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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Moonduster

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  1. Neither the greater Seattle no San Francisco areas need more capacity. What they need is for slip leases to require boat usage.
  2. This symptom is almost always a bent Morse cable at one end or the other. It often happens when the screw holding the clamp that secures the cable sheath loosens and falls out. You figure it out by disconnecting the morse cable from the transmission and verifying the shifting is easy at the transmission by hand. Then start to study your cable, which is tricky up inside the pedestal. Most often, the right approach if the transmission shifts easily at the lever is to simply replace the morse cable and not bother to ask why.
  3. What's the Latest on Firefly Oasis Batteries?

    Couple things of which to be aware: Voltage is a lousy proxy for state of charge Yes, you will get 30AH more out of a 100AH battery that can be discharged to 80% DoD vs one that can only be discharged to 50% DoD. That 30AH represents a 60% increase in useable capacity. Turning on your engine at 12.0V with conventional Lead Acid batteries is pretty conservative. 10.5V is the generally prescribed limit, but again, voltage is a lousy proxy for state of charge The right way to understand State of Charge is to use a State of Charge meter, usually referred to as an Amp-Hour meter, which needs to be properly installed and calibrated. Getting to 100% SOC To get maximum energy from a battery cycle, first you need to get it to 100% SOC. Getting any battery bank to 100% SOC depends a lot on both the charger and the battery technology. Almost all chargers, including alternator regulators, use some proxy for detecting full charge. There are two primary methods: Some chargers have a fixed or adjustable Absorption Timer and decide that once the transition from Bulk to Absorption has been made, that the battery becomes fully charged after this amount of time, the Absorption Phase has ended and the charger transitions to float. Some chargers use charge current and decide that once the Absorption Current has fallen below this threshold that the battery is fully charged, the Absorption Phase has ended and the charger transitions to float. I believe the Absorption Current Threshold is a better approach, but with either approach what's clear is that attaining 100 SOC is elusive. Measuring DoD Once you're charged, you use your AH meter to monitor energy leaving the battery. Properly calibrated with capacity, charge efficiency and Peukert's exponent for your batteries, an AH meter will tell you exactly what's going on. You need to stop discharging and recharge once you hit the DoD limit based on your technology. Lead Acid in most forms doesn't recover well from DoD below 50%. Other technologies go well beyond. Firefly If the distributor selling the batteries tells you that you can get 80% DoD, it's not unreasonable to believe them. And there are plenty of 3rd party reports about, too. Certainly with LFP batteries, DoD affects the life of the battery as measured by cycles - discharging to 90% might yield 1000 cycle life but discharging to 80% might yield 2000 cycle life. You're unlikely to get that kind of information from a most end-users ...
  4. Svendsen's Boatworks To Close 11/1/17

    Are you out of your mind? The last thing the Bay Area needs is housing. The population density already exceeds infrastructure capacity by at least 2:1. What the Bay Area needs is for Proposition 13 to be canned and for real estate taxes to double or triple so that growth slows and the infrastructure funding can catch up to the demands.
  5. Masthead VHF antenna and cable

    Simulations are nice and all, but I'd suggest you debate the ISAF recommendations with Stan Honey. Bottom line, I know of no one who disagrees that there's no proxy for height. No one but you, that is. Your simulation inputs look suspect to me. Who cares what the receiver can do, you can't control that at all. All you care about is height of antenna and delivered power at that height. Why do you only have 0.5w? That's handheld output power. And the mast head result is 6% better even then. How on earth can you advocate for a water-level solution? It's DUMB.
  6. Masthead VHF antenna and cable

    Snub, RG213 has an attenuation factor of 5.967/100' vs 6.887 for LMR240. The killer is that the RG213 weighs 11 pounds per 100' vs. LMR-LW240 at 2.6. You could have met the ISAF requirements with RG58, which is the same weight as the LMR-LW240 and has attenuation of 13db/100'. Generally, your cable delivers an excellent signal, but is on the heavy side. That might be a reasonable choice for an older yawl. Allen, The solution to dismasting worries, as outlined by ISAF, is to carry a spare antenna and cable. There's no substitute for altitude with VHF, it's just dumb to use a transom mounted antenna of any construction.
  7. Masthead VHF antenna and cable

    ISAF rules require that antenna cable loss be held to less than 50%. This requires large, expensive, heavy cable. Therefore, minimizing cable length is critical. There's no way a 50' boat should have a 100' cable. Serious installations keep cable length to about 2m more than the length of the mast and do this by locating the VHF and AIS and Splitter close to the base of the mast, usually by using a VHF that has a remote control head and speaker option. For mast head antenna, the best choice is the Ultra Whip. You can find information here. That same brochure has a page dedicated to VHF cable choices based on length. However, if you're at all interested in minimizing weight aloft, then you'll stick to LMR-LW (light weight) options of which there are two: LMR-LW240 is good for 72' max and weighs 2.6 pounds per 100' (39g/m) LMRLW-400 is good for 140' max and weighs 5.0 pounds per 100' (75g/m) You should purchase your VHF antenna cable pre made with the correct connectors and assembled with heat shrink. This is the best site for configuring and ordering a pre-made cable.
  8. Tanker hits Destoyer, how is this possible?

