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About zks7

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    San Francisco, CA

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  1. My Martin 243 has athwartship tracks for the 2 racks. The racks slide across the boat until they are secured in place. There were pictures on the net, and on YouTube of 243 boats with racks. However, they did not have tracks. How do you put them in place? How do you store them? How are they secured (when trailering and when you are sailing)? The YouTube video was about a boat named "Blitz". It did not appear to have tracks. Any ideas?
  2. Tom, Thanks for the update. Sorry about your marriage. So where will Banshee be domiciled? I saw pictures of her in some yard a few years ago. Good to have her getting close to sailing. Good luck with your adventure.
  3. Thanks US216, I had some considerable troubles. Eventually we calmed the starting issues. It was frustrating and expensive (time). After buying the boat (was told there was a motor issue) we took the motor to have it serviced. The options were to buy another outboard - or service this one. Had a hard time getting a solid answer about fitment. Quickly thought it was worth exploring the repair route (I was anxious to sail the boat). We took the motor off (2 people) and to an outboard shop. He did not seem to do much - but charged for his "time". He demonstrated that the motor ran. When installed on the boat, it was a different story. Many small issues kepit from running. I eventually rebuilt it (had a spare carb from the prior owner). The other carb had an idle circuit valve that was closed> That is a factory adjustment? One cannot adjust it. It is a factory pressed valve. Only reason I picked it up on it was comparing by it with the spare carb. Then there was in issue with the electric choke. It was missing. Then there was series of days playing (with 2 people) the throttle and transmission. There also was an air leak in the fuel line connector (needed tightening). Then one day the cotter pin connector on the transmission shaft failed. Learned a lot from all that. After that time (about 2 months worth of chasing down nits), the motor went stable and started with a minimum of issues. Procedurally the advice was to add Sta-Bil to the fuel. Once a year add Sea Foam (both from O'Reilly's). Each time after running the motor pull the fuel line and run the motor until it runs dry. pull ht motor up and leave the hatch open. We have a cover so it stay open without the elements affecting the motor enclosure. The idea is to try and keep the compartment lass moist. Maybe this will give you some procedural ideas about how to keep it running?
  4. I acknowledge that the object is to push the wedges down. To do that, do you tighten or loosen the nuts? They were tightened to the maximum this weekend. It did not seem to make a marked difference. Maybe the keel moves, and that is the end of it?
  5. Thanks for the advice. Is the aim to make the rods tight? That means tighten up the nuts so the fewest/no threads are showing? It would be a clockwise turn of the nuts until we run out of threads. There seemed to be little to no resistance to tightening when I did it yesterday.
  6. Cazza, To make the keel Delrins tighter do you tighten the nuts clockwise - until you cannot tighten them any further? The pictures above do not show many threads. Does that mean there is no further take up? Can servicing the keel box, delrins and, rods be completed in the water? Or is it a requirement to pull it out of the water, in. marina?
  7. Thanks, CT. The keel does not move. ONLY THE KEEL BOX MOVES. Next week the plan is to raise the keel to see what the struts are doing. Some have said that those bolts may have had enough electrolysis to be compromised. Still working on the water through the water through the kelp cutter.
  8. Where do you sail and in what kind of conditions? This is in SF Bay. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. We get some significant short steep chop. Maybe that makes a difference?
  9. I do not have a kelp cutter either. I currently have a real cork in mine! Looks like a wine cork. It leaks. How is yours sealed? I can make something out of G10/glass/etc. , but what did you use?
  10. Clean, why did you put the bob stay on the boat for the Code Zero?
  11. THX. Where did you find the 5 pack?
  12. Thanks for the replies. I NOW run the motor dry every time we take the boat out. Thanks to your combined advice. Each time we fill the tank we add Sta-Bil and every other time I add Sea Foam to the gas. I also took the carb apart and rebuilt it. just like you said, it was pretty easy. When I tried to source the carb, the factory carb from the US distributor was around $250 at my door. The rebuild full kit was $50. I now have 1 compete and 2 partial kits to work from. There was an in line water separator and filter on board prior to acquisition.
  13. Thanks. The former owner bought a 4 stroke Tohatsu in 2016. His solution was to buy a new carburetor every year since acquiring it . Several responders have mentioned the need to drain and clean the fuel tank. Most say that the Sta-Bil solution is their "best practice:". Another Tiger owner mentioned he runs the motor until dry, takes his fuel tank home with him, and refills it each time. For his solution, he has removed the grille on the side of the outboard well, and runs an external tank with a hose through the opening. After using it, he takes the fuel tank below. Are many of you doing that? Otherwise, how do you remove the tank without pulling the motor?