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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

samc99us

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About samc99us

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  1. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    I've looked into this a good bit. I have what amount to 2 brand new F18 non decksweeping mains (and a third, a new DS). Can't sell the old new ones so I figured I'd get them converted...well I've had two well known and fast sail makers tell me yes only to not get back to me with quotes etc. My local sail maker, whose time is limited, guessed it would run $800-$1000 for the recut. I've heard of less being spent but because of the mods to the top of the sail and the leech,the battten pockets have to be re-done. Also, a new luff tape gets installed. Estimates are basically 6-8 hours for a re-cut vs. 10-12 hours for a new sail. Just doesn't make sense unless you are a sailmaker.
  2. JMF, I have sailed (briefly) the foiling Moth and at length a well sorted foiling A-Cat (Exploder AD3). The A-Cat is still low down on the development curve compared with the Moth, so that has some downsides, but at the moment at least the board position has been sorted and the foil evolution has slowed a good bit. The biggest downside to the A is its lack of upwind foiling compared with the Moth. The upside is its very stable, IMO pretty easy to foil, and usable in low winds. The moth is trickier to launch (keep this in mind!), and not much fun in non-foiling conditions. I would argue the wind range on the A is larger and it can handle more sea state than the Moth. Again, all tradeoffs, the Moth is a wonderful boat and if you can pick up a good one for the right price than go for it. I also advise you to go sail a properly sorted foiling A as well as a Moth before buying either.
  3. Moving up from a Hobie 16

    My advice is to find a good used Hobie Tiger or Nacra Infusion. This isn't a knock on the monohull crowd, but in the price and size range you are talking, its either balls to the walls performance or a slower boat like the bucc's and to some extent FD. Used Tigers, Infusions and Cap 's are out there-saw a nicely sorted Cap 1 sell for less than $6k this past year in the Northeast. F18's are a HUGE speed upgrade compared with the Hobie 16 (and significantly faster than most any monohull in the price range, comparable in speed to International 14 foot skiffs FYI), nice size OD fleet in the U.S (Worlds in Sarasota, FL in 2018), including a fleet in the Seattle area, you still have the tramp with space for a cooler for lazier sailing. There is a local Infusion at my club regularly sails 3 up, father and 2 daughters, just don't hoist the kite if you're looking for a lazy run down wind. In terms of forgiveness and durability, these are also generally higher than most high performance dinghys imo, which aren't very stable in roll and gybing in breeze is a hairy affair. Most readily damaged bits would be the main sail if you plow through or the boom if again you plow through in a capsize. It's possible to snap a rig in really breezy conditions downwind with the kite up with high sea state and stuffs-leave the main cleated down pretty hard and its a non issue. Parts are readily available as the F18 is open manufacturing so spares from Hobie, Nacra, Goodall, Falcon tend to work. PM me if you have any additional questions.
  4. How to build large format display

    rgeek, Do you have any plans to bring a similar unit to market for the under 20 foot class? I realize you are focused on launching the D10 for the moment; I would give that serious thought but on the extremely wet and fast boats I sail (high performance cats), the ipad-esque form factor wouldn't last very long. Happy to beta test...
  5. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    I raced a C-board boat with winglets back at 2015 NA Midwinters. It did not have sliders for the boards, nor was I really confident to push the boat hard downwind from the wire etc. It didn't have a propensity to foil, I will give you that. I am comparing that experience to my F20c experience. That latter had sliders installed and would easily foil downwind with the kite up in 12-14kts of breeze. I believe it would have been somewhat stable with t-foil rudders and an Olympic helm. I also believe the same is true of the N17-the top guys were full foiling without any rudder foils on the Mk. 1's. All that being said, the A is a different animal and the 1.5m rule limits the curvature of the C-boards. The C's are also inherently prone to slipping laterally with no winglet at the tip and aren't particularly heave stable. I do think the top C-board boats will be running sliders and quality asymmetric boards with t-winglets. Maybe they can fully foil in the right conditions but with the sliders they could go to minimum lift.
  6. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    I'm playing devils advocate and I hope this is the case as well as it really keeps the class alive. Including both boats at major events has proven very successful in the U.S, I believe the A is now the largest class in terms of regatta attendance etc.
  7. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    Yes BUT elevator winglets are class legal in the A, so c-board boats could foil and do so in control in the right conditions.
  8. Gitana Maxi 17

