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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

ScowVegas

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  1. I've used the headlight restore stuff available at the auto parts places
  2. Filet a radius using a spreader that is cut to the radius that is suitable for the keel joint - as for sanding , use a pirce of cut dowl rod at the same diameter as the radius of the cut spreader
  3. You may consider passivating your steel - Phosphoric acid does a nice job - some use Nitric , others citric - Citric acid is the Backstreet Boys of passivation chemistry IMHO https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivation_(chemistry)
  4. Here is a another article on moisture meter usage - Google is an amazing thing http://www.marinesurveyor.com/meters.html
  5. You gotta recore that stuff - if it is apparent where it is soggy , you better believe that that you have water intrusion far beyond that . get a moisture meter - or find a yard tech that can take a marker nd draw a line of the affected area and cut it out and replace - Here is a good how to guide - Check out Section 5 http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf
  6. For ease of application , the WEST SYSTEM 610 product not only is easy to apply overhead, it also contains similar flex additives that are found n G/Flex but at a low concentration - its great for keel joints. To fair the joint there are many products you can go to - in the WEST SYSTEM line 407 would be the go to over 410 it goes on smooth and sands very well. what ever you choose to use, its always a good idea to put a coat or tow of neat epoxy over the sanded fairing compound to ensure a good moisture barrier -
  7. I was under the impression Comp One did not sell to retail customers. I think all the local yards buy or have bought from the local branch, but I can't think of any DIYer who has mentioned them. I'd love to be proven wrong. Depending on where the OP is located, Fiberglass Supply in Burlington WA carries almost everything including warp UD S-Glass and carbon. Best E-Glass prices I've seen posted as well. Hmm that might be the case - I've always gone through direct , but it was under a company name - this is my next go to http://shop.fiberglasssupply.com/
  8. If you can't get it here , http://www.compositesone.com/ - you can;t get it
  9. Sigh. Because all the other kids have foam ones. Herd mentality. I can sway him on some things but I pick my battles... Use texalium as the fiber - he'll be all the envy !
  10. Can you spray?
  11. There is in fact a "Solvent" and it is really nasty stuff - Its called Methylene Chloride (not MEK - that's different) You may try and ping the tile manufacturer and ask for their MSDS for that tile product - I'll bet its not epoxy - thye could have bonded those tiles together for cheaper I'm sure - maybe acrylic or poly U I'm thinking -
  12. The issue with using a dark color paint over the glass and fairing compound, is that in direct sunlight can cause the surface of the hull to heat up beyond the glass transition temperature(Tg) of the epoxy (or at least beyond the onset Tg ) = what then happens is the crosslinked epoxy system then begins to relax at molecular level - this will cause the weave of the fiberglass to "print" through the marine finish and potentially into the fairing compound .. 407 low density filler might be a better option for higher traffic / load applications
  13. Some people use a piece of green scratchy pad on top of the resin and the bubbles from the degassing nucleate at the pad - if you pull your vac with too fast of a ramp rate, you can get a boil over ..that get's messy :lol: How ya been? LOL Good Man!
  14. Just kidding - You might consider checking if it is intrinsticaly safe ..When degassing resin , I like to float acetone on top of the reson ... about 1% of the total volume of resin break . This helps to lower the surface tension and allow bubbles to pop - the acetone flashes off, but if your pump is not intrisically safe it could go Kablowey!