Steve

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About Steve

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    duluth, mn
  • Interests
    Sailing, boatbuilding, design, more than one hull.

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  1. Steve

    Non Skid that works & doesn't look crap?

    An alternative to using sugar in your paint is Epsom salts. I have used the Soft sand on my current boat and like it a lot, I already had good grip from the molded non skid but it was so oxidized that it left white streaks over my new windows when it rained. I scrubbed the hell out of it but did not sand it at all then masked off and rolled on awlcraft and the completely covered it with fine soft sand, it was like sand on the beach, then next day vacuumed it up into a new bag for reuse and rolled on 2 coats of awlcraft with flattening agent. Iv'e tried most of the different methods and this is the most even.
  2. Steve

    Ferrocement Anarchy!

    sounds like you just described the double ender that went on the beach in California recently, lots of little pieces, it was glass though I think.
  3. Steve

    Ferrocement Anarchy!

    We had a couple of Ferro boats in the area about 40 years ago, one, a Hartley South Seas motor sailer ended up doing valuable service as a fish reef/dive site, not because of any issue with the hull which was actually quite nice but the moron builder used particle board to build the cabin structure. The other, a Peter Ibold design is still in use as far as I know. On the other hand both of the local plywood Searunner 31 trimarans went under the chainsaw and to the landfill so their demolition costs were higher. Incidently we demolish one or two production glass boats each year, a Santana 28 just a couple of weeks ago.
  4. Steve

    Newport Beach Sailboat Destroyed

    Glad everyone got off safe, So much for the belief that heavy displacement cruisers can take a pounding. Sad for the owner, hope it was well insured.
  5. What Are the actual physical dimensions? I have a few of those old cast aluminum Bomars in my inventory.
  6. Steve

    diy cooler?

    Yeti and their clones do have nice tough cases and gaskets but apart from that are equally poorly designed as the cheap ones. We lived with one of the big yetis for 2 months delivering my son and his girlfriends boat home and I grew to hate coolers in general. Always looking for ice, food floating around in water etc, horrible design. If you must use ice you could do much better building your own cooler, 2" pink foam would be fine sheathed with glass or carbon if you wanted to but keep in mind that the bond of epoxy to the foam is not very good so the skin would need to be thick enough to be self supporting, maybe an actual structural foam such as divinycell or corecell but in a lower density than the H80 we typically use for boat construction, then you could probably use thinner skins. I would glass both sides of the sheet and then cut out the panels and after assembly, glass tape the outside corners and just filet the inside. Gasket material can be had from Mcmaster Carr, I would use an EPDM foam gasket in a D section with a PSA. They have lots to choose from. The most important thing though is to build a shelf up high in the box at one end to place the ice, a deep watertight tub really with a drain to the outside with a spigot. It would be about halfway up the end so you can fit your glass under it and use the ice water as it melts instead of wasting it. If you build it this way you take full advantage of the fact that cold air falls and the food can be kept in the bottom without getting wet. I have built a few large fridges over the years and the last one I built was 6ft3 and I used 4" of pink foam and lined the inside with that pebbly finished white fiberglass panel you can get at the big box stores and bonded it with the blue adhesive in a caulk tube they sell for this purpose, Pl 300 or something like that, and glassed and awlgripped the outside. We used a Danfoss compressor to cool it. Polyisocyanurate is another foam the big box stores sell which has a higher r value. Block ice lasts a lot longer than cube ice but you would need an ice pick to get ice for your cocktails.
  7. Steve

    DAGGERBOARD AND RUDDER CORE

    Nocal. I'm using a modified NACA 0012 section, and yes, whatever you use for the shear web and the fore and aft location controls the shape which is why it is not always possible to use something off the shelf. In this case the blades needed to fit in existing rudder cages so I am a few mm thinner than 12%. These are for an older model Gemini catamaran and they weigh in at a bit under half the weight of the original wooden planks. The simplest shear web would be a piece of wood but I prefer to keep organics out of it. amgpuma, You don't need to infuse, in fact it is easier to just hand lay, you just end up with optimum fiber fraction and no pinholes. I used infusion epoxy because I had it on hand but it is just as easy and of course much cheaper to hand lay with VE or even PE.
  8. Steve

