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24 Suckup

About Steve

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  • Location
    duluth, mn
  • Interests
    Sailing, boatbuilding, design, more than one hull.

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  1. Steve

    Laser 28

    Would you consider an F27 trimaran? No im not selling one but i have sailed one including a 360 mile race and just think one may fit the criteria pretty well and they are reasonably affordable.
  2. Steve

    Route du Rhum 2018

    I wear crocs too sometimes and they are a pretty good boat shoe when new, when the sole gets worn they are deadly on any surface. They are superemly comfortable and i have never given a fuck what others think anyway.
  3. Steve

    The 2018 Golden Globe Race

    While it may be more elegant I don't find inner sleeves to be a great solution for anything except joining two sections together because they are never a perfect fit and rely on a lot of fastenings which cause problems of their own. If they could be bonded instead of fastened I would agree but not really possible 15 - 20ft up inside a mast unfortunately.
  4. Steve

    The 2018 Golden Globe Race

    That's a rather more modern rig than these boats would normally have. I don't get it. Other than the crappy old hulls these boats are not much like 1968 boats as far as i can tell with modern rigs, sails and cordage. I don't see that riveted tang as being much of an improvement. A good sized welded doubler under the bolt and shroud tang and would do more to prevent what is believed to have happened to Heede. A bunch of closely spaced rivets or machine screws is never a good idea.
  5. Steve

    Three cheers?

    Other than having three hulls i don't see any resemblance at all to a Newick. A HH54 for sure.
  6. Steve

    Epoxy/aluminum long term bonding

    Yes, it was /is a tall fractional alluminum rig on an old one tonner. The thing was sleeved in a traditional manner up to a point above the gooseneck presumably from new with a lot of fasteners and there were quite a few cracks caused by the fasteners. A new rig was out of the question based on cost as it would cost more than the boat was worth. So we laid up a glass sleeve around the area using uni and double bias with epoxy and it has proven itself to be a practical repair and is still going strong after 8-10 years so far. If we had not done this the entire boat would have been scrapped.
  7. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    Interesting, one of the other things i understand they tried was building up the thickness of the outer end of the boom to help drive the sail forward. It certainly seems that it is very tricky getting it to work just right.
  8. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    Thanks for the info Ben, It seems like your program is much like mine as i am mostly looking to make life easier. My current Mack pack system works very well but there is a lot of clutter involved so the furling boom is very appealing. Unfortunately it has become more of an academic excersize at this point because i just realized that my mast has flat slides instead of a bolt rope track so not much i can do about that.
  9. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    Thats a beautiful rig Russell. I had correspondence with the folk at Gougeons some years back and they graciously shared what they had learned over the years and if i remember rightly they wanted the the sail to move forward towards the mast but instead of a crank through the mast they used a home built line drive system system behind the mast which consisted of a pair of 1/4" plywood discs with a bunch of clam cleats sandwitched between around the perimeter. As the sail moves forward when reefing or furling it stacks up against the line drive disc rather than the mast. Seems like it could prevent binding up against the mast.
  10. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    I just stumbled on something online titled "How to maintain an F-boat" There are articles by a lot of different people but the one titled "Boom height" is of interest to me as it is by Ian Farrier himself and he states and i quote "It is quite feasible and structurally ok to re drill new holes for the boom roller furling shaft higher up the mast to lift the boom as required, luff rope entry points (and feeders) may also need moving up as these need to be a reasonable height above the boom to work well" end quote. He does go on about recutting the sail but this suggests to me that some owners must do this, maybe folks who just cruise and use a bimini. I would guess that without a vang putting a lot of forward force at the gooseneck the mast is not particularly loaded there although the in boom furlers do use a vang.
  11. Steve

    Epoxy/aluminum long term bonding

    No, its been a long time since iv'e used it but try googling VDS rubber foil, its very thin, maybe .010" We used to buy it at 12"wide from Snowtech in Seattle. Don't know if they still exist as that was in the 1990's. let us know what you find. It was a European product and made all the difference as to whether a snowboard lasted or not. My son still rides boards we built 25 years ago. Without the foil you would be lucky to get through a season without edge delam.
  12. Steve

    Epoxy/aluminum long term bonding

    In the ski/snowboard industry we used a very thin acid etched rubber foil between dissimilar materials such as hardened steel edges and the epoxy glass laminate. I have always felt it would have a place for applications just like this both as an isolator and to introduce a slightly flexible interface between materials with dissimilar stiffness. This is the job it does very well in snowboards that have to endure much more abuse than anything i have seen in the marine industry. I have in fact used an epoxy/ s glass external sleeve to repair an otherwise unrepairable mast that has worked very well for probably 8 years and counting.
  13. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    Thanks Mizzmo, good insight. I currently have lazy jacks as part of the mack pack sail cover system and i do like it but lazy jacks come with their own issues. In my case hoisting the main with lazy jacks can be problematic because you need to be exactly upwind or battens will get hooked on a lazy jack so you need to lower a little and try again, this can be a pain if you are by yourself. This may be less of a problem with a roachy full batten sail like an F boat but with a pinhead short batten sail its a nuisance i would like to avoid. I agree that the feeding of the bolt rope is something that would need to be carefully thought out and i think feeding it in higher up and using a self aligning pre feeder would help. I do not have a big rig with a 35ft luff so not a particularly large sail to hoist. Is there a particular angle of boom to mast in the F boat manual? This is very important with in boom furling and i think it is something like 87 degrees. I believe the idea is to have the sail work its way forward rather than aft as it is rolled. The Gougeon brothers have always used simple roller booms on their trimarans over the years and they did send me a lot of info on how they did it a few years ago. Theirs were always very simple home made settups and they did not use a through the mast crank but rather a line drive drum behind the mast so they could reef from the cockpit and they would fatten up the boom at the outer end so the sail would drive forward against the drum. What i think would work well would be to have a bolt rope track machined out of PE like a tides track that would slide into the existing track but with maybe the bottom foot not into mast track and free to self align as a pre feed. It would be much more slippery than aluminum.
  14. Steve

    Farrier type roller furling boom

    Yep, that's why I asked about any beefing up, (see #9 above) I would be surprised if the wall thickness on the corsairs is any heavier. This type of conversion is done all the time with in boom furlers such as Leisure furl.