also have Wifi, you can either look for an access point that allows this - or, you can take a full-on router (or an older one not used any longer) and set it up do do this. The main thing is that you disable DHCP in the soon-to-be 4-port Wifi distribution point. Plug your Cat5 line (from the cable adapted from prior Cat5 at the house) into one of the four LAN ports, NOT into the WAN port that in an earlier life used to take signal from the cable modem. Yeah, you'll actually only have three plug-ins, but if you're running stuff out there that requires wired hook-up, you can add a switch to one of the 3 remaining holes and get back 4, or 8, or 32, or any number of ports depending upon how much you want to spend. Choose something clearly marketed as a Switch, all else being roughly equal. The other plan for spanning the 200 ft to your shop will still require a Cat-5 line from your home router to a place with an unobstructed path ("line of sight") from that point to a convenient mount point at the shop end. You will still need your choice of an AP or a re-purposed router (new or used). The chief difference is that you'll put the money that you were going to throw at coax-to-RJ45 plugs, into some good grade network bridge radios, such as I've mentioned in earlier posts. If you like, I can scare up a block diagram that demonstrates the wired vs. bridged paradigms. Now go have a beer.
  13. Cable modem/router question

    Additionally - on line or offline, I could take your list of what you have, and try to give more specific advice in every-day, plain language.
  14. Cable modem/router question

    B, if your cable modem has only one RJ45 Cat-5 comnection, you'll want a wifi-type router in the home, anyway. That can be anyplace you like - provided it gets fed by the cable modem's Cat5 output direct just as if they were next to each other. If your cable modem has wifi in it already, it very likely has four Cat5 outputs as it is. If so, you can do what you like with 3 of them; one output will need to go to the side of the house facing the shop. I havent any experience with thar pair of 5ghz panels from inside an attic - though, if the shop end is outside with a strict line of sight to the region of the other one, it will probably do your 200ft. What I know, is that a pair of Ubiquity Airgrid appliances (now on eBay, used, for $20 each) on homemade reflectors about a foot square, will go through my townhouse one end to the other, and out 30 yardsto a shed. The other end is inside the 2 layers of particle board of the shed wall, to boot. Running leas than 1/3 power. One gets fed by Cat5 from my router/4-port hub; the other end serves an older router that's configured as an access point (with DD-WRT software to boot). I would think Ubiquity's flat or round wall mount units would do fine with one in the attic; the ones I have are for 15-20 mile long-haul bridging. They'd be overkill for you, but, for the price and a little fidgeting, there would be no question. Run them in a mesh mode, & you could add access points at neighbors, other parts of the property, etc.
  15. Cable modem/router question

    Lots of good advice here. One should keep in mind, while shopping, that actual data throughput with a wifi link (AP to client, etc) is about half of the cited speed. While electrons trade places in both directions at once - duplex - on Cat-5/5e/6, the radio link we call wifi will send, receive, send, receive, etc - half-duplex. Still, an 802.11N connection at "300"mhz is 1.5 times faster than most people need, when wireless; a subjective opinion, naturally. The local network in and about your home will benefit from awesome speeds if you routinely back up stuff from one drive to another, have a complete mess of security cameras, whatever. Likewise, whatever's in the shop will speak to each other as fast as the hub/AP you put there. Unless you need better home-to-shop speed than many cable internet feeds, [url="https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZDC64I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510916684&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=5ghz+bridge&dpPl=1&dpID=31wwxXnEBuL&ref=plSrch" ]these 5ghz bridges [/url] did a really good job for a side-job client, and they're weatherproof & fed power over your Cat5/etc line. If you want real quality, some new or used Ubiquity commercial WiFi bridges do wonders. These will operate in a 'transparent' mode which lowers the time-delaying overhead that straight access point type links can have. You'll still need an access point or plain router (set up as an AP) for indoors. Range can be many miles, with nothing in the way.