    DAGGERBOARD AND RUDDER CORE

    Ok, I took a couple of photos of a mold and holding fixture.
  9. Steve

    Remembering Those Who Died

    You are missing the point, the first line of defense for every country is the guy/woman at the top, those that listened to their science advisors and shut the country down when they had few cases and no deaths and it was containable have seen relatively few deaths, see, Australia, New Zealand, Taiwan, Viet Nam and others. Those that denied science and knew better than everyone else such as Donald "its just a bad flue" Trump and Boris " take it on the chin" Johnson it would never have gotten out of control and overrun the " best health system in the world". Cuomo had to play the hand he was dealt by a know all fuck all president.
  10. Steve

    Best bunk orientation

    At least with the athwartship orientation it is possible for both occupants to be able to get up to pee without crawling over the other. I have a side loader queen, fine for one, not great for two.
  11. Steve

    DAGGERBOARD AND RUDDER CORE

    Sorry I forgot to check back, I will pull out a mold and holding fixture and photograph them today and post them. All my older blades were hand laid but the recent ones were infused and I will never go back. I have built two blades out of the same mold but using two different approaches, The first I let it cure at the 45 degrees and then folded it up and glued the trailing edge as a second operation while inserted in the holding fixture which sets the max thickness and provides the pressure on the shear web. The second one I did a bit differently as I sealed the bag and drew vacuum and then closed it up most of the way and inserted it, mold and all into a holding fixture that allowed for the thickness of the mold and only then did I infuse it. I liked this way better but next time I will use an aluminum mole rather than mild steel as it should have a better memory to return to the default 45 degree open position. Either way the pros of infusing are that you end up with optimum fiber fraction and no puckering in the nose section and a perfect pin hole free surface which you can just sand and paint without primer so minimum weight. The cons are that it will always be a two step process as you need it spread open to remove the infusion consumables. I use no core so if they were ever damaged you just drain the water out. I capped the ends with a coosa/glass insert and will be installing Gore tex SUP valves in the top to let them exhale . I made my own I beams for the shear webs by molding fiberglass channels and then gluing them together back to back but you could also use a off the shelf square tube if you can get one long enough, a bit heavier but less work.
  12. Yep, American exceptionalism at work, were beating everyone.
  13. What a fuckwit, she claims she's a health human being, how the fuck does she know, was she tested? She claims a 99% survival rate, a typical fuckwit who only thinks of herself.
  14. Steve

    DAGGERBOARD AND RUDDER CORE

    Laurent, I'm not so tech savvy and don't know how to post a sketch but let me have another try at describing the mold. If you are looking at the end of the mold it would be like a letter V but you would fold the top 2 edges back at 90 degrees to create a flange. When I have done hand laminating I would make the mold the length of the part I wanted and I would screw a strip of wood to the underside of the flange as something to use clamps on to fold it closed but when infusing you want extra length and wider flanges to have room to seal your vacuum bag to. To your second question I have done it several different ways, with hand laying I would do the layup and then insert the beam in the right location as I was closing it up and then insert it into a jig which holds it at the correct thickness and clamps the beam and you are bonding the trailing edge as part of the same operation. The only problem with this way is that you tend to get a little puckering of the laminate in the area ahead of the beam as you fold it up. not a big deal and I think there are ways to mitigate this but I have moved on to infusion. I have to leave for a while but I will get back later with the infusion methods.
  15. Steve

    DAGGERBOARD AND RUDDER CORE

    Zonker, I was shown this method over 40 years ago by a friend, multihull designer, Malcolm Tennant and it is commonly used in New Zealand. I have built everything from a retractable bulb keel foil, a rudder for a Searunner 31 and various other constant chord blades although I believe you could do tapered ones too. You have a Sheetmetal shop fold a sheet of 16ga aluminum or steel down the center to 45 degrees to act as the mold. If they have the dies of the nose radius you want that's great but i'm rarely that lucky so I usually have to sweep an epoxy fillet into the mold at the desired radius. I have them fold a 90 degree fold to keep the trailing edge straight. I do use a couple of different external holding fixtures, one to keep it upright when you do the layup and one that you force it into as you close it up that holds it at the correct thickness at the appropriate distance from the leading edge. I have been evolving the method from the original hand layup with polyester to the last ones shown were infused with Pro set epoxy. The original system Malcolm showed me used a syntactic foam to fill them with using bean bag Styrofoam beads mixed with epoxy to fill them as a core but I have moved away from using a core at all preferring to use a structural skins and a structural beam. I have only done two with infusion and its a big improvement. The last blades were 300mm chord x 2m and the mold cost $160 so pretty damn economical and I still have the mold to use again. You could gelcoat the mold and pop out a finished part but that's a lot of weight and with infusion there are no pinholes to fill so its just sand and paint, much lighter. With infusion you do have to glue the trailing edge as a secondary operation though but that's no big deal.