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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

sean9c

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About sean9c

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  1. Irens sure likes that high freeboard look, so do I. Though I'm not sure why he put the worlds ugliest dodger on it.
  2. Wow, that's scary, a blessing that no one was hurt. Looks like there was a problem with the jib sheet. Had a M242 they'll barely sail with just the jib, always put the main up before the jib. They scull great using the rudder. Instead of the helmsman just standing there hanging onto the tiller I'd been sculling like there was no tomorrow.
  3. Just what we need, another way to make boats more expensive.
  4. I agree that's likely what would have to happen and that is the problem. I'd think you'd get considerable fewer people interested in the upgrade if it involved cutting the floor out of their boat and all that. I have. Sean9c and I both are assuming there is something beneath what appears to be a pan that is not evident in the photo. I don't see how a keel that thin (drawing in Post #199 , which I believe is by Finot, not LB, shows max keel width of 3.5") with an in-line array of bolts on a 0.5" solid glass hull would not be wagging all over the place without some sort of stiffening structure. I don't think there is a "grid" I believe that molded interior pan just has a lot of bog down the center so that keel bolts have a solid structure to compress on. So to put in a flange support, you'd need to open up the area outboard of the mating area and fill the gaps with epoxy bog, assuming it isn't soaking wet in there.
  5. In asking if you needed CAD to do this keel I was being facetious. Sorry I didn't do it better.
  6. Any thoughts that after seeing the interior pictures of Pegasus and seeing that the keelbolts go through whatever frame structure there is and then up through the finished floorpan, which is likely bonded in, so you can't even see the structural grid, that in order to be at all practical you need to plan on using the existing keelbolt locations? I didn't realize you needed CAD for this project. I'd have just picked a section, made some offset tables, made a plug from those and sent it to the casting house.
  7. Wow, that was pretty agro. What, did you expect BP to build the frames also? His idea, he found the right guys to execute it, ya, he owns it. Not for you, when someone else does all the work: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/francis-lee-sails-50335.html#post687285
  8. I thought the original keels were iron not lead. I can see tapping threads into an iron keel to take a bolt , can't really see tapping lead. Not sure why you'd care what the original bolt/stud configuration was. Cast the middle 3 studs in your new lead keel, bolt thru your flare for the fore and aft most. I guess, with my other question, I was asking how do you know the keel you've designed will have provide lift at the sailing speeds of the First 235? By keeping the same depth (span) but increasing aspect ratio you've reduced area. Yes, it's more efficient but will the boat go fast enough for it to generate enough lift? And Proa, I'm not sure anyway else has said it but thanks for all your work, it's interesting. Yes, I did think of that. My understanding is that all of the existing bolts are threaded into the lead, not cast in place. By "new keel", are you referring to the LB MK III or to my humble efforts? I started by replicating the MK III profile but have since explored other flavors, tending toward a shorter root chord and longer tip chord to move lead (and CG) down toward the tip. From my multihull background (no ballast involved!), short chord and long span is what you want for windward performance. I love it when the daggerboard floats.
  9. For the first and last keel bolt instead of casting in studs have you thought about just putting holes in your root flare, put in bolts from the outside. Use a flathead bolt and countersink the keel. You'd think a nice 4 digit NACA section with the keel actually looking like the design would give a good performance increase over the iron thing that's on them now without having to get too carried away with more sophisticated ideas. The new keel looks a lot smaller than the old keel. How do you know it's enough area? Or, how have you optimized the keel area for sailing performance? Curious how you came up with those numbers? Structural and location issues aside for the moment, my concern is keeping the root flare volume to the absolute minimum necessary to make sure the two end bolts are buried in lead, not sticking through the bottom. "will need at least" defines minimums that sound marginal to me? 2.25" / 0.79" diameter = 2.85 bolt diameters of depth. 1.5" / 0.55" diameter = 2.7 bolt diameters. I will adjust my model to use "bury depth" instead of length so I can ignore the hull thickness issue. There is plenty of room for larger diameter bolts except for the last one at the trailing edge, where the foil gets narrow. From what I've read, though, the primary concern at the trailing edge of a keel is compression from a grounding at speed rather than tension. If my scaling of the LB MK III profile relative to bolt spacing is correct(?), we should also consider the possibility that there was no intention of using the first and last bolt at all? Maybe three larger, deeper bolts could be adequate with proper engneering? That would change the game entirely, eliminating the need for any flare at all, which adds lead where we don't want it at the top of the keel. Most of the bolt diagram is definitely junk. Making the boat stiffer is a relatively simple issue of lowering the CG. Making it point higher is more complex, getting quickly into foil theory.
  10. I'd think in order to make the project doable you'd have to make it economical. Would it make sense to start with the premise that you need to keep the keel bolt pattern as close to stock as possible and then design the keel around the bolt pattern?
  11. I'm curious. Why rake the leading edge? The rake angles you're looking at won't shed weed so why not just make it vertical? Also, why taper the blade? Why not the same chord length top to bottom? Would a vertical, non-tapered keel with no bulb be more efficient than the bulb keels you're looking at?
  12. I'm thinking the most important thing that flare does is move any weed down far enough that you can see it through a window or hanging over the rail. The flare does a couple of things: Increases the root area to decrease the load on the joint. Sometimes the engineer puts a bolt in the flare to help keep things snug (reference the keel smile). It helps a lot in a grounding situation. Hydrodynamically, there is turbulence created at the hull/foil intersection. The flare is supposed to "trip up" the turbulence and give it a chance to reattach a little earlier making it more efficient. In a theoretical sense, the sweepback angle and taper ratio have an optimum relationship. Practical considerations sometimes make it necessary to deviate from the optimum.
  13. How about eliminating the bulb? How much would the blade size increase to get same weight as with a bulb? CG would be higher than a keel with a bulb but still likely lower than original keel. Easier to tool and cast. Isn't a small boat like that is getting its stability, at sailing angles of heel, from crew weight not so much keel weight?
  14. I've rolled and tipped a number of LP's, tried Perfection for the first time the other day. Really, really long open time compared to the other LP's which, I guess, they do to allow it to flow out. Also allows it to sag and collect dust and bugs. I'll stick with Awlgrip. Interlux Primecoat is a pretty nice epoxy primer and economical. 3/1 mx ratio is a nuisance.