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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About nzintcanoe

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  1. Something I found interesting when playing with my new gps the other day was that whether I went in to a tack going 4 knots or 10 knots I came out of it going about 2 knots. That wasn't very self esteem building but the surprising thing was in 10 knots of wind it only took about five seconds to get back up to 10 knots boat speed. Now without taxing the brain too much it looks to me like at that rate you are going to lose somewhere around 5 seconds per tack. But everybody has to tack so your relative loss won't be huge compared to the fast tackers. I don't think it's worth it to sacrifice straight line speed to gain tacking speed. And why the hell isn't ic blast's boat finished yet? Alright already. progress pics here now. Centrecase has been molded and next step is to fix her in and we're back on track .
  2. All you need to do is to suggest something to her ladyship that she needs the space in the shed for... then you'll have all the "encouragement" to get the boat completed you could possibly need and then some more... That could be taking it one step too far Good idea though!
  3. Cheers, that feels better, I'll get on to it now!
  4. Ok, I need you guys to shout at me a while to get my build back on track...any takers?
  5. Cheers Phil Definitely. Am thinking of wrapping some unis around a 19mmd4s cedar for that particular job instead of a BH. There will be a BH between the CPs as well but I reckon overkill in this one area will be a good investment. Pardo
  6. I probably haven't been paying attention. What design is that? Looks like a Flatpack? Hey Nutter It's actually based on the lines from lust puppet squashed and flattened out to fit the new rules. I built a male mould and stitch & glued her together. The theory is ply and glass and carbon where it counts. Time will tell or it may blow apart spectacularly - but I'm having fun putting her together!
  7. The glacial speed of my build has started to ramp up a bit now that she's back home. Now have foredeck on so she's starting to look like a canoe. Cheers
  8. Cheers guys The build is stumbling along from a combination of factors: preparing for OK worlds in Feb, keeping work afloat and wife is pregnant...again. I have got someone interested in NZL2 (nethercott) so once I'm done we should have a couple of boats to play together. Have also got a set of (nethercott) plans down to a prospect in Christchurch (tried to get him to build to new rules but he wants a kite) - we may triple the fleet in the next 12 months! Pardo
  9. On measurement; I have a slight problem of my bow joining with a slight concave (about 5mm deep measured in a straight line back from the bow) will this measure or not? - curious. Cheers
  10. No doubt you US guys will be trying to get an IC for Mr Clean to try vs the rest.
  11. Hi Mal My hull (no decks yet - still.) has been built using carbon where necessary under frames and taped on joins etc. 100gsm eglass over 3mm gaboon both sides - haven't weighed it yet. Took a bit of advice and pluck to go that way and may prove too soft when rig tension gets pulled on but I had to cut costs as well. It seems to be plenty stiff so far but time will tell. I think the chines may also add to f-a stiffness Cheers
  12. Geoff, Do you think you'd need to pack them differently to send one or two seat kits to NZ? Extra cost for packing? I'd get my freight guy to sort everything else. Cheers Sorry - wrong Geoff Cheers
  13. Geoff, Do you think you'd need to pack them differently to send one or two seat kits to NZ? Extra cost for packing? I'd get my freight guy to sort everything else. Cheers
  14. Had a quote here in the uk to have the seat cut by CNC Laser and it was very close to £300 GBP and I would have to supply the ply on top of the price + VAT so looking for someone i the Trade now AdrianM IC166 I've had the cnc seat cut quoted at about $5-600 NZ peso, having to supply ply as well so sounds about right.
  15. ok, so now I have my rudder blank ready but am a bit unsure as to how my rudder pintle/shaft(?) will sit in the cedar/carbon cassett It is a carbon sheathed fibreglass rod (tent pole - go the kluge ) so I'm thinking maybe some tufnel washers of some sort set in at top and bottom of cassett?? any guidance much appreciated Cheers