    I love this thread, it shows that hypocrisy knows no limits. The first several 100 posts were about getting back to the navy of old, unwinding attention to good working conditions and maintaining an equitable environment - to hell with being nice, focus on the fucking job at hand. Now the winds have shifted and suddenly it's all about how miserable working conditions and hostile work place should have us all choked up. When you fuckers make up your minds, let us know. Until then, turn on the AIS transmitter and keep the telegraph between stop and dead slow.
  9. Nexus Classic Instrument problems/fixes

    The ID of the part that's part of the boat or the OD of the part that can be removed.
  10. "but pimping - and laundering money for pimps - is an entirely different ballgame" This from the same idiot who writes articles subtitled "Big pimpin'". You just don't get it at all ...
  11. Club racer electronics

    It sounds as if the racing you do is fairly straight forward club level series, once per week sort of stuff. Given that, your plan seems ok, but I'd simplify it a lot. I'm with J, that a windex and time on the water are the things on which you should focus first. Lionness has clearly lost the plot and there's nothing in his rant that makes any sense unless you've infinite budget and an obsession with numbers to the exclusion of results. WHK's comment that any display will do with sensors connected via NMEA2000 is pretty misguided; the hodgepodge approach just doesn't work. And so is his comment that electronics should be viewed as expendable. There are no shortage of 20+ year old instrument systems still working well from any number of manufacturers. Invest in sensors and buy an integration solution that can grow with you and you should be pretty happy with your results. If your plan is to start modestly and evolve your instrumentation as your sailing evolves, then the H5000 is perhaps a reasonable investment, but it is expensive. You can get great results with less expensive kit, but the H5000 is the only starting point that can get you to high-end instrumentation over time. Your initial focus should be on paddle wheel (Signet), AWA & AWS (B&G) and compass; those are your four key sensors. I recommend an instrument system in which connections of paddle wheel and mast head AWA & AWS are done directly at the processor. Compass can be bus connected but its data rate needs to be 3x the display update rate or more. Depth is nice to have, but depending on your location may be unnecessary. GPS integration is simple via NMEA2000, don't obsess about update rates here. I'd forego mast-mounted instruments as they're expensive and unnecessary at the club level. It's more important for you and your crew to be looking around than staring at numbers. Two H5000 displays above the companionway should be plenty to get you started. Add the mast displays when you're starting to sail offshore at night. Whether existing mast displays can be made to work depends on the details of those displays and the system you're purchasing. Especially if they're older B&G Fastnet displays, results can be unfortunate. The chart plotter has close to no value except possibly for cruising - you can do navigation on a PC with professional software and have a far more capable system that can also grow with you.
  12. Teak Deck Replacement

    Couple of things: If the deck was glued down without fasteners, which is fairly common with top boats today but relatively rare 30 years ago, then water penetration through the seams isn't a big deal. First, if the teak is fastened to the deck with screws, as is often the case, then water penetration through the deck seams likely means the water will penetrate the fastenings and wind up in the deck. If the deck is solid glass, that's not a big deal. However, if its ply or balsa core, it will compromise the entire structure of the deck and, in turn, the boat. Its these fastenings that are much different than a glass deck with some thru-bolted hardware. If water is getting between the teak and the deck, it can easily be getting into the core in 100s of deck fasteners rather than just a few thru bolts. Depending on the state of the deck and the quality of the teak, once the decking loses its stability, it becomes a real liability as bit break off or begin to splinter. At some point, it's worse than looking horrible, it's dangerous as you walk about on deck, especially in bare feet. Regarding aesthetics, you need to make your own decisions here, but just as you are what you eat, you are what you sail. On the maintenance side of things, there are a few things to keep in mind. Provided it's not been allowed to deteriorate past the point of no return, deck maintenance can be done piecemeal as you suggest. Track and other thru-bolted items can be removed, the deck repaired and those things re bedded. Freshly caulked and sanded areas will stand out for a while, but weather and blend in with time. Once or twice in the life of the deck, it may make sense to unbolt all the hardware, reef out all the caulk, reseam and sand the entire deck. You don't mention the size of the boat, but this is a big undertaking in terms of both time and money. Finally, with time, the teak will wear to the point where there's insufficient material left to fasten. It's difficult to keep fastened decking stable once it's less than 1/4" thick and glued decking is difficult to manage once it's less than 3/16. At that point, all the decking needs to be removed and you've to make the choice between replacing or going to non-skid.
  13. Stupidly large battery bank trickle charging

    But that's almost always what's seen in large banks ... a hodgepodge of sizes and sometimes chemistry ... especially in power boats.
  14. Adhesive Recommendations

    What's the yield strength you need and what's the load path, shear or tension?
  15. Alternatives to Expedition for B&G Comms

    Deckman is a dead product. There are dozens of PC-based plotting solutions. I'm not familiar with any navigation software that interfaces with B&G systems other than Expedition and perhaps Adrena.