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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

killapenguin

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About killapenguin

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  1. How to replace Olson 30 quarterberth track

    I have an SC27 with the same problem. I drilled new holes and inserted shallow stainless screws (with the boat still in the water, somewhat sketchy), sealed each screw by dipping it in West Systems. It has held up swimmingly for one season, including crew sleeping on the bunk during rough upwind deliveries.
  2. Keel bulb repair on a Pogo2 MiniTransat. Any ideas?

    I like the idea of just repairing the areas that definitely need it, and keep the job relatively small. My wife and I completely stripped and refaired a fin keel a couple of years ago, and it's not a fun process (although the result was awesome). When it comes to fairing onto the lead, here is the method that was taught to me by someone who used to work for Gugeon Brothers and literally wrote their manual on how to fair a keel: - Scuff up the bare lead with sand paper du jour (i.e., 60 or 80 grit). Wear appropriate PPE and practice good hygiene for working with lead. - Apply one coat of neat (no filler) West Systems to all of the lead surfaces. - Use 60 or 80-grit wet sand paper to wet sand the epoxy before it cures. This allows the epoxy to create a chemical bond with un-oxidized lead surfaces (the sandpaper is scraping into the lead, which is still encapsulated in the wet epoxy). - Once it goes tacky, start applying West Systems thickened with fairing compound (peanut butter consistency that doesn't sag) to get one solid coat of fairing over all the lead surfaces. Even if this takes a while and the neat epoxy doesn't still feel tacky, you still get a good chemical bond to the first layer of neat epoxy as long as the fairing compound is applied during this initial working session/shift, since it takes ~24 hours for cross-linking to complete. - The idea is that you get a chemical bond of epoxy to unoxedized lead, then another chemical bond of fairing compound to epoxy. All other layers of fairing compound have primarily a physical bond to the previous layer of fairing compound. - After this, wait at least 24 hours (allow the fairing compound to cure), then sand to desired profile (80-grit, longboard, etc.), and then apply the next layer of fairing compound. It helps to use pigment to dye successive layers of fairing compound different colors to get a good 3-d view of where your highs and lows are as you build up and sand down. - I really liked using two metal trowels - one large one (~2 feet long) in my left hand to use as a "pallet" for the fairing compound, and a smaller one in my right hand to apply fairing compound to the keel. The metal is easy to clean as long as you wipe it with acetone ASAP. Some people use a notched trowel for the first coat to build up thickness, then smooth over that with a smooth trowel. If you do that, I would recommend adding the second "smoothing" coat just after the first coat sets up, but on the same day as the first coat, to avoid having to deal with removal of the amine blush that develops upon final cure. The notched trowel might be particularly effective on the curved surfaces of a bulb, where it can be difficult to get substantial buildup while maintaining a decent shape. - Use a batten or thin strip of wood to test the profile of the shape as you're sanding. It's easy to spot lows and highs. Or use a flashlight in the dark. Also, your hands don't lie. You can detect small inconsistencies pretty easily. - Once complete, coat with 5-7 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000e to seal it all in (best is to use alternating grey and white coats to ensure complete coverage), then apply bottom paint du jour.
  3. Low Profile Winch Handle

    As it turns out (and quite surprisingly, nonetheless), the Lewmar OneTouch has the same profile as their plastic floating p.o.s winch handle, and it seems to work perfectly for the application. Case closed. Thanks for the suggestions.
  4. Low Profile Winch Handle

    I recently installed new winches on the Santa Cruz 27. The new winches are slightly taller than the old Barients. Due to the slightly taller profile, the Harken winch handles that I have can no longer get a full rotation because they hit the lifeline. The primary culprit is the 1.5" "C" dimension here: http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=B10AL Were it not for the angle, these winch handles would work nicely. I need a winch handle that comes off at a 90 degree angle from the top of the winch in order to keep the handle lower, relative to the top of the winch. I have an old nylon Lewmar handle that works because the handle the angles are all 90 degrees. But I'd prefer to get something a little beefier than nylon for the winch handles. I considered the knob style low profile winch handles (like these http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=13213&taxid=1607), but I'd prefer an actual handle rather than a knob. Harken seems to be the only company that publishes the dimensions for their winch handles. And the local West Marine has very few options in stock (nothing that would work). I'm looking for ideas so I don't have to waste a bunch of money on return shipping when I end up ordering the wrong thing.
  5. Rethinking Vivid vs Trinidad SR

    My experience is in salt water, but I have used both paints - Trinidad SR and Vivid. I'm currently using the Vivid on my boat, and for one reason only - I like the color. You can't get Trinidad SR in yellow (it's a dumb reason, especially for the bottom, but it's a reason nonetheless). Hands down Trinidad SR is a better bottom paint, especially if you want a red or black bottom, or whatever color it comes in. Vivid needs a new bottom every 12-18 months, and it doesn't do such a good job of keeping the green slime at bay.
  6. Wind - The Movie

    Might be for the best really. That was the only Fosters that ever went down easy. I like how the foredeck guys are still up on the bow trying to take the jib down while the back of the boat have all literally jumped ship.
  7. Interprotect 2000 question

