tweaker

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11 Whiner

About tweaker

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. tweaker

    DC's boat ont he front page

    That pic of Splendor drew me in. What a beautiful boat. The Ed is right about DC’s skills. I have sailed with him a few times on a good friends boat who happens to be a really goof friend of DC. DC is super focused when sailing an over all a great experience. One time before we really met a captain friend and I were waiting for a ride to pick us up from the hotel Coral in Ensenada. We were going down there to deliver a boat back to San Diego. We were standing on the curb in front of the Bali Hai restaurant on Shelter Island and DC pulls up and stops and asks us if we need a ride. He saw us with our gear and new we were boat guys. Yeah the Ed pats himself in the back but I think most great sailors have some ego as one driving force for success. The sailing weather has been outstanding this summer here in San Diego and I appreciate the sharing of that sailing moment. It stirs up special sailing moments I’ve had. Let’s keep any camaraderie we share alive it’s one of the main reasons for me for sailing.
  2. tweaker

    Dip Pole Gybing Whisker Pole

    I did the bow on my boat sometimes but was usually driving. For the set our pole was light and about 10’ retracted. Standing at the mast by the forward shroud with the mast end of the pole push aft past the starboard side of the mast we would grab the lazy sheet or the sheet as it was eased during the rounding and pulled the clew to us as the sail is blanketed by the main then using the ring snap it into the outboard end of the pole and then push the pole forward and slam it on our mast ring. You would insert onto your car. We only need one bow man, you could use two. One by the shrouds for the clew attachment and one at the mast end to insert and extend .Once on the pole and sail can either be jibed across to windward and then extended to stay on starboard or extended on port for an immediate jibe, like a jibe set. Of course the appropriate sheet would be trimmed on after the pole extension. You can figure out how the remove the pole before the windward rounding. We collapsed it removed it from the mast and then pulled the clew to us and released the ring. You may figure out a way to drop the pole off the ring after colasping and leave the pole on the mast. Maybe a bowman up front to remove pole and then lower the mast car with a mastman/ extender/ retracted at the mast. Maybe the bowman can pull the clew forward at the windward mark on the rounding and insert the ring if leaving the pole on the mast.
  3. tweaker

    Dip Pole Gybing Whisker Pole

    This is too late, but we raced Catalina 30’s in level cruising class racing with 150 jib and main when I first started racing. One of my friends took his 30 up to SF for the C-30 Nationals. We won the cruising class using a retractable whisker pole. The jibing method was simple like the Kmarts mentioned earlier. We put a solid ring on the clew instead of a wire loop. It makes it easy to attach the pole for DW and you never remove it from the clew down wind. The ring can twist so the sail doesn’t get distorted. No topping lift need if there is any wind as the sail will want to lift. Here is our jibing technique. Head ddw collapse the pole then we could push the pole and sail through the forteriangle as our pole just fit with the mast end at the height we liked for sail shape. The old lazy sheet was trimmed to help pull sail through. Jibe the main over staying low and extend the pole while keeping it off the forestay. Once fully extended trim on new sheet and head up. To keep the pole from lifting too much we Hooke the new lazy sheet over the bow cleat opposite the pole and then trimmed it to tension and keep the pole where we wanted. Bow had to remember to unhook the lazy sheet before jibing. Each sheet had a trimmer. In your case if the pole is too long to push through attached and you have a adjustable mast car fitting you can raise the mast end to push the pole trough and then lower to correct height. In big wind we would double jibe to blanket the jib to retract and extend by the main. This is a super easy way to jibe a retractable whisker pole and very fast. PHRF didn’t allow a full length whisker pole but our C-30 association did. J is 11.5 and our pole was 10-18’Which allowed full extension on a C -30 150 jib and allowed us to jibe with out removing the pole. The South Bay invitational in SAn Diego invited us (C-30s) to race with them one year and started us with similar rated spin boats. With our fast jibing and fully extended jibs we clean up beating some spin boats boat for boat and corrected out to win the class. We could sail lower and faster. Boats racing PHFH jib and main should lobby to change the rules to let whisker poles extend to 155 jib length and make jib and main sailing more fun and faster. to the poster who complained about the line adjustable whisker poles if you dent them they will stick and you can break them in big wind if you buy too small of diameter tubes.
  4. tweaker

    Musto?!

