Moonduster

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About Moonduster

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  1. Moonduster

    Should Carbon Monoxide Alarms Be Mandatory?

    Far less than one death per year. So you're saying that legislation should be enacted that can have NO measurable affect? Why stop with CO detectors? If your are willing to legislate things that can't be measured, let's get the ball rolling ... No sailing on port tack, no spinnakers, no booms, hell, no sailing! Feeling safer yet?
  2. Moonduster

    Should Carbon Monoxide Alarms Be Mandatory?

    My mistake, yes CO. Leading cause of deaths, compared to falling off the boat while pissing, not even close.
  3. Moonduster

    Refinishing an old teak deck

    Without knowing a lot more about the situation, it's really not possible to say anything: Is it a plastic boat or a wooden boat? What's the age of the boat? How thick is the teak? How is the teak held down? It looks like screws at 12" centers. All those plugs will need to be replaced and most of the screws removed and reset. How many are there? There appear to be lots of deck fittings (stanchions, bimini tie downs, filler caps), all of which must be removed and then rebedded. How many fasteners are there in all that?
  4. Moonduster

    Prop Choice for Inflatable...

    That dink needs a 9.9hp outboard. The prop you put on your 4hp motor really won't make any discernible difference at all.
  5. Moonduster

    Should Carbon Monoxide Alarms Be Mandatory?

    No. That's the most absurd approach possible. Primarily because there are, essentially, none of the people of who's shoes you speak. Dollars spent on legislation and safety in general should be spent where there is return on those dollars. Playing whack-a-mole with a negligible factor contributing to an immeasurable risk is simply pissing in the wind. It's a waste of time, money and enforcement effort. You need to suck it up and understand that it's not a question of if, but when you're going to die. Once you get over that inevitable hump, then the question becomes what you do between now and then. Do you want to spend your time and money installing detectors that have approximately 0% chance of making any difference in your life or do you want to go sailing?
  6. Moonduster

    Reliability B&G vs NKE

    You say: However, I am most frustrated with the hardware reliability at current (engineer/mechanical/electrical background, so every thing I touch is properly installed). For example for the second time in 3 years my MHU failed, and it’s the damn expensive one for $US 3,000+ retail. The mechanics are great, its the stupid PCB inside... I say rubbish. Spend a week with a top installer doing Grand Prix, America's Cup or Volvo installations and you'll quickly learn that those who make electronics work offshore for a living have forgotten more than you know unless you work with them or in Formula 1 or a space program. Your MHU is failing because there was a bad batch of wind wand boards. The PCB doesn't cost $300 and if you know your dealer, they wouldn't charge you if the serial number was in the faulty batch. Lousy batch aside, you should plan to replace a wind board about every 10,000 miles; most club racers never have a problem. 90% of problems are interconnect, not PCB related. This is more true with NMEA2000 interconnect because the connector standard is horrible. 90% of the rest of problems are configuration or user error. The CEO of a yacht brand knows as much about electronics as he does about sails; they're both dealer options, the advice you got was worth what you paid. To your question regarding NKE and B&G, it's really a question of what you want. NKE's basic solution is quite dated but quite good. B&G has evolved significantly from the H3000 days. The H5000 is a more capable and better solution by almost any metric - but few programs can discern the different between a well-installed NKE or well-installed H5000 system. As is usually the case in such posts, you say nothing of the sailing you do, the kind of boat you're considering, the way you look at instrumentation dollars vs sail inventory dollars vs bottom prep dollars vs beer dollars. Your H3000 system is older than your car and probably older than your marriage. It's been working pretty well for a long time in a horrible environment with little care or attention except when it isn't working. It's been neglected, abused, ridden hard and put away wet. It's outlasted every sail you've ever bought. Stop whining.
  7. Moonduster

    Should Carbon Monoxide Alarms Be Mandatory?

    The number of deaths on sailboats is negligible. The number attributed to CO2 is a negligible portion of a negligible number. This legislation has absolutely nothing to do with saving lives as one can determine from the math suggested by the above. Now that we can agree that it has nothing to do with saving lives, please explain exactly what the purpose really is?
  8. Moonduster

    Should Carbon Monoxide Alarms Be Mandatory?

    You can't legislate safety and you can't teach common sense.
  9. Moonduster

    Ancor Comments and Question

    Nylon rode fails from internal friction that generates heat and melts the line. The failure comes from individual fibers failing inside the lay and gradually reducing the strength of the rode until what's left fails under tension. Detecting these failures is difficult and destructive as you need to unlay the line considerably to find the evidence. I believe that, if your rode's OD has changed substantially, it should be discarded or used for some purpose where breaking strength is not a significant concern.
  10. Moonduster

    2 x 25A => 50A circuit?

