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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Moonduster

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About Moonduster

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  1. Teak deck..how difficult to strip off

    15000 miles in 20 years? That's an average of 15 miles per week, and would have no discernible effect. if anything, those miles would help by depositing salt in the grain and protecting it from air pollution grit. Removing teak is easy. Removing the epoxy with which it was glued down or filling the screw holes is the hard part.
  2. Adhesive removal

    Adhesive solvents are for people who have never seen 3M Stripe Off Wheels ...
  3. This all looks like desperate marketing. Who cares about paddlewheel performance at 30+? No one.
  4. Santana 20 keel reinforcement

    You're addressing the visible, definite symptom, not the invisible, potential problem.
  5. Bronze Nuts?

    Slug, Do you think before you type? How is it that bronze nuts waste time? Money, perhaps, but time? Really? The drivel you write defies belief. Vincent, You can find bronze nuts in lots of places, including here.
  6. Airmar ST610 speed/temp transducer

    Why on earth wouldn't you simply write an e-mail to Airmar? They have really good customer support and publish their phone number and e-mail address on their web site, here.
  7. Furler: Harkin MK IV vs Fancor STG 3T

    If you're considering cruising, be aware that a low drum or furler can interfere with your anchor setup.
  8. Foiling the Caribbean 600

    Fujin inverted more than their battens ... everyone's ok ... Ramber 88 is ahead of overall monohull record pace set by Rambler 100
  9. Foiling the Caribbean 600

    No one ever said they didn't work. They said they were unlikely to overcome the associated IRC rating hit. That rating hit has been changed significantly.
  10. Raymarine VHF MMSI reset - how many times

    The concept behind limiting the number of MMSI changes is to prevent nefarious people from sending fake distress signals that mimic various real vessels. It's well intentioned, perhaps, but creates a night mare for installers and owners, alike. I believe the limit is 3x MMSI programmings and then the radio must be returned to an authorized service center.
  11. Nav & Performance Data w/o Through Hull Transducers

    AC50s used GPS SOG for speed as paddle wheels aren't much good when the hull is 1m above the surface of the water. I cannot recall whether they were allowed to use ground-truth augmentation. OD classes use the instrumentation allowed by class rules. Where those rules allow full instrumentation, boats have thru-hull transducers for speed.
  12. PSS Dripless Shaft Seals: Pros/Cons/Experiences?

    The Manecraft is a better product, although difficult to souce in some locations. There are other threads on this topic.
  13. choice of autopilot drive

    River, the key question in all this is what's your required steering force. If you can balance your boat, then your steering forces are low and a linear drive will work nicely. If you can't balance your boat, then no pilot will work well, but an electro/hydraulic drive will have more power and mask the symptoms. If you mount any electric motor in a wet place, it will fail. The motor doesn't know or care whether it's driving a hydraulic pump or an archimedes screw, it only cares about being dry. Repairs at sea of either an electric/hydraulic or linear drive are limited to the spares and tools you carry and your own abilities. I would suggest that repairing either is usually not possible and that instead a spare drive is the right approach. A spare linear drive is relative small, light and inexpensive. A spare electric/hydraulic drive is bulky, heavy and costly. I sailed a 20 ton 47' 20000+ miles solo with a single linear drive with no failures. I see absolutely no advantage to an electric/hydraulic solution unless: You're unable or unwilling to balance your helm Your boat's displacement is massive You have hydraulic steering You're keen to add weight, cost and noise
  14. Interpersonal Wireless Comms Aboard

    The Invisio products are outstanding and the support isn't bad.
  15. Smart phone signal generator

    But it's not a signal generator, it's a spectrum analyzer.