    I have some Musto MOX that seems to be ok.if it’s still Gore-Tex I would try it.
  5. tweaker

    Flying Tiger

    I always thought the FT 10 would be a great boat for the T pac . Carefully prepped. I did it on a Col 32 and did many costal runs(SF to SB) on a Hendo 30 . Flexible solar panels, lithium batteries, Maybe a 2.0 -4.0 Torqeedo and 2kw Honda for continuous running, and spare rudders. 4 crew max.Not sure where they might need to be reinforced.
  6. tweaker

    Chicago Mackinac Race drowning

    I find it bizarre that the PFD was destroyed, but never the less maybe it is a good thing. It doesn’t matter after the fact that the PFD didn’t activate. It could have failed for any number of reasons including operator error. I used to unscrew the CO2 cartridge sometimes on my old tablet style PFDs to prevent accidental activation from an old tablet before changing them. Or I removed the cartridge before flying. Will suing the manufacturer change anything for a possible defect? Or if it was operator error would that change anything? A defective PFD design would have showed up by now. What really matters is that each of us is responsible for our own safety while sailing. WE need to check that our PFD is is in top condition before any race with possible bad weather. WE need to make sure we stay on the boat, etc. Comments from those whose say don’t use inflatable PFD’s are in my mind just personel preference. If you want to wear a non inflatable go ahead. I have sailed over 50,000 miles of off shore races and deliveries and I prefer an inflatable. Just wear one, any kind, at night and in rough weather, or all the time which we did as crew on the Columbia 32 I did 10,000 miles on. Other racers whould sometimes laugh at us for having on our PFDs all the time. If you read my post in the other thread you would know I almost got washed off of an Andrews 70 while driving during a stormy Cabo race in daytime. Why wasn’t I clipped on? I don’t know? habit? most people don’t clip on in the day during bad weather. In any extended storm there IS going to side waves that hit the boat because the wind direction changes during the storm causing mixed waves. There’s a macho attitude among sailors about wearing PFDs and also about being clipped into the boat. An excellent example are some of the French solo sailors. Eric Taberly is one example. Comments about how good you can swim in foul weather gear are crazy. Yes when I was younger I would have been able to swim and get out of boots etc. Not now that I am older forget it. If you have on foul weather gear you should have on a PFD period. If the wind is up over 20 knots day or night it would be a good practice to be clipped in because side waves WILL happen. It’s not too hard to get used to being clipped in. Safety is also paramount for boat owners. A safe clipped in culture at night and in rough weather on the boat would be recommended. That’s my take away. Be safe out there.” If it’s going to happen it’s going to happen out there.”
  7. tweaker

    J/125s Are AWESOME

    Also Raisin Cane is hull # 13.
  8. tweaker

    HB's 'new' boat thread

    PITA! don't I know it, But the IC30A wouldn't be what it is with out him. Say Hi from the Fleet 13 fleet captain. Check your rudder stuffing box. There is a panel you can remove at the aft end of the quarter berth to access it or through the lazerette. They were half ass glassed in and they come loose. They are above water line at rest, but leak when the boat is under power as the stern squats. This is one of the mystery leaks some will find on their C-30. FWIW here is another mystery leak for those who go out in rough weather. When waves break over the bow, water will fill up the anchor locker. The drain hole is small or sometimes plugged. The water will migrate down the hull liner and drown all the cabin lights, etc. The solution is to caulk all of the seams in the anchor locker and /or duck tape the hatch shut if you know it will be rough.
  9. tweaker

    HB's 'new' boat thread

    Congrats on the "new" boat. Just found this thread. I am a Past Commodore of The IC30A. Still have my C-30. Do you talk much to Max?He pretty much knows everthing about the C-30. I didn't read the whole thread so I don't know if I am repeating stuff. And have you picked up a copy of the C-30 "Tech Talk manual" that Dick Dickens gathered over the years? All of the issues you have been dealing with are in that book. Check out your rudder stuffing box they work loose. The wood block in the front of your bilge under the mast compression post these rot. You found the hanging locker problem, window repairs, It's all in the book. Upgrades and improvements all in the book. The IC30A web site has links to everything you need for your boat. Like H&L wood has every piece of teak for your boat as they were the suppler for Catalina. There are links for atomic 4 specialists and parts, etc. Believe it or not you can buy new cushions from the factory. Call Catalina parts and tell them what year and they will quote you. Nice job on the bottom BTW. it looks like you found all of the info to do it right. The old ones and the tiller ones are good for racing. Do you have the new style rudder? The rudder slop issue is in the book. I personally use mylar shims to take out the slop. Or you can do a more permanent fix. Glad to see you are restoring her.