    The AC50 foils on TNZ were solid carbon and were delaminating if the article I read is to be believed. Just because something is solid doesn't mean its capable of taking the loads. It is still possible to draw an airfoil section that is too thin to actually build. In this case, I suspect they underpredicted the forces on the foil in torsion and probably net pressure force. I say this as they clearly got the main spar ahead of the primary delamination spot correct, otherwise there is a good chance the foil would have snapped.
  9. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    So to clarify, something like a late model well setup DNA C board boat with late gen flexi boards that support trapping downwind is considered a classic? Further, the mode where this has the same proportion of hull in the water that Macif does reaching/downwind, this is still considered classic mode?
  10. F16 like foiler?

    Well the OP asked about a foiling F16. A new F16 is north of $19k USD and is a pretty high performance boat. Not sure how it stacks up against the Whisper or S9 in terms of speed, but those are certainly good choices in this category. Their may be a S9 fleet in the RI area? There is also the UFO, a smaller boat but another geared towards singlehanded sailing.
  11. Old NORLAM from North Sails

    +1 to all the above. We set off across the Atlantic with 5+ headsails and a main, all NORLAN about 10 years old with some miles on them and some crispy patches as you describe. Sail maker looked them all over and ranked them, but the ranking should have been put them in the trash (not all his fault, there wasn't time to build new sails pre-race). We filled a dumpster on the other side with all of these sails; would have been much better leaving the dock with the old Dacron sails.
  12. Which Smock to buy

    Owners MPX. We were sailing in 35kts minimum (regularly 40kts+ on the anemometer) for 7+ days straight. Following seas but steady 12-15 footers with breakers on top of that, flooded the aft cabin twice. Getting gear on in the middle of the night 10 days into an ocean crossing on a boat that is constantly moving for non pro sailors is tough on gear.
  13. F16 like foiler?

    The short answer is to buy the the newest boat you can afford. In the U.S there is a 2015 DNA that has the boards moved to the current position (40cm) aft of the main beam that would make a great starter boat. There is an Exploder A15 that would also be a good choice. My training partners AD3 is always available for the right price and is a fully sorted boat with the latest boards (Z22's) in the correct position. What to look for in a boat: 1) Is the front beam in the correct location? 2700mm from the transom is a good baseline, Scheurer took the G7 to 3000mm with a variable mast step. 2) The leading edge of the boards aren't further aft than 50cm from the front beam. 3) Rudders, the newest kit is generally best. T's have been found to be more stable than L's so that is the preference. 4) Mast, Fiberfoam Medium Flexi, Hall Medium Flexi and Saarberg Medium Flexi are the requirement. We've found the newest Hall bombproof and it has great bend numbers but Fiberfoam took the top slots at worlds for the past several years so are well proven. 5) For a foiler, a DS is critical. Beyond that it comes down to details, and standard boat things (no collisions, delamination spots, poor repairs). I wouldn't recommend converting a platform unless you already own it. Conversions can be competitive but finding a proper one is tough and for the money involved in doing a proper conversion you are better off buying a proper used factory foiler.
  14. A Class Worlds - Classic Division

    Per classic aero theory, yes. However one also has to remember that we are sailing in a boundary layer, and there is more wind aloft than at the deck of a 30' rig. On the foiler, one cannot accept the increased heel that the top of the sail generates in virtually any condition above 7 kts of wind speed, so the heads have become smaller and smaller, dropping below 800mm (look at latest Brewin and Mischa A-Cat DS's). Now compare these to what the latest F18 DS sails are using-they are in the 750-900mm range for the head size with pretty short foots, ~1m, which leaves a nice hole for tacking and gybing with 2. One doesn't quite need that on an A Cat but more space does make for easier maneuvering! Our opinion is the 2016 Glaser A-Cat DS, which has a pretty big head (I have the actual number somewhere, but IIRC its ~800mm), is a fast sail in up to 10kts of breeze. This is based on foiling test data but the non-foilers are very surprised at how well this works on the Hall Medium Flexi rig in the light conditions. I would happily recommend this sail to a classic sailor looking for a new sail. I am sure the Landy WnW has is similar.
  15. F16 like foiler?

    Good thing there are a lot of quality foilers coming onto the market. One nice thing about the A class is there are always a number of sailors buying new platforms yearly so good boats are available on the used market. There are at least 2 in the U.S for sale at very reasonable prices IMO that have the beams and boards in the right position.