    You keep claiming that 10AWG wire is sufficient for the loads, but you don't indicate the length of the wire so it's not clear that's the case. Ampacity for 10AWG wire is around 30A. This is why you should not install a breaker rated for 2x your 18A requirement. If you do, you run the risk of starting a fire if you develop a short on one of the two legs. 10AWG wire conducting 18A @ 13V and allowing for a 5% voltage drop will run 10.6m, round trip or 17.5' from breaker to macerator. Allowing for 10% drop, you can double that distance. It's probably ok but warrants some approximate measurements based on the actual wiring routing from breaker to load. Combining the two loads onto a single breaker and using a breaker in the 20-25A range should work fine and be safe.
  11. The primary value in high-end sailing instrumentation is wind triangle calculations that result in reliable TWD and TWS. From these, you get VMG, Time-to-kill and lay line feedback. When you use NMEA2000-connected mast head sensors, your wind data is close to worthless. You're installing a great processor that is specifically designed to provide a pretty good wind triangle solution, but you're feeding it garbage and rationalizing displaying this garbage using a hodge podge of displays. I don't get it. Money is likely the underlying culprit; fair enough. Your 15% use case, J109 One Design racing, is the only pursuit you mention where nailing starts and lay lines will matter. Is your sail inventory and boat prep sufficiently good that instrumentation is the next place to invest? Do you sail well enough to believe instrumentation will help your cause? Do you have a navigator who can leverage instruments to get you a place or two around the course? Can you realistically afford to toss $10K on the fire to bolster 15% of your boat's usage? If so, then you should do yourself a favor and design an instrumentation system that reflects these goals and work in that direction as your budget allows. It may take you 2-3 years to transition and the approach you describe above might be a good first step, it's difficult to say. If not, then don't squander money on a great processor to which you're feeding garbage and that can only provide you with garbage out.
  12. Moonduster

    One Generator for two 30A circuits

    To have two separate AC sources (generator + shore power), you need to phase synchronize one source to the other. Generally speaking, forget about it. You certainly can't do this with your generator as the diesel spinning the generator would have to run at exactly 1500 RPM and that's not going to happen in the face of varying loads. And even then, it would need to have synchronization capability which is only a feature with new inverter-based generators. Your choices for getting more than 30A at the dock are: Find a 50A shore side receptacle Find sufficient shore-side receptacles on the same phase that sum to the current you want (2x 30A, 2x 20A, 3x 15A, etc) Unplug from the dock and fire up the generator I suggest spending an evening with all the manuals for all your AC equipment and create a spreadsheet that has turn-on and typical power values for each. Then, I'd spend some time on board measuring the actual running power demand of each load. 50A is a lot of power at 120VAC - I really believe you're over thinking a problem that most likely either: Doesn't exist; or Can be easily managed by not using the microwave and doing laundry (for example) at the same time.
  13. Moonduster

    One Generator for two 30A circuits

    Thinking about all this a bit, I recommend that you rewire your AC distribution so that your boat has a single 50A 110V (115, 120, 125) entry and main breaker. This is well matched to your generator, is inexpensive, simplifies your wiring, eliminates all the safety and logistical problems associated with the dual entries and reduces your entire problem to just a single concern, which is what to do when faced with a dock having only 30A outlets. The there are three solutions when faced with that problem: Use a Y setup to draw power from two shore side receptacles, having first made sure they're both the same phase Get by with "only" 30A of shore power while you're on the dock Run your generator on the dock when you need more than 30A I recommend against any kind of inverter setup given the size of your house battery, especially if you're thinking that the inverter can augment the generator output.
  14. Annoying compared to what? Compared to getting soaked to the skin at 2AM when you're freezing cold and annoyed with yet-another stupid call from the back of the boat to do a silly change - probably not. Seriously, you don't really know what or where you're sailing, so it's difficult to choose layers - next-to-skin, mid or outer. Foul weather gear deteriorates on the shelf, latex seals as quickly as neoprene. I'd suggest you hold off on purchases until you know what you need and then buy the best you can afford.
  15. Moonduster

    RIB - adding bilge pump between hull layers

    Is the space between the hulls vented? Usually, people think that sealing is the best approach but it isn't. During the heat of the day, the air inside expands and will force its way out. In the evening, as it cools and the air contracts, moist air is drawn in, condenses and water accumulates. To prevent this, adequate ventilation is the answer. To find existing leaks, soap bubbles are a good idea. But be super careful about the amount of pressure you build inside the hull as there's a lot of surface area and you don't want to split things apart. 1/2 psi creates a force of 70 pounds on just one square foot of surface and your RIB has a lot more surface area than that.