    It's amazing how much you can "feel" the highs and lows with your fingertips. This usually comes after many hours of sanding, when you start to really trust what you're feeling. Another handy trick is to go after dark and shine a light - the shadows stick out like a proverbial sore thumb. For fairing, I would avoid using an orbital altogether and go with the slower, painstaking process of using the longboard, in order to ensure a better result.
  8. sc27 keel bolts and joint

    We applied one thin layer of glass over the entire keel to tie all of the fairing together - I think it was 8-oz cloth or something like that. We assumed that the keel bolts and 5200 (or whatever it is) were the load-bearing structures, and just wanted some glass to strengthen the fairing a bit and prevent cracking. We did use a couple layers of Nytex on the bottom of the keel for some added protection when things go "bump." For the rest of the bottom, we sanded through a previously applied barrier coat down to the gelcoat, let that dry out for about a month (checking with a moisture meter about once a week), and then applied 8 layers of barrier coat (a minimum of 5 layers under the pads). We plan to haul out again this fall, looking forward to seeing how everything held up.
  9. sc27 keel bolts and joint

    I asked around about keel templates but to no avail. I even called Bill Lee. His response was classic - templates? nah, we didn't use templates when we built these things. When you get down to bare lead (as in this photo), you can see the fan-shaped lines that were drawn in with a grease pen (these are original lines - done by the builders 40 years ago). You can use a long batten or thin strip of wood to essentially make sure the top of the keel and the bottom tie in together with no high spots or low spots. The batten is bendy enough to allow you to follow a "natural" curve, but stiff enough to show you where the highs and lows are. You should only use a longboard to sand. We added various colors of pigment for each successive layer of fairing compound to help give a 3-dimensional perspective while sanding. The real trick is how to get a good bond to the lead. We ended up wetting out the lead with West Systems, and then sanding the wet epoxy into the lead with 60-grit wet/dry sandpaper. This gives the epoxy un-oxidized metal surfaces to bond to. First layer of fairing goes on while this epoxy layer is still tacky. Great advice from someone who used to work at Gugeon Brothers and did a lot of testing on how to bond to a metal keel. And for the bottom of the keel, we were lucky enough to be in a situation where we could let the boat sit in the slings for a few days.
  10. Best hand bearing compass

    I just picked up a Weems & Plath on Amazon. Haven't used it on the boat yet, but seems ok so far...
  11. sc27 keel bolts and joint

    Thanks for this reference. Can't believe I never thought to look for a table of torque settings. (mind blown ) Looking at the linked table, I see that most of the keel bolts (which are 1/2" - 13 size) should be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. This seems to be about what I might expect, and there are decent torque wrenches available in this size at a reasonable price. The one monster bolt (for lifting the boat) is 1 1/8" size (not sure about the thread count). This implies a recommended torque of 408 - 432 ft-lbs. We're talking about a $300 torque wrench for one bolt. Is it worth it?
  12. sc27 keel bolts and joint

    We replaced the nuts and washers in our SC27 about a year ago with 316 SS that we purchased from the local specialty fastener store. We used LifeCaulk under the new washers. We were more concerned about water leaking from the sump area through the keel bolts and into the keel fairing than seawater migrating upwards. We also re-painted the keel sump with a 2-part epoxy primer (Interlux) and Bilge-Kote. This was part of a much larger job of re-fairing the entire keel because the original fairing was almost completely delaminated from the keel. We got a pretty good chance to inspect the keel-hull joint when it was all down to bare lead and gelcoat with no fairing compound. Looks like they originally used 5200 to bond between the lead and the glass. That looked solid with no cracks or voids. What we were missing was recommendations for a setting to torque the new bolts to. Any suggestions?
  13. Newly installed transducer is leaking?

    The best example for when to use 5200 on a boat might be the hull to deck joint. It's a permanent installation that you would never have a conceivable reason to "un-stick." I have never bought, and can't imagine ever needing to buy, a tube of 5200. I always am amazed to see that West Marine carries a metric shit-ton of 5200 in stock. It should be kept in the back room, under lock and key, and you should be required to explain the extenuating circumstances that require you to need it instead of a more suitable product. LifeCaulk is the "go-to" sealant for most items such as deck mounted hardware (including recently installed transducer and paddle wheel) on my boat. Windows should generally be mounted using 3M VHB double-sided tape and Dow Corning 795(?) sealant. Many good articles elsewhere about this combo. I did this about 6 months ago and couldn't be happier. Silicone is a (sometimes) necessary evil in limited cases for certain small jobs.
  14. J/35 - New masthead, gauges and plotter

    I'm very pleased with the "basic" NKE system that I purchased about a year ago for my SC27. It consists of the following products: - Fluxgate compass - Paddle wheel speed sensor - Depth sounder - Depth/Speed Interface - Masthead wind sensor (standard resolution, not the HR version) - Multigraphic display (this thing is awesome) For a larger boat, such as a J35, I would consider adding the TL25 display. But a single multigraphic display mounted on the bulkhead seems to be sufficient for the SC27.
  15. Un-Sound Boatworks...

    I ordered a Slam foul weather jacket in 2015. After about 3 months, they had actually charged me for the same jacket two times, and I had not received it. It took another month or so to get the charges removed. Will never do business with them again. Prefer Defender, APS, Mauri Pro, and Jamestown Distributors.