killapenguin replied to jreisberg's topic in Fix It AnarchyI like the idea of just repairing the areas that definitely need it, and keep the job relatively small. My wife and I completely stripped and refaired a fin keel a couple of years ago, and it's not a fun process (although the result was awesome). When it comes to fairing onto the lead, here is the method that was taught to me by someone who used to work for Gugeon Brothers and literally wrote their manual on how to fair a keel: - Scuff up the bare lead with sand paper du jour (i.e., 60 or 80 grit). Wear appropriate PPE and practice good hygiene for working with lead. - Apply one coat of neat (no filler) West Systems to all of the lead surfaces. - Use 60 or 80-grit wet sand paper to wet sand the epoxy before it cures. This allows the epoxy to create a chemical bond with un-oxidized lead surfaces (the sandpaper is scraping into the lead, which is still encapsulated in the wet epoxy). - Once it goes tacky, start applying West Systems thickened with fairing compound (peanut butter consistency that doesn't sag) to get one solid coat of fairing over all the lead surfaces. Even if this takes a while and the neat epoxy doesn't still feel tacky, you still get a good chemical bond to the first layer of neat epoxy as long as the fairing compound is applied during this initial working session/shift, since it takes ~24 hours for cross-linking to complete. - The idea is that you get a chemical bond of epoxy to unoxedized lead, then another chemical bond of fairing compound to epoxy. All other layers of fairing compound have primarily a physical bond to the previous layer of fairing compound. - After this, wait at least 24 hours (allow the fairing compound to cure), then sand to desired profile (80-grit, longboard, etc.), and then apply the next layer of fairing compound. It helps to use pigment to dye successive layers of fairing compound different colors to get a good 3-d view of where your highs and lows are as you build up and sand down. - I really liked using two metal trowels - one large one (~2 feet long) in my left hand to use as a "pallet" for the fairing compound, and a smaller one in my right hand to apply fairing compound to the keel. The metal is easy to clean as long as you wipe it with acetone ASAP. Some people use a notched trowel for the first coat to build up thickness, then smooth over that with a smooth trowel. If you do that, I would recommend adding the second "smoothing" coat just after the first coat sets up, but on the same day as the first coat, to avoid having to deal with removal of the amine blush that develops upon final cure. The notched trowel might be particularly effective on the curved surfaces of a bulb, where it can be difficult to get substantial buildup while maintaining a decent shape. - Use a batten or thin strip of wood to test the profile of the shape as you're sanding. It's easy to spot lows and highs. Or use a flashlight in the dark. Also, your hands don't lie. You can detect small inconsistencies pretty easily. - Once complete, coat with 5-7 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000e to seal it all in (best is to use alternating grey and white coats to ensure complete coverage), then apply bottom paint du jour.
I ordered a Slam foul weather jacket in 2015. After about 3 months, they had actually charged me for the same jacket two times, and I had not received it. It took another month or so to get the charges removed. Will never do business with them again. Prefer Defender, APS, Mauri Pro, and Jamestown Distributors.